MercedesBerater
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Posts posted by MercedesBerater
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I think I would prefer, if atmos is to be used, to do in ceiling.
You guys are right, it's a negligible amount to add a few wires for ceiling speaks now- and if I never use them- oh well.
Ordering the A/V rack in the next day or two... Waiting on a call back from the electrician for an estimate for sub panel and hooking up all my wires. (I'll run wire- but won't hook up to the giant death panel.)
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Came up with this 3.33/20 (units) = 1.5 and he's taking 4 units of the smaller (*1.6667) which would be 6.6667 units
I did ask my vet.... I don't think he wanted to do the math. He said "Well....it's a different scale" (well yeah...?)
Uhhhh.... Time to get a new vet if that's the answer they're giving you.
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As for making the stage/riser a bass trap, I think it's a poor idea. From what I can find the stage would have to be built after the room is 100% finished to calculate exactly the size and spacing of ports to allow pressure to be affected by the "trap".
The better idea would be to just fill the stage with sand for resonance. And fill the riser with fluff in the front and sand in the rear.
And HOPE it's a broadband absorber....
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Ok... More important- Are they really worth it?
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Pite- what are your room dimensions?
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Mine are crossed at 80hz and when I get material that's bass heavy- the 10"s are still doing work!
It's a better blend crossed at 80 compared to higher or lower - at least in my current set up with very low power receiver.
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Here's another topic for discussion.
Front stage will be filled with sand to damp any resonance from speakers being on the stage.
COULD I do sand in back half of rear seating riser to damp the towers and subs back there.... And do insulation in the front half and somehow make the rear riser a gigantic bass trap? Would I just need some vents in the front and rear for pressure flow? Or would it need much more than a few furnace return style vents ?
Just thinking maybe that's a great free bass trap spot that won't be noticeable..
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Ok. Good to know! I am working on wrapping all a/c sheet metal with an off brand "dynamat" type product to reduce ringing. I didn't know if the flex duct was worth it or a gimmick.
Guess I'll be closing off the main feed to the room and add one run of flex-ducting.
For the $40 I'll probably spend doing it, can't hurt I suppose.
Thanks for the input.
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That is a victory if you ask me!
How effective do you think the flexible a/c-heat ducting is for sound attenuation?
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I did the same with 5 pre-wired sub locations and I'm not using any of them, go figure.I put in wall plates for subwoofers in two locations, but ended up using speaker wire to drive my latest subwoofer in yet a third location, so sometimes you can't plan for everything!
MB, for atmos, that looks like a 8 ft ceiling height? I would recommend that you pre-wire it for atmos now before sheetrock is done. It wouldn't take long at all and very inexpensive. You never know, you might want to add overhead later and then all you have to do is cut the speaker hole, attach speaker wire and mount. I did notice a water pipe in the picture that is under the ceiling joists, are you going to move it up out of the way?
Would you have atmos speakers directly above seat position? Or two slightly in front, two slightly behind?
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That's true. I just don't have any small speakers to lug around
And I'm hoping my very careful wiring saves me. I ran all wires with ZERO twists in the wire, heck, I even measured my screw holes on the drywall so everything is mapped out- that way if I need to screw something later- I don't ain right at an existing screw!
I think I'm way overthinking this project... But that's half the fun for me.
My father-in-law has some chorus2's I could move easier to test wires.
Don't want to use a cheap speaker from a HtIB because they may not show the true signal coming through- crap speakers will sound like crap either way. If I use something nice I'll hear if there's static, or anything bizarre.
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I really want to test the room as I go... But don't have power to the room yet. Hopefully get an electrician to put a sub panel in soon and get some power to my outlets.
I'm only doing the bottom half of walls right now so I can still have some light trickle through.
Pretty soon I'm going to be at a standstill until I get the electrican here.
I suppose I could run some cable to atmos :/
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Agile- I read about using some rg6 for sub. But I didn't want to take the risk so I got two 50' cables for front wall, and just ordered a 15' and 25' for the back wall.
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The water pipe will be attached to joists and the furring strips will give passage for the water pipe and conduit that runs perpindicular to the joists.
I've considered atmos pre-wire. I just don't know if at 7.75' if there's enough height to really get good speaker dispersion or if they'll be right on top of you and overpowering.
I have the 4 sub locations, I will have to deal with those options regardless. I do not want subs on side wall too close to walk area - regardless if it's the perfect location.
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My one trick up my sleeve is I'm leaving the exterior wall unfinished for a while. I'll move into the room and listen and enjoy for a while. If things need to move or be added I can access the side and rear walls very easily to run new wire. Once I'm 100% happy with everything then I'll close up the walls.
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Oh, Amazon it is! Nothing on mono price. Surprising.
Amazon has a few options.
As far as running possible side wall subwoofers, I Could do that, but that would really cramp the side walk areas.
I would assume running 4 x 15" subs - each near or in each corner should be plenty of options. I could do tucked right in corner, or I could do multiple feet away from corner and 1-2 feet away from back wall if required.
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I have four locations for subwoofers. Two sub outlets at front wall, two at rear wall.
I am against Dolby atmos in THIS room, the ceiling is not tall enough for the proper effects it could add.
Right now I'm trying to find nice speaker wall plates & subwoofer wall plates.
Tons of banana plug outlets for speakers, can't find a single RCA plate for subwoofer. All of them are composite set up.
Any ideas on where to get a wall plate with ONE rca jack for sub?
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Front wall drywall...
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Front wall insulation.... I decided on r-13 JM because the front wall is concrete.. I thought the Roxul might be a bit overkill there.
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Drywall on back wall started.
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So bizarre- I was just telling my wife this morning I couldn't wait until I had the room sealed of and power outlets complete so I could check bass response etc.
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Six more sheets of drywall going up today.
Pictures coming soon...
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If doing soffit style traps do they HAVE to be fabric covered or just a thin layer of drywall or wood veneer?
If wood veneer would work I could do false columns and just wrap with nice 1/8" veneer and have decorative traps.
If it must be fabric covered- then I'll be forced to do the ceiling style
If drywall doesn't hamper the trapping then shouldn't the whole room be a bass trap since everything will have Roxul?
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Also considered doing false column bass traps
Or attempting a flared wall for trapping as well.
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RF-7II Owners Thread
in Home Theater
Posted
Wouldn't it be equal as long as ports are equal? Or is there some sort of loading of pressure for rear port having wall boundary reinforcement? If so, wouldn't the distance of speaker to wall mitigate some of the "loading"
I'm totally talking out of my a$$ but that's what I would hypothesize could be the only issue?