001
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Posts posted by 001
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15 minutes ago, Pashco.Ceo said:
I'll clip and paste it. One sec. fyi, it clearly says something like that.
Alerts!
Want to alert forum members to sales you are not affiliated with on eBay, Craigslist, etc? Post in here.
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- AS MENTIONED, this was my first post to actually create and with it saying that when I haven't listed it any other place, it surely makes a newcomer think they better post in ALERTS! I can see what the person who wrote it meant it to be, but it clearly can be taken the way I assumed it meant.
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the statement says the alerts section is for sales you are not affiliated with on ebay etc. it doesn't mean that if you havent posted your personal item in those places yet to put them in the alerts section.... key phrase is "sales you are not affiliated with" meaning items that are not yours.
everyone can misunderstand or misinterpret typed words, but that statement reads pretty clear.
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Just now, OO1 said:
talk about the imposter .... 001 is Randy , and you aint never been Randy ., go hide in a corner
who's randy ? 001 was a open free user name, i just wanted to be cool & change my user name every 30 days
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1 hour ago, billybob said:
Someone take those copper badges off those imposters.
& buy the imposter badges off ebay
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15 minutes ago, Oicu812 said:
Re-read my thread title.
why? re read my comment
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those are cherry ...
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those arent klipsch anymore...
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14 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
Where does it say that?
it doesnt say anything like that in the garage sale rules, but whoever wrote the rules is an " " ....
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i dont have those in my forte or forte 2 or any of the 3 pairs of chorus 3 i have had. almost looks like something someone added for some reason, looks like its about the size of the passive center hole where the weight goes but cant see any reason or purpose for it. is the sticky side sticky or still have a film covering the sticky part? any signs or residue of where it might have went? you dont recall where it was when you took the other parts out?
curious to see what others say but i got nothin besides knowing those weren't/aren't in any of my forte/chorus. .
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On 7/22/2022 at 8:01 PM, Chief bonehead said:
I have answered the question. But one more…..ask me the question and I will try again.
thanks for offering to explain again, my apologies if i missed the answer in some other threads... i quoted you on the AK2 thread with specific questions but never got a reply... so i will keep it short & copy & paste the jist of the questions from this thread.
1st was what you said on this thread earlier... how would changing 2 mid/tweet caps hurt the bass in the OPs speakers if they have nothing to do with the woofer itself? he said the prev owner sold them due to lacking bass & your reply was because he changed caps. a couple members said it increased brightness in the mids/tweets but that wont make the bass any less, will it? my experience using PP caps on a few different klipsch including my chorus 2 didnt decrease the bass at all, if anything it was tightened up & a little more pronounced. just curious how mid/tweet caps will affect bass output like the OP was explaining.
the other 2 main questions i asked in the AK2 thread linked below if you care to read it but it got rather long with all the other replies, i repeated them here when asked about but i tried to avoid that on this thread, although the OP has left the thread after the 1st couple posts then it went off track... but here is the copied questions regarding voltage curve changes from PP caps or PE caps. i can start a new thread if you prefer. again, simple explanations the average person can try to understand are all im looking for, like a "voltage curve for dummies" & what that change actually means to what we will (or will not) hear. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/122634-1986-klipschorn-ak-2/page/2/
>how much of a voltage curve change is there using the average PP cap like sonicaps, is it measurable or ever been documented? what does that change in voltage curve actually do to the average speaker for what we can hear? is it .10 of a db, .25? at what freq? if it is that small is that really a big deal? will it damage something? i realize that they may change the original voltage curve, im just not seeing anything about how much &/or what that change actually does to the freq response or db of a speaker. myself & countless others are very happy with PP caps & they have been for decades. i realize thats not always easy to pinpoint but the statements suggest it will ruin the sound signature of the speaker, ive never experienced that myself & most others havent either.
>the other question is if PP caps are bad & change things too much, then how about the same type of stock PE caps but a different brand? will using ERSE polyester caps for example be closer to the original ESR & voltage curve or are they bad too? have other brands of PE caps been compared to stock or jem? main reason for that questions is cost related & possibly quality, ERSE stresses some points on why their caps are better than other brands & they cost less than a dollar each for most values. but i understand if you dont want to comment on that, would be nice to know some details of jem caps quality vs others.
-- after 3+ weeks still no answer to what should be pretty simple capacitor questions.. just the typical ambiguous comments followed by...
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13 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
lol, I wasn't singling you out, it was in reference to everything on that particular page - there were several long posts.
Many examples of transfer functions in that document.
"A filter is a circuit whose transfer function, that is the ratio of its output to its input, depends upon frequency."
https://ecstudiosystems.com/discover/textbooks/basic-electronics/filters/transfer-functions/
If your question is "how much", I would say enough to hear it, and everyone has to make up their own mind whether it's an issue for them or not.
i didnt take it as singled out, my quote was just a LOL to how long that document was, i had a somehwat long post on another thread asking these questions & you said someone had to pay you to read all of it... LOL
thanks again for the info, i could follow some of it but it didnt directly address the questions ive asked a few times now, mainly- how much of a voltage curve change is there using the average PP cap like sonicaps from crites, is it measurable or been documented? what does that change in voltage curve actually do to the average speaker for what we can hear? is it .10 of a db, .25? if it is that small is that really a big deal? will it damage something? i realize that they may change the original voltage curve, im just not seeing anything about how much &/or what that change actually does to the freq response or db of a speaker. myself & countless others are very happy with PP caps & they have been for decades. i realize thats not always easy to pinpoint but the statements suggest it will ruin the sound signature of the speaker, ive never experienced that myself & most others havent either, at least not to the point of ripping out the PP caps.
the other question is if PP caps are bad & change things, then how about the same type of caps but a different brand. will using ERSE polyester caps for example be closer to the original ESR & voltage curve or are they bad too? have other brands of PE caps been compared to stock or jem? main reason for that questions is cost related & possibly quality, ERSE stresses some points on why their caps are better than other brands & they cost less than a dollar each for most values.
i also realize this is a brand specific forum & some members are diehards for originality or that the engineer of the speaker doesnt like when people change the parts from stock, doesnt mean its a bad thing, almost anything can be improved from stock form. if anyone has ventured outside this forum, its clear to see that all kinds of people prefer changes or different parts made to these speakers & crossovers to improve or dare i say modify the sound. some places make a living or very good money doing it for decades.. volti, ALK, crites, etc.
thats basically it, 2 or 3 questions about directly comparing a popular PP cap to originals. then any info on comparing to the same type of PE caps since most have said PP caps have so much less ESR, most PE caps should be very close i would guess. i know i can word things a little long sometimes, just trying to be thorough since its easy to misunderstand or overlook the points.
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2 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
"someone will have to pay me to read all of that"... kidding, but thanks for the pdf file on how crossovers work in general. i read it all but didnt see anything regarding what the different voltage curve from a sonicap will do to the sound or function of a speaker vs stock caps that i have asked about... or how changing 2 mid/tweet caps will hurt or change the bass. unfortunately for myself & most others on here, we are not electrical engineers, most of that info is above our understanding or unrelated to what i have asked for a more simple explanation that the average person can understand or equate to what they will actually hear.
im not trying to be difficult asking this & it really shouldnt be so difficult to answer, even in layman's terms. its kind of like if a person that doesnt understand internal combustion engines or cars in general asking why a certain camshaft will increase horsepower over another one, or why adding less restrictive exhaust increases power... or even something simple like why they need to change worn out shocks or ball joints to keep the tires from wearing unevenly etc etc. its usually pretty easy to explain things to others that dont fully understand a certain subject in terms they can grasp. but the childish minion videos are a huge help.
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1 hour ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
He's provided the explanation several times.
where? not to any of the questions ive asked him.
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20 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
It's amazing what you can get out of Roy if you know the secret code. The problem with the secret code is that it's "secret". Quite the inconvenience. You also need the decoder ring. I don't have that yet.
obviously i dont know the secret code nor do i have a decoder ring... its clear that a simple question asking for a very basic explanation on some of the comments made about changing caps, even to the same type, are ignored. apparently its off limits to ask klipsch to explain these things... i guess we will just never get it.
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21 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
It's still a Mustang, but ...
"There's a type of electronic fuel injection that was very popular in the 1980's, 90s, and two thousands, that used a manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor to determine the mass flow rate of the air going through the engine. Typically, when the engine would go to wide open throttle, the amount of air pressure inside the intake manifold would be equal to the barometric pressure. If the exhaust system were to be improved by removing a simple cast exhaust manifold and replacing it with a performance header, the air flow rate will go up. As the MAP sensor will still be reading barometric pressure, the computer system will have no way to detect the extra air. In this way, the engine will run leaner and could damage the exhaust valves or the tops of the pistons."
true to a point, usually has to be extremely lean condition to actually damage valves or pistons & just changing to better flowing mufflers or even adding headers wont cause that or any other damage. tuning on the lean side within reason creates power in carb'd or EFI engines. but for the last 20 years or so, most guys that do any major mods like that to an older system that cant compensate for the changes will have their cars computer tuned by a professional or since the 60's have the carb modded for the changes like cams, exhaust or head porting etc. but i see your point that mods can change things that the rest of the system may not be able to support.... but its still a mustang, only better.
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2 hours ago, Frank Lesniak said:
thanks
you're welcome..
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Just now, Edgar said:
This brings up something about which I've been meaning to comment for a while, now.
ESR may not be the culprit. Understand that ESR (equivalent series resistance) in crossover capacitors is milliOhms or tens of milliOhms. (1 milliOhm is 1/1000 Ohm.) Furthermore, if you replace a 50 milliOhm ESR capacitor with a 1 milliOhm ESR capacitor, all you have to do to bring things back to where they were before is add 49 milliOhms of resistance. A piece of thin wire can do that.
There is more to capacitors than just capacitance and ESR. For example, there is stray inductance. Now, the inductance in crossover capacitors is so small that their self-resonance typically falls well above the audio range, but perhaps it shouldn't be neglected. There are other parasitic effects, too, and they must play into this somehow, else all capacitors would sound the same.
i am able to understand & accept that changing caps changes things, the question some inquiring minds want to know is at what point does that actually affect or change the sound or function of the speaker for the average listener? if most cant hear these very subtle changes & it doesnt damage anything, why all the fuss? some people like slight changes like brighter overall sound or changing older models to titanium tweeter diaphragms etc.
the car analogies still applies here, if you change the mufflers on your mustang for better sound & increased performance due to better air flow from the restrictive cost limited stock mufflers, is that bad or does it make it not a mustang anymore because the new better mufflers arent authorized by ford?
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18 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
If the capacitors you choose bring the midrange and tweeter forward, you will hear less bass.
that may be the perception to some, but the bass itself remains the same & doesnt just go away so much so that will cause the OP & the speakers prev owner to say the bass is all but gone... you just get a little more brightness from the lower ESR. vast majority of crites upgrades ive heard may say sonicaps caused more brightness, but ive never heard it reduced the bass. ive never used sonicaps but the budget PP caps i have used have never hurt or changed the bass, im able to differentiate increased brightness from loss of bass. but thanks for the reply.
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3 minutes ago, Edgar said:
Playing Devil's Advocate here: In a passive network, everything affects everything else. All of the components interact. Some of the interactions are minor, even negligible. Some are not. One would have to do a full circuit analysis and sensitivity study to quantify the effects.
Personally, I'm skeptical that changing capacitors in the mid/tweet section affects the bass in any significant way. But a full analysis could prove me wrong.
thanks. i can see how everything affects everything else... im trying to understand how changing a couple caps in the mid/tweet section to the same value as original (but lower ESR) can cause a speaker to lose bass? the OP is saying the bass output is severely lacking/anemic & the reply was its because he modified the crossovers... but the only thing changed were a couple mid/tweet caps.
like you said, im not sure how that would just kill the bass because of changing 2 caps in a part of the crossover unrelated to the woofer/bass. unfortunately myself & majority of others on here are not able to do a full analysis... so i thought asking a simple question might get some explanation from the source or other "reputable" person with knowledge on these things.
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14 hours ago, Chief bonehead said:
Absolutely true. So many people just don’t get it.
so many people just dont get it because its never really been explained here... even when asked about.
14 hours ago, Chief bonehead said:It is most likely that your “modded” network has a different voltage curve than was intended. A 1/4 db over a wide bandwidth can absolutely change the spectral balance.
in an effort to understand this, how does changing 2 caps in the mid/tweet section change the bass freq or output of a speaker? the crites crossovers & kits use the same spec electolytic caps for the woofers & doesnt change anything else in the network related to the bass/woofer. in all of the klipsch & other brands of speakers i have changed mid/tweet caps in, it has never changed or hurt the bass. some even say changing the possibly out of spec lytic caps actually helped the bass.
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few things to mention, the room & speaker position play a huge roll in how they sound, especially for bass. as mentioned, move around the room & notice how the bass changes, usually it will get much stronger at the rear wall of the room & in those corners, for rectangular rooms theres usually a very dead spot around half way, thats where mine is in a 23x14 room, due to canceling waves of the bass freq. for speaker position, in or near corners will get the best bass but at least a couple feet off the side wall & 1-2 foot or more off the rear wall but not too far away as that will hurt the bass due to the rear passive. sometimes the corner loading of the room can make the bass too much & will become boomy, my chorus 2s do that when real close to the corners.
the K48 woofer is hard to beat for any home audio brands, but trying to experiment with other woofers will likely cause mis match to the cabinet tune & volume, gotta know what youre doing with things like that. the k48 is used in the PRO line up & is at least 2 times beefier & handles a lot more power than the woofers in the fortes or most other models of this era or the heritage models. others have recommended a current eminence model, they made many of the klipsch woofers. i dont think the woofer is the problem.
another thing to realize is the chorus 2 dont go overly low for bass, only 39hz, there is a lot of bass below that for most modern music & definitely movies. the chorus have very strong bass within their freq range, but a good sub will add that missing octave & improve the higher bass punch too.
the crossovers shouldnt be causing bass problems, at least not the capacitors since they are in the mid & high signal path. there is a electrolytic for woofer but most say its not in the signal path so doesnt have an effect on bass, if its gone out of spec it will let some higher freq through but not harm the lower freq. the rest of the crossover components dont usually go bad so that shouldnt be an issue but always worth looking to see if they've been messed with or have an obvious failed or damaged part.
last thing to mention is a minor mod that was suggested from a long time (former?) member here moray james who has done all kinds of modifications to speakers, you can lower the tuning of the speaker box a few hz by adding 1-1.5oz of weight to the rear of the passive cone, some have tried it & said it made a slight improvement, others frown upon it or any mods for various reasons or just that its not how it was designed... while that may be true, many mods & upgrades can make almost any speaker better than it was originally designed, especially these vintage models.
hope some of that helps you find some better bass on your chorus2.
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seems like a legit ad from a seller that doesnt look at ebay prices or other inflated prices. i sent a message & got a fast reply with info on coming look at them today.... im nowhere near him & already sold 2 pair of Khorns recently, but from what i can tell it is not- "too good to be true...."
some peoples glass will always be half empty.
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CL: Khorns ( Fort Myers )
in Alerts!
Posted
too good to be true ..... ......... 88 K-horns 3.5k$