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  1. My receiver does have large/small menu options for mains and does let me specify whether I have a subwoofer. You suggest that if I can tell my receiver I have no subwoofer, then I should choose that (presumably because then I'll get all frequencies sent to the sub and I can manually set the sub to pick the optimal crossover frequency?) (and I'll get the use of volume control via the receiver). Should it matter whether I choose large or small for my mains (currently I selected small mains and "yes" to subwoofer)? The other alternative presumably would be to tell my receiver that "yes" I have a sub. You suggest that my receiver has no crossover. But if that is the case, why would it have a menu selection to specify whether I have a sub or not (independent of whether pre-outs exist, which you explain above). Is it possible my receiver has a fixed crossover frequency? What purpose would the menu selection serve if not to have to receiver manage the crossover? If this is also is an option, is it likely I would get a better result relying on the receiver to manage the crossover? I appreciate all your assistance. Forgive me if I'm misinterpreted what you're trying to explain. I'm also tempted to email Klipsch to have them clarify how the 2800's crossover works.
  2. Thanks for trying to help. I've exhausted the respective menus and am certain the receiver doesn't allow crossover frequency to be specified. The owners manual for the later models (2802, 2803, 2805, 3802, etc.) all show the menu selection that selects crossover frequency, but my only option on the menu is Subwoofer? yes/no. The descriptions for the newer models on the Denon website also include references to specifying crossover frequency in their basic features, but the 2800's description doesn't. Thus, I'm 99.999% certain I can't pick a frequency. My 2800 does allow setting distances and sizes for speakers. Nonetheless, the receiver probably has a fixed crossover frequency. I'm wondering whether upgrading to a newer model with a selectible frequency will be noticeably better than my fixed frequency? I assume when you refer to "turn the dial all the way up on the sub" you are suggesting to allow the sub to play the highest frequencies sent to it by the receiver, instead of the sub's own manually set crossover cut-off. That's a good idea...I'll check to see that I have that dial set properly when I get home.
  3. I have the AVR-2800 receiver. http://usa.denon.com/1367.asp?archivedModelSearch=true&archivedCategory=AV&archivedModel=AVR-2800&imageField.x=13&imageField.y=13
  4. I have Klipsch RB-5s, RC-3, RS-3s, a RSW-10 and a Denon 2800 receiver and unfortunately, although you can specify whether you have a subwoofer, there do not appear to be any settings to specify the crossover frequency. I haven't found any documentation that clarifies whether the 2800 controls crossover or whether it simply provides a pre-out to the subwoofer without coordinating that output with the output sent to other speakers. (later models did allow frequency selection) For those of you that can select whether your receiver controls the crossover, is there a noticeable difference between just having your sub hooked up (presumably receiving all low frequency signals) and having your receiver control what frequency signals are sent to the sub? Or are my assumptions incorrect here? Would all non-selectable receivers simply choose a reasonable default crossover frequency (100?)? Do most of you notice a big difference when using 60 or 80 or 100 as your crossover frequency? Please let me know if I misunderstand how all this works, as I'm a novice here.
  5. Hmm, I'm not sure what you mean. I do have a "monitor out" output that I can send to the TV to program certain settings in the receiver. Are you saying that I have to activate that programming mode onscreen in order to select amongst different optical inputs? I keep thinking there has to be an input button on the receiver or remote that I would hit and it would give me the choice (shown on the receiver's display) between optical-1, optical-2 or optical-3...but there doesn't appear to be.
  6. I've looked through the manual, but can't find anything that describes how to manually force one optical in versus another.
  7. My Denon AVR 2800 has three digital optical input ports. I'd like to connect my DVD player to one and my cable box to another, but whenever I connect two inputs, I cannot find the correct button, knob or menu selection that would allow me to switch between the two inputs. If I disconnect either of the sources, the receiver will automatically source to the remaining input, but if I connect both, I am unable to switch between the inputs. It's driving me nuts, your help would be much appreciated!!
  8. ---------------- On 8/2/2005 8:42:03 PM efzauner wrote: Oh, and I have tried to solder RG6. No can do. Buy the F type crimp connectors and the corresponding RCAs. You can also get crimp on RCA wich make a bit neater job, but they are harder to find. There are also some very nice solid, gold plated compression fit RCAs, but you need a special tool for that. I too researched this issue recently. I had been told by several people that quad-shielded cable was difficult to work with--I can't remember if it was due to a different diameter or perhaps soldering problems. The most interesting comment was that "you should go with RG59 for audio because it is 100% copper instead of RG6 which is copper coated steel." Here's some links to discussions regarding RG6 vs RG59 (I hope Klipsch permits links like this). http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5720569#post5720569 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/index.php/t-438868.html Interestingly enough, it turned out that you can get different types of RG59 and RG6, some with 100% copper and others with copper coated steel. 100% copper is said to be a better conductor and is easier to solder. Similarly, many different types of shielding exists, some which prevents EMI interference better and others that prevent RFI interference better. Some people have used unshielded without problems, others haven't been so lucky. Here's a helpful link to some premium cable (way too expensive for me) and a discussion regarding the shielding issues. http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/single/ http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/single/subwoofer.htm And the best cable that most forums identified was Canare LV77S, which I could never find anyone selling for a reasonable price. Here's the technical info on that cable and its shielding. http://www.bluejeanscable.com/pages/technicaldocs/canarelv.pdf And if you have money coming out of your ears, these are really pretty: http://www.heartlandcables.com/ As for me, I went with dual-shielded 100% copper RG59 with gold plated Ultralink soldered connectors, which was somewhat a middle pricepoint.
  9. Thanks. Unfortunately, the manual is no help. It states: "Using a line level RCA subwoofer cable, connect the Subwoofer/LFE/Low Pass output of your electronics to the subwoofer via the RCA jack inputs on the subwoofer's rear panel." It refers to a "cable" (singular) and "jacks" (plural). One might interpret "cable" to include a two-wire cable (like speaker wire), however, every "subwoofer" cable that I've ever seen is a single wire cable. As you and others have suggested, using both jacks may avoid volume loss. However, it is unclear whether each jack has a different signal or whether there is sound degradation if you use a y-splitter on each end of your subwoofer cable (single cable). I have never heard of anyone using two subwoofer cables, but I suppose that is possible. I'm afraid it would be a waste of time and money or even worse, degrade the sound quality as compared to a single cable carrying signals from both jacks. I suspect it just doesn't matter which method you connect the jacks with (2 cables versus 2 y-splitters with a single cable)--the difference is probably negligible. Has anyone any additional insight?
  10. My Denon 2800 has two (left and right?) subwoofer pre-outs and my Klipsh RSW-10 sub has two (left and right?) input jacks. I've searched the forums and found that some people claim they notice a db loss if both inputs are not both connected. That said, those people usually state that they use a single cable (presumably because their receiver/amp only has a single pre-out) and use a y-splitter at the sub. My question is why are there two (left and right?) channel outs for subs? Are there really two channels with different signals? Why would you need that, unless perhaps you are running two subs....then again...I really doubt there are left and right channels for subs...is it simply two jacks with the same signal? I really hate to run two separate cables if there is no reason for it. Should I use a Y-splitter combining both signals to a single cable and then a Y-splitter again at the sub?
  11. ---------------- On 7/12/2005 8:03:50 PM aaron1274 wrote: Sub volume level is set to 10, I usually put the volume on the receiver at almost full to get most of the bass. ---------------- I see your problem: "The numbers all go to eleven. Look, right across the board. Eleven, eleven, eleven." "Oh, I see, and mostly, the amps go up to ten?" "Exactly." "Does that mean it's louder? Is it any louder?" "Well, it's one louder, isn't it?" "One louder." "Why don't you just make ten louder, and make ten be the top number, and make that a little louder?" "These go to eleven." http://www.moviequotequiz.com/reviews/spinaltap.html
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