BananaMoonpie
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Posts posted by BananaMoonpie
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2 hours ago, Panelhead said:
I would order another set and install once in. May be the gaskets are very old. Your gaskets seem to fail rapidly once installed. I thought they were good for 10 - 20 years.
I don't think is the gasket. Though it did seem to fix it, both drivers are using the same gaskets, the faulty driver distorts in both speakers. The second driver is clean in both speakers.
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14 hours ago, Marvel said:
I am going to guess the connections on the drivers get some tarnish and need some deoxit.
Have you pulled the connex off the drivers and put them back on?
I haven't done so yet, I did took apart the driver and found a lot of residue in the magnet gap where the coil of the diaphragm sits. The gasket broke in half when I separated it. seems to be made of very thin cardboard, I'll have to make a new one.
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1 hour ago, wuzzzer said:
The only advice I can give is it's swap and swapped, not swamp and swamped. 😆
Thanks, If I get to fix my speaker and improve my English all the better. 🤣
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On 11/21/2018 at 8:01 AM, mopardave said:
Had a distorted K55M in my Super Heresy. Dropped the tap on autoformer from 3 to 2. Clean as a Bell now.
Unfortunately I don' really have the technical skills to do that.
Is there a different mid range driver that I could swap for the K52-H without having to mess with the Type E2 crossover?
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It does not have the same back plate as the K55M.
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34 minutes ago, Schu said:
Degraded crossover capacitor can definetely do this, though I am not saying for sure that is your issue.
As I mentioned above I replaced the crossovers for new ones I purchased from Crites speakers and experienced it with both.
13 minutes ago, PrestonTom said:From the symptoms, it is not a capacitor. Bad gasket or a problem with the diaphragm.
Gaskets where also purchased from Crites speakers, both horns are using the same gaskets and seem to fit good. It was my first time replacing a diaphragm so it's possible I did something wrong though the issue also occurred with old and new. Also remember reusing the gasket inside the driver itself . I could give it a look and see if I can source gasket material of similar thickness to make a new one.
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On 11/20/2018 at 8:23 PM, Panelhead said:
That is not what I would expect from bad gaskets. Plus they should go a decade.
Check your wiring for a bad connection. It made be when you swap gaskets you are getting a clean connection.
My first guess would be degraded capacitor in crossover. But changing the gasket should not fix the problem.
The wires where replaced when I swapped the diaphragms and the crossovers where replaced with new ones. I remember swapping the driver to the other speaker the first time and the same thing happened on the second speaker though I don't remember if I swapped the horn.
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Just looking for advice and to see if anyone ever experienced an issue like this. a few years back I had this issue with a Heresy I K52H driver where it wold distort the sound on certain high notes, most noticeable with anything with pianos or wind instruments. With some of the community members advice I managed to fix it with just a gasket replacement and also went ahead and swapped the diaphragms on the drivers. About a few months later the distortion returned. Again I replaced the gasket and everything was back to normal. I thought I had over tighten the driver to the horn and damaged the gasket and moved on but every few months to a year depending of use it happens again. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks.
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Today I got in the process of removing the drivers from a pair of KG 3.2 speakers and after removing them I noticed a white residue on the back of the woofer, tweeter and the passive radiator. I have only done some work on a pair of heresys and other non Klipsch speaker and never noticed anything like this. Is that corrosion like in galvanized steel pipes?.
Thanks.
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If you want vintage my first amp for Hesersys was a Marantz 2240. I then went to Dared VP20s which are budget mono block tube amps. Both worked awesome for me. You have many many options and undoubtably will be happy with whichever one you choose to go with.
I wish I could go vintage but the reason I can't get the HK 300c fixed is that the only local Tech I knew of is long gone.
The PM5005 seems pretty similar to the PM6005 apart from the Coax and Optical inputs, since I already have a DAC I think I'll probably go with the PM5005. Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it.
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Amplifier, integrated amplifier, or receiver?
Integrated Amp or Amplifier both work for me.
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Hello, I'm looking to get a new amp to drive my Heresys, My current amp a Harman Kardon 300c has started to pop and buzz today and I won't be getting it fixed any time soon so I'm looking for some suggestion on a replacement. Budget is a bit small $300 to $500.
Thanks.
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This is what I did.
I like that look. Has the sound improved/worsened at all since adding the new binding posts?
For now I tightened the inside rear screws and it did the trick but I still want to chenge them out.
Don't know if you're still looking to replace the binding posts but here is an image of my Heresys. I used the ones you mentioned at the beginning.
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Bad news, I carefully removed the old diaphragms from the driver and the gasket that seems to be made of cork has crumbled in to several pieces. I then removed the second one just to find one made of paper. Any suggestions?
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I used this link when I did my Cornwall resto. LOTS of good info found in this thread.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/98877-how-to-new-grills-grill-cloth-etc/
I also posted my own progress. See some of my before pics and you can see some similarities between your Heresies and mine - birch grain through the stain.
Thank you, this will definitely help me a lot.
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Merry Christmas and best wishes for everyone!
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Thin paper backed veneers are not very difficult to use a bit stiffer than mactack. The trick is to do all the real work first. Your prep time is where you make the veneer work look easy as you want the surface to be veneered to be perfectly smooth so defects do not telegraph through the veneer. You could start by doing a veneer job on the risers and build confidence. Take a look at one of Greg's pages to see what lovely veneers can do for a simple old box. Best regards Moray James.
Really like those restorations, I think I will start with the risers as suggested. I also have a small stand I made for my amplifier that needs some work.
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love the black grill cloth looking stuff on the motorboard
That is actually the grill without the fabric I kind of liked how it looked so I have not replaced the fabric yet. The small square near the woofer is a poor gluing job.
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You might consider a total wrap of fresh veneer.
I would love to but I probably make a mess of it with my limited experience.
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I'm in need of help identifying the finish of my Heresys. I got them from a local seller but the stickers on the back are too damaged. I do like them as they are but some areas specially the top look a bit faded. Also I wold like to match the raisers as they are not finished.
Thanks.
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Good news, I have replaced the gaskets and the problem seems to be solved.
Bob C. sells the diaphragms for those in pairs. I would replace them both and keep the good one as a spare.I did bought a pair of new diaphragms from him but if the old ones are working ok with the new gaskets is there any reason to replace them? if not I'll just keep them as spare.
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H1's back comes off and the speaker wire terminals are 2 screws at the top of the back, drivers come out from the rear.
Yes, this is the one I have.
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Pretty sure its a Heresy I, and on mine the driver has a threaded end. I can twist it until it detaches from the horn, no screws appart from the ones holding the driver together. Anyway I have decided to replace both diaphragm and gasket. Thanks for all the help guys.
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I have swamped it and its still there so Im positive its the mid range. Is replacing the diaphragm an option? I have seen a guide on how to do it at Bob Crites site and it's simple enough for me to do it, or should I replace the whole driver?
Heresy Mid-Range distortion
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
No screen on the driver. I only used solder on the tweeter, the woofer and mid range have crimp connectors. I have replaced those too but no luck.