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mark electro

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Posts posted by mark electro

  1. Hi Larry.

    Yea; somtimes I have clairity issues with my descriptions (lol).

    The inputs for tuner tape and aux all are reacting the same. I did not use the phono input.

    The funny thing about it is my anelog sources sound very, very good. And my CD players sound great direct to the amps.

    Only when I hook the CD players up through the pre- amp does it do this. It seems like the pre-amp is trying to drasticly boost the loud passages; like the volume goes way up.

    By the way the pre- amp is a NAD 1020. Is it possable it is too old to handle a CD player?

    I'm baffeled by this occurence.

  2. O.K. let me try to explain my situation a little better.

    When my CD player is hooked to the pre-amp then from pre-amp to amp:

    I play an acustic gutar passage that starts very softly then builds up slowly to a very explosive end.

    Listening toward the end the music the sound seems to get distorted even if I turn the output of the CD player to its neer minimum output.

    According to the specs sheet on the pre- amp; it can handle up to 10 volts input.

    According to the CD player specs; it can put out 2 volts.

    Why would the louder musical passages seem distorted? Could this be a problem with the Pre-amp or just a mismatch of components?

    When I run the CD player straight to the amp every thing sounds excelent.

    When I run a turntable or other analog source through the pre-amp then to the amp every thing sounds excellent.

    This condition only occures when I run the CD player through the pre-amp then to the amp.

    So my question is WHY?

    If anyone could be of any help; I sure would appreciate it.

    Thank you,

    Mark

  3. When I run my turntables, cassette deck, and my FM receiver through my pre-amp the music sounds very detailed and engaging. Normaly I run my cd players on a passive switch bypassing the Pre-amp and direct to the amp.

    The other day I decided to run my cd player through the pre-amp to the amp. The sound was very peaky. In other words the difference between the high volume passages and low volume passages became very drastic and exagerated when listening to a very dynamic passage.

    Is it possable that my cd player and my pre-amp are not matching properly?

    Or would it be more likely that to cd player is showing up a problem with the Pre- that the turntables,decks, and receiver are not able to show?

    Or...................?

  4. OK....the basic question is when using MC or BX, since the metal jacket is tied to ground, isn't that a bigger neutral? Both the neutral and the metal jacket terminate at the mains box and to take it a step furthur, the neutral gets tied into the mains physical ground...which the metal jacket of the run gets bolted into. So basically, when you have metal jacketed runs.....you have more effective gauge as a neutral...the neutral conductor itself, plus the equiv gauge of the mass of the metal jacket....be it MC or BX.

    Different than romax, which relies strickly on the conductor identified as the neutral.

    Speakerfritz,

    What I was origionaly trying to say is the larger neutral will help clean the power to your equipment by helping to clean the sine wave of the distortions created from other loads on the system.

    The steel jacket will not help because it is only 10% as conductive as the copper in the wire. (aluminum is about 65% as conductive. So when you factor the conductivity of the jacketing in effeciency is lost.

  5. BX is no longer to current code, but would probably work as well.

    I had them install "metal clad" (MC) for my audio circuits, in a barely undetectable effort to minimize RFI and EMI in and out of my house wiring for audio. I was told that BX was not used, but MC was a current code substitute.

    What is your understanding? See http://www.afcweb.com/pdfs/afc_cable_catalog/afc_mc_productsummary_0704.pdf

    Thanks --

    MC is current but typicaly does not have a larger neutral.
  6. mark electro

    In your example...did you use romax or bx cabling?

    I'm thinking if one use's BX, they already have a larger neutral....the metal BX jacket...or do you think a thicker neutral while using BX is worth some points?

    Speakerfritz,

    I actually used EMT and pulled stranded wire. The pipe gives a little extra shielding.

    BX is no longer to current code, but would probably work as well.

    The main thing about the thicker neutral; is that, it will rerduce the a/c harmonics. This is the way we set up office spaces that use a lot of computer terminals. Works well for a/v as well.

  7. Hi all.

    I am an electrician as well. My solution was to install a small pannel in the man cave. I put a seperate 20 amp dedicated for each mono amp, 20 amp for the audio sources, and seperate 15 amp for the monitor. 12 guage Hot and ground (grounds bonded in pannel) 10 guage neutral. Larger neuteral does more than you can believe to reduce noise in the circut. Yes a larger neutral on the feeder to the pannel too. My area has moderatly clean voltage, so as of yet; I havent felt the need for an isolation transformer. Your area may be different.

    This has worked very well for me for years. Also doesen't cost an arm and a leg.

    P.S. Keep the vacuum cleaners and hair dryers of your circuts when playing your sterio.

    Mark

  8. Mr. Colter; your just the person I need to talk to about this.

    The paper lable says:

    H II- BR

    8551664

    The binding post cup says:

    sensitivity 1w/1m 94db spl

    50hz- 20khz

    4 ohm

    oh and a pwk logo above the binding posts.

    Also the woofer cone seems to have a nice shine to it, like poly or mica?

    I have never seen a pair of these. Were they a special edition?

    I'm thinking they would be a good match with my Rotel mono blocks.

  9. And again: Thanks Bob.

    I know you are anticipating my next Question(s).

    It looks like any good quality cap is considerably larger; (approx. 1" x 2.5" on ave.), in a 68 uf value. Looks like all four caps together are like trying to stuff 10 pounds of *#@* in a 5 pound bag on the back of a binding post cup.

    Do you have a solution to this?

    I don't know if we are allowed to talk pricing on this site; but maybe you could e-mail me???

    If you can: price for Heresy kit and possably Ct 125 Pair too.

    They are all on my wish list.

    Thanks again,

    Mark

  10. Well I picked up Pretty Hate Machine and The Downward Spiral today. I am pleased and think I like Pretty Hate Machine more. I can definitly make one excellent CD from these two.

    Thanks

    If you like both then you must get the live version: "NIN- and all that could have been".

    One of the reasons I love Klipsch speakers is because they make live recordings sound...well... LIVE!

    Mark

  11. I have read and digested the wealth of information you all have bestowed upon me.

    I happen to have enough back up amps to make tri amplification happen; however, I would have to purchase electronic crossovers and probably quite a lot of test equipment to make this happen.

    While pondering; the voice of reason walked in; (my girlfreind LOL), and said " you have a set of speakers that you only have $300. invested in, so why don't you just restore the crossovers instead of re-engineering an all ready excellent design; at great cost? "

    I think she might be right on this one.

    So for now I am going to stay with passive networks in my heresy's, and dream of the K-horns I will get one day.

    So the way I see it now: Which capacitors should I get and what would the differences be?

    I know Bob Crites uses solens. Many people use Audio Cap Theta PPT's. Yet a lot of others use Hoveland Musicaps.

    So let me start at the Hovelands. I notice they seem to be very robust in build quality. Will the 16ga. braided leads help to lower the ESR even further? Also what sound inprovement could I expect? Will the sound be smoother?

    Now the Audio Cap Theta's: look like they are well built. Will the gold plated leads bennifit me.What can I expect from their sound and smoothness?

    Solens definatly the best value; but it seems a lot of people don't care for them. Why? And I guess the next question would be: Will they approach the sound quality of the OEM Aerovox, paper in oil, capacitors?

    Will the Audio Cap's or the Hoveland's meet or beat the quality of the of the OEM caps?

    Maybe some of you have some experience with this delema I now face?

    I would like to restore my speakers to OEM or a bit better; on a buget.

  12. Thank you Larry. I think my file size might be the problem. I'm still learning how to move pictures around the computer. Now I'll have to figure out how to change the file size.

    Mark

  13. Is the avatar the little picture that comes up over the joined date and number of posts?

    If that is the avatar; how do I bring a picture from windows album, in?

    I would like to set up my info and its starting to frustrate me!

    Can any of you all help straighten me out?

    Thanks,

    Mark

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