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Posts posted by Mongo171
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Two pc-13 ultra would be in your budget if you get them on sale. Svs gives 5% off to return customers also so you would get 5% off on the 2nd sub even if its on sale. If you didn't get them on sale after the 5% it would be around 3300 for two. They also have 45 day full return (they pay shipping both ways). It use to be just on the new ultra speakers but they now have it on all products. So if your not happy send it back and get every penny back. Two 12+s would be awesome too (i have two) and would be plenty if your room and placement isn't somehow in the way. But to me after owning both i would get the ultra and be blown away. Im not saying it is or isn't worth the extra money but if you want the best bass you can get for a 3k budget and you want two subs get the ultras. That 13.5" driver by itself weighs as much as most 15" drivers and cabinet combined. Back when i got my first svs i looked at rythmik really hard and was very impressed with what i found.
+1 for the SVS PC13-Ultra. It digs deep, has a 60lb driver and a 1KW amp with 3600W peak power. It has a 16" footprint. I plan on getting my 2nd one early next year.
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Time to look into repairing the amp. I think there's a guy on ebay who fixes those amps.
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Heritage is not about a time period, (they have made the khorn from the beginning and still make it) Heritage is a product line. KLF's are great but they are not Heritage line, which would be Heresy, Belle, Khorn, LaScala, Cornwall
Those are the true Heritage line.
However, you also have the Chorus, Forte, Quartet and Academy as a newer line of Heritage.
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Quiet Hollow posted a nice piece on lowering the xo on the sub to around 50 Hz to better blend with the mains due to the filter slopes of the avr and subs pluse the roll off of the speakers. I am currently trying this and it dose seem like it get's rid of the mid bass bump. He can explain this much better than me. In the past I alway suggested turning the xo all the way up or disable it. Being on this forum, I am alway learning something new. This may work if the subs can be localized using a small setting.
Right now, I'm running my system xo at 80 and the sub xo at 40. It has really "opened up" the bass. I don't have measurement equipment, so I really don't know how the it is effecting the the dip between 40 and 80. All I know right now is that it just sounds better.
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Yours were built in 1997. Enjoy!
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I don't have a problem in the bass department two Danley TH115's and a TH118 .You need to open the mouth up to let the bass sing (smile)
Damaged Goods - TSCM type enclosures for the wet Klipschorns
You have to get another TH118 to even out the bass. []
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Welcome to the Forums!
Can you post the serial numbers?
They were built from 94 - 97.
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Might be the amp going south.
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Your RC-42 II should be set to Small. It simply can't handle the lower freqs. You should set the AVR's crossover to about 100Hz. You experiment from there as to what sounds good to you. The main difference between Large and Small is where is the lower freqs being sent. Smaller speakers can't handle the lower freqs, so they are steered to the sub. Even your 52 II's should be set to small. If I were you, I would upgrade the sub first. A 10" sub won't and can't go very far in HT.
Used or older models of surrounds can be used. All depends on how big you are going to go with your main speakers. Right now, any RS Series speaker should work for you. You don't have to go overboard with the surrounds. Something like an RS-42 will work fine. This is a hobby where the upgrade bug is ALWAYS hitting us. Welcome to the club!
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At least she's smiling. [:S]
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I love my OPPO 105. OPPO is still working out the kinks. But, it's an extraordinary piece of equipment.
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You can pull the woofers out and measure them.
The KV-3 has 95db sensitivity and the KLF-C7 has 99db sensitivity. The C7 should be twice as loud as the KV-3. Doubling the watts gives you +3db.
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I use digital auto-ranging multimeters. No ranges to figure out. Just turn on to the Ohms setting and measure.
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What are you on Safari after? Sounds like a blast. Thanks for the well wishes.
A photographic Safari in Tanzania and Kenya....Not Hunting......Currently in a National Park in Tanzania.
I took a safari in Kenya when I was in the Navy. Saw some beautiful animals.
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This was perhaps the warmest sounding receiver Marantz ever made...lol...
I think "crispy" is another adjective we can give to this receiver's sound.
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Hook up a multimeter to the binding posts, red and black terminals, on the back. It should read about 8 Ohms.
Next, I would take off the cup on the back, where the binding posts are, and look for burnt components on the crossover.
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I started singing that song when my son was born.
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I have owned my Chorus II's for over 18 years and the passives don't sag. They are still perky. If they did sag, I would get them reconed. Sagging is a sign that the surround has lost its function to perform at the tuned freq. Flipping the passive will not cause it to function properly. It will just sag in the other direction, if the whole surround is shot.
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Have you checked to make sure the wires are connected properly? The KLF-C7 is a VERY good center. Are you sure there isn't a problem with the C7? You can Ohm it out to check speaker resistance. Do you have a room correction that you can run?
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Give it a Botox injection.
Seriously, no need to fret unless it is producing a sound. Make sure it still moves smoothly. No need to be concerned right now. It may need to be reconed in the future.
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I can make a "cold" recording sound warmer by running it through an equalizer, but absent an equalizer, a high fidelity system should accurately reproduce the signal that it is fed, IMO.
A cold recording can be manipulated to sound different. Without any help, you get crap in/crap out. Specially with Klipsch speakers.
buying a heritage speaker that really isn't that old
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I was just reading what the Klipsch website says for those speakers. I guess Klipsch is wrong, then. []