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InVeNtOr

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    2009
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Everything posted by InVeNtOr

  1. yes he does. they are in storage right now.
  2. well, he said they were plain, but i think he mean's "raw" BUT he said he also stained them. yes, fully functional. i don't believe he has risers because when i showed him the current Herseys he immediately asked about the risers. so, no, he doesn't have any risers.
  3. hey fellow K-Heads...i have a co-worker who was curious what his original Herseys would sell for. now, i know, pics, pics, pics...BUT, i don't have any of that right now. they are in great condition, no issues there, BUT do not have the boxes! he's located in OKC and shipping is always a nightmare! i'm sorry i don't have a ton of info, if someone was actually looking to buy and has the cash now, i'm sure we can get detailed pics and serial information. he's just looking for a ballpark figure. i did a search on here and saw some for $800, but i also didn't see any takers. on ebay "BIN" the prices are a little spread out, but it appears $500 for a pair in "good" condition seems about the average. let me know what you think and if there are any specific questions i need to ask him. thanks again!
  4. ^^^ what he said! most AVR's are about the same. if you went Separates, that's a whole notha' level! i personally suggest separates because it's easier to upgrade, but the 1 big draw back, it's slower to get the newest features. take HDR for TVs now. if your TV is HDR, then you buy a HDR player....now your receiver has to have it or at least a pass through that will allow it. so there is a slight trade off. Emotiva MC-700 = $599 Emotiva A-700 = $599 that processor is HDR compliant.total cost is $1200 for a true 7ch amp. AVR's never have the advertised watts per channel and the number they do show, is ONLY for a 2ch set up. you can also buy an AVR and hook up a Emotiva Amp to it. i did that for a while, but in reality it's cheaper to just get the processor.
  5. there is no shame in a 3.1. just because you "can" put more speakers, doesn't mean you get true surround sound. making that pure bubble of sound is very hard to do. yes, installing speakers will create noise, but a true effect. if anything, move the 2 rear speakers as far back as you can and stick with a 5.1. the 2 sides are just too close.. you want those sides to around 5-6ft away (to give that true sound). we all understand WAF, so there is no issue with room placement. everything is a compromise. yes, you should be concerned the RW-5802 only goes down to 45hz. find something that goes down to 18hz. for WAF factor, a Sunfire True 12" sub is unbeatable. it's only 13" cubed but goes down to 16hz (i think). try and find the "Bob Carver Signature" model. it's a very specific mode and has a different amp than the standard 12" model. they don't make them, but you can find them used for pretty cheap. that sub is great for music as well HT.
  6. dynomat. it serves 2 purposes. it will sound dampen, but it will also absorb vibrations which will give you a more structurally sound cabinet. it basically gives you the sound of very well braced cabinets. i have some aviation grade stuff in my 7's, but dynomat is pretty much the same thing. go for the .5" stuff. you can even put the .25" stuff on your plastic speakers and it will make those plastic speakers sound like wooden speakers. do one side and A/B it!
  7. keep in mind, all klipsch caps are +/- 10% (djk mentioned this for parts express, you can do the same thing for Sonic Craft) 1.125 to 1.375 values will work. why not just get the 1uf and .22uf? ($6.85 + $7.93 = $14.78) my only question would be, do you have the room? the most important thing to remember is to "match" the caps on the front 3 speakers. usually this adds 10% to the cost. if you are nuts (like me) you match your surround speakers as well!)
  8. oh...yeah...um....that sucks. i've even heard nightmares about the pallet shipping method. i had Jason (on here) build some custom subs for my client and they were damaged, on a pallet! well, the company said Jason didn't package them "enough" and my client now has banged up subs. so, yeah i get it. i actually didn't even think about the fact you will have so many boxes. it's like when i saw "7.2" i couldn't do the math! my bad. well, for smaller items or maybe not quite as few, the FedEx account is a great way to save money! GLWTS!
  9. Friday the 13th bump.... so, just asking....when it comes to shipping do you have a FedEx account? it's free, i have one and it saves me a ridiculous amount. i believe i shipped my LPA-1 amp for $30-40? just throwing it out there....
  10. ok, if you are not setting your speakers with an analog SPL meter, you are missing out. you need to get one, use a tripod, and correctly place all your speakers. this isn't a 5 minute ordeal. this may take a day or so. go to THX.com or DolbyDigital.com look at the optional placements and put your speakers there. run a test. then change the speakers slightly and test again. repeat until it sounds the best to you. Sub placement is a tricky science. the Sub crawl will get you very close, then you need to mess with the sub's crossover setting on it to dial it in. i personally have my RF-7's set to 40hz and i think the sub is at 80hz. i don't know the exact number off my head, but it's the one that sounds the best (in my open living room). Spoiler: THX says all speakers should be set at 80hz. start there and adjust as needed. i think i have my center at 100hz. it takes a while to figure out what sounds best to you. you surround speakers, not only do you need to adjust the placement length wise against the wall, you need to mess with the height of them. move them in 6" increments. oh, in the future, if you ever think the RF-7's are the issue, you did something wrong! lmao!
  11. i had my buddy buy 2 subs from Jason (on here) and 1 was damaged, even though it was on a pallet! oh, and you guessed it, the shipper said it wasn't their fault! i would almost build a 2x4 wooden cage around it! i know this, if you make an account on FedEx, shipping rates are retarded cheap! it's free, just register and follow all the steps. this could also be one of the reasons buying a used sub isn't as good as buying new, the shipping cost for us are expensive!
  12. quick update...i sold ALL my left over cables and included my spare Cat 6 speaker cable. so if i contacted you and said i'd let you borrow it, um....well...i can't now! sorry! almost a little sad all my extra stuff is gone! oh well, i'll use the little money i got to buy cycling stuff!!!!
  13. um...my 2 cents....after you are done crying, go find someone on here to "demo" their RF-7's....and then....well....you know....make it look like an accident! lmao! ok, super joking! i have RF-7's and you can NOT visit me! lmao! have you put an ad in the Garage section for a woofer? you may get no hits for a single woofer, but think about buying a complete speaker, that way you have all the spare parts you need! someone has got to have a "damaged" one.
  14. well, that's why i used a drill and a vice! lmao! i have a 9' Cat 6 speaker cable i made that i'm giving to the person who buys my power cable stuff. i'll be curious what they think of their sound.
  15. well....i feel dumb.... i just went to the main site and what do i see...... klipsch is selling RB81II's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-ii-bookshelf-speakers?model=rb-81-ii i told the guy, he better get these before they run out!!!!!!!!!!
  16. hey there...again.... i know i asked this question in the past and i had a super amazing deal, buy the guy who is buying all this stuff just couldn't afford them at the time (some bad expenses came up) . and yes....i did scream at him and told him it was a bad mistake! lmao! so anyways, he should be able to buy them now, if someone has them available to sell and are not asking an outlandish price. this dude has less than zero luck with shipping, i mean, he's taking the hit for the ENTIRE team on this one. if they are available and need to ship them, please consider shipping them so a tank can't break them, consider the time, energy, and cost. so, RB-81's, Black, in good condition. thanks....again!
  17. Thaddeus, that was the exact link i was going to post! lol! WVU80, so as you can tell, VhAudio braided his wire, where as i just stuck them in a vice and a drill. i don't know which way is better or really care, it didn't take me that long to build these and they sound better than what i had. i have 2 pics, the one with banana plugs is with the Cat 5 cable, and the unterminated pic is the Cat 6 cable. you put a small piece of heat shrink at the end, divide up pairs, twist them together, and done. i don't know what the price per foot is, because one of the benefits of building with Cat 5, you can get it for free. i personally only need about 125' to build all 3 front speakers (8' for mains, 4' for center). it's really the labor and time that makes having Cat 5/6 cables a pain.
  18. wow, using Linux Mint and reducing the image kicked my butt! lmao! never had too! i'm so use to "Paint" at work. Cable on top: Cat 6, 11awg Cable on bottom: Cat 5, 12 awg the Cat 6 seems to twist better and stay together a little bit better.
  19. InVeNtOr

    DynaPad

    um, yes, but technically no. i am using a .5" aviation anti-vibration pad. it has a retarded strong adhesive and is amazing for dampening vibrations. i put it in my RF-7's instead of the foam. my speakers were mix and match and they did not have matching foam or matching amounts of foam! so, i just took it out and used them to take up the space the foam did and take out all vibrations. i noticed a difference, but i also completely modded my speakers so i can't say for sure what made what better. i did use the same type foam on my horns (.25") and it made those sound so much better. that did make an impactful difference because it took that RF-7 "harsh" sound out. that way i can choose a different capacitor to really highlight clarity. that way i didn't need to use a "warm" capacitor to take that harsh out.
  20. lmao! for you, and only because it's you....i'll take a pic tonight of both of them! lmao!!!!
  21. Hey my fellow speaker tinkers.... so, i finally got off my lazy butt and made my Cat 5/6 speaker cables. i will say i was surprised at the results. don't get too excited though, i was comparing them to Mil Spec wire (12awg, twisted, shielded). the difference between these two were night and day. i am happy to say that even my wife could hear a drastic difference. the volume seemed to be "louder", clarity was through the roof, and even the bass was kicked up. all this could be heard during an HT demo! usually cable upgrades have to be tested through a 2ch A/B to really hear a difference. most of you know this through my "Power Cable Test Kit" post. anyways, i used 4 pairs of twisted Cat 5 pairs to make 1 leg. then i took 4 legs and twisted them into a Star Quad design. so that's 16 pairs or 12awg. i also did the same thing with Cat 6 23awg and that comes to 11awg. i am going to switch out my Cat 5 cables for Cat 6 because of a few OCD reasons. i like the Teflon jacket more, i like how the colors look (over all appearance), all 4 pairs are twisted the same (cat 5 has 2 pairs twisted more tightly). i highly double there is an audible difference, and i won't even do an A/B test. i used a vice and a drill. took about 1 hour to make the cable, comb out the ends, strip them, and install banana plugs. so, much quicker than braiding them! the final design is pretty cool because the 4 legs twisted together open up a touch and make an air gab in the center. i've read that's a good thing, but i don't know the science behind the answer. again, super cheap, easy, quick, and there is a noticeable sound difference between Cat 5/6 and cheaper speaker cables.
  22. ok, this is close to the topic.... if you want the newest TV that has "HDR" you might want to consider this.... you first need that new HDR tv.... then you need a processor that will pass it though....my Emotiva UMC-1 wont, or the UMC200....you need the NEW MC-700...(or AVR, if you are not into separates) then you need an HDR bluray player....the NEW XBox One S is the CHEAPEST at $250, but the OPPO is $550.... finally, you need certified HDR HDMI cables. thankfully Monoprice has them pretty cheap, but the specific cables i bought a few years ago from them, have HDR problems. problems as in, the picture is BLACK! no video out at all! i bought the super cool micro cables that are really flexible and easy to route. i wasn't into HT when HDMI first hit, but this is the whole analog vs hdmi issue when it first came out. people who had thousands vested in their system had to completely start over to get all the hdmi benefits. now, it's the new HDR "upgrade".
  23. my buddy had OG RF7's with OG RC64 and it sounded good. his "upgraded" RC7 pretty much matched the RC64 (although, the RC7 was a touch better). you will be fine pairing them together, but if you hear issues or when the sound effect scans from L-C-R and it sounds "funny" you can do a matching crossover upgrade to correct it or at least make it unnoticeable. most people can't hear those issues anyway, so unless you are "blessed" with amazing hearing, they will sound the same! i have no idea if the grains match. if that's something that will bother you, don't get it because it will drive you nuts! lol!
  24. not to be rude, but dude, you are _________ (insert favorite word) question 1: are the subs placed there because they "have to be" (WAF) or did you do the bass crawl? question 2: is your seat dead center of the TV on that couch? if you would have asked me before you bought anything i would have suggested you not go 7.1. to me, it's better to go with a really good 3.1 than trying to force a 5.1 / 7.1. i have moved from a 7.1 to a 3.1 because my new home just doesn't work for surround sound. i mean, yeah sure, i can get noise to come of the speakers, but i won't be able to turn it good enough to makes that magical bubble of surround sound. your direct speakers (RB41) sound be closer to 90* to your listening position. they can also be slightly behind (if needed) did you check to see if the RS42 speakers sounded better being mounted a little closer together and above the window (angled down)? WAF is very important, so, for the most part are the placement of those speakers centered around that? if so, then none of this matters. place them where you won't get yelled at! lmao! oh, i wanted to have 2 subs a very long time ago. when i did all my research "The Ear" (not sure if he is still on here) basically told me, finding the right place for 1 sub can be hard and finding the placement of 2 subs can almost be impossible! there were a lot of terms and math and diagrams and charts and and and and and....(get the point). basically it comes down to, 1 sub can actually cancel out the other subs wave length. i figured, it was cheaper to have 1 sub, so i went that way....lol. my OCD wanted two subs so the room was "balanced". you will have to find a super good sub guru if you want real help in that area. typically the "normal" livingroom HT the sub is governed by where it CAN go, not where it NEEDS to go. i only had 2 physical options and the bass crawl helped me pic the better option.
  25. +1 for Emotiva. MC-700 is the way to go. my reason, 1, it's Emotiva. 2, it supports HDR if you don't care about the latest and greatest video performance and will truly only use your processor for music, try and find a cheap UMC-1 or UMC200. those both sound the same and i bet the MC-700 will sound similar to both of those. if you really want to get fancy, contact Soniccraft.com, get either of the UMC's, but replace the caps to your taste! the Emotiva amp will have a greater influence over your final sound so if you are nuts enough to change caps, then chance the ones in the amp as well! (or really, just leave them alone!) oh, almost forgot, for $50, get the bluetooth dongle for the mc-700, you can link your phone to your system!
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