DEC

I also found 2.5-amp/250-volt 5x20mm slow-blow fuses at Vetco Electronics. They come 5 to a pack and their part number is 2-5amp5x20mm. The link is: http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1008

OK, thanks. I was really asking this question more out of ignorance (or "blind logic"), but with the 1-watt resistor recommendation you got from stpeteshepherd and the fact that you have done the work with success is more than good enough for me at this point. However, if you don't mind, I would like to ask you some more questions as I am not much of an electronics kind of guy. 1) Beyond replacing resistor R120/J113 and resistor R107/Q106 with 1-watt 82 ohm resistors, it sounds like you have replaced more than just these two 1/4-watt resistors in the ProMedia 2.1 sub (since you mentioned 20 resistors). Is this the case, or did you just replace the same two resistors for other 2.1 subs? 2) While I am mechanically inclined and have several soldering guns (including a couple of variable temp pencil type stations), I have never done any desoldering/soldering on a circuit board. Can you help me a bit on technique? For example, here is what another more experienced person recently suggested to me: "Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of your soldering iron and then touch it to the resistor you are trying to remove while pulling on it lightly with a pair of pliers until the solder melts and it frees the resistor. As soon as the resistor comes out, blow on the board to help cool it of since you don't want to burn anything nearby to where you were soldering. A can of compressed air works well for this. A lower tempurature soldering iron works well (450-480 degrees) but regular higher temperature irons can be used, just be carefull not to burn the board". Would you add (or suggest anything different) to all of that? Also, what are you specifically referring to in terms of "respraying silicone on the area"? What are you using and what does that process accomplish? (And I will definitely get some #1 wicking ribbon). 3) In terms of the new resistors, from pics I have seen on-line, they will probably have rather long leads on each end. Do you snip these off to about the right length before soldering them into the board, or do you solder them in and then snip off the excess from the back side? (No doubt a dumb question). 4) Finally, I have several types of solder, but I often use Radio Shack .062 diameter lead-free silver-bearing solder. Is that a good choice for this job, or should I be using something else? Thanks in advance for further helping out a "circuit board newbie". Don

OK, here's a pretty big update on my ProMedia 2.1 subwoofer sound output woes. I finally opened up my sub cabinet and got an up close & personal look at the innards yesterday. First off, I found the two internal fuses (2.5-amp/250-volt) and did a continuity check on those and they were in good shape. Then, due to the several other threads in the forum describing no/low volume coming out of the subwoofer as a function of fried resistors, I took a very close look at the 6 internal board assemblies looking for any obvious damage. Sure enough, resistor R120/J113 was partially burned on one of its ends (although the slight damage to mine was far less than others have suffered with their R120/J113 resistors) : This is exactly the same resistor that others have reported fried along with little or no sound coming out of their 2.1 subs. On another related thread: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/132217.aspx ("Promedia 2.1 extremely low volume"), Zortrium identified this as a 1/4-watt, 82 ohm, 5% tolerance resistor from a schematic. However, when I called Klipsch tech support earlier today, they said they had no publically available schematics for the ProMedia 2.1 sub/amp assembly. In a follow-up exchange in Zortrium's original thread later today, he was good enough to provide a link to a complete set of the ProMedia 2.1 schematics from Dale Thompson. I posted up the link and schematic diagrams in a new thread: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/137146.aspx ("Full Set of Schematic Diagrams for ProMedia 2.1 System!"). The specific diagram for the circuit board and damaged resistor in question is: Anyway, I did an in-situ resistance check of the slightly damaged resistor R120/J113 and it read out as 80.4 ohms. Then for a comparison, I did a resistance check of the adjacent undamaged resistor R107/Q106 (which is the same rated resistor as the damaged one), and it read out as 81.2 ohms. Let me say here that I am no electronics guy, but I was surprised at how close the two readings were. So here's a question for those more experienced in such things ... do those close resistance readings imply that slightly damaged resistor R120/J113 is not in that bad a shape, or is this a case where even a small drop-off in relative resistance potentially causes deliterious electronic effects & issues? In other words, does 80.4 ohms versus 81.2 ohms for 82 ohm nominally-rated resistors fall into the category of acceptable statistical variation for such a resistor type? If the latter, it makes me wonder if going to the trouble of replacing the "bad" resistor is going to gain me anything if it is in fact operating within the range of its tolerance. Does anyone have any comments on this?Then on another related thread: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/126402.aspx ("ProMedia 2.1 fried resistor - I think"), razzz42 suggests going with replacement 1-watt 82 ohm resistors for both R120/J113 as well as the adjacent R107/Q106 resistor (which he reportedly did with good results in terms of getting full volume back from his subwoofer). I get what razzz42 is suggesting, but is it really OK to move up from a 1/4 watt to a full watt on those two resistors? Would it perhaps be better to split the difference and just go up to 1/2 watt instead? Does anyone care to weigh in on this one? Finally, when I was talking with the tech support rep from Klipsch earlier, he said I could purchase a replacement board for $78.98 (P/N 118557) if my repair job did not end up working (which would sure beat buying a new subwoofer unit or entire ProMedia 2.1 system). I have to order the resistor(s), but once they get here, I hope I can bring my sub back to life as others have successfully accomplished. I will report back as to what happens. Don

Many thanks to Zortrium for the link to these schematic diagrams (which, by the way, are not offered by Klipsch). The link is: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/2-1/2-1_bash_amp.htm And here are the various schematics (courtesy of Dale Thompson; copyright protected): Block diagram of Klipsch Promedia 2.1 System: Interconnect diagram of Klipsch Promedia 2.1: Schematic diagram of Control Pod: 2.1 DIN Plug Wiring Diagram: Schematic diagram of I/O Board: Schematic diagram of HF (Satellite) Amplifier Board: Schematic diagram of LF (Subwoofer) Amplifier Board: Schematic diagram of Power Supply: Don

Thanks much Zortrium ... the schematics for the 2.1 are perfect! In terms of doing the actual work, I think I will attempt to remove the larger board so I can have some additional elbow room. And while I am no electronics expert, I believe you need to (or at least should) replace both R120 & R107 with the higher wattage 82 ohm resistors. Maybe just replacing one wouldn't cause an issue, but I don't want to be the one to find out that was a mistake (especially since razzz42 replaced both with 1-watt versions and had good results). In my case, I think I will just move up to 1/2-watt 82 ohm resistors. Thanks again, Don

Zortrium, I called Klipsch today and they said they don't have any publically available schematics or electrical diagrams for the ProMedia 2.1 subwoofer (and they could not positvely identify the R120/J113 resistor for me). Just curious, but how did you get a schematic? Beyond that, I can probably confirm the resistor value by way of the white body with gold/black/red/gray stripes. I also assume you removed the larger board in question to remove the bad resistor and solder in the new one. How did that go and did you get your volume back from the sub? Also, on another related thread: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/126402.aspx ("ProMedia 2.1 fried resistor - I think"), razzz42 suggests going with replacement 1-watt 82 ohm resistors for both R120/J113 as well as the adjacent R107/Q106 resistor (which he reportedly did with good results). What are your thoughts on this? Thanks, Don

I've got the same exact problem with the same resistor. I get what you're suggesting, but is it really OK to move up from a 1/4 watt to a full watt on those two resistors? Would it perhaps be better to split the difference and just go up to 1/2 watt instead?

Yep ... no problem on taking off the back plate on the subwoofer. I just did so to mine yesterday. Once you turn it off and get everything unplugged, just unscrew the 8 screws on the outer perimeter of the plate. You can then lift out the boards/transformer assembly (it's a bit heavy), unhook the two speaker terminal/wires, and you can then get a close look at the innards. Subwoofer fuse information is in my thread: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/137124/1389388.aspx#1389388 ("Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About ProMedia 2.1 Subwoofer Fuses"). You might also want to take a look at my other thread: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/137019.aspx ("Extremely Low Volume from ProMedia 2.1 Sub???"). Good luck, Don

I called Klipsch tech support and they gave me a source for the 2.5-amp 5x20mm fuses. The place is BG Micro and their link is http://www.bgmicro.com/search.aspx?find=2.5+amp+fuses There are 4 different part numbers for these slow-blow 2.5-amp 5x20mm fuses (all in a pack of 10), so if you need any, you may need to call BG Micro first to make sure you're getting the right ones.

People have mentioned these fuses before, but I never knew where they were specifically located or what types they were. With the problems I currently have with very little sound coming out of my ProMedia 2.1 sub, I finally opened it up yesterday. There are two internal fuses and here is a pic of them: They are not the same as the external fuse on the outside rear of the ProMedia 2.1 sub (which by the way, is a 2.0-amp/250-volt 5x20mm slow-blow glass fuse ... Radio Shack part number 270-1064). The two internal fuses are both 2.5-amp/250-volt 5x20mm glass fuses. The interesting thing here is that I can't find any source on-line for the internal 2.5-amp fuses (and Radio Shack doesn't carry them either). I can find plenty of 2.0-amp and 3.0-amp fuses that are 5x20mm (basically 3/4" long "shorty" fuses), but no 2.5-amp 5x20mm fuses, so I don't know where the heck you would get these from. Luckily, I did a continuity check of both of mine and they tested out OK. Don

Nope ... it sure wouldn't

I'm very sorry to hear about your loss Michael. My wife and I are very attached to our two cats (brother & sister) and while we have been successful so far over the last 9 years in keeping them alive in an area chock full of coyotes, I have had a general fear of feeling a "bump" as I move our cars around only to find one of our cats having met their demise at my hand ... so I can relate to your circumstances. Your pain will pass over time, but I do sympathize. Don Spencer & Chewy:

Bill, I appreciate the suggestion, however, if you will note in my original post, I already sent in my control pod to Adam Costa (aka "Mr. Clean") and he gave that a clean bill of health (and I had already made him aware of my subwoofer problems). Moreover, it has been my impression that while Mr. Clean has done a lot of work with ProMedia control pod DIN plugs and premium speaker wires, he doesn't do much in the way of supporting the subwoofer part of ProMedia systems. I am also aware that Mr. Clean is contemplating the closing down of his repair business due to increased demands on his time from his main job and family commitments. Don

Anyone?

Zortrium ... did you ever get your sub working again after replacing the fried resistor?

Anything new on this? (I have the same problem, only Mr. Clean gave my control pod DIN plug a clean bill of health).

A few weeks ago, I moved one of my ProMedia 2.1 set-ups from my Dell computer to my wife's new iMac in another room. When I got it hooked back up, I got good sound from the right & left satellite speakers, the green light was on the right speaker control pod, but I was getting no sound from the sub. Mr. Clean had previously replaced the DIN plug on the control pod back in 2008, and up to the time I moved the set-up, everything was working just fine. I checked the fuse on the back of the sub and it visually looked OK, so I thought the DIN plug repair had gone bad. I sent it back to Mr. Clean, but after he checked it, he gave it a clean bill of health. While waiting to get the control pod back, I checked the sub fuse with a voltmeter, and despite it looking OK, it was bad, so I thought I had found the problem. I got the control pod back, put a new fuse in the sub, and turned the system on yesterday, but I was still not getting any sound out of my sub. I then went on YouTube and played several bass testing videos. What I found on the heaviest/loudest bass passages, was that the sub was in fact moving air and putting out some low-level sound, but only when I had the sub volume level control potentiometer cranked to maximum. However, on "normal" recordings with "standard" bass passages, no noticeable sound was coming out of the sub even with the sub volume level control potentiometer cranked to maximum. What's next?? I have previously heard that there are other fuses inside the sub unit, but I don't know where they are, what type they are, or if they are even the problem. Can anyone give me some pointers on this before I mess with the innards of the sub? Beyond that, does anyone know if there is there anyone out there who can trouble-shoot & repair a ProMedia 2.1 sub like Mr. Clean does for the control pod DIN plug? (I am mechanically inclined, but I am not much of an electronics guy). I really love the ProMedia 2.1 set-up, but between the control pod DIN plug issues and issues with the sub, it does seem like this computer speaker system definitely has its problems. In any regard, if anyone has some insight or suggestions on my sub problem, I would sure appreciate hearing from them. Thanks, Don

Vaiotrekin, I just sent you a PM with Mister_Clean's contact information. Good luck, Don

OK ... then you are yet another victim of the infamous DIN plug issue. There are some solutions for this which are reflected in many threads & posts on the forum. In my case, I had Mister_Clean replace my DIN plug with a beefier version that is guaranteed to not go south on you again.

Are you are talking about the plug/jack on the back of the right speaker module or the infamous DIN plug going into the back of the subwoofer unit?

Rick, Mr_Clean should really be the one to more expertly reply to your questions. My understanding is that the stock DIN plug is of an inferior design and is typically prone to mechanical failure (especially if it gets pushed up against a wall or other object, or perhaps gets manhandled a bit too much). Again, Mr_Clean can no doubt explain this better than I can, but he does not just put the same DIN plug on. He puts a new DIN plug on in a manner that will likely give no further problems and backs it up with an iron-clad guarantee. I could tell by just looking at the finished product and then plugging it in that this was a much more substantial plug that had a real reinforced look and feel to it. Again, I do not have any affiliation with Mr_Clean other than taking advantage of his services. And as I mentioned on another thread, I also have a second set of Pro Media 2.1's on another computer and when (not if) those start acting up, I won't hesitate to get Mr_Clean to fix the DIN plug on them as well. Don

germ813, I know the issue with the crappy DIN plugs is frustrating, and why Klipsch has not more proactively dealt with this recurring problem is beyond me. However, the Pro Media 2.1's are awesome speakers which I believe blow most other similar speakers right off the map when they are working. I don't own stock in Mr_Clean's business, but he took care of my DIN issue in short order and I am convinced that I won't have that problem again for the life of the speakers. I also have a second set of Pro Media 2.1's on another computer and when (not if) those start acting up, I won't hesitate to get Mr_Clean to fix the DIN plug on them as well. Don't let Klipsch's handling of this turn you off to some really fine speakers. Don

It's no doubt the infamous DIN plug (we've all been there, done that). Contact Mr_Clean and get it taken care of in short order.

I completely agree and pretty much stated the same thing in the "Help!!! ProMedia 2.1 Right Channel Does Not Work" thread. I love my two sets of ProMedia 2.1 speakers, but when Klipsch won't even admit that this issue is in the realm of a prevailing, recurrent, or known problem, it reflects poorly on the company and its customer support stance.

Keep in mind that the pins in my damaged and malfunctioning DIN plug were also perfectly straight. In my case, the issue was with the outer plastic housing versus the inner metal collar. The problem with buying another new control pod or DIN plug/cable is that you will no doubt end up with the same inferior and damage prone DIN plug that Klipsch has strangely continued to go with. Take my advice and have it repaired/replaced by Mister_Clean and you will have no further problems. (And I am in no way affiliated with Mister_Clean other than having him recently fix my bad DIN plug).