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MercedesBerater

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Everything posted by MercedesBerater

  1. room treatments - maximize what you have, and then think about upgrading equipment. (with the added bonus that the room treatments will help the new gear too!)
  2. @CECAA850 During testing and setting up the curve.... I later went back upstairs and my wife said the birds outside were flying frantically and they would land on a tree branch and looked like they were distressed. — mission accomplished? Lol
  3. I was aligning and doing all that work with the wrong microphone selected. d’oh switched & deleted all PEQ and EQ and such..... ended with this.
  4. @CECAA850 i also had a thought.... i have the Umic-1 set up, but i have this weird feeling that my output / input in 'preferences' was being weird. i had to keep going into correct it - a few times during my sweeps it would boot the AVR off as the output field and it would do frequency sweeps from the laptop computers 🤣. talk about underwhelming. 🤣 and a few times it kept saying the 'input' field was something called a 'realtek'. I still was getting my REW chartings.... is it possible this thing is using a different microphone and just flat out cant 'see' below 35hz ? maybe it's overriding my Umic selection and using the laptop microphone?? --- but, if that's true, why does the <35hz not feel as powerful as >35hz. the graph i see does seem to line up with what i feel & hear. i'm going to re-check this tonight since it kind of makes sense.
  5. sp1-4000 -- i left every knob alone from factory except the gain, i turned it to ZERO and then slowly turned it up. ON-AUTO-12V = Auto GAIN --- 3RD White dot LF ADJUST -- Fully to the right (CUT-BOOST) CROSSOVER -- Fully to the right (60-120-OUT) DELAY -- Fully to the right (0-20MS) SUBWOOFER RCA - LFE INPUT i don't have any filters engaged that i'm aware of. this plate amp from speakerpower doesn't have any places to toggle any sort of DSP (that i know of, just knobs) only filters are in the MiniDSP that i created. i checked low-pass and high-pass filtes. checked PEQ that i created to flatten the HUGE output compared to the <35hz region.
  6. Got the amplifier properly installed last night and subwoofers all into position. Set up Umik-1 and MiniDSP and started tinkering. Worked on getting time-alignment between the new dual 18' ported subwoofer and the two baby R-115SW's. SUB SETTINGS R-115SW's GAIN knobs at ~1/2 (12:00 position on the knob) Dual 18 Ported GAIN Knob at 3rd click (on a clock it would be starting 0 gain at 7 o'clock, i'm at like 8:30) AVR SETTINGS master volume was set at 46 (which depending on the movie is a little less than i normally listen..i'm usually 46-48 maybe 50/52 if i'm feeling frisky) Ran dozens of test sweeps setting ms delay between the 3 subs and inverted the one in the rear -- achieving slight improvements each step. ABOVE 35hz i could probably induce gastrointestinal distress and cause an involuntary bowel movement. BELOW 35hz the whole system falls off a cliff. I'm 20+db down -- it's like there's a high-pass filter on....but there is not. (i checked and checked.... and checked again) above 35hz i was averaging 70dB with some peaks around 76dB. ---but it felt like i could tear walls down. below 35hz i was around 15dB down at 30hz, 20dB down at 25hz, and 30 down at 20hz, and so forth. I tried doing an EQ and loaded that into MiniDSP in the PEQ advanced tab. and re-ran the sweep - i was able to smooth the response (basically had to cut everything above 35hz to match the weak <35hz region), and the graph in REW proved it was working. I now have a nice(r) graph....but now everything matches that weak <35hz region. I still have the AVR set to 46 volume and the subs are now EQ'd and outputting 60dB pretty flat 20hz-120hz. Should i bump the volume on AVR and redo it all? Should i bump the GAIN on the big 18's and redo it all? When i watch videos on YouTube people are clearing 100dB with much smaller subs, why am i only getting 60dB with dual 18's ported and 4,000Watts which is supplemented with a pair of 15' ported. I know this much be user error, but i don't know what i don't know -- help!
  7. @CECAA850 yes, this was partly the reason i wanted to build so overkill - was if i can have a bunch of peaks, i can trim them all down and have a house curve which will hopefully help with the boomy bass + the acoustic treatments. one step closer to audio nirvana! MiniDsp arrives tomorrow -- just enough time for me to tinker and tweak and get the amplifier fit inside the cabinet.
  8. the SpeakerPower SP1-4000 arrived yesterday. shipped by UPS -- only one small dent in the metal protective/vented back cover. no damage to anything important. installed -- need to shave a little to get a clean fit, but it was in enough to test it out. ~kindof~ it was 10pm, and kids were asleep so i kept it quite low volume. normally my receiver set at 48-52 volume (of 100) when watching movies. So i turned it to 20 of 100. very quiet. and i wasn't sure where to start with the gain knob on the amp. so i turned it to 0, and then up 1 click. put on a few sine waves just to see what it would do. EVEN at 20 of 100 volume and only the first click up on the gain knob - these things have some serious power. I could hear air chuffing out of the loosely installed amplifier - but wow. I may have went a bit overboard with everything. woofer size, box size, amp size, etc....... and i love it!! 🤣 now -- question time. How do i test the actual tuning the box turned out to be? I designed it to 17hz...can i use REW to run a sweep and just compare the graph and the lowest peak is the tune? Obviously modeling software could not factor 'room gain' in - not that it really matters, this thing has so much overhead i'll be able to cut away any peaks with MiniDsp and get a nice house curve i'm sure.
  9. @Marvel Exactly. and the whole room is DIY... none of it is 'perfect' but it's 99% for my tastes. I see the flaws, and to me they are glaringly obvious. but in the grand scheme of things, they're minor. like on the sub - my 45* corners the router had a little wobble in a few places causing some chatter and it's not perfectly smooth.... oh well. looks good enough for me - and when the lights are dimmed, it's all gone. plus the lights in the photo are MAX brightness, so that helps hide everything too. ugh, now i have to get through 2 more days of work and hope everything shows up for a test drive this weekend!!
  10. Test fitting in theater.... put one woofer in with just two bolts to get a feel for it. SpeakerPower amp ships tomorrow. second woofer arrives Saturday (hopefully) hmm... what to do with a pair of 15’s.... maybe center of rear wall to maybe smooth out some room modes/nodes
  11. @babadono HA! wouldn't surprise me.
  12. i use turbotax on Mac. works fine. a year or two ago i had a CPA do my taxes and i also did them on turbotax (just didn't click submit) to see if they came out exactly the same.... guess what - they did. back to sticking with turbotax instead of the $750 CPA.
  13. @CECAA850 yes, very happy with how it came out. a little wet sanding and buff/polish this coming weekend should really help too. anyone else reading or following along --- the USC 2K high gloss clear. = incredible. now if only Marantz could get their supply chain sorted out so the backordered pre/pro and amps i have on order would come in so i can get the whole room working. covid has forced me to practice patience.... that's for sure.
  14. speakerpower SP1-4000 --- ordered, probably a few days for shipping. also ordered the pins and 6-plug connector you have to get to connect it to regular 14-16AWG braided wire.
  15. @Iteachstem It’s weird, all the photos are normal orientation in my phone & when I send them via text or any other program like say, Facebook messenger. once I load them into this forum... they’re normal when I click re-size... and then poof! Once it’s posts it rotates my photos all the same direction 90* what the heck.
  16. Decided to paint myself.... came out good. used 1) high build primer. 2) sanded with 320grit 3) 6 spray cans of duplicolor flat black base 4) tack cloth 5) 4 cans of USC 2K clear coat next— let cure a week+ and then wet sand and buff/polish the orange peel....get that mirror finish. — wish I could figure out how to rotate images.
  17. @CECAA850 yes, front has a 45* around perimeter to mimic the 45* around the baffle woofer relief. the rest of box will get a roundover. before i send to bodyshop, i'm going to give it ONE MORE attempt. i really want to make this entire thing DIY.... so far i've only hired someone to lay the carpet. stubborn, but i want to get it figured out. but, if it comes down to it - $500 isn't too bad for a good paint job.
  18. $500 +/- a little wiggle room. not bad for a body shop paint job. and yes, i have dozens of moving blankets - i'll load into the back of the truck and then drive behind house and unload directly into the basement, and carry into theater. shouldn't need any straps, loading dollies, or anything other than two fella's and a pick'up. (i hope)
  19. @CECAA850 yes, i already have a few quotes. i'd rather spend the money and have it look the way i want, versus learning on the job and trying to paint it myself. well, i did try it myself - and that sealed the deal to send it to a body shop. i figure, i did everything else in the theater exactly the way i wanted - no sense in half-a$$ing this step. 🤣 plus -- i sold my Denali pickup and my 30 foot Monterey boat this year-- so i have more cushion before the wife gives me the side-eye.
  20. @CECAA850 duratex looks like truck bed liner from the photos i've seen. too rough and abrasive looking for my tastes. i'm looking for a glossy piano lacquer type finish. (similar to what's on the SVS PB-16Ultra)
  21. WELP,.... i attempted to paint the box myself. looked pretty good, until it dried. then i saw little pimples start showing up in the paint. I'm thinking it's dust maybe. tried to wet-sand it, and the paint is so thin it's back to primer in a few swipes even with 1,000 grit. so.... off to the body shop for a quality finish. updates in a few weeks. (hopefully)
  22. They have specs, it’s just under the “technical tab” not listed in each amp page. They have a chart. they’re the same Amps used in the SeatonSound stuff
  23. I’m looking at either the SpeakerPower SP1-4000 (4000 watt at 2ohm, 2000 at 4, etc) SP1-2400 (2400 watt at 4ohm, 1200 at 8 ) I figured the bigger amp with almost double the watts & stable to 2 ohm was the better choice. But if I wire them as 8 ohm, that becomes totally unnecessary, right? Or should I just get the bigger Amp and wire them 2ohm?
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