Porn_Star

duplicate post.

as far as installation goes, its pretty much the same as removal. make sure your holes line up on the gasket. ill show you on the next picture why. then go ahead and stick all 8 t20 screws back in and tighten up. if you look closely, you will see the little prong does not line up with the hole. the top and bottom are offset so it only fits back together one way. as you see here, this direction they line back up perfectly. after you stick the trim back on, you are done!

tweeter from cone removal. there are only 3 8mm bolts holding the tweeter to the inner cone. one of which is kinda a pain to get to. 2 of the 3 look like this. they are easy to get to and should be removed first. you can totally remove the nut and the lockwashers. the last one is inside an indentation. as you can see, if you tried to remove this one first, you can only get it so far off, then you will have to go to the other screws to loosen up the whole cone before you can get the nut to come off due to the tight fit. this is the tweeter side of the horn. ill grab a picture of the tweeter when i get back home, i dont seem to have a picture on my phone right now.

i have seen all kinds of crazy ideas on how to remove the tweeters on these front speakers. i recently did and and will show you how to do it properly. here is a photo without the grill. you will need some pretty strong fingernails to pop off the first part of the cone. dig in with your fingernails and try to pry it away from the cabinet. there is some pretty strong double sided tape holding it together. if you cant get it, you might try a plastic takeout knife, or better yet, a plastic spoon. but you get the idea. it starts to get much easier as you work your way around. there she is! all naked and what not. there are 8 t20 screws holding the cone in place. i have them all backed out, as they arent very apparent under the double sided tape. i did not remove the tape at all, as i did not have any to replace it with. and out it comes. green is positive, and black is negative of course.

too bad i already ordered some! they came in yesterday, i havent put them in yet. gonna wait till i decide which crossover i will go with.

ahh, yes. extreamly cheap extra large mouse pad! hehe. all aside, i do own 3 glocks gen 3 30, gen 3 rtf2 22, and a gen 3 rtf2 17. along with a multitude of other guns.

Spam! Dang.

i cant really tell. some of those speakers look very similar to me. i emailed the fellow. we will see what comes of it.

Hahahaha... thats the greatest line I've heard all year!!! funny thing is, thats a ruger in the picture...

http://nashville.craigslist.org/ele/4658919525.html dont know who it is, but copper for 150. not bad at all!

cool beans. they are a lot thiner than the la scalas and will give me more actual room from the screen. i think i like this idea. let me know Steve. i am quite interested.

Wow! You all are tempting me big time! Is this OK with you plissken99?

wanna meet half way??

I'll leave the filter network suggestions to Dean, but as far as "looks" are concerned, they really don't mean anything where the integrity of the electronics are concerned. I'd bet my left nut that any negative sound issues you are experiencing at the moment have more to do with the combination of that iNuke amp, lack of any EQ, a gain staging issue, and using MP3 or AAC encoded source material. IME, a properly maintained and fucntioning AL-3 La Scala, driven with the right gear, has no "edge" to speak of. The eq setting have been left alone, I had it like this on my rf7ii's and loved it. I was listening to lossless, along with bluerays. I understand the whole "crap in-crap out" concept. I would say most of my problem lies in the piezo tweeter, blown sub, and old caps. All of which I am trying to sort though at once. I will most likely box up my xo's and let him sort through their functionality as I don't know anything compared to his experience.

I kinda figured that, but as I was searching for this info I couldn't find much about it. I figured I would try and make some of the differences, along with his opinion of a xo that looks like this, a little more public.

How much will that run? Do you suggest replacing the al-3 because they look like crap? Shoot me a price!

I have already ordered 2 k77m tweeters.

What about the al-3s? They look really rough!

Then what do you recommend? Replace/rebuild/what's better than a k77?

While a different approach, both the AL and AL-3 have tweeter protection. AL AL-3 Oh sweet! I did not know this. Then why the recommendation to use mainly with 80-90 db of playback?

1. Very loud. To give you an example, I have rf7ii's on a nu4-6000 that I listen to just before clipping. And that still isn't loud enough! After reading for hours, I tthink I want to change the al to an al-3 for the tweeter protection. 2. Yes. I can solder and all that good stuff. But I do not know much about crossovers. I understand the function, but placement and all I would get wrong without being told where to put what. These are going to be used on a home theater setup. I will power them with an inuke nu4-6000. I know it's overkill, but I want as loud as possible. As far as price wise. Like most folks I want the best for cheap. I was looking around and was considering spending upwards of 500 on all 3. To include a new one to replace the al. I really would like tweeter protection as mentioned earlier.

i have 2 matching la scalas, and 1 center that doesnt match. they matching ones are 1992 and the crossovers look like a mess. the matching one has a bad woofer, and 2 peizo tweets that i will bring replace with klipsch k77m tweets, the subs are k33, and i will try my best to replace or recone with the same sub. the squakers are k55, they are not the ones that look shielded, but rather with the raw magnet showing. the crossover are al-3 i do not know the exact year of the black la scala but the crossover is an al. what do you recomend? i wil be using these as a center, left and right. of course the center will be the black one with the al xo. i will use these for music as well, but not as much as i will also have my bedroom setup. this is part of a new theater build. as most folks, i am trying to be as economical as possible to save money for the rest of the build. i am considering waiting till i am done with the build, so i wont be so anxious to buy more parts and may be willing to spend more money on getting a better xo build. but i seriously do not want to put any of my drivers at risk because of xo failure if you think these need to be changed asap. also, do you recomend getting a al-3 for the black scala? that way they will all be matching? i know that the al xo looks decent on the outside compared to the al-3, but i am sure those caps have had some mileage on them! thanks for the info. i can solder and whatnot, so if you recomend just refreshing the caps, i can definitely change them with your kits you offer.

still got the k77s?

well, those piezo tweeters that were in there sucked! i dont think i will ever try them again. they felt the same weight as a quarter!

yeah, these crossovers are expensive once you start multiplying everything by 3! i think i will just rock them as is, after putting new k77 tweeters in them. ill gauge how they sound off of the black one, i know they have whole different crossovers, but i will see if they sound about the same. if they do, ill freshen up the caps a little later, if there is obvious differences then i will have to find new crossovers, or rebuild the ones i have.