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justinsweber

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Posts posted by justinsweber

  1. I wish that was my choice... Its a small bedroom which may have been used as an office, thus having 2 alcoves that are ~14" deep. I don’t have a ton of space in that room, so I try to make the most of it.

    The 3 ways defin sounded "better", esp with the new tweeter... Dave poured a ton of sweat into them, but they protruded into the room another 10" making a 10x10 room a hair smaller. The fact that these are true cornwalls means alot to me. I sell/ or help people (myself included) build splits, but I love owning a piece of the Co. history too.

    The 2 ways have a smoothness I really enjoy... somewhat different sound but still heritage. Maybe a good comparison would be Altec 416s vs Model 18s or JBL L200s vs L300s.

    I wish that was my choice... Its a small bedroom which may have been used as an office, thus having 2 alcoves that are ~14" deep.

    The 3 ways definitely sounded "better", esp with the new tweeter... Dave poured a ton of sweat into them, but they protruded into the room another 10" making a 10x10 room a hair smaller. The fact that these are true cornwalls means allot to me. I sell/ or help people (myself included) build splits, but I love owning a piece of the Co. history too.

    The 2 ways have a smoothness I really enjoy... somewhat different sound but still heritage. Maybe a good comparison would be Altec 416s vs Model 18s or JBL L200s vs L300s.

    My personal listening space is: Cornscala 2ways (Eliptrac 400/B&C DE85TN, ALK AP12-500, Eminence Kappa Pro 15C all built by fastlane audio) McIntosh MA2275, Mac mini, Emotiva XDA-2, (DIYtube step-up, VPI classic with Grado Sonata Reference).

    Guest room/ Demo: Rig1 (ampsandsound split cabs, fastlane audio plywood eliptrac/B7C DE85TN, ALK AP12-500, Eminence Kappa Pro 15C) (Home built pre using super simple pre PCBs and 1st watt regulated PCB, MM phono/PCB),( Schit Modi Dac) (ampsandsound Kenzie special ed.)

    Guest room/ Demo: Rig2 (fastlaneaudio “poor-mans-Tannoy 12” eminence coaxial with eminence tweeter) (Above pre) (Stockish Dynaco ST35 in custom rack mount chassis)

    Downstairs: Rogue Tempest II, Olive music server (Never used… total mistake to buy), Econowaves with home built crossovers and Cabs from Fastlaneaudio. Or 3 way cornscalas which I’m selling locally.

  2. As many here know, Ive owned way more of Dave's speakers than any one person should.

    He build me what was my reff pair for many years... his Circle track tweeter + Eliptrac+ALK= amazing... a few years after that he had a wild idea to slam a pair of his eliptracs into some con walls. Dave found a pair of original corn walls and got to both restoring and hot-rodding these war horses.

    When I came to feel my rega 324 was limiting factor, the sale of these bad-asses funded my purchase of a VPI Classic I. Missing my 2ways brought about the design of the split cab conscala cabs, yet I still missed my originals.

    Recently the person who bought my originals from me, offered to trade my new Black cornscalas for my old pair... I jumped out the chance to have my pair back... After a few hours of listening, he and I came to a trade we both loved... and I gained my 2ways back and he got the reference has had been always chasing.

    The Veener is not perfect, and so Ryan is going to put some quarter swan sepela on ... Ive seen it on his bass bins and its a head turner... Im just happy to have an old friend home :-).

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  3. Heaven and earth bend for a good rib eye.

    Rib eye from the BBQ, some Johnny Walker Gold-n-Coke (No judging !) and mashed potatoes.

    Or full rack of beef ribs and mac-n-cheese, peach cobbler and ice cream.

  4. Bigben is about 8mv-10mv at idle which is higher. that said, has never been audable with an ear inside a large horn... Just the benifit of Oscope and measurement.

    I dont currently have a plan to update big ben anytime soon, its outputs are already significantly over specd. I really like the compromises made for big ben currently... I doesnt need snubbers yet I cant hear or measure any switching noise.

    The Stereo 15 is an incredibly solid performer, but I had worked for the last 8mo to get new iron made... it didnt make sense to just do an upgrade of outputs when the baseline was so good already, so I went a bit nuts on the one in the pics... new Iron all the way around.

  5. This amp is the same as my Stereo 15… making use a 12AX7/12BH7 combo with pairs of P-P EL84, no ICs for regulation. The major upgrades are the new iron and bypassing the diodes. My web designer is coming tonight and will take some pics… hopefully I’ll have them back by Monday. The circuit is a reworking of Halfers/dynaco’s original… few new ideas.

    What became evident in bench testing is that the iron beats the circuit. The iron was able to go lower and higher than the 10hz-20hz we measured, but was more limited by the feedback network. My Tech has access to Decca cap boxes and resistor networks and we tried a few more options… really couldn’t get more out of it… Its very very flat response and significantly improved LF control.

    The tube rectifier question was to get out of using snubbing caps to mange HF noise. I generally am not one for Tube rectifiers, but this setup has me very happy. The amp will be on its way to its new home soon. I’ll be doing 10 hours of listening before she leaves.

    I even secured a Japanese Mullard 5AR4 to sweeten the sound for the user. I think tubes that it will be shipped with, will include Solvtek 12AX7/ RCA12BH7 Solvtek EL84Ms and the Japanese Mullard 5AR4. The new power transformer made much of this possible…

    I tried 3 different transformers from 2 different companies all with terrible results. The new transformer has no mechanical hum, has an internal shield J, increased filament current reserves and a separate 5v 4 amp winding. In time I will transition all the amps to this unit… added $60 more in cost but I think its worth it. The amp is weighing in at 30lbs now, which has a lot to do with the new power transformer.

  6. we are getting 5mV P-P of noise at idle with inputs shorted which makes it the quitest thus far.. I think its largely due to the shield the power transformer uses.

    Maximum Power @ 1kHz = 15 Watts RMS

    246mV P-P = 1 W RMS 10 Hz (-0db) - 27.4 kHz (-1db)

    550mV P-P = 5 W RMS 18 Hz (-1db) - 22 kHz (-1db)

    796mV P-P = 10 W RMS 26 Hz (-0db) - 15.5 kHz (-1db) (Before Distortion)

  7. Hey Everone,

    As usual Im completly sleep deprived as is Ryan my biz partner... but we got a few new ideas worked out... The day to day building is easy to schedule, but working out new ideas take some seriosu time. We completed the Stereo 15 with 100% custom iron provided to be the easy success. Ryan spent a ton of time prototype 2 enclosures for preamps we built... We had hoped to use them at shows this summer but that seems less likely. Ive had this idea for a long time... happy to see it on my bench now.

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  8. I think it has the sound of a $2K amp... the ST35 is very special.

    If you at Dynakit they now also have a SCA35 which is the integrated version... multiple inputs and Phono pre.

    They sell the chassis, transformers and etc... youll have to source the PCBs.. but they tell you where to get... If it were my 1st DIY amp... Id go pretty close to stock and follow the wiring diagrams which you can download from multiple sources.

    Given your goals a SCA35 maybe a better choice... Has power, just more flexible.

    Re: Sub. Very often the sub amp will take input from the speaker wire... run the speaker wires to it and then from the sub to the speakers... that way the sub does crossover duty and makes life easier for the main speakers... as they will not have to play freq. below the crossover point, ~80hz to -120hz.

    Most amps, esp tube amps dont advertise freq ext below 20hz. Id call Dynakit parts and takl to kevin... then see the sites he sugests for replacement boards and review the build instructions... the amp is more than 40years old (design) yet is highly sought after... the design was solid and the iron is very good.

  9. Short answer is yes but who cares... tone controls can be helpful for some.

    I generally perfer Vol and Bal and leave it at that.

    The problem with removing them is that the circuit requires some tweaking after... more again generally. I think the wiser choice is get a useable unit and refurb... New pots, new switches, Can Cans or PCB and new PCBS... maybe with the NFB mod and call it good. I personally dont make my amps with adjustment as most... myself included are not likely to revisit often enough.

  10. If vintage is an option... The king for refurb is Dynaco SCA35 (Dynakitparts even has started selling new chassis again. (Ive owned 2 and loved them... They make a perfect project... and youll be left with 18watts with a phono stage :-).

  11. Id go with some version of NOS tube... RCA or KENRAD... prob worth the money.

    I personally prefer the sound of 6L6s to EL34... Once you get and use for a while goto tube depot and go wild... Lots of options.

    The owner of musical paradise has spoken directly on a few posts on audio karma... He designs in canada and builds in asia... That said he amps look well made. I don't think its the last word by any means... but defin an amp to be proud to use and has some nice features... vol pot and 2 inputs.

    Looking on ebay... Id get it stock and buy my driver tube off ebay or tube depot.

  12. My strong suggestion would be to by a Dynaco ST35 kit from Dynacokitparts.com incredible service... he will even solder your PCBs.... Dynacos have a cult following and many many many on here can help. The ST35 will be more than enough power and will be super reliable. We can even help you add a vol pot. http://www.dynakitparts.com/dynakit-products/amplifier-kits/ST-35-KIT

    If not, my 2nd strong choice is musical paradise MP-301…. Great amp… Go dynaco if you want pride of building… go Musical Paradise for entry level that punches above its weight. http://www.musicalparadise.ca/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54

  13. OK after ½ mile walk to a meeting and some reflection. I will be keeping the K401 unless a Fastlaneaudio la Scala horns drop from the sky. I’ve heard them and a truly worthwhile upgrade but this is a garage/PA rig. If I were upgrading a Stock La Scala ALK cornscalawal crossover would be the absolute1st thing… That way I could dial my sound in. Dave’s HF horn and new driver would be next and followed by a new mid horn. I would then cut the tophat off… shorten it and have some cool LS monsters. Perhaps it’s upgrade-it is, or realization that sound great now… but I will call it good unless someone will do the work for me, (so not happening).

    Dave any desire to install your mid and HF horns and cut my top-hats down?... I supsect it will be silence I hear from now on. :-)

    As an aside. the D250X HD is a pretty incredible driver. Im not sure if Dave us using it with his Radial horn but it is a sweet driver regardless of price... the price is just the bonus.

    • Like 1
  14. So the crossovers came in yesterday and I as always, ALKs packing is 1st rate. Each crossover was individually padded within its own sub-package. Not really fancy wrapping but time consuming with attention to detail.

    I screwed the crossovers down and screwed down the wire leads… Taking the time to make the connections with fork ends crimped/ soldered into place and either tinned or with push on connectors definitely was a good idea.

    The Top-hat consists of the tweeter (Eminence APT-200) Klipsch K-401 paired to a Selenium D250X HD.

    After getting everything put and running and changing the auto former to -9 and setting the tweeter adjustment to the middle I removed my Eliptrac 400/ B&C DE85TN (AP12-500). I have to say it sounded like ***… super thin… very bad… not as expected. So then I broke out the noisy amp and set for pink noise and measured. The Mids were crazy low and the woofer (Eminence Kappa 15C) was running over it.

    So I started to move down on the auto former… 1st -6 better but not there. -3 WOW ok so I have a cornscala here. I then tried -3 with +1 tap used.. Seemed better but at 1db difference, I set it back to the -3 for ease of use. The Tweeter then was adjusted several times, settling 1 setting below full output. The D250X HX is supposed to be 107db so -9db would have had it at 98db which is right about the Kappa 15C. That said, it sounded way way way off with that setting and sounded spot on with the -3 which Ill need to ask ALK for a rhyme and reason for.

    Played against the AP12-500/DE85TN The big combo is the clear winner… BUT this network was incredibly musical and would be happy to own/use for a long time. I don’t like that the Eminence driver does not share its efficiency… I will replace with Eminence ASD1001 as it will screw on. I have zero complaints about sound. The Cornscalawal crossover is one of the most musical I’ve heard; more musical than my AP12-500 but less true… The AP12 makes for a better studio sound if you will. I will say I forgot just how long the K401 horn is. I will at some point soon bye a fastrack La Scala horn and then shorten the tophat.

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