2sick2pray

A variation of the 555 bin in that if you look closely at the 555 you see that the outside flare starting at the rear corner comes out at a different angle than the roof panels(doghouse). I want to come out straight like the original LS to the point where the roof panels start to flare and match the same angle outwards.The mouth should look uniform in design on both sides of the roof panels. I am only expecting to keep the sound of the original LS and the bonus is a gain in a few lower HZ's., more about looks than anything. I'm entertaining Dave's Fastlane 40 HZ mod on the bottom of this as well . I am interested in Bob Crites 15" cast for drivers or as you mention the JBL 2226H's, however my experience with trying to buy JBL 2213h's proved to costly, got outbid so many times because of the shipping cost to Canada. Any how will have Sub to help out. 2S2P

Thanks moray, I already have k401's with k55ms and Bob C's ct125's.. Any how when I get to Calgary one of these days Iike to meet with you if that would be possible. Let me know if that would ok.

I'm learning everyday, so to be able to program a design I'm not there yet, however with my carpentry skills and a wild imagination coupled with my research on the subject and this forum's vast knowledge and experience I'm always open to ideas and willing to try this build. I can always go back to the 555 bin design with my skillset and a couple more sheets of plywood. I still have to keep the footprint no bigger than the 555 bin. 2S2P

Thank You again Moray you always been there for me. A quick note as I have to leave soon to support this habit. I now live in Red Deer , I will pm you tonite.

You're so right there speakerfritz, and with what you so candidly pointed out to other members that the original design used all of 2sheets of plywood and stumbled upon a 53hz cab. Like you said how you flare up, down ,wide or short, what can go wrong other than a pile of expensive sawdust.This build went from doing the original design to morphing into something all together, and all thanks to the forum and it's members. I thank you. 2S2P

I'll start by saying that with KG4guy's guidance and knowledge, I've ventured into my deviation of John Allen's 555 bin design.To answer Moray's question I've not fully landed on the driver choice yet and there are many suggestions to be looked at and I appreciate all. To complete this build I have the option to go to Kg4guy's design which was flared right from the back corner maintaining the flare of the roof panels. and extended beyond the 24" depth of the original LS design( KG4guy's post July 29th 2010). To keep the footprint at 24'' depth ' my mouth will end up by my math:)(: approx. 36.5"across, give or take a mile.. This build will be all part of a 3 way active system, and backed up by a Paradigm PS 1000 sub for now . A horn loaded 2sub build to follow. My Sansui will be my LF amp with 130rms and loads of headroom. It's a real workhorse. Also I'm entertaining the Daves Fastlane floor modded 40hz spec LS design. for the bottom of the bin. Did I mention that I work at a Building supply outlet ( 1"/ 17 ply Baltic Birch ) for the build and all the cabling I care to use. Side note I went for the Cat5e x4 twisted lay build ( as per the Speaker Cable Shootout 3) and take not that you have to follow very carefully to match solids(+) and strips(-) at terminations, to keep the cancellations right (all in for $1.16/ft) plus terminations. One of the biggest single improvements so far to my humble system. All I can say is that as I write this, Brian Bromberg's Downright Upright never sounded so complete,extended,dynamic, and wider. To qualify that statement I've been using 12/2 ga 513 strand zip wire with what I thought to be the best it was going to get. There are no placebo or any other (WMDS) influences going on, plain and simple objective listening. Did I mention I work at building supply store:) unlimited supply for the budding DIYer. I will endeavor to follow up with pics when I finally build the bins, hopefully mastering the upload sec of the forum. 2S2P

So as to not hijack the OP's thread I will start a new one in the technical sec. 2S2P

Just like to add that with the help of KG4guy I've been building LaScala's with a twist. Using John Allen's 555 bin design, I'm deviating from the accepted Klipsch design. I am coming straight out along the outsides from the back to the point where the doghouse then angles to the roofpanels. I will then keep the same flare angle as the roof panels, and end up with the mouth being approx. 36.5" across, instead of the 24" standard width. Just waiting on the material, Baltic Birch 1" 17 ply to arrive. Will post pics of the build and hopefully be able to test for the results as I'm very new to the DIY World Of Sports.2S2P

I came so close to getting my hands on one from a a very dear friend only to have her realize that the sentimentality was to much to lose as it was her first ever stereo. That being said I then went on to find a perfect Sansui AU11 D11 mkII and have never looked back. I am going to use it with a Denon PMA 520 and a Yammy R500 as part of an active Xover setup. The HK is still sitting in the crawlspace of her home after all these years. I only wanted to give it the life it deserved, and not as a spiders nest. 2S2P

Thanks that is what I was hoping to hear as I'm learning quickly. I still haven't been able to post my PDF manuals. My Sansui is rated @ 130W RMS 2ch into 8 ohm/ .0028% THD / 110 SNR, and the Denon @ 70w RMS into 8ohm/ .008% THD/ 105 SNR and the Yammy @ 40w RMS into 8ohm/ .015% THD/ 100 SNR. To qualify the SNR ratings I believe they are the IHF - A network rating. Ideas on placing for LF/MF/HF? 2S2P

Trying to upload The PDF files no luck so far

I have 3 SS amps that I'm considering to use with a 3 way Active XO . All amps are different makes but run well. Logic says to run all the same amps, however can I expect to do this without a PHD in Sound Eng? I will try to attach my PDF manuals for the amps if that helps with my query. If it is possible what order to choose (LF/MF/HF) Thank you in advance 2S2P.

Thanks again, I stumbled onto that website the other day and has some very interesting observations on the performance of caps. This is my first complete build and I did not want to skimp on the networks as I know frirst hand, they can make a huge diiference in the right setting. However that being said , I might be trying to buy cognac on a beer budget, and if I'm going to continue on this road of DIY passion, stick to the budget . The Sonicaps are in the budget , and when the time comes tweak again, and enjoy the ride. 2S2P

Thanks Mark for the insight, and one other question then is if I'm running an old Sansui SS amp would that make my build to bright then?2S2P

Is it overkill ? or stick to the original layout that ALK was so kind to give us? 2S2P

Thanks alot Cask05 I really thought I was losing my mind trying to find that thread.2S2P

I found the thread once and thought I had saved it but somehow lost it and can't find it. Please help 2S2P

And on one other note I found in my research that having 24/96 sampling may not be needed as the source material is usually 16/44.1. If you have Sacd or other HDcd recordings yes. I stumbled across some Nonsampling 16/44.1 with hi SNR values (118db-127db) DAC's in Europe, forgot the brand, as I've been in speaker building mode. I want to believe that 24/96 will be better, however the reviews on the non-sampling dac's swung me the other way.2S2P.

I've been mucking about this same subject for awhile on other forums. I use my computor as a transport with Foobar 2000 as my player for Flac. Foobar has a Wasapi mode that allows the music to bypass the other inline computor Dac's on the sound card, bit perfect. Unfortunately for me, my primary amp is an old Sansui with only RCA input and my compo has only hdmi/s/pdif/toslink 2 chan output.Hence the need for a Dac to amp setup(working on that). Anyhow ,I use my hdmi to my Samsung tv. and then output RCA to my amp for now ( sounds great to me ). Then I learned that Hdmi has clocking jitter issues.and that my tv has a substandard dac on the Rca output to my amp. Hence the need for a dac direct to amp from the compo. Can't wait anyhow I have an old 30gb 5.5 Gen Ipod, that has a Wolfson Dac in that model, which was great for it's time. So I only run Alac from Itunes on my Ipod,and Rca'd that direct to my amp. What a difference. Made me a believer,Hence the need for a Dac to amp setup. The point is what I learned was to elliminate all the dac's along the way(but one ie; Dac Magic) to amp and including the one in your Cd input on the amp. Go thru aux input, and use Wasapi if you can. 2S2P

Thanks again Speakerfritz, I hoped as much. For me it's been hard to find that info, maybe I've been looking in all the wrong places. My ex told me that once. 2S2P

bump

Building LS's with all new drivers if possible and I have one NIB OEM EV driver and wondering if I can match with Klipsch version for TS parameters and performance. I am not locked on the EV driver as it only cost me $ 60 all in.Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated as this is finally the last key to my build. 2S2P

I have an idea to use the K74's out of my KG4's on an OB design, but can't find any info on Klipsch site for TS. Or even any spec's, I'd appreciate any help.2S2P

Thank you speakerfritz as you have given me some new ideas.2s2p

I found a pair of K260 locally after trying for so long to find k400's for a Lascala build. Can I drive them with a single driver or do I need the manifold for the 4 driver setup? I'm thinking of building a Godscala on steroids with a bigger tweeter and a bigger maybe 18" bottom. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 2Sick2Dance