Groomlakearea51

Thanks to all who looked at them; my wife just walked in and said that she likes them, so I will comply with "she who must be obeyed", locate a k-24, and keep them for now. Much appreciation again for everyone who looked at them.

I think I'll also return to the table saw and cut some false corners as well. The deflectors will be a 15 minute job (attached by velcro), and the false corners would be from 1/4" plywood, also attached with velcro (I've got big rolls of the stuff from other non-Klipsch related projects). I'll fool with both and see what happens; n the interim, break out the books and start studying sound waves....

What I'm trying to do is figure out a simple way to at least partially compensate for crappy/ odd corners, and/or alter the bass "point of origin" as it exits the KC's to compensate for crappy or odd room acoustics. This crazy idea goes back to the idea of deflecting to one side or the other. Midway in the discussions, the issue of comb filtering came up and I got sidetracked..... The bass horns will still be symetrical (both guides would be the same adjustment), but the volume at the exit port would be reduced. While refinishing the one pair of KC-BR's, I'm considering modifying that pair. Got three pairs and the "mod" pair will eventually head back to the stereo room to experiment with; other two pairs are in place per the diagram. LS's are stripped and in line for refinishing. Won't go there until January. What I'm doing is looking at the different possibilities. Bear with me; I'm not the brightest candle in the chandelier (or is that the crayon in the box...), but I'm willing to learn. I've started "learnin myself" as fast as possible on acoustic wave stuff, but to this point, It's been trial and error with simply physically adjusting the placement of speakers to achieve a good solid sound from multiple speakers of the same design, using independent amps, but with the same input source. What's my goal: to better understand the basics of sound waves, how they work, and how to get as much of them them to some point (bigger the better) in a room without too much interference.

Interesting! Maybe a good question would be: If one wanted to deflect or bias the bass to one side or another, and having the option of removing the "tailboard", how would one do that? On those lines, I'm wondering if the "vane" could simply be a thin, say 1/4", vertical strip, approximately 4" wide and the length of the two opening areas. It would be flush to the tailboard, rotate on that axis, extend to the rear opening, and be able to "swing", and physically block or partially block one side or another? Since that final "twist" is at the exit ports, it would seem that it would be more a matter of "defeating" either the right or left twist? Let's say that, by putting that vane in there, and biasing it to one side, the displacement volume of the horn at the exit ports would, in substance not have the dramatic increase in displacement volume as it does when it "hits the walls" with both sides (volumes) available. Then would it possibly stand to reason that the side to which the volume is displaced would be quite "strong" at a closer distances? This may also have an impact on the "comb effect" because the horn, while the same length, now does not have the final exit volume, and probably not the same wave propagation characteristics(?). Any ideas, or should I just get some mics', try it, test the spl, get my wife's ears in here, and "report back..."?

Please, you are not diminishing my ideas at all; the more constructive criticism, observations and information, the better off I will be (besides I diminish my ideas all on my own). The greatest thing about the Forum (for me, anyways), is that it makes one think about alternatives and consider other good ideas! Yes sir, as soon as I win the lottery, a pair of Jubilees are right up there on the list. Actually, if I win the lottery, I'll build a new house and flush mount a couple pairs of the KPT-MCM-3's or 4's (or whatever those monsters are called), throw a few KPT-535 Jubilees in the bedroom, and give the Klipschorn's to the kids (pearls before the swine...). In any event, I first noticed that pesky comb filter problem (well discussed at those two articles you kindly provided) many years ago when I first stuffed 2 pairs of K-horns, 2 pairs of Heresy's, and 2 pairs of 4311's in an apartment living room the size of most bathrooms while on active duty in Germany. It seemed, and still does, that the number one thing is the "horizontal plane" of placement. Arraying them all in line, along that "line", seems to be the root of the problem. In the case of this room, I'm wondering several things; first, if this "false" corner from the stereo cabinet has not altered the propagation geometry to where the "dead spots" are not as noticeable. Second, I'm wondering that since the inner pair is firing towards the side walls, whether that additional delay in arrival by using the walls to reflect the signal may also be somewhat compensatory. I also found that placing other objects in the room (symetrically) also helped, probably due to benevolent interference. This room is 24' x 24' and because they are "unnaturally" close to each other, I may not be far enough away to really notice it. That being said, I always have found in the past (and this room is no exception) that whenever I used the Heresy's on top as a speaker system B (when also using the system A's Khorns at the same time) required a very careful adjustment in and/or out, and adjustment of the angle of "attack" (toe in/out) to overcome the filtering effect. Once I found the right spot, the difference was dramatic. Same issue arose with the 2 Heresy pairs in the living room when we first bought the house and moved in. I had to alter the "angle of attack". The pairs are 24' apart, two on each side of the room, at about 7' off the ground and about 4 inches apart. Outer pair is about 10 degrees off the axis of the side walls; inner pair set about 4 inches further back, but are about 15 degrees "off axis". This took trial and error, and once I found the "spot", they sound fine pretty much throughout the room. There are two "lobe" areas about 3' square, of some bass attenuation that are present (about 2/3 of the way deep, and about 1/3 of the way from either side wall), but these are symetrical and unless someone stands on the two coffee/end tables located at those spots,..... Trial and error, and each room has always been different. When I retire and move, we are going to build another house, and have a dedicated stereo/ home theater room that is about 36' feet wide but only 24' deep, with a 16' wide x 12' deep "church nave" in the center of the speaker wall. I also want to have the ceiling "vaulted" with the speaker wall as the starting 8' height and opening up to 14' to take advantage of the volume change. Sort of a giant horn. Experimentation is certainly the way to go.

Yup, I suppose it sorta puts Bose to shame....; you can see why I'm thinking that if I can slightly deflect the bass, or bias it left or right, it could widen or narrow (or lengthen or shorten) that "circle of life" to suit other room configurations. As far as other mid horns, bi-radial tweeters, etc., my budget is really too restrictive and my wife (bless her WAF heart) really likes the appearance of the Klipsch speakers. When I had JBL control monitors (4311's, 4312's, L-166's) and Klipsch all over the place, she complained alot about the house looking like a high end stereo store. So all the JBL's went to other new homes.... While the diagram does not show it; each K-Horn also has a Heresy-I on top that can also be angled (Sometimes I just listen to the Heresy's). There will also be a pair of angled up and out Heresy's in the rear corners at some point when I get finished with a Heresy-I rebuild project (cabinets done, but still waiting for more lacquer primer to come in).

BTW, Below is the diagram of the setup I've been fooling around with. The basic idea was to use a second pair of Klipschorns to compensate and expand or widen the normally narrow "perfect" listening spot. It's a "home theater/ stereo" experiment "in process". As a matter of explanation, I use an Esoteric Sound Super Connector to "collect" the 250mv outputs from the CD/cassette, turntable, DirecTV/XM radio, and DVD, and send them to an AX-7 mixer. Each pair of speakers (79' KC-BB's and 85' KC-BR's) is independently "amped"; they only see an identical source coming from the AX-7. I simply use the mixer to control master volume once the amps are "set" and matched. I am going to experiment with the "wave vanes" on K-Horn pair #2. Using separate (but identical) amps allows for fine tuning with sound volumes. It also allows for use of one, the other, or both (or more) sets of speakers, dependent upon what I'm doing. I can do work at my desk with only one pair at a really low volume with the weather channel or an XM channel, or grab a cold one and turn it into the "wall of voodoo" (if my wife is not home...). Other thing I'm going to do in a few months is modify the system cabinet to hold a pair of LaScala's as a "center" channel. They will be on a separate identical amp also. When that time comes, I'll probably look up the bass mod plans for the bass reflex ports for the LS's and add that when I re-finish them. My current testing method (until I can replace my 4 ancient and not working omni directional microphones), while far less than scientific, works fairly well in my case.... I go get my wife... (WAF factor...). She's fairly critical sometimes, and as the mother of children, has that super human, ultra enhanced, almost mythical ability to hear anything that does not sound right (especially when the kids are up to something...) I put her in the center and ask her, "Honey, does "a" sound better, or.... "b" sound better?". First project, however is to fool around with wave guides on pair #2.

The "false corners" are like what Klipsch has done with the 60th Anniversary Klipschorn to as they described, "allow toe in or out". The photo below is the side view of the Klipsch advertisement photo for the 60th Anniversary version. Interestingly, they also enclosed the tops. I'm ok with my corners, but am experimenting with placements in corners that are odd or unequal from left to right. I'm testing one pair in normal corners, and a second pair as an inner pair with the left side of a component cabinet as the "right wall" for the left speaker, and the right side of the cabinet as the the "left wall", for the right speaker. Sound's ok, and interestingly, because the second pair of Klipschorns are firing 90 degrees away from the normal axis, the apparent stereo center is much wider and further back than the normal axis intersection. When running both pairs, this "presence" becomes even wider and deeper.

I wonder why it did not end up in production; unless it was insignificant; that being said, how did it work on the clones? Again the thing I'm really wondering is what a variable "wave guide" would do for unequal (cluttered, uneven lengths, etc.) corners. I think I'm going to make two versions, an equal, and a 60/40 bias version that you could "flip" and apply or force more to left or right to compensate. I suspect it will knock off spl, but for limited applications, or for folks with poor corners (at least until they move or modify a room), it may help.

Interesting! Thanks; if that is an idea to reduce the wave bounce, can I assume the apex of the wedge should be as close to the opening as possible? Also, thoughts about "bias" to left or right by an "off angle" deflection scheme?

Currently working on the restoration of a pair of KC-BR's. While sitting and looking at the bins and the geometry of the deflector panel, I was thinking (it hurts to do this sometimes...), and I thought about two things; First, how would a triangular "wave guide" help really "aim" or deflect the bass around the final corner, and second, if that is a possible idea, why not a variable "wave guide vane" that allows for bias to the left or right. Reason for #2 idea is that most folks probably don't have identical open wall space on both sides of the K'horn. The ability to "bias" which side it comes out may be an interesting option. So... thinking about this, I also thought that most people really don't want to permanently install either a or b, so if it was made with 1/2" plywood pieces, installed with velcro, it would allow the user to experiment with the effects. Below is a diagram; could some of the technical folks look at this and opine. I am going to test it in a couple of months and see what happens.

Special Thank You to Bob Crites and Klipschaholic for helping me figure this out. We're real rural down here and I "don't get out much" with this advanced computer stuff.[:$]

6 of 6; photos were taken with a Nikon D-1 and the original images were 650k+, so I had to resize them down to less than 35k (avatar size) to get this to work.

On #4 you can see where the megaman toy hit the cone material; #5 of 6 below

#4, etc.

Third picture

IT WORKED[] Note the edgebanding on the front; it changes hue as you move around. Second picture:

Here is the first picture using the instructions: If it does not work, I'll try something different

Thanks on "how to do it"; I'm at the office right now, leaving to head home in a couple hours and will try it. Quick question, do you or anyone know the largest size a .jpg can be (or how small it has to be...) in order for it to work as an insert?

First attempt at a "picture"; images are quite large, so if it does not work, email me at ocsosheriff1@okeechobee.com and I'll send them that way. The culprit is in the background in "time out"....

First thing.... I have damaged one of the woofers while taking the grills off to take pictures; took the grill off, laid the speaker down on it's back, walked away to answer the phone, told everyone "don't go near it", and my 8 year old came and looked and dropped his "megaman" toy on the woofer cone; [:'(] Result: shallow gouge, approximately 1" long near outer edge at 8:00 o'clock position. After much crying on my part.... I removed it, checked, and applied some coning repair latex (from my old JBL 4311 days...) on the back side (just in case). It's dried, flexible, cannot detect any sound problems, etc. [] Result: Cosmetics, and I don't have a spare K-24. Solution; I am taking the pictures now, and will reduce the price from $326 to $275 just in case someone still wants them. I don't blame anyone for not wanting them now, and if no-one wants them, off they go on top of the bookshelves with the other HWO's for the living room. Oh well..... Eventually I'll find another good pair of K-24's, replace them (if you do one, you might as well do the other one...) and try this again. WAF comments: My wife said. "oh dear, but they still look so pretty".... [:S] Pictures will follow as soon as I can figure out how to load them on the forum.[:$]

Edited to take into account the issue with the "megaman" toy attack on the K-24 woofer further discussed in this posting. I have just finished a long overdue "project" on refinishing an old pair of H-II's. [] After reading that Forum members have asked that anyone who is going to sell Klipsch speakers, to please post them to the Forum first before putting them on eBay, etc., it is so done as asked. These may be particularly attractive to a new member looking for a good pair of Heresy's and on a limited budget. IInterested folks can call me at 863-634-7038 (24/7) or email me direct at ocsosheriff1@okeechobee.com ________________________________________________________________ KLIPSCH HERESY-II, PR, HBR, EX-, REFINISHED Model HBR, Serial Numbers: 8559091 & 8559092 Manufactured in December 1985. Considered as one of the finest stereo speaker systems, the Heresy's have been in constant production since 1957. Condtion: (EDITED)Very Good (WERE EXCELLENT MINUS UNTIL THE MEGAMAN TOY STRIKE...). I am the second owner. Original owner finished them with an oil based rosewood stain, however, over time (21 years...) the stain had dried out, and the stain was losing it's natural dark hue; The original owner also had several corner "dings", and a few, almost undetectable scratches that were apparently filled at the time of his original staining. I have lightly sanded them (first with 220 & then with 300 with a random orbital finishing sander), and applied another coat of the original type of rosewood stain/finish.Cabinets and internal braces were inspected. Bracing is tight and the glue is not dried out, etc. Cabinets are "square", generally no seam or edge separations.Standard black grill cloth with the original copper emblems; Cloth is excellent. All of the grill cloth has been lightly cleaned with steam, and looks like new. The serial number sheets are intact, are factory stapled and glued on the rear of the speakers. Due to age, etc., there are imperfections and tears on these sheets. The serial numbers, etc., however, are clear. Drivers are original and (EDITED: with the one exception with a non-perforating gouge on one of the K-24 woofer coning material), are otherwise in perfect condition. Drivers were removed, inspected, and tested. Each driver was tested with a multi-meter for proper resistance, etc. Drivers are as follows: Bass: K-24-K; Manufacture Date Code 8540 (September 1985); Black Frame Midrange: K-53-K; Manufacture Date Code 8544 (late September, early October 1985); Midrange Horn: Plastic K-701's (Factory original type for H-II's) Tweeter & Horn Assembly: K-76-K; No codes shown Crossover: Standard Type H-II; No Numbers; Crossover Frequencies: 700/6000. I chose these particular Klipsch Heresy's for a project because (1) This pair of cabinets had an unusual wood pattern; (2) few "dings", very few scratches, (3) drivers were virtually perfect condition, and (4) other than a light re-staining to bring out the wood pattern, were in otherwise very nice condition. These are actually quite beautiful, especially in natural light, due to the aggressive (and unusual) grain patterns. The rosewood stain really brings out these patterns, particularly on the tops and the front edge banding. They appear to be almost like a "burl" in appearance, and the edge banding changes hue when viewed from different angles. Driver boards were redone with a fresh coat of textured flat enamel, and the drivers and crossovers were re-installed with new gaskets. Gaskets are a 20 mil thick, compressible Felpro material, rather than closed cell foam. The original foam gasket material was commercial "weather stripping" (per Klipsch Parts...). Unfortunately, foam weather stripping will deteriorate with age, and will eventually turn into a sticky mess.... Felpro material is flexible, does not decompose over time, and seals speaker drivers and cabinet enclosures very well. In addition, it can be removed immediately if you want to remove the drivers for refinishing, etc. I've used it on my Klipschorn's, LaScalas, etc., and it works perfectly. The speakers will also come with: (1) A complete, detailed, refinishing procedures instruction paper, just in case the buyer wants to finish them again with another stain, or veneer them. (2) A copy of the Klipsch Factory Heresy-II instructions I collect and refinish Klipsch speakers as my "WAF" (wife acceptance factor...) approved hobby. I do not make any money, profit, etc. I'm satisfied to only obtain my costs incurred during the project. I don't charge for "labor", or attempt to sell my Klipsch "project" speakers at whatever I think the "market price" will bear. This pair was my next project and the project is now completed. The the project cost - $326. Minus $50 for the "incident" yesterday with the K-24.... Packing is $22 for new styrofoam boards and new "dish" type heavy duty boxes from UPS. Shipping is, of course, dependent upon your location, as calculated by the eBay shipping calculator (which is very accurate), unless you pick them up. NOTES: POWER REQUIREMENTS, CARE AND CLEANING: The Klipsch Heresy's are a very efficient speaker. 1 watt at 1 meter will produce 96-97 decibels of sound...... Bottom line, you do not need a very "big" amplifier. Maximum amplifier input, per Klipsch, is only 100 watts. An amplifier with 70-75 watts per channel will be more than sufficient to drive them without getting arrested for disturbing the peace. Volume "4" out of 10 with a good quality 80 watt amplifier will drive your wife, kids, dogs, cats, large farm animals (and the neighbors) for cover .... The amplifier, however, must be of good quality, relatively low distortion and be able to produce peak power of at least 100 watts (RMS). Klipsch speakers are not only efficient, they also reproduce sound with absolute and brutal clarity. Poor amplifier quality, poor input source, crappy LP's, cassettes, CD's... you will hear it!.... Guaranteed!!... Owners should treat vintage Klipsch speakers as good quality furniture. They are made from furniture grade birch plywood. Klipsch Heresy's came (and still do) with various very high quality, furniture grade veneers. This pair, specifically, are birch plywood, with birch veneer. Originally they were classified as "unfinished" or "BR" (the "BR" in the model description means - Birch, Raw). They have been stained with a high quality, oil based, rosewood stain. They can be further stained and/or sealed to darken or change the hue to a more "reddish" or a more "golden" or brown color, dependent upon the interior decor of the room. A buyer with little or no experience in wood finishing should generally consult with a professional furniture refinisher, before applying different stains, or application of a final sealant (should be a high quality, commercial grade polyurethane, varnish, or clear laquer, etc.). They can also be re-veneered with other woods. Again, unless you are familiar with veneering, you should consult a professional cabinet maker or carpenter before doing this. You do not necessarily need to seal them, you can simply apply a very light coat of a quality furniture oil such as Watco Oil, tung oil, etc. every six months or a year. Over time, however, wood that is stained will tend to lighten, and oiling will protect the wood, and retain the hue. PURCHASING OPTIONS: OPTION - A. Bring your money order or bank cashier's check and pick them up in Okeechobee, FL 34972 (Directions will be provided if you so choose to do this). Prior to "turn-over", to you, they will be demonstrated. Bring a CD of your choice for testing; If you are not happy, then simply go home and keep looking. If you live within a 100 mile radius of Okeechobee, this is the least expensive way. OPTION - B. Send the Cashier's Check or Money Order with the packing & shipping costs. Packing is $22 as described and shipping is determined on your zip code from 34972. Calculate on a 18" x 18" x 24 box that weighs 51 pounds x two boxes.

Jay referred to probably one of the best points in regards to this. Time.... You have to let anything glued, filled, painted, etc. sufficient time to dry out. Fans surely help, but temperature and humidity are the big factors. I've tried silicone before on other non-speaker wood project, but with mixed results. Greatest drawback with silicone down here is it "peels" after age. If you get any on a surface that will be painted or stained, it's a disaster because it contaminates the wood and the stain, lacquer, paint, etc. won't stick. I asked a construction carpenter about silicone and he told me that the greatest problem with using it is expansion, contraction, and humidity in wood. Wood expands and contracts, the silicone does not. He does love Liquid Nails... It is the construction carpenter's best friend. It will stick anything to anything..... dries like a rock, and is not affected by our 4-5 month monsoon season.... Wrench also brought up a very good point about straight edges, cuts, etc. as they relate to sealing. If the pieces to be glued are not relatively "exact" (or at least fairly close), then there's going to be a lot of work with Bondo, Loctite, Titebond, etc. We had to re-cut one of the H-I project's battens/ braces twice before we learned our lesson well. We ended up using a precision "chop" saw and cutting them to exact size plus about 1/2 mm. Then we lightly sanded the excess away until we had that exact, slight "interference" fit. One of the things that really helps with glueing and making sure things stay put (and also seal properly) is a staple gun. I made the investment in a good quality "finishing" staple gun similar to what Klipsch uses. Uses 9/32" crown staples, shoots 3/4" to 1.5". It's been a fantastic tool for the H-I project to make sure that the braces stay aligned over time, and makes sure the final sealing works. Only drawback is if you don't have the brace/ batten perfectly aligned, you may end up cutting another one... We also "got smart" when replacing several panels and the braces. Before breaking out the glue pot and stapler,.... we constructed an outer frame to make things remain exactly "square" until the cabinet had been glued, stapled, clamped, etc for at least 24 hours. I also made an "alignment tool" out of several pieces of 3/4 square birch scrap. Each of the four pieces "sticks" out from another piece to a specified distance. I apply the glue, used the tool to position the brace exactly left/ right and in/out, and then staple from the center out and wipe off the "squeezins". Interesting observation on sealing is warped wood. This weekend is another H-I project "motor" board weekend... This is however, the second time round. First time, black laquer primer (Valspar/OPEX - like Klipsch) was applied to front face. 24 hours later, the panels were ever so slightly warped! and the slight "interference" fit was no longer there for a good seal. Had to cut new ones and that is a royal pain!! This time I primed both sides and voila! No warpage, and drops in perfect with that nice "clunk" sound with only finger taps all round. Local "expert" resources have become very important lately. I've made friends with the cabinet maker, the paint people, the wood flooring guy, the construction carpenters, etc. A good source for sealing and a potential product to do it could be your local air conditioning contractor. In the A/C business, a sealed enclosure is a "religious" thing. A good friend is an installer and he told me about a product used on ducting. It is "air tight" and will expand or contract with the ducting in the different temps. It looks like a putty, or Bondo, and dries hard and is paintable. It's called "mastic", it's expensive, usually comes in gallons, but unlike "bondo", requires no "two part" mixing. According to "Mr. Mechanical", it can be found at Home Depot, etc. Glueing, glue types and generally sticking two pieces of wood together can be a science project. I've noticed that while everyone has a favorite, everyone seems to agree that the best thing to do is "try it" on scrap wood and go from there.

Well.... Me and my buddies got together a few weeks ago and were discussing the fine art of zymurgy, as practiced by Samuel Adams, and it's potential applications in Klipsch testing.... So... First we drug out a pair of Klipschorns (you shoulda' seen it, it looked like a bunch of drunken dung beetles carryin' them BB's) and set them on the back porch. Not findin' any corners, we improvised, adapted and overcame... Went back into the garage and got us 8 sheets of 4x8 hurricane plywood sheets, several 2x4's, the drill.., and made us some corners in about 30 minutes. Back porch opens onto the pool and the pasture (this is important....). Dropped in a Pink Floyd DSOTM CD and cranked them up to about 30 watts or so. Unbelievable.... We all headed to the pool about 30 feet away and it was like an open air concert from back in the day in Europe in the military... Meanwhile..., my wife's horses gathered at the pasture fence and gave us the "look"... So.. we headed to the pasture to be friendly and went about 200 yards due south. Had the most reliable amongst us give them about 60 watts.... Unbelievable..... Great!!! Swapped them with the LaScala's, same effect. Tried a couple pairs of Heresy's. Very good, but after about 100 yards, they dropped off. Put the LS's & the Heresy's away, and reinstalled the K-horn's. Headed to the pool with the cooler and had a great time until my wife came home. At that point, the K'horns sounded puny compared to She Who Must Be Obeyed... Oh well......... You only live twice, or sumthin' like that...

Me and my fiberglass buddy (he does our plywood, resin and other wood jobs on our agency boats, and the bazillion dollar boats that float around south Florida) have experimented with a number of glues in the Heresy & Klipchorn restoration/ refinishing projects as of late. The caveat for us here is temperature and humidity, so bear with us and keep this in mind. Our problem is (always... 90 degree temeratures and 90 percent humidity, 90 percent of the time). We found that "gorilla glue" works best in very small amounts for say, bead on bottom of internal bracing. We've tried a number of commercial grade wood glues on panels, currently we've found that Loctite Woodworx works very well, and seems to be about as close to the "yellow stuff" used in 77-85 Heresy's and K'horns. That being said, and after readin' on the forum somewhere about the bass bin sealing on K'horns to prevent "leakage", we sat down and looked at the glues specifically used on Heresy's. We noted that on H-I's, it was fairly "hard", and on H-2's it seemed to be almost pliable, even after aging. We did find that on every cabinet "failure" we looked at, the glue had simply dried out and thus.... Humidity plays a part here; high humidity over time will cause panel separation or warpage; once that starts, it's just a matter of time before the glue flakes out and bites the big one. We tried a number of glues that, while after 24-48 hours was cured, also had that "rubbery" feel to the fingernail. We ended up with Loctite as the first choice and Elmers as the second choice. A furniture guy who also contributes to the projects at hand recommended a number of commercial "yellow" glues. But what was interesting, is that he said as long as it's designed for permanent wood bonding, the brand may not really be an issue. As far as "sealing", especially with the Heresy project, after the final assembly, we ended up doing exactly like it appears Klipsch did on the original junk cabinets we are trying to resurrect... Bondo... on all gaps on the internal braces where they will flush to the motor board and rear panel. We then applied Loctite in a small bead along all brace and panel joints. Read somewhere in a forum post about "pressure" testing via the terminal hole(s). Tried it and almost destroyed a cabinet. It held air at about 2 psi for about 30 seconds, and when we vented it, it vented.... Analysis... It worked. The key we found in all of our 'foolin' around is to first, apply enough glue, clan up the "queezins", and allow all glue to dry completely, and if we are replacing a panel, keep it clamped for at least 48 hours. But then again, it's Florida and the temps and humidity play a key role in this stuff. We also found that using new closed cell foam gasket strip, or a thick "Felpro" gasket on the access panels also goes a long way in proper sealing. The foam type, especially here in the Sunshine State..., will deteriorate over time and leave a sticky mess, but using Felpro gasket material (and custom cutting it) works very well, compresses perfectly to any imperfections in the plywood substrate, and in a few years, it can be easily removed, surface areas can be cleaned, and a new gasket applied. This is what I've done with my K'horn bass bins. Felpro is (like Bondo..., found at your automotive parts store) in rolls and is relatively cheap. Hope this helps.