CallMeJoe
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Posts posted by CallMeJoe
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Regluing the woofer surround I used some glue I had left over from the foam surrounds I replaced on my JBL L26s. Those foam surrounds were purchased from Rick Cobb's eBay store (looneytune2001).What glue did you use when you did the surrounds?
Bruce
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...I had to do reglue the motorboard/side cabinet on a KG 5.5 once. Must have been the glue used at the time.
It appears they used a hot glue that did not age well.
Out of curiosity, what glue did you use? I've used Titebond III for my recent wood projects, but I cut my panels to a closer fit than the KG 3.5 motorboard and rear baffle. Would an expanding glue such as Gorilla be better, or should I just use Titebond and then RTV the seams?
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I had my doubts since the glue's grip on the basket had been so persistent, but I set the woofer face down on some newspapers and started to work at the edge of the rubber ring with my fingernail. It took a brief effort to get it started and then it peeled off the cone very smoothly. Either they use a different adhesive on the cone than they do on the basket or the adhesive they use doesn't bind nearly so well to the ICG cone as to the steel basket.
Thanks for the tip.
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I recently purchased a set of KG 3.2s and found one of the woofers (K-1002-K) had a jagged 4 cm tear in the rubber surround. I found a suitable replacement surround and managed to pry off the plastic trim ring and remove the surround from the woofer frame, but the cone edge presents a different problem - the rubber is bonded far better than the foam surrounds I have encountered on previous woofer repair jobs.
Can anyone recommend a solvent to soften the glue without damaging the ICG cone material?
Toluene? Acetone? MEK?
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Searching for a different woofer problem, I found this thread and realized I never responded.
Woofer rattle is cured and the KG 5.2s have been playing merrily for the last 21 months. I have just moved them to a secondary system since I completed my Faux Forte II cabinets and moved those to primary stereo duty. I shall be tearing down the 5.2s soon to check cabinet integrity, as I recently found the baffles separating on my 3.5s and want to ensure the 5.2s are sound. While out of service I shall also refresh the cabinets by restoring some battered corners and laying on a fresh red oak veneer.
Thanks again for the advice.
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Thanks for the prompt reply. I caught that you opened the top of the doghouse into the top chamber (and sealed the back of that chamber).
Again. beauitiful work!
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Apologies for the NecroThread, but I just found this and am truly impressed by your concept and execution. It inspires me to start watching for a set of LaScalas myself!
I note you give precise horizontal dimensions for your port slot, but no vertical figure......That old piece of ply is also the port shelf, notice the rails are 15" apart and the area between them it 10-5/8 long.
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Fresh to the Forums.
I very recently bought a pair of RF-62 speakers and an RC-62. My question is. When Klipsch says the speaker sizes are 6.5" woofers.. Why do mine only measure out to be only 5.75"?
I'm guessing you measured the speaker cone at 5.75"; the 6.5" figure is a "nominal" size, typically measured across the speaker basket.
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The Void Audio site has various test cds, including ones with narrow band pink noise, as well as ones with sine tones for free download.
Thanks for the tip; I'd been googling "pink noise downloads" and variants without finding anything this useful.
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Meredith Brook's What Would Happen (
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The first one looks like something that a double 0 spy could use at a cocktail party to secretly hear others conversations.
Or the first rough draft of Prince Charles' ears...
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>They must have been equalized
in the preamps, since the equalization was to correct for the spectral
character of the microgroove albums. As you surmise, there were vastly
different qualities of RIAA curve implementation.I
disagree. I have a considerable number of early microgroove records
and they do not exhibit "vastly different" curves. For one thing, the
curves were based on a number of physical issues that yielded pretty
much the same curve no matter who calculated it. The curve was set in
stone in 1955, but previous LP's were already close enough for the
playback to be correct already. In fact, as I go back through recorded
history it is only in the 30's that significant variants begin to be
heard.Dave
Mea Culpa; I stated that poorly. Recording companies were relatively consistent in implementation of the recording curve. It was the playback curve that was poorly implemented by some hardware manufacturers.
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I offer for example the Pat-5 Bi-FET , phono input " High -- Low switch " please elaborate on what it's function must be ?
LO: Greater than 115 millivolts at 1 KHz.
Phono Input Acceptance:
HI: Greater 45 millivolts at 1 KHz
Impedances:
Magnetic Phono: 47,000 ohms in parallel with 220 pF.
High level: 50,000 ohms http://home.indy.net/~gregdunn/dynaco/components/PAT5/index.htmlThat is a High/Low Gain switch, giving an additional 6 dB of amplification in the "High" position. It has nothing to do with cartridge compliance. The impedances noted are for two different sets of inputs, the Phono (Low level) and Aux, Tuner, etc. (High Level); also not compliance related.
You can find a passable primer on phono cartridge compliance here at Galen Carol Audio (the first link I found through Google)http://www.gcaudio.com/resources/howtos/tonearmcartridge.html' title="here">.
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Somehow "Yippie-Ki-Yay,M***** F*****" doesn't impart the true Christmas Spirit.
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1) Were there stereo ceramic pickups? Maybe.
Yes, there were.
2) When a preamp had an input for ceramic, did the preamp use RIAA
equalization? That might change with the sophistication of the preamp.They must have been equalized in the preamps, since the equalization was to correct for the spectral character of the microgroove albums. As you surmise, there were vastly different qualities of RIAA curve implementation.
Low compliance or High compliance for properly implementing the "RIAA curve" for phonograph input, Impedance matching (Z)
Compliance is a mechanical characteristic of the cartridge's stylus and cantilever. It has nothing to do with RIAA curve or electrical impedance.
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The Sony tuner is rather ordinary, but if the Luxman preamp and the Harman Kardon power amps are in good condition, they are well worth checking out. The price seems reasonable (IMHO).
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I've read some reports of regular DeOxit destroying potentiometers. FaderLube is made specifically for cleaning and restoring resistive surfaces.
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I like hardwood plywood (oak, maple, etc.) for such projects. You can get iron-on edge banding (skinny veneer) or use some kind of molding (shoe, shelf-edge) to dress up the exposed plywood edges.
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I have to second Gil on this; drivers fail far more often than crossovers.
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DeOxit for simple switches and contacts; Caig's Faderlube for volume, balance, tone controls etc.
(Link to Faderlube) -
I think that may be the Intel QX3 (Play) microscope I mentioned earlier in the thread. It only goes to 200X magnification, but I still find it useful for stylus work.Find yourself the microscope that was made and sold for kids that connects to your usb port and allows you to use your monitor as the display.
It has an amazing ccd and will more than adequately work. The cartridge rebuilder in Georgia swears by this.
You can find them occaisonally in garage sales as I picked one up for $5.
There are drivers available up to XP. I have not tried it on win7 or linux yet.
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You can get service manuals over at http://thecarversite.com/yetanotherforum/default.aspx?g=forum, but you must register for access.
There may be a forum glitch at the moment, as I see all sections of the forum flagged as (No Access), even though I am registerted there...
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I've always used (and recommended) monoprice rather than the various Magic Wire Interconnects.
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I've been looking at the keystone wall plates/inserts, do they work well ?
I've used the binding post, RCA and F-connector plates, all of which I recommend. I've not used the keystone style, so I shall refrain from comment.
KLF 30 woofer rattles (I isolated the woofer)
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I had a similar problem with a KG-5.2. I found a small section of the rubber surround had come loose from the woofer basket.
I removed the woofer, carefully pried the black plastic trim ring off the front of the woofer and resecured the surround with some white glue I had left over from replacing the foam surrounds on a pair of JBL L-26s.
I'm not sure of the exact type of glue; it came with the surrounds purchased from Rick Cobb (looneytune2001 on eBay) .