Dman155
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Posts posted by Dman155
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I refer you to the thread at the top of this forum.
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Wrong forum buddy. Once accomplished, though, the bass should tighen up and the mids/highs should become clearer. How much of a change you will see depends on your room and setup so it's hard to know exactly what will happen when you bi-wire.
Oh, and your method for bi-wiring is correct
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160 watts is underpowered? First of all, wattage ratings don't mean as much as you think. Second, how much do you know about electronics? Were you expecting the sub amp to have its own PS and gigantic transformers? Get real, this is a computer setup.
Take a look inside your friends DTT3500's. Oh, and check out his 30 watt sub too.
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Try pluggin the pros into a walkman or cd player of some sort and seeing if that changes anything.
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Do you have any stores around where you can listen to equipment? If so, you should do that. Otherwise, check out the following:
Paradigm PW2200 - 12 inch, 250 watt, high output, 20 Hz extension, roughly $600- $800 (I think)
Velodyne CT-150 - 15 inch, 300 watt, HO, 20 Hz, $700 or so (at circuit city) check out CT-120 also
HSU VTF-2 10 inch, 150 watt, 90 dB@20 Hz, <$500, can be found online
KSW-12/15 - 12/15 inch, 105/265 watts, good output above 30 Hz, $300/$500 online
Also anything from B&W, Missions subs are OK, Boston makes musical stuff (I think), etc etc. Get back to us when you've had a chance to listen to some subs.
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We're gonna need a price range to work with here. Also, what do your listen too? When you say, "What sub works best?", I could recommend a $10000 unit but I'm pretty sure that's not what you meant.
The KSW series is OK. SVS subs are great for movies (apparantly, no one seems to have first hand experience w/svs), velodynes are all pretty good, check out paradigm too.
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I guess I'd have to add weight to the PR's then. I don't think I'm going to do this, but theoretically, that's how I would lower the tuning point right?
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Damn it! I know you guys are right, I just don't want to believe you. Oh well, I'll just save my pennies for an RSW. Thanks for bursting my bubble
.P.S. How do car woofers work in different boxes then?
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I want the tuning to drop lower, like 20 hz or something (is that what you meant spider?). If the driver does get close to bottoming out, it will be producing a much higher spl then it is now (the front driver never moves more then an inch right now and apparantly, its capable of 2 inches).
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I like my LF-10, but as an American, I want more of everything so I want more bass. I was thinking of building a custom enclosure about 2.5 times the size of the LF-10 and using the klipsch driver, passive radiators, and amp. For the array, I want to basically double the height of the LF-10 cabinet, install the passive radiators on the front, and the active driver on the bottom, back with the amp on the top, back.
I arrived at this design by looking at the new RSW series subs with passive radiator in front and active driver in back. Anyway, will increasing the enclosure volume significantly improve bass response? Can anyone give me any pointers?
When/if I do build it, I know all about wood glue, cabinet bracing, and materials so I'm looking for some advanced recommendations. Thanks.
Also, what should I finish it with? I don't really like wooden-looking speakers, I'd rather have a standard black finish. Is there some kind of special paint for this?
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Is that under heavy load or at idle? I think TBirds can handle boiling temps (100 C) not sure though. Go to tweak3d.net and ask or search on the forums there.
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Transient response = speed. This is because to tune a passive radiator system, a wieght has to be built into the radiator. The heavier the weight, the lower the tuning point, but the slower the woofer becomes.
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I have some experience with the KSB (last gen) line of bshelves. I had the 2.1's and 1.1's for surround and I agree with Bobs summery. They are excellent speakers, but the bass thins out at higher volumes.
I have only heard the SB series at a retailer so I can't comment on them much. However, Bob sounds like an honest guy so i would take his word for it. This topic (SB3 vs RB5) has been debated here before and the consensus is that at their respective price points, they are both excellent speakers.
Have you/can you listen to them in your area?
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Don't get too excited. Klipsch tends to over-estimate their subs performance. RSW-15 w/125 dB at 25 Hz? We'll see about that. Of course, with a 30 lb magnet they must be pretty serious. I thought the HGS's were massive with 24 pounders.
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I know RWMIN, so imagine what it would be like without the servo.
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This is my understanding.
Most manufacturers have some sort of anti-clipping circuit to protect the amplifier. Many subs also have over-excursion protection which isn't really necessary in most cases (how many sub amps are capable of driving the driver to maximum excursion before they clip?). Not many subs curb distortion actively. A servo sub does, and it does this by changing the signal the driver sees and it also limits output.
All subs will play distorted at any level, but audible distortion doesn't start to be a problem until its around 10%. I'm just guessing here, but many subs can go up to 15 or even 20? % distortion during bass peaks. With distortion that high, the sound might not fully reflect the source, but its much louder then when distortion is maintained at or below 2.7% (for your velo).
I'm sure velodyne has protected its subs so you can't disable the servo, but if you could, you get a lot more bass.
FYI, I'm pretty sure all velodyne's have the anti-clipping and over excursion protection stuff. The servos are just on their top models.
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Remember, all speakers need to break in.
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I don't know anything about your video cards, but I know about the cpus. What kind of P3 is it? Katmai or coppermine? For the Athlon, is it a TBird?
Until I know that stuff, all I can say is the more burn in time you allow the better. Run 3DMark2000 and Q3A timedemo a few times every time you increase speeds for both cpu and vid card.
Also, do you have temperature moniters for your cpu/mobos? What kind of case/cpu cooling do you have?
What drivers are you using for the tnt? With the D3 drivers, theres a coolbits mod for ocing. Otherwise, for the radeon, keep asking at tweak3d.
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The Radeon competes with the GF2 GTS, not the Ultra. The Ultra's a waste of money anyway. Buy a GF2 Pro. Performance is almost as good as an Ultra, but roughly 150 - 200$ cheaper. Even a 64 MB GTS would be enough. I agree with everyone else, buy a 200 - 250$ card now, use until the NV20 prices come down, then buy one of those.
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Those amps must be rated RMS. The LF's were 500 watts RMS for the 10 and 1000 watts RMS for the 12 so I'm assuming they're gonna use the same technology for the RSW's.
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So even if you only have one phone line to use, you can hook up 2 computers to use the internet? Could you diagram it out? How would all the connections work?
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Save some dough and get a Voodoo3 2000. It should match your systems performance.
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I have a GF2 GTS, it runs OpenGL fine most of the time. Its a mute point anyway, I just got a new comp and I have no problems. Thanks.
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Go with a GF2 Pro. They have 64 MB of DDR for bandwidth, and they cost about 300$. Read some reviews at gamers depot or anand or somewhere, the performance difference between the pro and the ultra is slim.
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Check your wave/direct sound setting
in Personal Music Systems
Posted
It depends on your card. From my experience, the SB Live cards get crackly when wave/direct sound is up too high, but most other cards respond well to having the wave sound maxed.
What I do (I have an SB PCI512) is have the wave/direct sound and master volume in windows maxed. Then I just use the control pod volume knob and it sounds great. Since the pros are never turned up very high from the preamp, hiss isn't a problem and it sounds excellent.