ACV92
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Posts posted by ACV92
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@Schu - Well, looking at your build I can say that you've compensated for that. Mine was when my Dad rocked his old Marantz setup when I was little. The receiver had the blue hue on the display, dual meters, and had Marantz speakers. The grill's on the speakers had a foam, waffle iron, look to them. I couldn't being to tell you what the model numbers were. He would crank E, L, P, "Lucky Man" and make sure to point out when the synthesizer worked from L to R. "See, you can hear it moving back-and-forth", he would say. Ever since then I've been hooked.
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Sorry, should have been Audiophilia. My mistake.
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So, I've been in a couple of other threads and they exposed where I got the quest for accurate sound reproduction. What did it for you? Take a trip down memory lane and tell me where it all began. Thanks.
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@TigermanTouche, you were way more accomplished than I ever got. Yeah, did the Junior Lilac parade where I'm at. Literally, half of my Junior High was in it. Honestly, it was a blast. I can still here "Louie, Louie" in my head. I remember a performance at the high school that I eventually went to. One of my valves was stuck on the Sousa, couldn't play the notes. Tried fixing it during the performance but to no avail. It really sucked, I wanted to blast the auditorium.
I switched to sports in high school Baseball and Football. But, I would always listen to the band when they came in during football games. Who was hitting and who was missing. I loved it when they were tight.
I still remember in 5th grade when I got a brand new Tuba. Gorgeous instrument, I kept her polished and clean. Nothing like walking home with that little monster in it's case. The early overall exposure to live horns, strings, vocals, has created the audio junkie that I am now. I just wished that I had the dough to build what I want. I'm creeping, but I'll get there.
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You had to be able to bounce your lips off of the mouthpiece too, to get the right sound. So, jimjimbo what are you really saying? No, don't answer that.
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How many of you can say that you were a Tuba/Sousaphone guy back in the day? 5 - 7th grade I rolled those 2. You know, fat kid, find the biggest instrument to make you look smaller! My folks loved it when I practiced. Maybe where I got some of my love for the low tones. I love Piano and strings though. My Mom used to play Piano and there aren't too many songs that have a solid Piano back that I don't like.
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Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance.
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Good man. I believe in the 5 P's.
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Do you have a backup plan?
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Srinath - I'll be right over. jimjimbo says I need to expand my horizons.
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I'm too simple. Coors Light flavored water for me. Zeppelin is on in the background. My Dad sucked me into the good stuff. The Doors, Emerson, Lake, & Palmer, Rolling Stones, Jimmy, etc. Thinking about it, I could hear a few bars from Janis right about now. I listen to about anything except rap and country. Sorry if I offended anyone. Cheers.
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wvu80 - Mighty gracious of you. I should know Monday AM. If they don't get them in I'll definitely shoot you a PM. Most all of the hardware stores carry only 3 prong, with 4 prong available for order. Fasteners/Fastenal was the same. Again, thanks for the offer.
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Thanks wvu80. I did find the info in the Q & A section for the Umax 15 kit on PE. So, I emailed them and asked them to add box to my order.
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What size t-nuts and bolts would you recommend for mounting the Umax 15?
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RoboKlipsch - I've been looking into the software/mic and I know this is the best way to go. With the test tones that I ran on the sub-in-a-box, little SVS SB12-NSD, there were some definite dips and peaks in the bandwidth with no way to correct it. That's why I went with the 3000DSP.
Thanks for the link. I'll use the PL on the flat pack. I'm planning on taking my time with this. So, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, painting, clear. I should be working on the enclosure now but nooooo, I'm fixing the washing machine. Yeah for me.
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3 hours ago, RoboKlipsch said:
Umik from amazon and fill for the sub are 2 things to consider. Umik at 80 or 100 may seem pricey but will be the best money u spend. Using spl meter works fine but is longer process.
Good luck you will have awesome bass when done. Peq is very ez as is other setup. It is all based on measurements u take to make the response flatter.
What avr are u using?
I plan on getting the Umik when I can. My AVR is an old Yamaha RX-V590. The LP output is actually 3.5v, as it says in the manual. It needs to replaced. One step at a time...
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The Umax 15 kit is here! The panels are out inside reaching ambient temp so that I can begin construction tomorrow. I've ordered the 3000DSP and connectors, wire, which will be here soon. I can't wait until it's done. It will be a few weeks before complete, the temperatures outside are not favorable, and I will post a pic of the finished product. I'm going to try an XLR to RCA cable between the 3000 and receiver for now. It's an old, cheapy Yamaha unit that shows 3v on the LP out. If the gain is too high on the 3000, or I get a hum, I'll move to a CLEANbox pro.
I'll need your help setting up the 3000. I presume PEQ is the way to go? I'm still studying. Release and attack, peak limiter, etc. I won't have a mic and software to run wavelength graphs. So, I'll be relying on my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter and some test tones to, as best I can, identify the peaks and valleys. I'll set dB increases/decreases in Hz gingerly. What is a good SPL to run test tones? Is 75 -80 dB a good starting point?
Anyway, I blame you guys for this trek. I was just going to buy an in the box powered sub. I did, tried it, and quickly sold it on ebay. Mainly, because of the performance to cost factor you all keep alluding to. I remeasured my room and it's just over 4900 cu. ft. I'm thinking this should fit the bill. Considering I was using a 22 year old Klipsch SW-10. I feel like a kid in a candy store. I'm going to have questions coming up.
The forum members here have been nothing but gracious and accommodating. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. And yes, you've sucked me in to the abyss of which I already wanted to go... Talk to you soon. Thanks, Aaron.
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Don't spend $500 on a cable. As the others have said Monoprice, Parts Express. It's where I've been buying my cables.
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Will do. Thanks for the advice.
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2 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:
Outstanding work Carl. I don't know of any sub maker than can do a better job. I wish you were closer, my friend.
I would certainly take advantage of you skills!
No kidding!!! That's looks awesome. If mine, Umax 15 flat pack, comes out half that good I'd be ecstatic.
Roboklipsch - I had typed body shop in before, I work in the automotive field, but I thought I'd sound like an idiot. Who takes a sub cabinet to a body shop? I thought that a cabinet shop might have more tricks working with wood since they paint/stain cabinets and all. I'm going to have to go talk to some guys I know.....
Question for all. Are there any problems with painting the subwoofer mounting area, where the seal would ride? I was planning on tracing a line around the basket and painting only to that point. I don't know why it would matter either way, I guess. Thoughts are appreciated.
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There's a ton of articles online regarding second, third, or fourth subs. Some members here have eight of them in a room. If your not into EQ'ing, figuring out room modes, cancellation effects, etc., a general consensus in the material that I've read, says that adding a second sub of the same type is the safest/easiest method to get the best sound. A second powered sub of the same type will yield a 3 - 4 db gain if set apart from each other, like in the front corners of your room, or 6 db gain if you stack one on top of the other.
Adding a second sub will help to fill deficiencies in room acoustics that hinder a single sub source. So, I would buy another sub of the same type for the easiest transition. I'm definitely not the most educated person on this forum as I'm sure others will chime in and help.
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That's funny, nice spin. So, if Pareto has the 80/20 rule, shall we create the derrickdj1 rule of 90/10? 90% of the problems are caused by 10% of the listening habits. It would become a fundamental rule of audiophilia. A beginners look into the abyss. Touching on theory of wives, gain, neighbors, and how to respond after the 10% takes place. Now, when you crack the foundation we may have to adjust the percentages.....
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Glad your feeling better. Do you rattle can your cabinets? More than likely I'm going this route. A little sanding, prime, paint with semi-gloss black, and clear. I'm still considering taking it to a cabinet shop and seeing what they would charge to put on a better paint job. Probably cost a small chunk.
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Ah, you were one of the ones he mentioned earlier. How'd it sound? I presume pretty good.
I would certainly take advantage of you skills!
installing Klipsch R-5650-S II In-Wall Speaker using dynama
in Architectural
Posted
I was looking at that kit when I installed mine in our small HT setup in the basement. Unfortunately, it didn't go quite as I had planned. Both holes I cut in the walls where I wanted them were blocked, one with a horizontal board, the other with ducting. So, I used some 3/4" MDF and built partial boxes for them, with the rear open considering they are supposed to be more of a 'free air' design. There is insulation behind them so it kind of encloses them.
I cut the drywall to 1/2 way in on the studs, so I could put a couple of screws in the drywall where I had cut it. I measured the holes, depth needed, built the boxes, secured them to wall/framing utilizing some L brackets and some Liquid Nails. Then, for moisture protection, one is on an exterior wall, I used Kilz to paint the inside of the enclosures. I added a small amount of polyfil in the enclosure to help with any resonances. Next I used tape, mud, and my texture gun to finish the boxes before I painted the room. Anyway, I've attached show pics in the next couple posts. I call it a 'reverse french' installation.
So, if you don't have obstructions, you could use 1/2" MDF to build a panel that spans to the studs with an enclosure attached behind it that fits between the studs. 1/2" considering the usual thickness of drywall. I was going to do this originally but had to go the other way. The other reason I did this was due to the fact that I didn't want any vibrations from the drywall and a better resonance from the MDF. Hope this helps.