Caio Ferrari
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Posts posted by Caio Ferrari
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I'd like to thank you guys for the thoughts.
I decided to keep the Rb 51, they sound pretty decent to me. I sold my Yamaha and I'm using a pretty small class AB amp with 35W that is more than enough for the Klipsch.
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7 hours ago, RandyH 000 said:
------------if you have any problems just make sure to act before the warranty ends --------
Sure!
The problem is NAD doesn't provide any support in my country ...
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12 hours ago, Outrider 6 said:
I have an NAD D3020. It takes optical and analog inputs, as well as Bluetooth. I like it a lot.Its small enough to take with me to audition speakers. So far, it’s driven:
- KG .5, 2.0, & 4.0
- Heresy I and La Scala
- Quartet, Forté II, & Chorus I
Worked well with each of them. The more sensitive (efficient) the speaker, generally the better the amp performs.
I would start your search another way. One constraint is size. Another is sound pressure level. How loud do you need your system to get? A school dance is 101 - 106 dB. Some larger Klipsch can generate this much sound with one watt of signal.
D3020 and a set of Quartets could be a good start...
I've heard a 3020D when I was in USA and until today I regret not buying one for me. I got a huge and unnecessary S501 instead.
I got worried about reliability issues with these newer amps with SMD components and got an old school amp.
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23 hours ago, willland said:
I would say use a small form factor amp with plenty of features and keep the RB-51IIs. Not a big fan of speakers with built-in amps due to reliability issues.
Bill
That's an issue. I'm aware that these powered speakers has some issues. The problem is that since I'm not in USA, I cannot have Klipsch support in case of any problem...
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On 2/21/2019 at 12:21 AM, ACV92 said:
Just curious if any of you use QSC pro amps to run your mains. I've been wanting to put more power/control to the 5.5's. A guy locally is asking $175 for a barely used QSC GX3. Don't know if it's worth a shot. I'm currently running a Marantz SR 8002 AVR to run them. Marantz is rated at 125 per channel. QSC is 300 per channel, or there about. My question is sound quality. Would the old Marantz sound better than the QSC? The 8002 would become the pre for now. Thoughts are appreciated.
In my experience there's not much difference between modern solid state amplifiers.
If you measure them, you'll find low distortion on HiFi amps but there is not a really audible difference, at least with a non hi-end speakers.
But this area has a lot of controversy and it's really hard to debate about it without fighting. The only thing that is well know on engineering is about having a amp with plenty of power. Since music is a complex signal with a lot of short therm peaks, is good to have a amp capable to reproduce them without clipping.
The thumb rule says that if you want to get the most power of your speakers without chance of clipping you have to get an amp with 4x the power of speaker. Of course it only valid if you really wants to reach the maximum SPL levels.
If you listen music at normal levels, spending money on high power amps is just a waste.
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15 hours ago, billybob said:
Well, there is nothing wrong with your choices and if they have what you need then yes.
The Yamaha AS-501 is a desireable amp.
Read reviews on your 2 candidates.
Thanks!
Thank you
Since I can't listen to R-51PM I'm asking about it sound signature compared to RB-51II.
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I live in a very small apartment and the Yamaha is too big for my rack. It has a lot of inputs or outputs that I don't use. It a waste of space and equipment.
I'd like to have a minimalist system that just got my needs
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Hello!
Today I have a pair of RB-51II, a Yamaha A-S501, a Crown XLS amp for a DIY Sub.
I listen some CDs with a Marantz CD5005, a spotify through a Chromecast Audio and a TV using a optical cable.
I'm getting bothered with my system size and considering a downsizing.
The first thing I thought was a smaller amp like a Yamaha Wxa 50 or a NAD 3020D. But then I saw the Klipsch R-51PM with all inputs that I really use: optical for TV, AUX for Chromecast and a RCA for the CD and the sub output that I need.
What do you guys thinks about that? Will I lost too much about sound quality ?
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No one?
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Room picture of
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Hi
I'm looking for an upgrade for my stereo. I have a pair of RB51II used for a stereo setup in a very small living room. The dimensions are 7ft vs 8,3 ft and a 10ft of right foot.
I was thinking at the new RP line because people say it was improvements are tweeter response, sounding less harsh. But I'm a little confused about two things:
Does worth the upgrade for the new line?
Does worth getting a bigger speaker in a such small room?
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5 hours ago, wvu80 said:
That 500 watt Bash plate amp sounds great. And yes, it is too much for your 10" sub, but all you have to do is turn the gain down and I think you'll be fine.
A bonus will be if you decide to upgrade to a 15" DIY sub, the Bash 500 is a perfect choice.
Yes, I'll go for it. It's the cheapest and simplest way to get a decent sub right now.
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57 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
You may be right as not all Class D amps sound the same. But for sheer NEUTRALITY, POWER, MICRO DETAILS, DYNAMICS, LOW NOISE, ETC. nothing beats my Hypex Class D amps.
I've owned just about all of the others. Tubes and classes alike.
I'm pretty sure we can get excellent results from a Class D amp. There's some HiFi companies designing these and getting great reviews around. It's true Class D is the simplest way to design cheap amps either. And I bet Behringer choose the second way to go!
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On 07/01/2018 at 7:59 PM, wvu80 said:
Why is it that nobody, ever, recommends an Inuke for left/right mains as an external amp, such as the Behringer Inuke 3000?
The Inuke 3000 w/dsp costs around $300 rated at 315 watts into 8 Ohms, Class D power from 20 Hz to 20 Khz. They are wildly popular as sub amps but I've never understood why these aren't used as power amps for L/R or as an low frequency amp for L/R bi-amped.
" A built-in crossover switch enables the amp to operate in biamp mode, sending low frequency content to passive subwoofers, while the high frequency output is channeled to full range loudspeakers."
I'll tell you about my personal experience.
I've always used a Pro amp with my Klipsch. It´s a low power AB Class amp, from a brazilian make, I think you guys doesn't know it.
It's a 35WPC amp and it sounds ok for me. Low distortion, low noise, everything ok by the book.
I aways think those discussion about amplifier sonic signatures are nonsense. Speakers has sonic signatures, not power amps. Right?...
Two weeks ago I got a Yamaha A-S501 and WOW! What a difference! Even my wife came to me asking about that. She thinks I changed the speakers, not the amp.
Now, lets back to Behringer. It's not a great amp even at the pro market, they make cheap products. It's a Class D amp, which is hard to sound good at higher frequencies... And I bet high quality speakers like Klipsch will show every weakness from a low grade amp.
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2 hours ago, wvu80 said:
My first thought as well. A 300 watt plate amp would be more than enough for a ten inch sub. Use a regular plate amp for ported, bass boost for sealed. The Yung 300 watt amps are $109, that's a good price.
https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=plate amplifier&sitesearch=true
Once I live in Brazil, it's not easy for me buying something on parts-express. But I've found here a used Bash 500S. Maybe it's a nice choice for me.
I think it'll be more powerful than 110SW
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1 minute ago, baron167 said:
You have a Sub Out, correct? I would look at active sub, But, you know how you are annoyed running the second amp for your passive sub? You will likely be annoyed by having to adjust the volume of the active sub. Pick your poison? Good luck!
Yes, my current integrated amp has sub out. I don't dont need to adjust the sub volume
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I'm in doubt if 110SW is better than my current DIY sub...
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Hi nicesound
I don't agree you I'll fry your speakers with a Yamaha or it doesn't deliver the rated lower.
If you look around the Internet you'll see some power output measurements that shows more power than rated.
These quality integrated amps deliver the output power with a very low distortion, so no way it will blow up you speakers.
When I was looking for my amp I saw:
Yamaha
Marantz
Onkyo
Pionneer
Rotel
NAD
Cambridge
Emotiva
There are a lot of options out there. The cheaper ones usually have cheaper components and higher distortion at full power.
When you look for a sub out and a digital in, you'll narrow your options. NAD and Marantz has sub outs at more expensive models only.
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I agree there is nothing wrong with that. The problem is I live in a small apartment, so my living room is very small. I don't have empty spaces and add one more sub is a overkill for me.
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Just a little more:
Class A or Tube amps usually have low power, because costs a lot to make those things get hundreds of watts. But, they're not cheap either, they're a very nice quality pieces.
Entry level integrated amps usually has 30 - 60W and they're cheap. I mean, making a version with less power like, 20W would save you just a few bucks and probably you'd paying a little more for the more powered version anyway. The price tag is not all about output power.
I was looking for a integrated amp for me.
Just to save you some time: NAD, Cambridge (Topaz line is very cheap) and Marantz doesn't have sub output or Optical in.
The options for you are Yamaha A-S301 which has all you want or NAD-3020D which is a little limited about inputs and its a little hard to fix because all that proprietary processors and components to make that thing work.
I got the Yamaha and I'm happy with it.
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There are two things to watch here:
Low power: Yes, Klipsch speakers are very efficient. So, 10W are more than enough to make some noise at your room.
Cheap amplifier: Usually it mean low quality. You can get a class A amp from china websites (TPA3116 based amps) and get what you want: Least expensive amp.
But, why spend a lot of money on great speakers like a Premier and buy a cheap amp?
I mean, it's not all about power. Usually the amps have like 40 - 60W because doesnt worth making less than that. The cost would be about the same.
Yamaha 301 is a great amp for a 2.1 setup. I have it's big brother (501) and I can tell you its worth the price. I don't use its 85W though
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19 minutes ago, JohnA said:
If you built a good subwoofer, you should build another one and place them both near the middle of opposite walls in your room. More woofer area allows less excursion for the same sound level and thus less distortion. More bass sources smooth bass response throughout the room.
Subwoofers are the easiest speaker systems to design and build. Can you build another? Or two 12" subs that dig down to at least 30 Hz, in room?
Did you expect that answer?
No, I really didn't
But, my point is having a external amp for my sub is really annoying me. Should I invest in a amp like Bash to keep it inside the sub?
I have a pretty good sub here: Fs 26Hz; Qts 0,33; VAS 74L
Is it possible it's a best option over Klipsch 110W driver?
My room is really small. I don't think my problem is SPL though. Maybe it's time to think about making this sub ative...
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Hi there,
I have a 2.1 system which is composed by:
- Yamaha A-S501 integrated
- pair of RB51II
- A DIY 10" sub with a professional amplifier (using only one channel)
It bothers me a little having a "two head" system (Yamaha + Stereo amp half used for Sub) and I'd like to change it.
What I'm thing about:
- Change the sub for a Klipsch 110SW and put the professional amp away.
- Change the RB51II and look around for a used RB61II or a brand new 160M and stay without sub.
I listed to music 80% of the time. Movies are not my deal, so, all my attention goes to music. What you guys recommend for me?
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I know they aren't. But I got a great improvement when I change the amps. When I listened de RB51 with a good amp with a lot of power reserve (HK3490) I got very satisfied with the bass.
My amp is just weak and I don't know why. Even powering a good subwoofer it seems to cut off the lower frequencies.
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I just don't believe that I'll get a lot of bass from it's 45W and they're too expensive for the output power IMHO.
I already have a 35W amp here, doesn't worth spend mor money for the extra 10W.
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Advice to replace R-14m with RP Series
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I've never heard the R-14m but I'll assume it sounds like Reference II line.
I compared the Reference II with Reference Premiere here at my room and I noticed that the RP is a Reference with the loudness button on.
It has a strong bass and a strong upper highs with no mids.
I'm a big fan of 2.1 configuration, so a strongly suggest you to keep your sub and choose a pair of books to play with it. It's pretty hard to find a floorstander that plays bass like a sub.
Instead of spending money with new speakers, I'd try to equalize your speakers a little bit. Do a subtractive EQ at mids doesn't hurt at all and can surprise you.