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Posts posted by boa12

  1. dk & others, i think it says a lot that tom of svs is also a klipsch owner, klf at that, & i think he designed subs w/ klipsch in mind. iow, they're loud. sounds like good quality bass to boot.

    & dk no, you can't put anything on top unless its another sv sub, inverted in a way like Horned's tower of power. 3.gif believe the port is on top. not much surface area there anyway. 2.gif

  2. ray makes a great point in having a good dealer relationship. the only true way to know is to demo things at your place w/ your stuff & w/ your ears. this can't be emphasized enough.

    iow, posting for replies to get a general idea of what to look at is fine. sorta like a survey as a general starting point. but choosing & buying your gear via the net can have a much greater cost than any purchase savings compared to working locally w/ a good & fair dealer. 2.gif

  3. like ray says. that's always been my logic - get the best speakers you can possibly afford (assuming you have some money anyway), then work your way from there.

    f.e., i stretched my budget a bit when i got the cornwalls right out of college in '84 & i've been matching them up w/ various other components since. helps that klipsch has always made great speaks for a great price. & they have good flexibility in their lines so now when i upgrade to khorns the cornwalls & klf (maybe) should work well along w/ them. 16.gif

  4. thanks men. glad if i can help. just try to be frank w/ my opinions yet i've learned to tread more lightly. 2.gif hard to help sometimes w/o stepping on toes. 2.gif

    but i'm an activist on this crossover adjustability issue w/ our big speaks. some in the industry must wake-up. that adjustability in the dsp crossover is really a low cost feature too. that was the main feature that 1st drew me to b&k. then i heard them w/ klipsch. 2.gif

  5. yeah that's why I put "reference level" in quotes. 9.gif dolby reference level is what, 120db+? 6.gif

    i don't pay any attention to ref level. i have my own. i use my pre/pro tones & they're not adjustable w/ its main volume control. puts out a constant level on the tones.

    i follow their advice & level all speaks to 85db w/ it (well maybe a lil higher on meter peaks from the sub). that's the main thing w/ calibration - levels of the various speaks are balanced. & when i put on ac/dc - stiff upper lip dvd & crank it to 0db, the meter is bouncing around 115 db. 3.gif

    i just wouldn't calibrate (balance) the speaks so that the sub level (or lfe level for that matter) is negative - then the sub may not wake up as readily at lower volumes. don't have any of my speaks or sub levels negative for that matter, as i start w/ the sub & calibrate all the speaks off the sub level.

  6. ken, yeah if you're saying some will buy it just because it has a high price, can't say it isn't so.

    but knowing velo, they must have some justification for the high price. that's what i was wondering about. & then is it really justified or just bs? 7.gif

    another thing about velo is they have real high msrp, but like i've found you can work about any dealer for them down to more like 2/3 of that msrp price. but still, what are they putting up for a $10k sub vs a velo hgs-18 that can now be had new from an authorized dealer for $2k?

    may have to start doing some looking of my own for this 1812. just out of curiousity of course. 9.gif

  7. larks, are these being used in a 5.1 or 2 speaker & sub set-up?

    regardless its virtually impossible to say where to set a crossover best to your ears w/ your dif equipment, room, tastes, ears, etc. this is where some experimentation & tweaking by you comes in handy. iow, best to let your own ears be the guide.

  8. kp, w/ my rp-5 i just hooked up the top speaker posts of the rp to the receiver's fronts posts w/ speaker wire; &, attached the "lfe in" of the rp to the receiver "sub out" using an rca plugged interconnect/cable. you can use a Y splitter/adapter from one sub out to both rp lfe in, or daisy-chain the connected rp "lfe out" to the other rp "lfe in"

    leave the gold straps on the rp top & bottom speaker posts or replace w/ wire.

    you can try different settings in the yammy such as fronts: large or small, & sub setting either to both or sw. but it shouldn't make much audible dif. i used fronts:large & the equivalent of both setting.

    this way you are in effect biwiring. really more like biamping since you have an amp in each rp sub section.

  9. gil, THX the self-proclaimed king of 5.1 & timbre matching has its roots from the standard of using 5 identicle speakers (smaller satellite speaks) & a sub. & for the sub to handle low bass up to 80hz as well as all LFE (speced to around 120hz). many digital receivers these days are still speced according to this scheme.

    as you can see things have progressed from there pretty much leaving thx behind.

    at least here. some day i hope to have khorn fronts, a belle or lascala center, & use my existing cornwalls & klf-30 for surrounds & rear surrounds respectively. & i still won't be cutting

    those at a high 80hz. 2.gif the only wild card i think here for a great timbre match would be the klf-30 because of the tactrix horn.

  10. erik, i'd have the sub on an unswitched plug. that's what the auto standby feature is for. its on an extremely low power level on standby so its using practically no power if any at all.

    as for the sub waking up. what is your sub level set to in the receiver? when i calibrate my speaker levels w/ a sound meter i make sure to do the sub level 1st & set it flat (0db) in the prepro. then i adjust the subs own output knob to set it at the right level (87 db in my case).

    iow, i make sure the sub level's not set lower than 0db so it doesn't have as much trouble waking up at low volume. also have my lfe level set at 0 (not like -10db) in the prepro most all the time.

    if your receiver sub level &/or lfe level are turned down to like -5db or something then that might cause the sub to not wake-up as readily at lower volumes, since its not getting enough of an input signal.

  11. yeah i thought at the time the $2250 i paid for the hgs-18 was a bit overboard (based on my past expenditure amounts for gear). 6.gif

    i'd like to know what it has features & performance-wise that make up for the $12k msrp price dif. is it encased in solid 24k gold or something? 9.gif

  12. dk, that's just the route i'd take (& finally did take after 2 receivers).

    but seperates are generally more expensive (especially new anyway). though you might want to check out those at www.outlawaudio.com for great values & affordibility from a direct seller (like is svs & hsu for subs).

    but if you decide to go the denon 3803 route for your ears, space, budget, etc. needs, nothing wrong there either. looks like denon corrected the bass mgmt on the 3802 in favor of bigger speaks. the 3802 had ajustability but only at 80hz & higher - good for smaller speaks not bigger.

  13. md, my "ideal" would be khorn fronts but would need a room w/ 2 front corners. otherwise, lascala or belles all the way around. substitute heresy (or used cornwalls) where space &/or budget requires.

    however, since i already have cornwalls & klf-30, w/ the more ideal room i'd use khorn fronts, lascala center, & use the existing corns for surrounds & klf-30 for rear surround. then work from there to correct any intolerable mismatch.

    all rooms which affect timbre to some degree are different. & any timbre mismatch should not be as obvious w/ surrounds a distance away as w/ a mismatch w/ the fronts & center.

    thanks for allowing me to revisit my dream sys. should have it pretty well planned by the time if ever i can do it. 1.gif

  14. gm, here's a prior chat on it. also a few others if you search for bucking magnets in this section.

    you can get the mags by calling parts at 1-800-KLIPSCH. also trey & the gang can help in their tech support.

    i'd start w/ the bigger woof magnets 1st (4 of 'em) & see if that does it. then the mid horns. as you can see the tweeters can be some work to get back in the cabinets & the smaller tweeter mags shouldn't be causing much if any interference.

    & use a fast drying epoxy glue like i got "instant epoxy" at home depot. the magnets go on so they repel against the speaker magnet. so you have to hold/weigh them down for a bit & you want some fast drying/setting stuff.

    cut & paste this link:


  15. also there's those backwards like at the start of elo (electric light orchestra) "fire on high". if you spin it backwords on a turntable you'll hear it.

    believe a a beatles tune or two also do it in spots. may not be good for the stylist on the turntable though.

  16. mo was real odd here - when you consider carnahan running for senate against ash was also the govenor at the time. but it definitely helped his wife's (now senator jean carnahan) cause that the luetenant gov who took carnahan's place was also a democrat. he made it well known who he would appoint if the deceased was elected.

    far from the case here where MN allows a replacement on the ballot up to 4 days before the election. & of course jesse is the gov.

    anyway, i'm outta here. i've vowed to not respond to political threads. prod i think you'd be wise to not start anymore here. 9.gif

  17. dk, if i were you at your point, i'd call tom at svsubwoofers.com & find what you can do. maybe their smallest nonpowered cylinder w/ a lil 105-200W plate amp.

    btw, i thought you weren't getting a sub yet. 6.gif you know after that your going to need a new receiver or seperates (w/ that flexible bass mgmt & power). 9.gif

    in fact, i'd get a nice pre/pro w/ a seperate 6 or 7 channel power amp (used would cost less) & you could use that to also power a nonpowered sub or two (like svs cs series).

    just some thoughts. 2.gif

  18. sp, good idea, lazy me. 11.gif i just took the grill off my front C7 too & it also looks to me like, in its speaker horizontal position, the horn is definitely set to radiate more vertically than horizontally.

    so if that's true, then you'd just want to turn them vertical w/o turning the horns. that's all i think horned did when using them for front effects. of course you could always try both ways at your place & find which way sounds best for you.

    in fact, i believe the only horn HE rotated was on his converted klf-30 center (along w/ a whole new motorboard). & he did that so the horn would radiate more verticle for this speak in the horizontal position - i.e., because placing a klf-30 verticle over a tv wouldn't be too practicle. 2.gif

  19. dk, as said you really need to demo either at your place w/ all dif material to hear which you like best. most good klipsch dealers should allow you to take a pair of each home to try.

    & when you get any of these reference speaks don't be suprised if you hear more noise from your receiver & dif components. the klipsch are that much more revealing.

    & since you're getting the rf-3, i'd keep that adjustable crossover in the processor that lets you drop it down to 40-60hz in mind when you get a good sub & new receiver or pre/pro down the road.

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