xradman

No, as long as you leave in the copper bus bars between the upper and lower jacks. Those copper bus bars in effect make those connectors a single set regardless of what set you use. Use the ones that are easier to access. I would use a set of banana plugs from someplace like Blue Jean cable, rather than just bare ends of wire. It's a cleaner installation, espcially behind the equipment rack on the receiver. ...and remember! CRANK IT UP! I always worry about those all metal contacts shorting out if one should accidentally fall off of the receiver.

Yeah, they are angled slightly upwards so that when you are in the seated position, the speakers are directed to your ear height. From the center seat, all my seven speakers (RB-25 along sides and back) are directly aimed towards me.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I am also considering this sort of setup. I currently have three RC-25 for left, right, and center as in the attached picture. The reason for this was to maximize screen size (12 foot wide). Going with traditional L and R speakers would have meant losing more than 2 feet in width and this was unacceptable (I lost the big picture feel by zooming down to this size). I would like to upgrade the RC-25 with RC-64 now. One concern that I have with RC-64 is their considerable width. Since the room is only 12 feet wide at the screen, the 3 RC-64s will take up nearly the entire width of the room. What do folks think about having this wall of speakers up front. Will lobing be so severe that I lose any benefit of having RC-64 over RC-62?

I used a pair of old speaker mounts that I had from my old home theater. I think they are same as these sold at Standsandmounts. http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3178 For the rear speakers, I just drilled couple of screws into the rear wall studs and hung the speakers using the existing screw hole in the back of the speakers. Good luck,

As promised, here are the screen shots. After much research into various screen options, I finally decided on an old formula by Tom Bombadil called Light Bombadil Gray. For Quart of Light Bombadil Gray Base of Behr UPW Flat Enemal 0 3 0 Lamp Black 0 1 0 Raw Umber The reason for this was several fold, but mainly came down to screen size (12ft wide) and poor contrast ratio and black level on my D-ILA projector (Dukane 9000D same as JVC G10). I painted the front wall of my HT room (12ft wide by 9ft high) after filling in the cracks and screw holes and lightly sanding it down. The wall isn't glass smooth but given that the picture is 12 ft wide, I can't perceive any imperfection from my seating area ~16ft back. Because of the size of the screen, I have to slightly adjust the zoom for 4:3, 16:9 and 2.35:1 images to maximize my screen size. The picture is super sharp and color is just about perfect. I am very happy with how everything turned out. The only thing left is to better integrate my front speakers to the front wall and to put up some theater framing or masking. Here are the pictures: The first picture is my painted front wall with 3 front speakers (Klipsch RC-25). The speakers are on the floor to maximize screen space as my projector does not have any lens shift, and top of the screen remains fixed from my ceiling mounted projector. Now the screen pics. The color on the picture is slightly off due to auto white balance on my digital camera (Nikon Coolpix 8800). I will have to manually white balance prior to taking the picture next time. Here is a 2.35:1 HD screenshot from HD DVD. The image size at 2.35:1 is stretched fully out to 12 ft wide (156 inch diagonal). __________

Here is my setup. Dukane 9000D D-ILA Projector 1360 x 1024 resolution 12 ft by 9ft painted wall screen (180inch diagonal Lt Grey) with 3 RC-25 for Left, Center, and Right Channel. Once you see pictures on screen this big, anything else just doesn't seem right... 2 sets of RB-25s for Side LR and Rear LR RW-12 Sub and 2 Leslie Dame DVD shelfs (modified to hold over 800 DVDs each) Equipment rack holds (from left to right) Cyberhome all region DVD player, Pioneed LD Karaoke player, Custom made HTPC, Dish 942 receiver, Sony VCR, and Yamaha RX-V2500 130W/ch 7.1 receiver Finally my Coaster home theater seats with 8 Aura bass shakers (~15ft from the screen) The sight and sound from this setup is second to none. I will try to post some screen pictures soon.

If you have already hooked up a digital output, then you don't need anything else. The analog multi input is for those devices that don't have a digital out. For digital inputs, if you are using coaxial, then you don't need any fancy cables. They just pass bits of 0 and 1s and any reasonable audio or video cable should work.

---------------- btw, from Klipsch literature, the RC-25 center channel's frequency responce is listed as 69Hz-20kHz ±3dB with a sensitivity of 95dB @ 2.83 volts/1 meter where-as the RB-25's frequency responce is listed as 49Hz-20kHz ±3dB with a sensitivity of 94dB @ 2.83 volts/1 meter the sensitivity of each is only 1 dB apart . . . ---------------- Sensitivity improvement was compared to the RSX series. I also meant RB-15 sideways rather than RB-25. RB-25 may be too big sideways at 7.5 inches. RC-25 is 6.5 inches high, so hopefully that would give me couple of inches to play with for the mount and tilt.

---------------- On 8/5/2005 11:00:05 AM Petrol wrote: hmmm, what is on the wall that limits the selection of your speakers and requires that they might need to hang from the ceiling so? got any PICs? btw, from Klipsch literature, the RC-25 center channel's frequency responce is listed as 69Hz-20kHz ±3dB with a sensitivity of 95dB @ 2.83 volts/1 meter where-as the RB-25's frequency responce is listed as 49Hz-20kHz ±3dB with a sensitivity of 94dB @ 2.83 volts/1 meter the sensitivity of each is only 1 dB apart . . . ---------------- My wall is 12 feet wide by 9 feet high. My limitation is that I need to maximize by screen space, and my ceiling mounted JVC DLA G10 projector does not have vertical lens shift adjustment. Because I watch fair amount of both 4x3 and 16x9 material, I need to set the top of the screen as high as possible, so that the 16x9 stuff remain on the wall when expanded to 11 feet wide picture. This gives me about 7.5-8 inches of space along the top of the wall and around 6 inches along the side of the wall for speaker placement. I will post pictures once I get the speakers mounted and room cleaned up a bit. As far as the speaker mounts for the front speakers, I am almost tempted to get the TV wall mounts for small 9inch TVs. These have a small 10x10 inch platform which should be big enough for 20x9 inch base for the RC-25 speakers. They have a built-in 10degree tilt adjustment and with the safety strap, I may not need to drill into the speaker cabinets. What do you think?

Why? Because, RB35s are too big for my front wall. I only have about 7-8 inches of along the top of the wall for the speakers. I could have gone with mounting a small speaker such as RSX-4 sideways or RB-25 sideways, but RC-25 will give me much more bass and efficiency, not too mention that the speaker and grill are oriented in the right direction.

I have decided on and purchased my HT system. Thanks to someone's advice, I decided to get 3 RC-25 for the front left, center, and right and 4 RB-25 for side and rear surrounds along with 1 RW-12 for subwoofer duty. I'm much happier with this choice over RSX or RCX speakers as they are more traditional in shape and sound is much more closer to the larger Klipsch reference line. Now my dilemma is how to mount the RC-25 to the ceiling or the front wall. I only have about 7-8 inches of space near the top of the ceiling and the speakers will need to tilt down a little bit. Any recommendation for a good mount. Ones I've seen at most online shops are either not strong enough (to support RC-25's 19lb weight) or won't tilt down. Also most mounts seem to be made for small satellite and not for the wide center channel speaker. I would also rather not drill into the cabinet unless as a last resort. Thanks in advance, Richard

I was inclined to go with option 2 or option 3. As far as the subwoofer argument goes, I think the idea was to use the smaller subwoofer as sort of woofer/subwoofer and the larger subwoofer as subsubwoofer with a lower crossover point than the first one. This way you have a 2 way subwoofer instead on 1. The same person stated in this article that most people do not drive their 1 subwoofer to distortion, so there would be absolutely no advantage to have 2 subwoofer instead on 1 (provided that you adjust the level so that they are equally loud).

It looks as though Cinema system is the only thing in the Klipsch line that will fit my space requirments. Now, I have some options as to different components for 7.1 system. I could go with Option 1 6 RSX-4 for fronts and surrounds, 1 RCX-4 for center, and 1 RW-12 for sub Option 2 3 RCX-4 for front and center, 4 RSX-4 for surrounds, and 1 RW-12 for sub Option 3 3 RCX-4 for front and center, 4 RSX-5 for surrounds, and 1 RW-12 for sub I only have about 8 inches of space on the ceiling and zero room on the floor for the speaker. If I get RSX-4 for the front, that will be mounted on their sides on the ceiling tilted slightly down. I don't have the room to conventionally mount either RSX-4 or RSX-5 in the front. That is why RCX-4 for front in Option 2 and 3. In the back, I have plenty of room. If I get bigger speaker for the surrounds than the fronts, will I have funny problems with imaging (Option 3 has 5.25 inch woofers in the back and 2 4 inch woofers for the fronts)? Also, if I go with dual subs, I have heard that its better to go with 2 different subs rather than 2 identical subs, since all that does is reduce potential distortion slightly rather than extending the frequency range (ie. RW-10 and RW-12 rather than 2 RW-12) Any opinions on this? Thanks, Richard

My home theater has just enough space for Cinema 8 system (due to the size of the screen on the wall). I like the sound, but don't much care for the shape of the speaker. I would prefer to have RF35, RC35 type of speaker, but these are too big for the location. Any suggestions for a good alternative? Thanks in advance, Richard