mr-b

Tx for the replies - I've tried out some felt pads stuck to the existing steel feet and they seem to be surviving a few short shuffles around. I may end up removing the feet if I need more movement as I'm intending to build false backs at some point, so good to hear they can be removed with some prising and not too much gouging!

Tx both for the examples - will try them out.

Tx but the HD link doesn't work for me - possibly as I'm in the UK. "Access Denied You don't have permission to access "http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Furniture-Sliders-for-Carpet-8-per-pack-83036N12/203566381" on this server." A google shows either flat hard or felt discs, for carpet or hard floors respectively, but no detailed description. So should the studs be removed somehow (unscrewed?) and the flat discs stuck on?

Hi I'm decorating my front room and after moving the Khorns, the feet have really scratched my wooden floorboards. On inspection the feet look like metal studs with rather a rough surface. I've tried some caster cups for the studs to rest in but the studs just seem to pop out of them whenever I move the speakers (the cups may be too deep), and Khorns are just a little bit too heavy to lift completely by myself! Any suggestions for something to cover or replace the feet that will enable the Khorns to glide over my boards?

Hi I've noticed that some tracks produce slight distortion on one of my Khorns (1987 with K55M squawkers, upgraded Crites CT-125 tweeters and B&K AK-3 crossovers). The distortion is a slight harsh glassy sound on some piano tracks and, bizarrely, Kraftwerk. I tried Alan Parker's excellent Soundcheck CD but couldn't pinpoint the frequency. I then swapped crossovers, amps, cables etc. and the issue follows the K55 squawker driver. Is it new driver time or is there some maintenance that might work - aka "Klipsch K55M Overhaul" at If it's new driver time then what are things that I could be looking at for possible upgrades (possibly horn too)? Oh and I'm in the UK so shipping parts may be rather expensive than normal!

Might be of interest to some. Also features a Nottingham Analogue Spacedeck/Koetsu and Mark Levinson ML-1 preamp. "This week at Christopher Tubbs' Heads Down, he has the articulate and talented DJ Cosmo in the hot seat; she talks about her friendship with David Mancuso and The Loft, she breaks down her audiophile Lucky Cloud soundsystem for the tech geeks and tells us which artists she's feeling right now. " http://vimeo.com/9168030

Hi The original MF A1 is a classic amp - but it does run very hot and so can have reliability problems. There are DIY sites on the internet to remedy this though. http://www.mhennessy1.f9.co.uk/mf_a1/index.htm The XA-1 isn't anything special from what I recall. Also AUD $500 = over £300 and you could get the A1 in the Uk for just over £100 so it sounds rather overpriced IMO. The NAD is classic though - you can't go far wrong with that and I'd guess it'd be easy to sell on.

Cool - back to plan A. ;-)

Some boring (ha!) practical details - I'd appreciate any advice from folks that have done this before. I looked at routing it out minimally from the front. The issues with that are that it would restrict the unit to a CT125 tweeter. Also on the CT125, it seems that the driver is attached to the horn by 3 philips screws on the front end and they'd be very hard to access and screw in from the front once the horn was fixed in from the front. So then I decided to look at the Z-bracket option and route out the hole fully. The positioning of the tweeter horn is restricted in a couple of ways: 1) At the rear, the edge of the driver (circular on CT125) can touch the cab's top panel. 2) The lower edge of the tweeter horn can touch the top of the squawker horn on the motorboard. So it looks like I have to correctly position the tweeter horn from the rear and then I guess route it out from the rear. Since the cab top panel isn't removable and it's rather a confined dark space, I'm not very confident about my ability to do this properly. Then I thought that I could position the horn from the back and mark where the screw holes were if they were different from the K77 ones. Then I could drill these holes right through the motorboard to the front. Then I could position the horn at the front and trace the hole cutting outline from there, and then route/drill/cut/bore out the hole from the front. Thoughts?

Tx Bob for that idea to minimise the routing - will def. give that a go.

Apparently the CT125 doesn't fit this new horn, so it looks like it's time for the sawdust to start flying!

Nice detail - tx! I'll pass this on to my woodworker friend.

Yep - it all depends on whether the cost of a pair of horns is relatively small compared to the cost of potentially getting the wood cutting wrong.

Cool - sounds like it could save me having to mod the cabs (mine are '98s in case that makes any difference) although I do have the Z-brackets already. Also any news on availability as a spare part? I'll need to check with Bob too if that horn will fit the CT125s.

Hi http://www.klipschcorner.com/special/LaScalaTimeline.aspx says: "... April, 2006 The horn portion of the K-77-F tweeter was re-tooled to include a recessed flange eliminating the need for the separate "Z" bracket and attachment rivets, the new designation is the K-77-D. This also allowed the updating of pre-Z bracket La Scalas (prior to May 2001) to flush tweeter status without motor board modification. " So does this mean that I can use the K-77-D horn instead of having to route out my LS motorboard? I'm using BEC tweeters in case that makes any difference. Also does anyone know if the K-77-D horns are available separately? I can't see any way of contacting Klipsch from their website - it just points you to the dealer locator (of which there are none in the UK of course ...).