maxima95
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Posts posted by maxima95
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On 8/4/2019 at 8:18 PM, bkwa1959 said:
I am getting ready to upgrade a pair of Klipschorns with 2” tractrix horns,bms 4592nd mids,beyma cp-25 tweeters and ALK crossovers and I was going to upgrade wires.In the past I have used 14ga speaker wires and I was thinking of trying vintage 14ga western electric or new Duelund wires,both of those can get expensive .Has anyone tried the 2
In LaScala, I have tried WE 14 ga from X-over to mid, and WE 16 ga to tweeter. Prefer Duelund 16 ga to both mid and tweeter.
I suppose I could twist (2) Duelund 16 ga together to get a 13 ga and try that; but I am too lazy.
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I use a AA on the LaScalas (no tweeter protection circuit) which is around 6000 hz for the tweeter (8 ohms). Even though the Dayton Planar is 6 ohms, I would think this should be OK.
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Sorry to make a mountain out of a molehill. The stock crossover looks like a Type A. Not enough parts for a AA.
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Near 10 years seems about right. I would have to look at the email I got from Bob when I ordered them. They were in boxes for about 9 1/2 years.
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3-Way crossover/balancing network for Klipsch LaScala, Belle Klipsch or Klipschorn.Can be configured for either 4500 or 6000 hz crossover to the tweeter.NOTE: USE OF STANDARD K-77 TWEETERS CROSSED OVER at 4500 hz IS NOT RECOMMENDED. DAMAGE TO THE TWEETER MAY OCCUR.Very good condition. Very limited use.$179. Price includes shipping. Shipping within Continental US only.Also available for local pickup in the Washington, DC Metro area. Cash only.1) 400/4500Each of the Red and Black wires marked “1,2,3 and 4” are connected via the Male and Female quick connect ends2) 400/6000Disconnect the Red and Black wires marked “1,2,3 and 4”. Connect 3 Red and 4 Red.
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Beyma cp25 is my favorite but way too hot for a stock crossover.
The spec sheet below shows the CP 25 sensitivity as 104 db. I haven't heard it, but wonder why it would be too hot?
http://www.usspeaker.com/beyma%20CP25-1.htm
I have a DE-10 (approx. 107 db) with the stock horn and it needs attenuation.
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I think we'd all like to know the Klipsch engineers, by name, who think the... "inside of the cabinet is about the worse place there is for a network."
I am not interested in knowing the names of the Klipsch engineers.
Via a search, there are threads and pages that address the pros and cons of this issue.
First, you've got the WAF. Second, you've got the WAF. Third, have you ever tried dusting a network board filled with odd shaped nooks and crannies created by the inductors, capacitors, autoformers, swamping resistors, etc.? You'd end up doing more damage than any purported "mechanical and acoustical vibration" could.
I have had to remove the dust from my LaScala crossovers. I used the brush attachment and a vacuum cleaner and have never had any difficulty or caused any damage. I have also removed the dust from my 2A3 mono amps the same way.
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Why don't you offer some concrete evidence to prove this; better yet, post a link that everyone can read for themselves. I suspect this quote is just like one of dozens I've read that you've posted over the years---just subjective blather that some low-information members take as gospel.
Could you tell us what a "low-information" member is ?
Which "low-information" members are you referring to?
I take it you are a "high-information" member?
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I really hope there isn't any snake oil talk around here. Oh how I loathe.
There is little point in attempting to impose your view upon others. Clearly, others differ.
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Both K77's in the LaScalas no longer work and measure as open.
The Simply Speakers site shows a replacement diaphragm and a faceplate/diaphragm assembly.
It seems that the faceplate/diaphragm assembly, though more expensive, would be easier to install than the diaphragm.
Then there is the issue of the gasket not coming out intact. Has anyone successfully made one? If so, what did you use?
For anyone who has done the above replacement, how did the new diaphragm sound?
Any ideas or experiences would be appreciated.
I have other tweeters I can use. I still like to listen to the K77's now and then.
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The Minwax High performance Wood Filler referred to above is a 2-part mix, and is similar to Bondo. Have used them both interchangeably for years. The Minwax, if mixed per the instructions, takes longer to dry and seems to be a little easier to work with.
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Flat Washer for Horn
I have some new washers I purchased that I have not yet installed. But when I looked at them I saw, as you say, that they appear to block things a bit. I will likely make the hole larger before I install them. But, it would be interesting to see how the o-ring approach develops. It would also be nice to know if there is a reason for the size of the hole in the washers.
Metal Horn Damping
The metal K400 is simply unlistenable to me regardless of how well it is bolted. Having read a little bit about damping horns, and not wanting to damp too much at first, I used Dynamat Xtreme. This is thinner than Dynamat (though I recall reading that Xtreme was superior in the damping department). It wrapped around the horn very nicely. Fortunately, to my ears, it did not rob the horns of their liveliness or dynamics (which was the reason for the thinner Xtreme) or create other, worse problems. After a while, I tried a second layer a few inches in length only where the horn met the driver. It is a difficult balance to tame the ring/shout and not mess up everything else.
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I've got the information I need. Thanks.
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I would like to contribute, but I am not registered in Paypal. Is there another way to do this?
Rewiring Klipschorns
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I would like to hear a LaScala II (and the AL5 for that matter). I saw some pictures of the wiring in the LSII's on a site called HiFi Shock: https://www.hifishock.org/gallery/speakers/klipsch/la-scala-ii-3-klipsch/ I could not tell what kind it was; there was writing on the jacket, but I could not decipher it. It did appear to be 14 ga. Looked like nice wire.
In a YouTube video, "Klipsch La Scala AL5: Klipschorn Heritage with a Twist", Mark Casavant stated that the wiring in the AL5 is Audioquest. The Music Direct site for the AL5 states that the wiring is Audioquest Type 4.