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dewthedru

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Posts posted by dewthedru

  1.  

    i moved from a place that had a fairly small basement where my trusty old HSU STF-3 never failed to move me. my current HT is much larger and i'm thinking i need to upgrade. i'm torn between DIY 18"s or getting 1 or 2 HSU VTF-15H's. i've actually toyed with the idea of just picking up another stf-3 but i can't find one anywhere. i've searched craigslist for the last year or so without any luck. 

    my HT space is about 550 sq ft with 8.5' tall ceilings and carpeted concrete floors.  i've included the layout.

    what do you think? would a single VTF-15 be plenty? i know more is always better but if it's totally overkill, i don't want to just throw money away. and i know some of you have already recommended building a couple of stonehendge 18"s but i don't want the bass to be ridiculous compared to the rest of my setup. (RF-35 fronts, RC-35 center, and RS-35 surrounds)

    thoughts?

      Well since you said you would be interested in a DIY project, there are many out there you can google. They have everything from a small sealed 18 to a horn loaded one that isn't a difficult build, though it is QUITE large.

     

      Cinema F20

    yB20zl.jpg

     

     

     

      Bryant

     

     

    lolz....i cannot imagine putting that thing in my house!

  2. Who wants 30 subs? Larger subs have larger motors, not an issue at soft or loud listening levels. Now there is intergal calculus where you are chasing infinity and never get there. :) Four subs or four areas of stacked subs will give the best room response. Metro, if you are ever in Indiana, you have an open invite to hear my system. :D

    I'm in Indiana. Just sayin'. ;-)

  3. 4675ft3, that is a LARGE space acoustically. Let's consider that HT for THX purposes is a room of 3000 ft3 and the Klipsch THX system is built for that. All that being said, how loud do you listen and to what material? 

     

    i listen to mostly movies and video games.  and the volume is just under what will piss my wife off.  haha.

    • Like 1
  4. That space is huge! And if you want a good subwoofer setup to me either a pair of ported 18's or a quad sealed setup with 4 18's like mine. Would be a minimum for me. If my room were ANY bigger I would build another four subs in a heartbeat. And mine is only 12x23 with 7.5 foot ceilings

     

     

    yes....but you're what we in the marketing community call...an outlier.   :D

  5. i moved from a place that had a fairly small basement where my trusty old HSU STF-3 never failed to move me. my current HT is much larger and i'm thinking i need to upgrade. i'm torn between DIY 18"s or getting 1 or 2 HSU VTF-15H's. i've actually toyed with the idea of just picking up another stf-3 but i can't find one anywhere. i've searched craigslist for the last year or so without any luck. 

    my HT space is about 550 sq ft with 8.5' tall ceilings and carpeted concrete floors.  i've included the layout.


    what do you think? would a single VTF-15 be plenty? i know more is always better but if it's totally overkill, i don't want to just throw money away. and i know some of you have already recommended building a couple of stonehendge 18"s but i don't want the bass to be ridiculous compared to the rest of my setup. (RF-35 fronts, RC-35 center, and RS-35 surrounds)

    thoughts?

    post-50408-0-51880000-1424194451_thumb.j

    post-50408-0-15240000-1424194719_thumb.j

  6. Here is a sim of the Ultimx 18 sealed Yellow and the SI Orange and my vented sub Red.  The SI has more output above 40 Hz by around 2-3 db and the Ultimax seal has a hair more output below 40 Hz.  The vented box has roughly a 12 db advantage at 16 - 20 Hz which is massive.  Room size needs to always be considered in deciding betwee sealed or ported subs.  For small room extension is good due to cabin gain and sealed subs are great.  For large rooms, vented works best and go for the 15 Hz and up output due to low cabin gain.

     

    Great.  Another rabbit hole to go down!   :unsure:

     

    Read through this thread and am all excited about making a couple of these: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1592098-diysoundgroup-s-stonehenge-build.html

     

    He used UXL-18s which are $550 each.  Would the Ultimax 18s work about as well? would save me a few hundred $$.  There is the possibility of an upcoming group buy on the UXL-18s which might help some with the price.

     

    If you answered my question in your graph above, I apologize.  I don't really know how to interpret them.  

  7. Scrappydue, the Ultimax and S.I. driver in your sub model so close, I doubt if it would make a difference in a sealed sub. I also think the S.I. likes a smaller vented box which is a plus if space is an issue.  The recommend vented box for the Ultimax is 11 cu ft. which is a big box.

     

    The HST-18 is recommended at 8 cubic feet tuned to 24 hz.  The Ultimax is 8 cubic feet at 20 hz.  If you want the ultimax tuned to subsonic frequencies, you make it 12 cubic feet then tune it to 15 hz but most people aren't going to do that.  I don't know what the recommendation for the cheaper HT-18's are.

    Lol...a 4x4 enclosure for 20hz??? Wow! I don't know if I can swing selling that to my wife.

  8. Starting to plan my sub builds since my screen and PJ are mounted.  I'm trying to decide between 2 15" or 2" sealed subs.  15" would probably be done using dayton ultimax drivers and the 18" with drivers from stereo integrity since (IIRC) that's what scrappy used.

     

    What is the difference in feel/sound between them?  I've heard an 18" can go lower but is slower and usually lacks the punch of a 15".  Is that correct?

     

     

    And while you're thinking about that...DIY Sound Group has a 3 cubit ft. flat pack for the 15" DT Ultimax and a 4 cubic ft. box for the same driver.  Is there any reason to choose the smaller one?  And why wouldn't the 4 cubic foot one list an 18" option?  I guess I can ask the peeps on the forum there.

     

     

    Thanks!

  9. I also take back any bad thing I ever said about "Gravity". The plot holes and other silliness seem to disappear once it is on a badass projector. Holy cow.

    The Purge, Anarchy though... yeah it's still silly.

     

    can't wait to watch it.  been saving it until i got my projector going.  

  10. So...I went with a 135" Silver Ticket screen and the Sony VPL-HW40ES pj.  I think I'm pretty happy with the setup.  My sound leaves a bit to be desired now that the speakers are farther apart.  Need to do some tweaking.

     

    The picture quality is good to very good.  We watched Guardians of the Galaxy the other day in 3D and it was stunning.  Netflix looks fantastic and I'll be watching a normal movie tonight to check out how a normal BR looks.  

     

    We moved the sitting position back to about 13.5" and now the side surrounds are about 18" in front of us.  Not sure if it's worth the effort of moving them back or not.  Kind of tired of patching up the walls.  We'll see.

     

    Anyhoo...here's the after pic.

     

     I'll be painting the front of the soffit the same color as the back wall and putting up a velvet-covered frame under the soffit and ceiling on the left...similar to what Edgar did with his setup.  Might put velvet curtains up as well on the two sides against the wall.

     

    And then new subs.

     

    And then....

     

     

    post-50408-0-09030000-1421941562_thumb.j

    • Like 2
  11. I'm almost done with the current iteration of my HT and know there's some calibration work required to make it sing.  For reference, I'm running (or will be by the end of this weekend) the following:

     

    Denon AVR-X4000

    RS 35 on the sides and back
    RF 35 in front
    RC 35
    HSU STF-3 Sub
    Sony VPL-HW40ES Projector
    Silver Ticket 135" screen
     
    I know there are ways for me to look up how to properly calibrate the receiver, projector, and find the best placement for the sub but frankly, I'm kind of tired of the whole process and just want to sit down and enjoy it.  Also, I'm probably going to build a couple of my own subs and will need help calibrating those as well.
     
    Is there a pro in the Indy area that can help with this?  I'm not looking to spend a ton of money but would like to get the most of out my system.  
     
    TIA!
  12. all right...it's been almost a year since i asked my last questions and i still haven't built them.  BUT...i have a Sony VPL-HW40ES on a UPS truck somewhere hopefully close to my house and a 135" screen hopefully on the way as well.  and since i have to rewire front and side surround speakers, i might as well just keep going and pre-wire for these subs since i still want to build them.

     

    1 - is it a bad idea to pre-wire subs since you don't really know where they should be placed without doing all the metering sorcery you guys all talk about?  

     

    2 - assuming i don't use onboard amps and use something like the following, what kind of speaker wire do i use in the wall to drive them?

     

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHINAS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1THPEY0T0GK11&coliid=I2S5YRCXZ9NFBS

     

    this is what i'm using to drive my current speakers:  http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2816&seq=1&format=2

     

    will it drive the subs?

  13. I recently went through the same question....what size should I go with?  Currently I have a 103" that is 11' from my front row.  I've never felt that totally immersive feeling you get when you go to the movie theater.  I bounced back and forth between a few sizes and even briefly considered going with a 16:9 but decided for my room, the best format is 2.35:1 since I watch about 90% bluray and only an occasional video game in 16:9.  My new screen will be a little closer so I will be around 10' with a 150".  It will be close to wall to wall with my speakers directly behind an AT Screen.

     

    You can see a video of my room in my signature.

     

    enjoyed your video.  i'll probably almost certainly go with 16:9 as we play a ton of video games in our house and i don't see that changing anytime soon.  

  14.  

    according to the calculator on projector central, i should be sitting 13' 8" away from a 135" screen.

    Yeah you didn't mention the actual seating distance earlier, I was thinking 10.5' was at a back wall. If you can get further away then go for it. The only other thing I noticed is that some of your choices are kinda close to the ground if you can recline.

     

    i'd have to move the side surrounds back a foot or two in order to have them directly to the side of my listening position.  i'm assuming having them directly to the side is important?

    Ideally they're supposed to be between 90-110 degrees. How important that is is debatable I suppose.

     

     

    110 degrees forward or back?

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