superedge88

Turns out all I had to dois go to the menu on the denon and set it to auto. I can see it switching to DTS or stay on Dolby Pro Logi II, thanks for the help guys!

I checked the DVD I am playing, checked the DVD player output, now I will mess with the receiver to make sure it is set to "Auto" Thanks guys for all your help, I really appreciate it!

Is there a setting that I have to change to turn on the automatic switching, will my Denon tell me on its display that it is in DTS mode instead of standard Pro Logic II ?

I have been usually using the DTS Neo surround sound mode on my Denon receiver, what is your favorite mode and why?

Well the only reason I got this receiver is because it was a smoking deal, I got it for less than half of what it retails for. I can always upgrade the sub, so no worries there. I guess I will try turning up the receiver a little past 0, might explore the volume up to the +10 range. Thanks for the input guys! I love my Klipsch fronts and centers, matched with the Denon I love the sound quality!

Ok, so you're saying not to worry about pushing the receiver a little further towards the 18db level? I did run the automatic set up with the Denon Mic.

Denon is pretty reliable on ratings, so I assume that the ratings of 100 watts per channel is correct. I don't have room for larger speakers really. I believe that the biggest problem I am up against is the fact that my house is an "open floor plan" So I have a very large main room that connects seemlessly with a large kitchen, and then shares the same air space as my open stairway area leading up to my 2nd level, as well as the dining room. Couple that large room issue with mostly carpet and huge sectional couch in the same room as the home theater, I think that the system needs more juice to overcome some of these factors. I just looked it up as well, my receiver doesn't have preouts, so am I screwed, or can I just get a good set of line level converters? Or do some amplifiers have line level inputs? Guide me oh experienced ones!

any recommendations for a seperate amp?

So I would like some more volume out of my home theater, not needing a ton more, but would like to have just a little more umph. I find myself pushing the volume around 0 on my Denon receiver and I don't believe I should be pushing it that far for fear of pushing distortion. My receiver is rated at 100 watts a channel. I am wondering if there is a cost effective option out there for getting some more power to my speakers without becoming ubalanced. Am I correct in my assumption in that if I get a 2 channel Kennwood amp for my main speakers that I will throw off balanced surround sound? I guess I am just exploring the "MORE POWER" options and seeing if it is something I can afford. Thanks for guiding a newbie!

Ok, those were helpful articles! So it sounds like I MAY hear a difference when biamping, but it may not really be enough to make it worth buying the speaker wire to do it.

I thought that the Denon actually used it's multi zone amplifier so this was considered biamping?

I have the Denon 2308, with RF5 mains and RC3 center, no rear surrounds. I am currently unable to put rears on this system, and I would love to get a little extra headroom. Can anyone give me any pointers on using the biamp option on my Denon? Did you hear any audible difference? Can you biamp the center channel as well or is it just the main speakers? If you can only biamp the main speakers then when the Audyssey auto matching happens does it just increase volume to the center channel to match the biamped main speakers? Thanks for any specific info, I tried to find information doing google searches, but all I got was generic info on biamping and not much specific information on biamping with the onboard Denon amplifiers and how Audyssey matches the speakers when biamped. I know I would get better results using a seperate amplifier to work in a biamping configuration, but for now I am just not ready to throw that kind of money into my setup with my car in the shop and costing me $$$$.

I really do appreciate letting me know multiple options, keep them coming if you think of more. Thanks!

Thanks for the response, I know my budget is small, but I knew that someone could recommend something at least close to what I was looking for. I will look into the components you recommended. Thank you EAR!

I'd like to build my own subwoofer, I love to tinker, so I thought this would be a fun subject. A lot of the kits that I find in google searches are old kits that are not offered anymore. I am looking to spend less than $300 (not including the wood for the box) Is there an advantage to building my own powered subwoofer? Can I actually come out ahead in the end and have a better sounding subwoofer than if I had spent the same amount of money buying a prebuilt one? I am not a highly skilled wood worker, so if it is much more than building a simple box then I am screwed (don't have many tools) For reference I have a Klipsch SUB-10 right now and would be wanting a subwoofer that is more powerful and accurate than that.

I've had Uverse for about a year and a half now, I know what you mean about not passing the test on the menu to feed 1080i. The trick is to run the test and quickly accept it when it blinks the accept screen briefly (at least that's how I had to do it) If you can't get it to accept, then call your service tech. The uverse customer service sucks, but it is still a pretty good product. The problems with the service have diminished a little, I just wish that they would upgrade their DVRs, it is so very primitive compared to all the bells and whistles on my parents Dish network DVR.

sounds like I will just keep beating up the CVs, they have served me well for years, and I may as well just keep driving them into the ground. The CVs will be a good boomy rec room speaker set, I'll keep the high end stuff for the home theaters. Thanks for the guidance guys!

I don't know if this is a really stupid idea, but the thought crossed my mind so I thought I would throw this idea to the experts. I have Cerwin Vega RE 30 speakers http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.audioreview.com/channels/audioreview/images/products/product_120897.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.audioreview.com/mfr/cerwin-vega/floorstanding-speakers/MPL_175_1594CRX.ASPX&h=175&w=175&sz=4&hl=en&start=4&um=1&usg=__D2_E7OFk32CL7FUXZYzUixWpxQ4=&tbnid=Z8sUyiLvt2nnhM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=100&prev=/images%3Fq%3DCerwin%2BVega%2BRE%2B30%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN The first thing that seems lacking is the tweeter, would it be worth it for me to replace the tweeter with a klipsch horn tweeter? Would I need to change out the speaker's crossover if I did this? If I wanted to change out all the drivers to klipsh, what would get me the great efficient klipsch sound without breaking the bank? Would it be best to seal the main woofer from the rest of the drivers and seal the ports to get more accurate sound? Should I just go fly a kite and leave well enough alone?

I guess I'll just have to post updates over the years, can't believe that facts didn't convince you - temps simply won't be high enought to do harm.

You're probably right, my hand probably caught fire when I had it near my neighbors fireplace, I am just too dumb to figure it out. You've ignored all my points, that it is a simple fact that my hand would be burned so very badly had the area above my neighbors fireplace gotten ANYWHERE near 350 degrees, care to address that simple fact? If you go to this website http://www.burnsurgery.org/Modules/prevention/gasfireplace/sec1.htm you can see that the number recorded on THE GLASS FRONT (mere inches for the gas flame) of a gas fireplace were somewhere just above 350 degrees, so with any sort of common sense you can surmise that it would be impossible to have temps hot enough to burn anything at the location of the center channel and by my calculations would be no more than the temperatures that are easily handled by speakers of much less build quality that you find in the car audio market. You can choose to deny this information as valid, that's fine, just seems wrong for you to mislead others. When I get my gas hooked up do you want me to shoot a video for you showing the speaker NOT on fire? Would that satisfy you? Again, if it was such a danger to have wood near the opening of this fireplace, then there would not be a wood mantel. If you want to argue this point, at least bring evidence based on fact. By the way, my hand is still not on fire.

You're kidding right? If it was so very hot, then my wood mantel would be in danger of burning. Just for kicks I asked my neighbor to turn on his gas stove for me to test with my hand ( he has the same fireplace as I do). The same area where my Center channel is mounted I could put my hand their comfortably. If the center channel was reaching temperatures close to burning I wouldn't be able to even get close with my hand at all, do you know how hot anywhere near 350 degrees F is? C'mon let's use some common sense here. Let it go. Thank you.

If the area that the speaker is on is anywhere near ~350 (which is the temperature that wood generally burns at) then I got major issues, the fireplace is gas, and is not even hooked up for use anyway (as you can see in the pic, not even any fake logs in the fireplace). Even if we do get the gas hooked up for use, we will only use if for show and not to actually try and heat the room. No worries.

My center channel is a long time out of warranty, so I had nothing to lose, it looks great!

I chewed a whole bag of big league chew and used it as an adhesive to stick the speaker under the mantel. lol I I took the tweeter out of the speaker and drilled three screws up through the inside of the speaker into the mantel. Worked like a charm, looks as if the speaker is just floating their to anyone that looks at it. The screws had to go in at an angle, but it worked perfectly.

not a bad idea, might make me want surround sound even more than I alreadydo though!![] oh well, always wanting more.