mr-b

Tx for the replies - I've tried out some felt pads stuck to the existing steel feet and they seem to be surviving a few short shuffles around. I may end up removing the feet if I need more movement as I'm intending to build false backs at some point, so good to hear they can be removed with some prising and not too much gouging!

Tx both for the examples - will try them out.

Tx but the HD link doesn't work for me - possibly as I'm in the UK. "Access Denied You don't have permission to access "http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Furniture-Sliders-for-Carpet-8-per-pack-83036N12/203566381" on this server." A google shows either flat hard or felt discs, for carpet or hard floors respectively, but no detailed description. So should the studs be removed somehow (unscrewed?) and the flat discs stuck on?

Hi I'm decorating my front room and after moving the Khorns, the feet have really scratched my wooden floorboards. On inspection the feet look like metal studs with rather a rough surface. I've tried some caster cups for the studs to rest in but the studs just seem to pop out of them whenever I move the speakers (the cups may be too deep), and Khorns are just a little bit too heavy to lift completely by myself! Any suggestions for something to cover or replace the feet that will enable the Khorns to glide over my boards?

Hi I've noticed that some tracks produce slight distortion on one of my Khorns (1987 with K55M squawkers, upgraded Crites CT-125 tweeters and B&K AK-3 crossovers). The distortion is a slight harsh glassy sound on some piano tracks and, bizarrely, Kraftwerk. I tried Alan Parker's excellent Soundcheck CD but couldn't pinpoint the frequency. I then swapped crossovers, amps, cables etc. and the issue follows the K55 squawker driver. Is it new driver time or is there some maintenance that might work - aka "Klipsch K55M Overhaul" at If it's new driver time then what are things that I could be looking at for possible upgrades (possibly horn too)? Oh and I'm in the UK so shipping parts may be rather expensive than normal!

Might be of interest to some. Also features a Nottingham Analogue Spacedeck/Koetsu and Mark Levinson ML-1 preamp. "This week at Christopher Tubbs' Heads Down, he has the articulate and talented DJ Cosmo in the hot seat; she talks about her friendship with David Mancuso and The Loft, she breaks down her audiophile Lucky Cloud soundsystem for the tech geeks and tells us which artists she's feeling right now. " http://vimeo.com/9168030

Hi The original MF A1 is a classic amp - but it does run very hot and so can have reliability problems. There are DIY sites on the internet to remedy this though. http://www.mhennessy1.f9.co.uk/mf_a1/index.htm The XA-1 isn't anything special from what I recall. Also AUD $500 = over £300 and you could get the A1 in the Uk for just over £100 so it sounds rather overpriced IMO. The NAD is classic though - you can't go far wrong with that and I'd guess it'd be easy to sell on.

Cool - back to plan A. ;-)

Some boring (ha!) practical details - I'd appreciate any advice from folks that have done this before. I looked at routing it out minimally from the front. The issues with that are that it would restrict the unit to a CT125 tweeter. Also on the CT125, it seems that the driver is attached to the horn by 3 philips screws on the front end and they'd be very hard to access and screw in from the front once the horn was fixed in from the front. So then I decided to look at the Z-bracket option and route out the hole fully. The positioning of the tweeter horn is restricted in a couple of ways: 1) At the rear, the edge of the driver (circular on CT125) can touch the cab's top panel. 2) The lower edge of the tweeter horn can touch the top of the squawker horn on the motorboard. So it looks like I have to correctly position the tweeter horn from the rear and then I guess route it out from the rear. Since the cab top panel isn't removable and it's rather a confined dark space, I'm not very confident about my ability to do this properly. Then I thought that I could position the horn from the back and mark where the screw holes were if they were different from the K77 ones. Then I could drill these holes right through the motorboard to the front. Then I could position the horn at the front and trace the hole cutting outline from there, and then route/drill/cut/bore out the hole from the front. Thoughts?

Tx Bob for that idea to minimise the routing - will def. give that a go.

Apparently the CT125 doesn't fit this new horn, so it looks like it's time for the sawdust to start flying!

Nice detail - tx! I'll pass this on to my woodworker friend.

Yep - it all depends on whether the cost of a pair of horns is relatively small compared to the cost of potentially getting the wood cutting wrong.

Cool - sounds like it could save me having to mod the cabs (mine are '98s in case that makes any difference) although I do have the Z-brackets already. Also any news on availability as a spare part? I'll need to check with Bob too if that horn will fit the CT125s.

Hi http://www.klipschcorner.com/special/LaScalaTimeline.aspx says: "... April, 2006 The horn portion of the K-77-F tweeter was re-tooled to include a recessed flange eliminating the need for the separate "Z" bracket and attachment rivets, the new designation is the K-77-D. This also allowed the updating of pre-Z bracket La Scalas (prior to May 2001) to flush tweeter status without motor board modification. " So does this mean that I can use the K-77-D horn instead of having to route out my LS motorboard? I'm using BEC tweeters in case that makes any difference. Also does anyone know if the K-77-D horns are available separately? I can't see any way of contacting Klipsch from their website - it just points you to the dealer locator (of which there are none in the UK of course ...).

Interesting! So these are false corners but with their "wings clipped"? Got any pics?

Heh - well actually I'm glad it's not the other way round! I want to minimise the use of glue/caulk etc. if at all possible so I can return it to near-stock if necessary. I wouldn't know what to do about the holes though. Also my friend doesn't know the intricacies of khorn construction so I'd hope that some ppl here would know of any potential pitfalls. I really don't want to be guessing on this. Yes, the thread's pics at http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/permalink/843664/839729/ShowThread.aspx#839729 show the tailboard as being replaced. However we found it hard to gauge from the pics how the sides meet the new base blocks or how the new bases and braces are fixed to the existing base.

Hi I'm interested in doing the 60th Anniversary Khorn-style backs project for my '87 Khorns and wondered if anyone else had done this and if they had any tips on construction? The original thread http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/843664.aspx seems to be locked. :-( I've got the spec for the wood i.e. 4' x 8' of Baltic (Russian/Latvian etc.) Birch ply at 3/4" (although this seems very hard to source as a single sheet in the UK) - but I'm lost on things like screw size/number, fixing positions, construction process etc. I showed my carpenter friend the thread pics, but they don't seem to have enough detail for him. Has anyone else done this project?

Yes, strange indeed. I'd have thought that the US would be Klipsch heartland - you've certainly got the bigger rooms to accommodate them. ;-) re: upgrading the current Khorns, I've seen that analysis of the AK-4 (and which I guess is the basis of the AK-5 in the 60) has shown some 'weird' measurements compared to the previous ones, and AK-4s seem to divide opinion. Also that the newer K55-X squawker isn't as good as the K55-M that is in my current '88 Khorns. Of course this is just what I've surmised from scanning the forums etc., I'm not able to actually hear what they sound like for myself.

Useful info - thanks. Anyway, you can never have too much "over-kill" ;-) Sorry if I've posed too many issues to consider - the main problem is that I cannot listen to these new models beforehand since there are no UK Klipsch dealers! So I have to try and extrapolate my experiences of the older models using others' thoughts and experiences. I like the La Scalas, apart from the lack of low-end (which the LS II seems to partially address) and the cab size. The 60s look great and have the enclosed backs, but if I'm paying that much over normal Khorns it would be nice to get the best drivers and xovers as well (which seems to be the matter of some debate) and not have to spend even more on upgrades later on. What exactly are the "premium components"? Also I gather the 60s were not intended for the US market (which seems rather odd)? Has anyone compared them against old/current model Khorns? The Jubilees are just too big and industrial-looking to be acceptable at home (although I couldn't find any dimensions nor supplier details) although I'm sure they'd be very (too) compelling to hear!

Hi I was a victim of the recent floods in the UK and my La Scalas were unfortunately caught up in it (it appears that they don't float very well ...) - but thankfully my insurers will pay for new replacements i.e. La Scala IIs or else contribute their value towards something else e.g. some 60th Anniv Khorns! So my dilemma is what to purchase! I already had acquired some '88 Khorns (AK-2 xovers) but although I haven't had time to test them out properly, I think I may have some room/positioning issues with areas of boomy bass etc. Hence I thought that the 60th Anniv Khorns with their enclosed backs might be an ideal sol'n to this. I definitely prefer the extended bass response of the Khorns over my old LSs, although I realise that in itself, could be showing up room problems. My room is small by US standards - L 15' 4" x W 11' 7" x H 9' 9" but is part of an open plan layout with a large opening in the long wall (L 8'4" x H 7' 5") to a long hall. The speakers are positioned on the corners of the short wall (they just didn't sound right on the long wall). I've no idea how the opening would affect the acoustic mode response calculations etc. e.g. do I measure the room to include the hall portion too? Should I just give up on Khorns as being too large for my small room's acoustics? However the Khorns' cabinets are rather less intrusive in the room than the LS. After some research on the new Heritage speakers, I've seen some opinions that the current models may not have as good xovers as my '88 Khorn (AK-5 in 60th Anniv, not sure about LS II) and the same may apply to the drivers - and so I might be better off upgrading my '88 Khorns (or buy, brace and upgrade some older LSs). Of course the issue with this approach is that the insurers won't contribute towards DIY upgrades (plus I have zero woodworking skills for adding backs to the Khorns). ;-) So what should I buy for best quality in my room? Any advice gratefully received.

This one looks a litle strange - a new ebayer, and no pics although the text refers to them. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5873084863

The picture on this 50th Anniversay KHorn looks familiar too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5863137973

Hi I've just acquired a pair of Klipschorns ('88) with AK-2 crossovers to replace my previous LaScalas. They sound a lot fuller than the LaScalas at both ends of the spectrum, but they do seem to have a very pronounced boomy bass at certain freqs. This is most noticeable with any bass guitar sound, which tends to dominate and sounds bloated or flabby. I've tried varying source, amp and room position (pulling them well out of the corners) but it still remains. Any ideas what could be wrong or what to test next?

Does anyone know which upgrades have occurred over the years? I'm interested to know what the differences are between 5/10/20 etc. year old KHorns, and also whether ppl have experienced any degradation of components over the years. I did some searching and found some details of a major crossover & horn unit upgrade a couple of years ago but not much else.