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InVeNtOr

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    2009
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Posts posted by InVeNtOr

  1. i guess it depends on what you have available.  i personally have an Oak ET Center, well, it's more of a TV stand.  i attached "latters" to the back of the cabinet and then routed the cables with zip ties.  i have no idea how anyone not in aviation can get such "latters" though.

    the basic routing issues...

    keep power wires and all signal wires seperate....

    if you have to cross power and signal, do it at 90 degrees....

    if you have to route them paralle, keep them 2" apart (if possible)...

    build custom length harness for entire system! (OUCH! said the wallet!)

    audio/video devices, find/build 100% emi cables, those are actually pretty cheap...

    power cables, either buy or make some type of shielded/EMI protected cables....

    speaker wire, at a minimum have a twisted wire, if EMI is an issue, go with Star....

    post-23806-13819445763612_thumb.jpg
    post-23806-13819445764892_thumb.jpg
    wow, that's an old pic....that's when i thought it would be a "great idea" to bi-wire! lmao!
  2. sure. i don't have the program up and running, but as soon as i do, i will post them.  no, they are just a CAD design i thought of.  i looked back and i have 4 different designs, or at least 4 different models with different names....lol

    i think i was going for a poor mans Palladium that is easer to build.

    the tweeter i think was a PE choice. i don't remember.  i did make the cut out 130mm x 130mm so i assume i had something in mind. i had a ton of emails with Bob so i would have taken his advice on the tweeter. 

  3. holy cow! ok, i didn't want to derail the topic....to me, anything past 7 speakers is just nuts.  now if you are daddy war bucks and you have a 10,000sqft dedicated room....yeah, sure go nuts....

    i guess you can use the phrase.... "if you build it, they will buy it!"

    • Like 1
  4. ok, so i have to ask this question, the UMC-1, UMC-200, and XMC-1 all don't support Atmos, so what's the processor / receiver that does? actually, just processor, i won't buy a receiver again. well, let me re-phrase...what's the processor that's most common to Klipsch folks that supports Atmos...???

    (Nismo, i did read your sig, i see your Denon)

  5. just got an email from Knukonceptz....they will officially claim they wire is 99.99% or 4N.  that's pretty good, especially at that "lower" price point. MP is 99.95%. now the debate statement....will you "hear" the difference....lol!

    that Furutech 4t wire i used and now i have for sale is 99.999% or 5N. 

    oh, they did tell me their purity is .001% which would make them have a 99.999% cable, but they won't make a claim to it.  their OFC is 101% of IACS and they told me Ultra Pure copper tops out at 102.75% IACS.

    or you can just use tin foil or coat hangers....lmao!

     

    bottom line, they have good wire for a good price.

    • Like 1
  6. lets see if this works....

    it did!

    ok, i don't have the dimensions on this, but they are there....just hidden.  once i swap hard drives and get my drafting program up and running i can supply any and all needed. i know on this design i gave up on having a grill.  i don't use them so i figured why spend the money one some to cover these up. 

    Assembly1.pdf

  7. nope, that link is right.  it's their standard wire that is CL rated.  they come twisted, nothing drastic like 12 per foot, more like 3-4 twists per foot.  still a better option for EMI over flat.  since it's less than $3 for 100ft, i think its just a touch better choice. then again, it's what the OP thinks....

  8. lol...i didn't even catch that. (post #28)

    Tin isn't a bad thing.  i personally don't like it for the mains.  i don't think Tin plated sounds that good on the RF-7's/RC-7.  that's just on opinion though....that and $5 gets you coffee at SBux!

  9. Youth, those GLS are also supposed to be pretty good.  they have the BFA style as well. for me i just never liked the locking.  maybe it was because the RCA's i had all were real close to each other on the UMC and it was a real pain to install and remove.

  10. BFA banana plugs

     

    this is supposed to be a good cheap copy brand.

     

    with banana plugs, some like the locking, i don't.  i had some RCA locking plugs, i don't use them anymore.  sad, they cost a little bit of coin.  i would suggest BFA style because they will have a tighter fit. the style like the MP, just sucks, cheap or expensive version. 

    • Like 1
  11. yeah, having Copper plated would suck bad!

     

    Banana plugs.... these are not too bad.  some of the China ones are actually pretty good.  it comes down to the finish process but i doubt any HT set up can improve/degrade with a quality china one vs. expensive one.

    me personally, after $10 each....that's my limit.  i only needed 6 (12 total, both ends), so i upped the budget.  when i have a bi-wire set up and 7 speakers, it was monoprice all the way! lol!

  12. it's a long answer but basically, for speaker sound performance, Tin will mimic more of a "silver" sound, just not as smooth.  silver tends to be more bright and the lower the quality it starts to be harsh.  as far as general purpose, i like the Tin.  in fact all my rear speakers are teflon coat, tin plated because they are in the wall.  copper will corrode over time which will ruin that nice warm neutral sound.  surrounds you generally want bright or sharp for the effects, so the Tin plating doesn't effect it. 

    since i have 7's, and i did the mod, i try to keep as much silver, rhodium, or tin out of the connections.

  13. i agree about the Banana plugs.  i used them for a while and the only way i got them to work great... i used two pairs of pliers and really cinched them down, then for the top, i carefully tighten them.  lastly, i took one of my pics or jewelers screwdriver and bent the 4 prongs out more.  they did make better contact.  i eventually bought some Furutech plugs on closeout from Sonic Craft. those are amazing.  in my Garage sale ad, i show a pic of one of them bent because they held up my LPA-1 amp when the shelf fell! i can't believe 1 plug held that amp up! i'm sticking with those suckers!

  14. the internet is going to explode....this is a horrible question on this specific forum....lol....

    can't wait to see what happens....

    for what it's worth....here are a few suggestions.....

    Monoprice 14awg Star

    VH Audio Star (u have to scroll down) -not the best choice for speaker cables, but will work well -

    Canare 4S11 Star

    AntiCables

    Monoprice 12awg

     

    here's how this works....if you have a high end 2ch music only system, you generally invest in different cables and wire.  sometimes it gets "ridiculous" in OTHER peoples opinion, but it's your hobby, buy what makes you happy.

    if you have a 100% HT, then you can skimp on cables and wire and it won't effect the final product that much. 

    bottom line is, if you can hear a difference, then it's something you may want to think about.  i personally won't spend that much, investing in better speakers / gear is always going to net better/ more results.

    you didn't give any information on what kind of system you have or what you like to use it for....

    keep in mind, high end wire will never make an "OK" system great, at most, cables just add a touch of color to suit your personal tastes.

     

    after all that, for a general suggestion for mainly used HT system, i would suggest the Canare 4S11, monoprice Star, than monoprice 12awg.  the reason i suggest a Star speaker cable over a standard twisted is for EMI protection.  most people here just lay the wires/cables in and there can be a chance of interference. all 3 of those choices are 3N copper purity (Anticables is 5N/6N) which is about standard.  if you just need to hook some speakers us, go with the monoprice 12awg because you won't find a better cheaper wire. as a general note, always stick with some kind of twisted wire over flat for the same EMI reasons.  the Star is just better at EMI.

    price per ft:

    4S11: $1.16

    MP 14awg star: $0.41

    MP 12awg: $0.32

    anticables: $6

    VH audio: $9.49

     

    you didn't ask, but Monoprice has descent banana plugs 

  15. so who among the group is the go-to Cornscala guru? i need a little help.  i've always wanted to build a custom set with custom dimensions.  i have a professional CAD program (i have a degree in it, but all i've used it for is drawing speakers!) and have designed a set.  i'd like to send over a rendering or detailed drawing and see if any error pop up.  i would greatly take suggestions for parts. a while back i had the woofers picked out, Bob Crites i think, and i believe GotHover had a wooden horn that was said to be the best....

    but there has been many moons since then, so i honestly don't know what the best route is. 

    there is also the question of...are Cornscalas still a good choice? i'm a movies only guy and will most likely stick with a 2.1 set up.

  16. Again...want versus need.

     

    You will not find agreement on the forum as to whether an amp is definitely something you "need."  With a 3.1 like you're planning, a flagship receiver is all that you really "need."  Now, would an amp make things sound a little better...maybe/maybe not, and that's where you're finding the disagreements above ^^^.  But do you "need" the amp...no.  A strong receiver will provide you all the power that you "need" for your planned setup. 

     

    But, there's that nagging set of "what if" questions that only you can decide on.  If those are going to bug you, then by all means, get the pre/pro with an amp.  If not, then get a high quality receiver and just enjoy it without worrying about the rest.  A good quality receiver will get you 90%+ of the way there (and some of us may argue that it's even more than that).  The other 10% (or less) you may or may not hear...as evidenced by the disagreement here in the forum.  To a certain extent, we all hear what we want to hear, especially when it comes to our gear in our room.  Go with what will make you happy with your gear in your room. 

     

    Best wishes on the decision.

    AGREE^^^

    • Like 1
  17.  

    The easiest thing would be to get a good preamp and attach something like emotiva xpa3 with it(even though not available in my country and i would have to import it).

     

    This would yield the best results.  Can you find an amp locally?

     

    agree ^^^^^

    i have a LPA-1 that i bought first and used it to power my RF-7's and RC-7.  i preferred the XPA-3 after the upgrade.  the LPA-1 then powered the 4 surrounds. side note, a LPA-1 powering 3 speakers has more Watts per channel than a XPA-3.  (still prefer the XPA-3....lol....)

    did i say i preferred the XPA-3?

  18. is anyone possibly interested in a Emotiva LPA-1 amp? 7ch 125 x 5 & 50 w x 2.  i used it for a short time to bi-amp my mains/center and then to power the mains/center....then to just power the Surrounds.  i also have 4ea RS-42s, they all have had crossover upgrades.  nothing to crazy, just caps, resistors, and binding posts. i used Sonic Craft caps and mills resistors. the binding posts are Rhodium.  FYI i used those items because i wanted a very sharp, detailed, clear surround. 

    i have the box for the amp and 1 pair of RS-42s.  the other pair i do not have a box.  everything is in great/ good condition.  i even have some nice African Mahogany hard wood speaker stands which are 36" tall. 

    i know this forum you guys are picture crazy, i can post some, but i just wanted to see if anyone was even remotely interested first.

    i also don't know fair market value, normally the value is based on what people are willing to spend so it's really up to the interested parties. i don't need to sell these items, but they have been sitting boxed up since 2011.

     

    ask away.....

    • Like 1
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