Panacea Engineering
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The above was a trial fit. I made an Arc Slot for the rear screw which will allow me to turn the horn 60 degrees right or left......
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The base plates are complete and here are a few pictures..........
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I have to mention the DUST.....as I have a great amount of it also....I just try to wipe things down before I take pictures.......Richard...I appreciate your total honesty......![6]
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We will have to cut a piece of plywood to mount the bracket and K 402 to. When I ordered this I thought it was the complete assembly, but Nooooooooooooooo.......This is all the parts guy and I could come up with at the time. They are reworking their Inventory system and some of the SKU numbers were "Absent"....For lack of a better term. If anyone has a picture of what the piece of plywood looks, it would be greatly appreciated. It should mount to the two (rather large) Phillips screws, that are on top of the access panel. You can actually see the screws in this picture. they are on the left right behind the bottom horn flange.
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The Other end............
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The DX-38 came yesterday and the brackets arrived today.......!
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It is basically a Jube base bin cut in half. This drawing has been around for years and I do not know of anyone that has built it. Don't know what affect the short cabinet would have on the total sound, if two were stacked. I.m sure that someone has probably built it, but I would venture to guess, it was not a success, sound wise. That is probably why we haven't heard more about it...
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Longdrive,
Absolutely beautiful and excellent workmanship. Did you use a router on the face trim and the solid corners? The slight "Indent" really sets them off......!
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He inspected quite a few of the earlier speakers.............
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kuisis,
I have serial number 1151 that has the Stephens woofer in it. I also have serial number 1051 that has the two screw EV 15 WK woofer in it. I guess it just depended what they got to first on the shelf that particular day. Both of mine are Primevera. I also have a matching set of Primevera Verticle Cornwalls that go with the two K Horns serial number 120 and 121 from 1960.
W. C.
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In the case of your K-33-E Woofer, the E stands for Electro Voice and the woofer is actually a EV 15 W (Possibly WK) Bow Tie 15" Woofer, that has been relabeled with the Klipsch V Logo.. Small worlds as I have serial numbers 120 and 121 of this same speaker. Yours should have a slot port all the way down the middle of the back. There also should be a red arrow on the back as they should be what is called Verticle Cornwalls which means they can also be laid on their sides. The Mid Horn should be verticle.
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Beatbrother,
THX Certified is a specific set of signals that your receiver decodes. If your receiver were THX Certified, it would have a stamp on the face plate saying so along with the myriad of other signals that it can decode. Aparently, your Anthem is NOT a THX receiver. That has NO bearing on its quality, as it could just be an older receiver. I would venture to guess that all you need to your THX amp is the Sub out cable and there should be no need to split it. For now leave the THX amp on the non THX setting. When you upgrade to a receiver or pre/pro that IS THX Certified, make the change to the THX setting then. In the THX mode, the amp is just looking for a specific signal from the receiver or pre/pro. I hope this helps, but not being there and seeing the connections or equipment, I am only guessing as to the configuration. Feel free to try different configurations as you may find that it sounds better another way. Your THX System should sound great with any move that you play and the Anthem is a fine receiver.
Hope this helped and I am sure some others may jump in, that may have more experience with your particular set up,
W. C.
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Beatbrother,
Is this where you purchased your Fiber Optics?
http://trinorthlighting.com/Store/index.php?cPath=8&main_page=index
Your HT is going to be great.....! The ceiling truly makes the room....Great job....!
W. C.
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I find it amazing, that a eight thousand dollar Powermatic HPS Saw can make the same mistakes, that a 49.95 hand hand held Skil Saw can make.....Go figure......!
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Mark,
We are waiting on the Brackets and the DX-38 to arrive........and YES, I have been fighting the urge to listen to them through the passives.....! Again, I am not too comfortable with the "Stick" that I have supporting the TAD driver, at the moment....
W. C.
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Edit: As far as Roy's settings go, unles you get an EV processor all bets are off. You can enter his settings but probably will only come close in performance due to differences in processors. That said, you can use various software tools to improve the approximation. I know I'm not exact but very close. It's satisfying enough.
We are hopefully, going to be getting a loaner DX - 38, as I actually want to set them up with Roy's settings, like the majority of the other K 402's are running. That is supposed to be the "TRUE" Comparitor for the testing.....you know 'Does this sound better than that?".......
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Mark,
That's what I was kinda thinking. Replacing the passive M - 4's on the MCM's would be great, but I must say that the crossovers really do a pretty stellar job. You know the old addage: "If it's working, why mess with it" thing.......The 4 x 10 sure does open up a bunch of options. Yes, I would also like to hear from Dave before I pull the trigger on 500 dollars for a play thing.....[
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There is another thread going on about MiniDSP's. I'm kind of wondering if this might be a good test bed for one of them, since we are trying multiple drivers and will ultimately, I am sure, want to play with cross points and slopes. If you guys would reccomend the one to get to try, I will certainly order it and see how it works for this application. I have purely always been a passive guy but I am certainly willing to give new technology a go. From what I have read, it looks like all of the needed settings are easily entered through a LapTop connection (USB) and I would presume that Roy's settings could also be entered into the MiniDSP.
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Mike,
Not yet, as I am really waiting on the Bracket Assembly to come, as it has a plate that goes on the flange of the K 402 and THEN I will put something in there to seal it. This has all been a drill, align and dry fit day. I just might ahve to hook the speaker wires up tomorrow though, as the suspense is killing me......![6]
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Mike,
I am hoping to get the actual TAD adapters for 2", but for testing purposes, the Martin Adapters work just fine.........
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Mike,
You are, of course right, as they all are Metric and 1/4-24 is pretty damn close to 6 mm and 5/16-24 is VERY close to 7 mm. I'm sorry, as I was just purely too lazy to do the Metric thing. The bolts I used are actually ALL Metric....sorry if I caused any confusion. I have been known to use a Metric wrench on SAE Bolts...........and vice versa.......!
W. C.
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BTW.....The Beyma CP 750ND bolted right up to the K 402. NO testing today, but we have a great start on tomorrow and actually, the Budweiser is rulling the rest of the afternoon................[
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It is finall mounted and ready to play some music through except for the fact that I am waiting on a Bracket Assembly, to support the driver, which should be here Monday.......The piece of 3/4" scrap for support just isn't cutting it.
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Well as was expected....The bolt patteren on the TADS matched absolutely NOTHING on the Adapter, so....Back to the Drill Press for new holes....can anyone say Swiss cheese.....?
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Driver Comparison for the K 402 Horn
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Another shot.......All we have left to do is cut the gaskets and install the Horn/Driver