Jump to content

Terry Palmer

Regulars
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Terry Palmer

    Super Heresy 1 (Baby Cornwalls Mod.)

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    Saw this site before......over 10 years ago. I don't think Mr. Allen is messing with the guts of his "Heresys" under a different name, so it's probably safe to assume you have the same Xover.


    Yea these came out of a theater. I got three for $250. One had some water damage on the cabinet. I called Allen about a replacement cabinet and he said they were $250. And that the speakers cost $750 each.

    Any ideas on an ideal distance from the wall, with the port?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Super Heresy 1 (Baby Cornwalls Mod.)

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    So, what exactly did you do? Xover changes, tweeter, what?


    Nothing but filled them with some insulation and put a new back on with the 4”x4” port from Dayton. Moved the crossover to a side wall ( in these HP-70’s it was mounted on the back). Also added banana plugs for inputs. That’s all so far, I haven’t had time to tweak it much.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Converting khorns to 2way

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

     
    All you say is true.  But I have owned Reference 3a Grand  Veenas which have a super tweeter which augments the main tweeter out to 30k. When covering this tweeter you can sense a loss of ambience and air around instruments. I know I can't hear even close to those frequencies, but the change is audible.
     
    Shakey


    That’s interesting, so maybe it’s not as much of a frequency thing, as it is an openness sound. I have a pair of Fortes and Hersey HD’s. It seems I can never tell if the tweeters are working until I stick my ear right up against them. But I know they are by the presence of air, cymbals, bells, brushes and etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Converting khorns to 2way

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted


    You want hear a difference and there is very little musical information above 17 KH. You’ll just ruin the finest speaker in the world.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    I agree! The maximum a human can hear is 20 k, but that’s mainly children and into twenties. Most adults can only hear up to about 17k or 18k. As you get older 40’s - 50’s you can only hear around 10k to 12k So it doesn’t matter if the horn goes to 40k and you turn it up. You’re ears only hear what they hear. I’m 59 and I’ve played music most of my life. I wear hearing aids and can only hear up to 8k.

    Plus as Tony stated there’s not much musical information above 17k.

    Just my two cents worth.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    How to burn CD collection to FLAC

    in Lounge

    Posted

    I need to burn a CD collection to I assume FLAC. 
     
    Some help please.  What is the easiest way to burn and to have everything tagged with artwork. 
     
    I assume FLAC is the way to go.  Currently using media monkey to play, might change when the home network is updated. 


    My understanding is that AppleLosses is the same as FLAC and that can be done through iTunes. That’s how I rip all mine.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Super Heresy 1 (Baby Cornwalls Mod.)

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    I believe those were made by retired former Klipsch Chief engineer, Gary Gillum's subsequent company with his son. I have not spoken to Gary for over 10 years. I'm guessing he's doing a lot more fishing these days, if he can.


    Could have been. I’m not sure where John Allen comes in. I actually talked to him on the phone. I was also talking to Bob Creits about them he said he was looking for a pair. He told me that John Allen is where Klipsch gets most of its horns and drivers for the Heritage systems, now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Super Heresy 1 (Baby Cornwalls Mod.)

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    As Claude said, “put it wherever it fits”.
     
    As some food for thought, make sure there is enough clearance between the magnet of the woofer and the port. I would guess it’s deep eough. But it’s a guess, Claude may know for sure. 
     
    I can pop pop the back off mine when I get home and measure. I might be way off base.
     
    also, you can move the x-overs to accommodate the ports in the corners, if that’s your issue. I moved mine. As have others.
     
    I also added new 5 way Binding Posts, they are a bit overkill, but cool. They do make swapping amps way easier. I run a Restored Carver M1.5t sometimes, though for the HIGHLY sensitive SH at right around 100db efficieny the Carver is way to much with its conservatively rated 350 Watts p/chan RMS 8 ohm rating. Can barely turn the volume, and can’t get to the ‘meat’ of it. So my signal to noise suffers in that setup. Which I why they belong together with the 240.
     
    Attached is a photo of my rear panels , FYI, I made new rear panels, using thicker Baltic birch. This was to maintain the original panels condition, Incase I ever sold them(which i don’t see happening and I already sold the K22 woofers. No way they were ever going back in lol) and to add ‘strength’ to the cabinet. Not sure of the actual effects. But they look cool! Can’t hurt either l. Lol
     
    also note the position of the Super Heresy in the below pic IS NOT how I run them. It’s just how they are for the moment. I scored a set of speakers I’ve always wanted for a dirt cheap price Thursday. They are what the Super Heresy are resting on. 
    But they are a different manufacturer and that not what this forum is about. 
    My Fiancee wanted to hear the ‘new’ speakers with  the MC240. And I don’t like moving that bohemith peice of Iron unless my clumsy a$$ has to! Lol
    just didn’t want anyone thinking that’s how measurements were take or that I’m listening in that fashion. 
    The SH will take their rightful place alone in that system before the sun falls today!
     
    still way impressed with this Mod. 
    7F1CA20C-3BCC-4F2F-BEB9-61620FC595CD.thumb.jpeg.3f54b1adbcf7b6639ee00542b0808819.jpeg



    Thanks so much for all the information. Mine are actually a Hersey I copy. HPS 4000’s made by Klipsch for John Allen who’s main work if in Theaters and concert venues. http://www.hps4000.com/pages/sr_70_.html They came out of a theater that was being torn down. They sale for $750 ea. But I picked up three for total $250. They have the exact tweeter and midrange horn and driver as Hersey I’s but a beefier woofer. I believe it is made by Eminence. A sealed cabinet, MDF not Baltic plywood.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Super Heresy 1 (Baby Cornwalls Mod.)

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    I will present this mod in incremental steps:
    For the bass improvement: order this flared port (cheap) https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-4-id-x-4-l-flared--260-403 and cut the appropriate size hole in the rear bottom corner.  
    Remove the K-22 woofer and replace with K-42-K, ordered from Klipsch parts or an Eminence Delta Pro 12A from Parts Express if you don't have a serial number on the back of your old Heresy Cabinets. You should use 8 screws per woofer instead of just 4, since the magnet is huge on the K-42 and very heavy. The woofer weighs almost 20 lbs. and more screws are cheap insurance. You will need #10, 1 1/4" screws since the cast woofer frame is thicker than the K22 you are removing.
    Put foam on all surfaces inside the cabinet to absorb and keep the rear generated midrange stuff from bouncing around.
    You will need to increase the K55 idrange and tweeter output by 3 db to match the more efficient woofer.
    I have an "E" network, so I changed the first capacitor going to the autoformer from 2 uf. to a 4 uf. You can buy a new cap, or just solder two 2 uf. capacitor in parallel (which will give you 4 uf) on top of each other there now if your network was refreshed. If not replace those old fat original capacitors with the following: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-20-20uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-414
    Unsolder the wires from terminal 2 (K55V midrange position) and 3 (tweeter position). Now solder the midrange wire that was on terminal #2 onto #3. Those of you with "D" networks should reverse the leads going to the K55V driver.
    Take the K-77 tweeter wire and solder it to terminal #4 on the autoformer. This should have been unused before.
    For a tweeter that stomps a K-77 and is worth every penny, do what I did to get those sweet, flat tweeter portions of my curves and superior definition on cymbals and harmonics of all instruments.
    Go to ALK Engineering's web site and order the super tweeter made by Fastlane Audio for the B&C120 driver, or for a cheaper alternative that still fits, get the DE-10 (after measuring and using both, I prefer this over the more expensive DE-120). It comes pre-mounted, but you will have to cut the corners to fit into a Heresy cabinet on top of a K-700 horn. You can just do it with a coping saw or hacksaw blade. Takes about 5 minutes to do. Also you will need longer screws for the woofer and tweeter so make a trip to the hardware store.

    Is there any other ideas for the ports? Would it be OK for the port to be in the center in the back. I will need to move the speaker inputs. I don’t have room to put the ports off to the lower corners.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Super Heresy 1 (Baby Cornwalls Mod.)

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    I will present this mod in incremental steps:
    For the bass improvement: order this flared port (cheap) https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-4-id-x-4-l-flared--260-403 and cut the appropriate size hole in the rear bottom corner.  
    Remove the K-22 woofer and replace with K-42-K, ordered from Klipsch parts or an Eminence Delta Pro 12A from Parts Express if you don't have a serial number on the back of your old Heresy Cabinets. You should use 8 screws per woofer instead of just 4, since the magnet is huge on the K-42 and very heavy. The woofer weighs almost 20 lbs. and more screws are cheap insurance. You will need #10, 1 1/4" screws since the cast woofer frame is thicker than the K22 you are removing.
    Put foam on all surfaces inside the cabinet to absorb and keep the rear generated midrange stuff from bouncing around.
    You will need to increase the K55 idrange and tweeter output by 3 db to match the more efficient woofer.
    I have an "E" network, so I changed the first capacitor going to the autoformer from 2 uf. to a 4 uf. You can buy a new cap, or just solder two 2 uf. capacitor in parallel (which will give you 4 uf) on top of each other there now if your network was refreshed. If not replace those old fat original capacitors with the following: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-20-20uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-414
    Unsolder the wires from terminal 2 (K55V midrange position) and 3 (tweeter position). Now solder the midrange wire that was on terminal #2 onto #3. Those of you with "D" networks should reverse the leads going to the K55V driver.
    Take the K-77 tweeter wire and solder it to terminal #4 on the autoformer. This should have been unused before.
    For a tweeter that stomps a K-77 and is worth every penny, do what I did to get those sweet, flat tweeter portions of my curves and superior definition on cymbals and harmonics of all instruments.
    Go to ALK Engineering's web site and order the super tweeter made by Fastlane Audio for the B&C120 driver, or for a cheaper alternative that still fits, get the DE-10 (after measuring and using both, I prefer this over the more expensive DE-120). It comes pre-mounted, but you will have to cut the corners to fit into a Heresy cabinet on top of a K-700 horn. You can just do it with a coping saw or hacksaw blade. Takes about 5 minutes to do. Also you will need longer screws for the woofer and tweeter so make a trip to the hardware store.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    A question

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    I’m a big Klipsch fan from AR. All my speakers in the whole house are Klipsch. I’ve been reading about speakers made out of the Dayton exciters, on foam board or other things. Has anyone tried one of these projects?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Upgrade crossover in Forte’ or buy a new Cartridge.

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted


    I believe the kit is only the Sonicaps. Perhaps at that point, you should invest a little more in “higher quality” or “higher rated” capacitors? Only issue is if they fit onto the stock board, or do you plan to make your board like Crites does? If the latter then size doesn’t matter. At least that’s what I hope she said.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Yea I may check into just buying the capacitors and resistors myself and reloading by them. That’ll never admit it but size does matter. Lol


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • Like 2

    Upgrade crossover in Forte’ or buy a new Cartridge.

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Think my forte's were around that time. There is a review done by a couple of respected techies/critics that found the forte as the best they had heard in overall balance. They  even wanted to keep the speakers that Klipsch had sent for their review for publication. So, as is and refreshed, the crossovers
    will put all back into spec for you. Are you a DIY solderer?



    Yea I can get by, because I have built some speakers in the past. And built a few crossovers from some schematics. I actually have a whole box of resistors, capacitors and omh’s but nothing in the right value for the upgrade.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • Thanks 1

    Upgrade crossover in Forte’ or buy a new Cartridge.

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Do you have the Crites Titanium Diaphragm replacements for the tweeters?  That's a good upgrade for about $60 for the pair.  If the crossovers, you can send your stock board to Crites to replace the capacitors for $110, or if you know how to solder, you can get his kit for $56 to DIY.  If you DIY, you can probably get more bang for your buck by ordering higher quality capacitors yourself instead of the SoniCaps Crites uses/sells. 

    Yea I’m probably going to order the kit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...