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Mighty Favog

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Posts posted by Mighty Favog

  1. All right....

     

    Till I have more time to dig into this, I disconnected the 14/2 at the next outlet upstream. Then I plugged in the polarity checker to that upstream outlet and it shows the hot and neutral wires are reversed.

     

    Is it just a simple fix to reverse the black and white wires at this outlet that feeds the bad outlet. I have some hesitations doing that, it just sounds weird.

     

    Before the bad outlet went dead, she was using a heat gun that she said started a acting as if it was getting less and less electric and then went it wouldn't work at all.

    IMG_20230816_182030.jpg

  2. All right, I'm under the assumption the next outlet upstream is on an adjoining wall. By itself, it tests fine and appliances work fine from it. The circuit tracer transmitter shows a bright steady green light to say it's working. I swapped in a new receptacle with that outlet anyway just in case something was wrong with the "output" to the, now, bad outlet. But nothing has changed.

     

    The same wall the bad outlet is on also has the electric service for our electric stove and three switches that controll the ceiling lights and ceiling fan. All of which are not on the same circuit as the bad outlet. In looking in the basement, the stove light service goes into a non-accessible crawl space so I can't even look there to check its condition.

  3. 31 minutes ago, babadono said:

    to clarify, I mean the connection that comes off the GFI that GOES TO THE NON FUNCTIONING  outlet. If it goes to another outlet first check the connections there also.

     

    O.K., we found which circuit breaker the bad outlet is on and it's not the one the GFI is on.

     

    I even swapped out the socket again with another new one with the same result. 

  4. 9 minutes ago, JJkizak said:

    It's one of those connections that is good enough to allow miniscule currents to indicate voltage but when you really load it with an appliance the connection (somewhere) cannot supply the proper current. Or it's on a three way switch. Or the breaker is fried but it cannot supply the proper current. Or you have a junction box in a damp crawl space with a corroded wire. Do you have aluminum wire feeds?

    JJK

     

    This house has copper wiring. The outlet is non-switched. I'd change the breaker if I could tell which one it is. Need a 2nd person here 'cause I don't feel like running up the steps each time. The transmitter to my signal tracer has a faint flicker of the green LED instead of a bright green. That might be a clue.

  5. 7 minutes ago, babadono said:

    Starting to sound like prongs of appliance(s) not making contact with socket for whatever reason. But you already replaced the socket?

     

    That's what I was thinking too. But on 4 different appliances? And with a new socket AND the old socket?

  6. 1 minute ago, babadono said:

    Is the GFI in the outlet in question or is daisy chained from another GFI outlet?

     There's only one GFI and it's in another room. It covers two bathrooms and the kitchen.

  7. So, we were using a 110v outlet at the kitchen counter. The appliance is a vaccum sealer for canning food. All is well for a few days.

     

    Now, the sealer isn't working. In fact nothing works from that outlet anymore.

     

    -Circuit breakers: check

    -CGFI: working fine.

    -Replaced socket with quality Leviton unit: check

     

    Then I go to test it with a noid light. It shows there's current present. I use a polarity 3-light tester, all shows correct and current is present.

     

    Never could find the correct breaker with the circuit tracer so I just shut off the whole house before swapping out the outlet.

     

    Still at a loss......

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