HRDROKN

Well I made the purchase... Dared MC-7P and will be doing some tube rolling to get her right. This morning I replaced all four KLF woofers and completed my biamping.... Crites running the MF/HF and I'm liking what I'm hearing!

Point well taken! It has been recommended that a Sunfire IV pre will open up a whole new experience... finding one in mint condition is another matter! And honestly... I don't need all the Sunfire bells and whistles as I'm just a two channel enthusiast.

I'm in the market for a new pre... (replacing my Carver CT28v) I've been looking for a Sunfire TGP III or IV, but in my search I have came across some other interesting pieces. So I'm looking at this Dared MC-7P tube pre and was wondering if anyone had some input? I have the KLF 30's (Crites x-overs, mids and tweats) powered with a modified TFM-35x that will soon be replaced with a pair of Silver 7t's. Thanks!

I feel your pain.... I recently moved into a new house and have had a heck of a time getting my KLF-30"s to sound right!. I don't us any EQ and run my pre flat except that I find that I like the loudness on, which adds +5dB @ 100Hz? My bass sounds tight and punchy with this setting, but in an effort to get off the loudness crutch (using other built in pre-amp effects) I get a "droan" in the lower frequencies. Then.... I installed the Crites cross overs and really liked the change in the mids and highs and not so much in the lows, but I also made a basic mistake by doing two mods at one time..... While I was installing the cross overs, I dynamat'd the lower part of the cabinet thinking that it would help the low end and maybe solve the droan. The result is that the low frequency is even more sensitive to this droan and I don't know if it is crossover or dampening material related. Worst part is that neither one is easy to remove to troubleshoot the problem. I think that I can eliminates the dynamat by installing some thin acoustic foam over the dynamat to kill any reflections.So I will be adding the foam in the near future to see if I can get a positive result. Also in line will be the addition of a sonic maximizer (BBE 2002R) as I have heard good things with this add. I have also ordered a Marchand cross over (@825Hz) with a notch filter @ 3KHz (Grundy effect... thanks Rich), which I hope will solve some of what seems to be inherent with horns, the forward mids... especially at high volume levels! The ironic thing is that at those high levels is when the bass finally comes into it's own, so I hope the notch filter works out. Of course this means that I will be bi-amping the system which creates more than one change to the system again! One other variable… this new house has a sub-floor foundation and all my other stereo rooms had concrete foundations… Hmmmm.

Hey JC, If those KLF-20's are anything like (or better) than the 30's... they will be a great pair for pounding on! I have to say that I have owned these 30's for 10 years now and have beat (abused) on these speakers regularly! The only problems that I have had, was a burnt tweeter... looked like the coil was slightly misaligned and was rubbing the structure. Then recently I was adding some dampening material to the backs of the K-703 horns and noticed that the structure was cracked where the driver screw in. The K-703 replacements had an aluminum insert for the driver mount, so I don't expect this to be a problem again. m

Ya, It really is a shame to hide these things in the cabinet..... they are very nice to look at! m

So for a little recap.... I'm running a CT28v with either a TFM-35x.2 or M1.0t MKII.2 (both are modified amps) to my Klipsch KLF-30's. Of the two amps it is my feeling (hearing) that tells me I like the sound of the M1.0t a little better overall. My biggest complaint if you will, has been my speakers. They have been anything from a bit forward to somewhat grainy and annoying. I have been messing around with different DSP (hall) effects, but that has caused other problems such as the "droan" I spoke of in another thread. Also have been relentlessly working on speaker position. So the latest change has again produced something not quite expected..... I purchased new passive crossovers from Bob Crites. Upon receiving them I decided that I didn't like all the crimp connections so I replaced them all with soldered connections and just a couple other changes with wire size on the LF network. I just hooked up the first completed speaker to compare against the other unchanged speaker.... the new mod has made a very noticeable difference in the sound. The easiest way to describe it is what my wife said "one speaker sounds like it is in a bare room and the other sounds like the walls are padded". I concur with that... the moded speaker sounds warm and is producing a better low (deeper) end. I also notice that the tweeter seems to be almost enjoyable and somewhat musical, compared to just being tingy. So I'm going to get started on the other speaker.... hopefully done tonight!

In my limited listening experience.... I find that the KLF- 30's are a bit bright, but I'm working on that issue. As far as the low end, I've read that the 20's have better extension... which blows me away, as my 30's hit very hard! And they take it all day long! I recently broke the midrange horn... either screwed too tight or too much low frequency? m

I'm not quite sure what you mean by vertical or horizontal..........do you plan on removing the balancing network or leaving it intact? Vertical would be running one amp to each channel, rather than one to the mid/high and the other to the low (horizontal). m

So if I go this route.... do the back wall and the sides, so how far forward of speaker and how far above? m

Got it!

Is this "built in" equalization just in the mid/high network? Are the lows just a simple low pass network that can be easily replaced with an active crossover? Mark

Well.... now there's a familiar name! Thanks!

I want to do the active x-over deal.... not sure if I want to run it vertical or horizontal. I like the vertical configuration for the fact that the low channel can borrow from the channel running the mid/high frequency if needed. I like the horizontal idea as I could run a softer "t" function amp to the mid/highs. I just need to play around with it. I'm already knee deep in amps so the only additional cost is in the x-over and cables. I have 25" from the back wall and 18" from the side wall with a 12' room width.... this was a compromise from the theoretical ideal position, but that's just all the room I have. How high did you run the acoustic foam? And just on the back wall... not the sides? Does anyone know what the nominal impedance is for the 12's ... I'm guessing two 4 ohm in series? Thanks!

Hey Guys.... Been looking around for a couple of weeks now... I have been looking for any pertinent information in regards to bi-amping KLF-30's. I'm really interested in the Bob Crites x-overs for the KLF's, but I'm not sure that with bi-amping that I will be just wasting money? As it looks like I will be just needing the high pass portion of the x-over and the low pass will be accomplished with the active x-over? I could e-mail Mr. Crites and see iff he can build me a mid/high without the low. My manual specs my low/mid pass at 800HZ, so in choosing the active x-over point would I want to be right at 800HZ or just above or below? I really like my KLF's, but I must say that the horns can get a bit abrasive at high volume levels.... so I'm thinking that I would want to run a softer amp up top. I guess I should say that I have all Carver gear... and mostly modified amps: TFM-35x @ 346W/452W; M-1.0 @ 460W/510W and a stock M-500t @ 250W/350W... 8/4 ohm respectively. Thoughts and/or directions... much appreciated! HRDROKN