Rivernuggets
-
Posts
3770 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Rivernuggets
-
-
So yours is wired like the this schematic? It would be nice if the terminal block was shown as well...
I think I see what you mean. The text I copied has them labeled incorrectly then. In any case, each just needs to move to the next lower tap, which will drop each by 3 dB.
With my schematic expertise [:|] It looks like that's what I have. Thanks for clarifying Marvel - in my case the tweeter will be moved from tap 3 to 2, and the squawker 2 to 1. Cool...I see in the schematic how each lower numbered tap has double the impedance. If I'm interpreting that right, it makes sense to me how the tweet and squawk are going to be quieter. Weee!
And to be ridiculously repetitive, the resistor connects the positive and negative wires of the squawker, yes? Seems weird to connect them, because in most situations one would want to avoid that.
I've ordered those resistors from Parts Express, so I'll do the mod once they get here. I'll do one speaker, then compare with the original.
Thanks for the help!
-
Thanks 70SATMan. Please have some more patience with me.
This crossover looks to be different from where I was told to change the taps.
Taps 1 and 4 have nothing.
Tap 2 has the squawker.
Tap 3 has the tweeter (after capacitor)
Taps 0 and 5 are inputs.
Because this is different from DeanG's or John Albright's direction, I'm lost.
-
Listen to Pete H...buy used if you can. You can post what you're looking for in the Garage Sale section of the Forum.
-
"So, put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with squawker, you can screw it right to the + - spots on barrier strip for the squawker. Then move the tweeter from tap 2 to tap 1, and the squawker from tap 3 to tap 2."
I'm not understanding this phrase 100%. So I connect the resistor to the squawker + and -- (the two squawker screws closest to the camera). Then from there I need to understand the term 'tap'. Sorry to be slow with this, but I'd like to hear the difference it will make and I want to do it right.
-
Sorry for the hijacked thread, carbon. It's all for the sake of learning and tweeking, right? [Y]
-
Thanks again Bruce. I'd like to attempt this, if my crossover will cooperate with this mod. Here's a picture of my crossover.
-
Would either of these be a more permanent solution than the H/K?
Never owned Denon. But I can say I've heard of people say (not often) Denon can be harsh with Klipsch. Haven't heard that said with HK.
-
Thanks for the quote Bruce. I like DeanG's suggestion, lowering the mids & highs. It's a little over my head (doesn't take much w/electronics). Could this process be broken down a little more for my slow mind? Are we talking these resistors?
-
I wouldn't do it. You'd have to make sure your speakers are being powered by one amp at a time, not both. I dunno, human nature dictates you will forget at some point. Then all there would be to do is drink and hate yourself. [:@]
Better to use an HT bypass mentioned above or have a seperate 2 channel system in another room. MUCH safer, and you'd have two systems to tweek. Twice the fun!
-
I plan to keep the RF3's and integrate.
I've had the RF-3II speaker package for 8 years, and will be an RF-7 owner tomorrow (used). The RF-3IIs are great but the upgrade bug is on.
I hadn't thought of integrating the 3's with the 7's. I think the 7's may overpower because of their higher efficiency over the 3's. The decibel adjust on your AVR receiver can compensate for some of this. If you find the 7's do not integrate well, sell your RF-3II package to fund an RF-7 package. You'd have to wait for some used ones to come around.
-
He's probably powering them with a 60 watt Denon receiver or something........like the KLF-20's I just picked up. They sounded terrible during the demo. It's a good thing I knew better. Brought them home and put some serious juice to em and they sounded great.
Speak of the devil! See you tomorrow SWL.
-
joshnich, thank you for your knob cover offer! You have a PM.
-
Thats like putting an ad in the paper to sell your car and write how it is the biggest POS out there...
He's given you some ammo. Offer him $400 - say your not a huge fan of RF-7's either and just need some garage speakers.
If they are in great condition like he says, $650 is very good. I'm buying a pair of 7's from SWL tomorrow for definately more than that.
-
Why not just come over and wizz on my barbeque??
My wife comes in our computer room, "What was so funny?"
Still haven't heard Cornwalls. When I picked up some Heresy cabs from tidmack, I saw a pair at his place (bigger than my mind's image) but did not have the pleasure. Soon. Patience.
Good luck on your 299 refurb.
-
OK, it's crude, but I'm a dude. I use the Onkyo as 2-channel AND 5.1 amplifier. The white MWMs clones have their own power amps with active rolloff at 180 Hz. the rest of the horns are all passive. Center and rears only used for movies, as are the Khorn bass bin clones in the hallway (used as EQ'd subwoofers).
Dude, with all that......time to get a larger TV! [
] -
I own an original Scott 299-C. It performs ok but needs an overhaul. I'm here to give a second 'woot!' for Craig at NOSValves. I've been emailing him back and forth with questions about my 299. He responded quickly with a rough price on overhauling the unit, and his opinions about the C that I have. Haven't done the overhaul yet - [:$] - other projects getting in the way! What I'm saying is just from is emails I know you'd working with a good guy.
edit: Forgot to say I paid $275 for my Scott 299-C. Here are some pics if you like.
-
Same as Youthman, I can only comment on an older model. I have used the AVR525 for 8 years now. Has preouts and analog ins, 70 watts x 7, no HDMI.
-
I must share. Floyd + MoFi = Bliss
-
Welcome to the Forum, Ridgerunner. You can try Klipsch if you want new ones. They stopped production of them in 2004, so they may no longer carry them. OR maybe they do!
Klipsch Customer Support
1-800-KLIPSCH (1-800-554-7724)
support@klipsch.comIf Klipsch doesn't have new or you want a used pair, post a WTB (want to buy) in the Garage sale section here on the Forum - maybe someone can help you out. And of course there is always Ebay & Craigslist.
Good luck in your search.
-
I was looking at the VRD Tube amp Craig sells, and I don't understand this line in the specs:
60 watts Ultra Linear/30 watts Triode switchable
I know one shouldn't get too hung up on watts.....I'm just curious. Could someone please explain these? I can email Craig and ask him, but here is good too.
-
Doesn't 2.83 volts equal 1 watt? Aren't they just using different terms?
-
Look at that cover.....She DOES have her own island!
-
From what I understand, there is no difference in sound quality. And as Wm McD pointed out, same with complicated computer programs. Burned duplicates perform just as fine.
The only difference I know of doesn't have to do with sound quality. A commercially made disc will last a long time, where as a burned CD-R has a shelf life of 10-12 years. This is what I've read but not experienced personally so far. I have many burned music cds for the car that I've had for about 10 years and no deterioration yet.
-
She's 51.....and fine.
]
New Member w/ Cornwalls
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Very cool. Post some pictures! How it looks now and when you get it back. Please.