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Everything posted by 001

  1. the K-48 woofer is awesome, but chorus only go down to like 45hz... a good sub adds so much to the bottom end that is missing on speakers that only go down to 40-50hz. the SVS sb16 ultra is an excellent sub for music or movies, definitely up to the task of complementing chorus or any other boxed klipsch speaker.
  2. no clue on whats actually allowed or not, that was kind of left up in the air. but it was made pretty clear that people or companies that do crossover work can't be mentioned.... i hope its OK to talk about other brands of tweeters, mid drivers, or some woofers that may not be available anywhere else if/when replacements are needed. im fine with this being a klipsch forum or keeping discussions inline with what they approve, the only confusion now is that this section is called "modifications" and since day one it was to discuss... modifications, of any name or brand. maybe it would be a good idea to make a list/sticky of what is allowed or off limits? or change/remove the modifications part of this section? reason being, there is & will always be new(er) members that come here unaware & start talking about things that aren't allowed. just seems like problems waiting to happen.
  3. FYI: they all look like walnut, the title says "walnut oil oak" , probably just a typo but wanted to point that out. seems like a very good price for all the speakers, bet the fortes sound great! the academy can be shipped for a decent price using a box from home depot & some bubble wrap/styrofoam. ive shipped a couple of them as well as similar size KG 2.5s just a couple weeks ago. both KGs were $50 via fedex & arrived safe & sound. GLWS!
  4. not off topic, the thread is about other brands of speakers you listen to. i have heard many polks back in the day (late 80's-2000s) they were all middle of the line models but they sounded pretty good for their size/price. when def tech came out i listened in audio stores before i could afford them, they were great sounding speakers for music & movies. def tech ran its course with many good models over the years, but when they were bought out by sound united the quality went downhill compared to the 7000 or earlier models. mr gross then started golden ear, i have only briefly heard the smaller bookshelf models but they all get 5 star reviews from everything ive read over the last ~5 years. will grab a set if/when they pop up on the used market but they rarely come up for sale.
  5. a good friend of mine worked at ultimate electronics in my city in the late 90s & early 2000s, thats where i heard def techs for the 1st time after seeing their ads in stereo review magazines. ultimate had the traditional listening room with many other speakers lined up along a wall & a bunch of receivers/amps on another wall, you could change between any speaker/receiver with the touch of a button. the gold woofer reference klipsch were new at that time too, i spent a lot of time comparing all the speakers & receivers, the klipsch & other brands sounded OK but when the def techs were switched on it was easy to tell they had a much bigger, smoother, room filling sound, better bass too. i was hooked on them right away & for the price felt they were the best speakers ultimate carried. being in my 20's & mostly broke i was able to get floor models or blems for less than wholesale price. def tech was started by the guy that started polk, sandy gross, he created some nice models during his time there but just like many older brands do, sold def tech to a big mother company, its called sound united that owns lots of current brands like denon, marantz, boston, classe & many others. quality & customer service went downhill real quick & he formed a new company called golden ear that get excellent reviews. lots of options for great sounding speakers out there.
  6. i have used Definitive Technology speakers for 25+ years for home theater use & some 2 channel music. my main 2ch system is klipsch of various models over the years, KG5.5, CF4 v2, K-horns, forte2 & chorus2 & countless others in between. currently have the chorus set up with dual SVS subs. not many here have heard def techs or will give them a chance, but they are excellent speakers for movies & music, the bi-polar design provides a big room filling sound that doesnt require a "sweet spot" yet still gives very good imaging & stereo separation in the sweet spot. the earlier non powered tower models that are TL ported (transmission line) they go down to 32hz & have decent efficiency in the upper 90's. klipsch have a stronger mid & can go louder with less power, but if you have a decent SS amp/AVR the def techs can get just about as loud with clear full range sound that is never unbalanced or over powering in the mid range. for movies, they can do things direct radiator speakers cant. i also have the powered models with built in subs that are also very nice & provide very strong bass, benefit being they have 2 subs without the need for added space of separates, but higher quality separates are a much better option if you have the space or can afford them. have owned many other brands of various quality levels over the years too: advent- legacy & baby advents mirage monitor audio b&w- smaller models without tweeter on top, not impressed, sold in 2 weeks. polk infinity SM 15" woofer boston acoustics older sansui with 16" woofers cerwin vega MTX in my teenage years, that are cerwin vega killers! optimus pro with linaeum ribbon tweeters other lower end stuff i cant recall or not worth mentioning.
  7. check sold/selling items on ebay, or look at other online audio selling sites including here in the garage sale to get a realistic idea of what these sell for.
  8. dynakit st70 tube amp , a deal for anyone in st louis , needs trouble shooting , when fixed with up to date parts its exceptional , run get there first. GLWS to the seller.
  9. check all wiring at the receiver/amp/pre. then switch speaker wires to see if the sound moves to other side, if it does then its in the amp/pre or wires, if not its the speaker/tweeter. need to remove the tweeter or open up the speaker to get to the tweeter in order to test the ohm with it unhooked from the crossover. if they are under warranty still you should contact klipsch for how to have it fixed/repaired. shouldnt be too difficult to remove the tweeter if needed to replace it. final thing you can do its use a toilet paper roll placed on the tweeter & listen at lower volumes so as to not hurt your ear, or just cover the top woofer with your ear close to the tweeter, compare to the other speaker to verify if you can hear the problem.
  10. ok. was more curious what you thought about an electrolytic vs PE in the signal path of a chorus/2. but i get it.
  11. @Crankysoldermeister any ideas why an electrolytic was used here? whats the advantage to using a lytic when most other models use a film cap for the mid? its a smaller 7 or 6 for ch2, figured it would have used a "better" PE cap.
  12. id like to, but with the recent warnings of mentioning anything other than what klipsch approves, its probably best i dont. some of the answers are embedded in the detailed explanations on this thread or the other recent ones where they were discussed, unfortunately some got deleted before too many could read them...
  13. i cant say for sure on the chorus 1 but have read it was also an electrolytic, pics of chorus crossovers show 2 electrolytics so probably safe to say the 7mfd on chorus is.
  14. yes i agree that not all data is always accurate, too many variables, probably should have worded that better. for this topic let's say any data provided is as accurate as it can be. by definition a fact is a fact until proven untrue, & for audio capacitors or test results of audio components, those are not likely to change anytime soon. but i see your point.
  15. that may be true, but the facts & data are not biased... i usually prefer a more straightforward approach to looking at facts & data, for the most part i am capable of setting aside any personal bias when presented with facts. having an open mind allows one to learn new things.
  16. im late to the party, glanced over the thread at 3 or 4 pages long & saw some well written logical comments... apparently some have been deleted. some comments on this thread, a couple phone calls & the many PMs ive received have mostly answered the capacitor questions i was asking recently. the members here that take the time to reply to what some may consider stupid questions are very appreciated... we all were beginners at some point & relied on those that knew more than we do. this type of info is very constructive & helpful to me & other forum members that are just trying to learn more. there was never a issue with the service being provided for klipsch crossovers, most are just looking for some basic details on what this all means for what we will actually hear to make an educated decision. thanks again to those that take/took the time to help out with non biased data & explanations.
  17. @captainbeefheart thanks for the explanation, i can follow most of that & it does help. being im just a low level hobbyist like many on here & out there, my questions were more an attempt to get a dumbed down version or a voltage curve for dummies explanation of what we will actually hear using a common PP cap in place of the original PE caps. its been mentioned a few times that PP caps have been used for almost 20 years & most people really like the sound from what i've read, even if its different than original by some amount. room acoustics & speaker placement probably have a much bigger affect on the sound of a speaker than a simple cap swap. the transfer function of the complete network or how to measure it is way above my pay grade, but i appreciate you taking the time to explain it better. all i can say is that using PP caps in my klipsch & other brands of speakers didnt make them sound bad or take away much if anything from what i hear & enjoy about klipsch speakers. in the future i will consider trying jem or other mylar film caps, was just hoping for a little more info on all this. apologies to the OP for sidetracking the thread.
  18. hi, thanks for chiming in. of course im aware of current state of the economy, it affects all businesses small & large. i dont buy the caps i use from one of those large warehouse places, i buy from a relatively small company & am able to buy small quantities of most common values of PP or PE caps for a fraction of the cost. my question about the price was more related to details on the caps quality compared to other brands, not just inflation. most people want to know some details about a product to make a decision. i understand your caps are correct capacitors made to Klipsch specifications. These capacitors maintain the intended design of the original networks. i wasnt trying to make a fuss about the service you provide, nor do i not believe what roy has said, if you read my comments i was just asking for a little more of an explanation about what this change in voltage curve means for what is actually heard. i was trying to "get it"... but i got some insight today, i phoned a friend that knows some greek & now i have a better understanding of all this. plus i googled it.
  19. um, because jem wasnt available until just recently & everyone raved about crites prior to that, even mr randy has said crites are great caps/crossovers before jem came out, but those comments have probably been edited or lost in the 60k+ posts... being on a budget & for middle of the chain klipsch speakers i bought used, crites was too expensive then & especially now... a 3uf sonicap is like $60 direct from sonicraft! daytons, erse & others have pretty much stayed the same price, maybe a couple dollars more, crites also now offers daytons for budget minded people. & the "authorized" thing, some want an upgrade from the stock sound or to use an alternative thats priced better. one of my questions was comparing jem to other same type PE caps... why are jem so much more expensive (ive seen $40-60 for a pair of fortes that are just 4 film caps & 2 lytics), all other PE caps are less than $1ea & are likely the same quality, possibly better. ive asked for some basic details on that or comparison to other PE caps, but i understand klipsch probably isnt going to comment on that one.
  20. i have seen most of the back & forth comments... ive also seen your FB page comments about things like this & some on this forum which i agree 100% with... probably best i dont repeat them here. sounds like maybe you've changed your tune on some of that recently? i have tried googling some capacitor/crossover info, some is helpful but most is like ive said, its all greek to the average guy. just like trying to explain internal combustion engines or any type of mechanical aspects of cars, unless you dumb it down for people that dont have a clue its almost worthless.
  21. which is it?? never claimed i could easily hear cap differences, sorry if it came across like that. for the few new caps ive compared i didnt hear a major difference, the difference i heard was on 25+ year old stock caps vs budget PP caps. i mentioned i've had original chorus2 & forte/2 & others that sounded fine, didnt feel a need to replace them. but on a couple other klipsch ive had the caps were clearly "bad" because the speakers sounded like crap, dull muffled mid/tweets, i asked for others to confirm tweet/mid ohm readings to know the drivers werent bad before i replaced the caps. changed to budget PP caps that instantly fixed the problem & to me they sounded slightly better than original chorus 2 i had at the time on brief comparisons. placebo? maybe. but same room same system switched on A/B channels. were the caps in the originals that sounded ok on their way out of spec? i will never know that, but i liked what i heard on the recapped ones & didnt notice any overly brightness then or today 5 years later. wasnt comparing wire types to capacitors, it was a hypothetical question. most people including PWK say wire is wire & lamp cord is all thats needed, ive had all kinds of mid range wires over the years, 16awg RCA walmart type, monster cable 12awg (for longer runs) some other brands of 10awg for car audio high power subs i had & many other average brands that i have used over the years on different systems, never heard any noticeable differences. the hypothetical questions was if you cant hear the slight difference of voltage curve from a PP cap to a PE cap, which the average person probably cant or at least not reliably, then is this voltage curve really that big of a deal to the average person with some fortes & a mid-fi receiver/integrated? im not talking crazy expensive networks or K-horns with upgraded mids & tweets etc. just saying "it will change the voltage curve" without any further explanation or details of what that means for what we will hear is kind of ambiguous, so is, "some people just dont get it?" you said yourself you need a decoder ring to understand those comments. is it really too much to ask for an explanation on what that means? apparently so.
  22. agreed. i havent changed as many things as you mentioned, mainly because using average cables, wires & even just good ol mid-fi solid state gear has always sounded very good to me at my budget. i could buy expensive things or tube amps etc, but for mostly rock & roll or modern alt rock & listening louder than the average guy with good strong bass, from what ive heard the average tube amp isnt the best for that, or at least not a budget friendly one, & i cant talk myself into buying a tube amp that costs thousands of dollars then pay hundreds of dollars for speaker wire or RCA cables etc that i probably cant pick out on a blind A-B test. ive heard many high dollar systems using fancy wires at friends or audio stores that didnt sound any better than what i have here, some were noticeably worse. for the power cords or power line conditioning etc, im sure theres some improvement to be had with a conditioner, but paying hundreds of dollars for a power cord when the house has standard 12-14awg romax wire doesnt make much sense... & again, what little improvement in sound, or not, is just not worth the price to me. same for caps so far, i dont see (or hear) any benefit to paying $60 for a 3uf sonicap vs a dayton or erse etc for a few bucks a piece, im guessing that applies to jem PE caps too that are like $10ea vs another brand PE cap that costs .25-.50 & could possibly be of better quality. mileage does vary with these things, but i try to keep things in perspective & always question the overpriced hype that can happen in the audio world.
  23. to most people, brighter & more so clearer is an improvement. but too bright is not good. ive said it before & will say it again, i have no dog in this fight, im open to learning new things & would love to have these cap questions answered in terms that the average hobbyist can understand. i post these comments/questions on threads that have usually ran their course but the subject comes up, might be best to start a new thread so anyone willing or capable can address them? i would also be curious to hear jem caps compared to PP caps, i guess the only option thus far is to buy jem (or another PE cap) & compare them for myself...
  24. its not a satisfaction issue, i haven't seen any answers to the questions. you said they were answered on one of those past threads too & i asked for a link to the answers or where these questions have been addressed, didnt get any reply. also asked chief when he quoted me on one of those threads & said he'd try to answer... i said thank you & posted a shortened version of the questions, didnt get any reply & have only seen the ambiguous "it will change the voltage curve" on older threads. the silence was pretty clear so i gave up. the positive crites reviews & comments ive read are mostly for the extended heritage models or KGs, KLFs etc, but many heritage models also got crites/sonicap caps, from what ive read over the years on here or other forums or FB groups was mostly positive or they didnt hear any change at all. i understand knocking the mid back ~3db offsets changes in ESR, but the comments i see are not doing that, vast majority of people are very happy with crites provided caps regardless of models. some members here or people out there even use basic dayton PP caps & are very happy with the results/sound on all kinds of models even the pro KP's. ive never tried sonicaps but have heard a set of fortes with them, not being able to compare to anything, i thought they sounded great, & i owned stock fortes at the time that also sounded good. the majority of others arent hearing this difference in sound using PP caps. i agree most people cant afford nor have a desire to try different networks or caps, also agree that most people aren't as critical as someone like yourself that has been building crossovers for decades.. or an engineer that might see a miniscule difference with super sensitive test equipment. its kinda like speaker wire or power cords, most people will never be able to tell the difference, so if you cant hear it, is it really that big of a deal?
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