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efzauner's Achievements

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  1. well , assuming it is working and you do not want to hack into it the only solution is to get a 12v DC to 120V AC inverter and just plug it in. Of course you will need hefty cabling from the battery. But really this is not a good option. The other option is to open it up and connect wired directly to the woofer and use a normal car sub amp.... However.. your results may not be good. Car subs are much smaller and roll off below because they take advantage of car interior cabin gain. Home subs go much lower. But home subs are not made for the hot cold and humidity and vibration in cars... you may ruin it quickly.. To be perfectly honest, having done lots of car audio, Just look out for used gear and get a proper car sub and amp... Maybe someone wants to swap with your sub. Ed
  2. sorry no I dont.. dont know of similarities with RSW15 Ed
  3. https://www.amazon.ca/Earthquake-Sound-CP8-Subwoofer-Laminate/dp/B005W8NEXA https://www.amazon.com/Theater-Solutions-SUB8SM-Subwoofer-Mahogany/dp/B00CYQ4LOO https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33830 https://www.outdoorsumo.com/best-slim-line-subwoofers/
  4. you may want to check with Ngen... he seems to run a repair service. Try to get it fixed. Keep it original!
  5. WOW. Cool! I have had H1s for almost 20 years and set them against Forte 1, KLF 20s and Tangen 400 and kept the H1 also! There is something special about them!
  6. well start by providing the model number! Are you using it in auto on mode or permanently on?
  7. you have to remove the control panel and the driver that is on the same side. The passive radiator is on the other side. Then you can remove the amp.
  8. I purchased a replacement with an "original philips bulb" on Walmart online for my Sony VLP did the trick, so far so good!
  9. ha! i have the CD version! Not sure if its that old! well. hmm early 80s? yep, that is 40 years old.
  10. @stepher All good points. When I fixed mine, the previous repair already had attempted to make an inductor out of solid wire. I did not know that the original part was made out of litz. Do you know for sure that the switching frequency is 1 MHz? I did not measure it. Could guestimate from the RC of the PWM circuit...
  11. ok thanks just confirming my repair as well. I used solid wire. worked well enough if not perfect. Measured on HP 4800A Vector Impedance meter! What wire gauge did you use? size of coil # of turns etc. Just in case I want to redo mine using litz
  12. Very nice. .what inductor was that? The L302? how did you deduce the inductace value? Schematic? Interesting that yours was melted too. Mine also.. purchased used/defective. Where an fets or diodes blown also?
  13. I understand zobel networks to equalize the woofer impedance.. But the KLF10 does not use one. My basic question is why does the system as is simulate so poorly. The schematic is exactly reproducing the stock crossover and the woofer R and L. E
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