Gregavi
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Posts posted by Gregavi
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2 hours ago, Klipsch104db said:
Don't know what ferrofluid is. I didn't use it. 300 watts? That's why you blew a tweeter. I use to power my La Scalas with 400 watt mono block Hafler amps. Blew many tweeters. I went 25 watt tube amps. And I changed my tweeters to Crites ct125. If you're going to use that much power, you may want to go with the Crites ct120. They are more durable than the k77.
I've been driving them with the same amp for almost 20 years and it's the first time I've had a problem with the tweeters or any other speaker I've driven with this amp.
I'm considering going with the CT120s.
"Ferrofluid is a cooling / damping compound used in the magnetic gap of many tweeters to increase power handling and smooth out the frequency response; it has a tendency to thicken with age, gradually reducing tweeter output to zero."
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Was there in improvement in SQ with the titanium in your opinion?
Also, Simply Speakers has an option to add Ferrofluid. I know it's supposed to keep the coil cool but is it necessary? I drive my La Scalas with 300 Watts of super clean power so I'm wondering if it's necessary. Do they come from the factory with FF? I was under the impression that very few have FF.
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3 hours ago, Klipsch104db said:
Replace the diaphragm. Simply Speakers sells them. It's not a complicated do it yourself project.
Is it advisable to replace the diaphragm with titanium type if available? The ones I've seen don't list the K77 as one of the tweeters it fits so I'm guessing the replacement for the K77 isn't available in titanium.
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On 2/13/2024 at 10:08 AM, avguytx said:
So what was the actual reading on both tweeters using a DMM?
6 Ohm.
As I stated, I swapped x overs and the same tweeter does not work, which points to the tweeter and not the x over. Sorry for the confusion but my tests produced inconsistent results. Very frustrating.
I have determined that the problem is with the tweeter. Now my question is, should I replace the diaphragm, the entire tweeter or replace them both with an upgraded tweeter like the Crites CT 120 or the Smahl V2?
Anybody compared these tweeters and your thoughts?
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On 2/10/2024 at 8:50 AM, OO1 said:
grab the good tweeter and test it on 2 crossovers with music playing at low level , does it work ? yes
both networks are A1
- if the good tweeter does not work on 1 of the 2 networks , you have a bad network
you can do the same test with the 2nd tweeter to confirm.
- However....... if 1 tweeter fails on both networks , you got a bad tweeter diaphragm
https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k77f-127126-diaphragm/
I swapped x overs and the problem tweeter stayed with the same speaker which indicates a bad tweeter. The reason why I was assuming it was a bad x over is because the non working tweeter passed the Ohm and battery tests.
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I swapped x overs & the speaker with the tweeter problem didn't swap with it. Looks like a tweeter issue. Was thinking it wasn't the tweeter bc I got results consistent with a good tweeter when I connected a battery to it got popping sound and it measured at 6 ohms. In your opinion, can the tweeter be blown even if it passed those 2 tests? I'm assuming yes.
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On 2/8/2024 at 5:35 PM, Deang said:
I get it, everyone wants to be helpful. It’s admirable.
I hadn’t noticed the value on the electrolytic. Yeah, it look like he’s running AK-3’s in his AL-3 La Scalas. Very little difference of course - just that low pass shunt cap. Now, if you want details - You will have to check with my technical lead (who actually understands math). @mboxler
I chatted with Michael Crites last night and he wants me to send it to him for repair. I am doing a full swap tonight as a last test before I ship it to him. I'm still not totally convinced that it is the x over that's the problem.
He said, concerning the difference between the AK 3 vs the AL 3 "the AL-3 has a different tweeter circuit and slightly different woofer circuit. its not earth shattering changes, but likely does sound slightly different"
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3 hours ago, Deang said:
It’s an AL-3.
Using your fully functioning La Scala, loosen the two screws for the tweeter and remove the tweeter connections. Now connect your non working tweeter to those connection points on the barrier strip. Play some music. If you hear the tweeter the other network has an issue.
I did this. Tweeter is working.
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1 hour ago, babadono said:
An Ak3 in a LaScala? Does it sound OK? Looks like the Fc of the lowpass filter is about 251 Hz. Is this ok @Deang?
Sounds great, when the tweeter was working.
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2 hours ago, babadono said:
This AK3?
Yes
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I ran wires +/- from the known working xover tweeter connection to the non working tweeter and have verified that it is not the tweeter that has failed (the tweeter worked). Checked all the connections in the xover and they all seem to be tight.
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I took the X Over out, cleaned it up a bit, tightened all the connections and re-installed it. (I wish all speakers were as easy access). Still the tweeter is not working.
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8 hours ago, Peter P. said:
Since you have a voltmeter, set it to AC Volts and put the leads on the tweeter screws at the crossover board.
Play some music and you should see the numbers bounce around. Increase the volume and the bouncing
remains but the numbers are higher. It might help to have a couple clip leads to do this.
If you see no numbers, then a component in the crossover has failed or there is a bad connection somewhere in there.
I did this and it appears that the Xover is the culprit. On the speaker that is OK, the numbers jump around as you suggested. On the dead tweeter speaker, the number remained at Zero. BTW, on my volt meter I tried both V (volts) and mA (milliamps). The numbers went between 3 and 4 on V and of course higher numbers on mA. I checked most of the connections on the Xover board but I need to turn my speaker around to better access the Xover board. I will report back.
Many thanks guys.
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14 hours ago, babadono said:
So did you then hook it back up and it is still not working? I'm thinking maybe you had an oxidized connection at the crossover and now if you re connect it will work. Those tweeters are fragile beasts. Many of us have blown 1 or 2.
I did and still not working.
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I have a pair of La Scalas from the mid 80s with a serial #8425978 if that matters. I replaced the crossovers a few years ago with a B&K Sound Xover and am very happy with the improved sound. Today I was fine tuning speaker levels after running Audyssey and noticed that one of the La Scalas sounded muffled. Upon more testing I discovered that the tweeter on the one that sounded muffled was not working. I disconnected it from the crossover and tested the ohms, which was reading at around 6. I did the battery test with a AA battery that puts out 1.2V and the tweeter produced the clicking sound I was taught to look for. Checked for any loose connections on the crossover board but didn't find any.
Any advice on what my next step should be is appreciated.
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That's what I figured considering it's two 8" drivers. I got this one from a guy who had a plan several years ago that never came to fruition, so it has never had an amp connected to it. New old stock I guess.
Do you know the difference between the 5802 II and this one? The only thing I could find is the grills on the II have magnet fastening system.
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Yeah, someone gave it to me. I already have 2 active subwoofers in my home theater but I'd like to see what this passive In-Wall can do.
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2 minutes ago, billybob said:
The 500 using one inwall Klipsch sub 5802 delivers 300 watts.
Probably work with another but, would try before you buy.
Is there a reason?
Thanks and welcome back!
Yeah there's a reason. I don't want to spend $1k on an amp if I can use something else that would be adequate. I can easily find a stereo amp that can be bridged mono for a lot less.
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I have a Klipsch RW 5802 IW Subwoofer which is passive. In some of the documentation I have read, it states that the Klipsch RSA-500 dedicated subwoofer Amplifier must be used to drive it. Is this true or will pretty much any power amp work with this sub? Thanks in advance.
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8 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
Why do you have your Heresy sitting on its side?
Because upright blocks the screen.
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Thanks 001. I have only just ordered the ones from Digikey. I can send them back and get the ones from JEM. I really didn't know which caps to buy. Still don't. Which ones from JEM for the Heresy and do they sell them for a single speaker or do I have to buy a pair?
What is wrong with the BK crossover? They sound great, at least compared to the originals which were over 30 years old when I replaced them. I think the folks over at Crites would disagree. I can't say because I have not A/B them with BK vs new originals, only BK vs old originals. Obviously not a fair comparison.
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The photo was taken several years ago. I have since added several other sets of speakers.
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I have 1 Heresy Circa 1984 that I use as a center channel to go with my 2 La Scalas. I ordered replacement caps from Digikey for the Heresy. 3 of them cost me about $16 including shipping. I replaced the entire crossovers several years ago for the La Scalas with B&K Sound crossovers. HUGE difference. I will be replacing the crappy speaker terminal also.
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La Scala Tweeter not working.
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
You obviously didn't read my original post where I state "I replaced the crossovers a few years ago with a B&K Sound (AK 3) Xovers".
You'd be right if they were the originals. That would make them the likely cause. I've recapped x overs that made a huge difference, especially in the high end.
I've done more testing including swapping x overs and using a tone generator. I'm pretty sure it's a non working tweeter. I misdiagnosed at least once on this matter but I think I've got it nailed down to the problem being the tweeter and not the x over.