Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

Peter P.

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

234 Excellent

About Peter P.

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Meriden CT
  • Interests
    Cycling, music.
  • My System
    Klipsch Heresy II's, kg sw Subwoofer, Quartets, kg 2.2's, kg 4.2's.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. MacLaim- If it were the circuit, other outlets in the circuit would suffer the same problem. Pull the outlet and make sure the connections are tight. (Switch off the circuit breaker first!) Otherwise, just replace the outlet; they're cheap enough. However, since you switched the sub to the "On" position and it works, you could have a problem with the "Auto" function of the switch or the auto sensing function of the amp. Switch the amp to the "Auto" position and see if you still have the problem. The amp automatically turns on when a minimum input signal is detected. If no signal is detected after a period of time, the amp goes into a low powered "Standby" mode.
  2. I'd troubleshoot them individually. Does either the soundbar or the subwoofer have LEDs indicating power to them? And you're saying neither item powers up? Have you checked the power strip? Some provide surge protection and may have an indicator showing it is tripped. Or it has a power switch and it's accidentally turned off. I'd also plug each item into another, known working outlet to prove they're dead. Report back with the results.
  3. I agree with crunchman. Either buy used Forte's, or used Heresy II's or I's. You'll still be blown away. The difference is, while Heresy's will make you wet your pants, Forte's will make you soil your pants. I'm running second-hand Heresy II's with a sub and I approve this message.
  4. Definitely suspend them from the ceiling, tilted down at an angle. If you really want bass in an arrangement such as yours, you're going to need a subwoofer. While I didn't do this with Heresy's, I did suspend a pair of bookshelf speakers in mid-air, tilted down, in a large stockroom. Even if I was only playing FM, the sound was airy and spacious, with no echo.
  5. Minwax makes a wood filler in a tube with a nozzle tip. The nozzle tip makes it easy to fill the holes. Then re-drill the holes.
  6. I too, am running Heresy's in a 2.1 configuration. I bought an SVS SB-1000 because I wanted to match the tight response of the sealed box Heresy. SVS recommends a sealed subwoofer for music-primary listeners. I am very satisfied with the pairing. My listening room is 15x24ft. SVS customer service was excellent in responding to e-mail questions. I wish the spiked feet supplied with the unit were taller, to contact the floor through medium pile carpeting. That's my only gripe.
  7. From an unscientific look at those "ports", I'd say they're too small to improve the low end response. At least that's my opinion after seeing other ported speakers with 12" woofers.
  8. I recently noticed the side panel of one of my walnut Heresy II's was separating from the end panel. This had happened once before about 18 months ago and I thought I fixed it by removing the woofer and flowing wood glue into the panel junction. Now that it was occurring again, I decided glue wasn't going to cut it and I was going to have to effect more permanent repairs. I don't know how the cabinets are constructed, but I think they're merely glued together, then the veneer is added on top. I wanted to reattach the panels with finishing nails, but I sure wasn't going to remove the veneer to do so only to have to re-veneer the cabinet. Not this home boy. I bought the smallest finishing nails available that were double the cabinet thickness in length. I measured everything 3 times to ensure my nails would strike wood. I then drilled undersized pilot holes through the veneer and outside panel to prevent any splitting that might occur. Here, you can see the gap at the junction of the side panels. The line drawn on the painter's tape tells me if I drill on the line, I should hit the adjacent panel at mid-thickness. I used a band clamp to force the cabinet to close the gap and hold the panels in the proper orientation during drilling. Here's the ugly part: I used a nail set to countersink the finishing nails. Well, these nails weren't dimpled to hold the nail set in place so I had a couple "oopsies". Turn away if you're getting squeamish! I used a colored wax wood pencil I had to fill the errant dimples and the nail heads. Besides the two vertical spots I nailed, I put one in the top edge of the panel. The pencil blended so well (it was unplanned; I merely used something I had on hand which I thought was close enough) you can barely see it. Here's the finished product.
  9. Why not think outside the box? Have a cabinet maker modify the shelves to accommodate the Heresy's in the upright position.
  10. I hope you're joking-that thing is cheaper than a $5 haircut. And as Edgar pointed out, it's not for broadcast FM; the lengths of the elements are much too short. I contacted Channel Master and learned their Advantage and Masterpiece series antennas are suitable for FM even though they don't mention it on their web site. Channel Master also sells all the accessories needed to complete an installation.
  11. I'm repainting my bedroom. On Friday, while I was upstairs replacing the outlets in the room and listening to the radio downstairs, all of a sudden the music was overrun with this wicked hum. I listen to a non-commercial station which frequently has a problem with their CD players skipping so I thought they must be having a problem. I ignored the noise for about 30 seconds then couldn't stand it any more. I went downstairs to change the station and lo and behold, the other station had the same problem. Don't tell me my tuner crapped out! Then I switched my amp to another source and the hum was still there-don't tell me my amp crapped out! While checking things out, I noticed the case on my equalizer was REALLY hot. What's going on here?! So I shut the equalizer off and the hum reduced by over half. Then I got the bright idea to bypass the equalizer altogether and when I did, the problem disappeared completely! Now that I've got the hum isolated to my 40 year old Audio Control 520b equalizer, my mind starts to think; now's a good time to buy something new! I didn't see much that interested me, so I started perusing craigslist and eBay, where I even found exact replacements for my beloved 520b. But I'm an electronic tech (although I don't do much to the component level) and I'll admit I'm frugal, so I figured I should take a stab at troubleshooting my equalizer. I've got nothing to lose. I opened up the case. Since this unit is so old, most components used are discrete and likely pretty generic. My first clue to the problem was the hum; likely 60Hz hum, so likely a power supply problem. This equalizer power supply is not too complicated, making it easy to figure out the layout of things. And fortunately, the 40 year old manual I saved had that rarity of, a schematic! And for a bonus, if I used a magnifying glass while reading it, I could see they identified the components by generic part number. In my case, I was given another clue in that the leads to the diodes used in the bridge rectifier looked like they overheated. Now, testing components while in-circuit isn't exactly the right way to test, but it's a good way to triage things and the numbers I was getting with my voltmeter testing the diodes told me at least one of them was shorted. I was also getting weird readings from those two blue capacitors even though they didn't look blown, so I decided to replace all the diodes rather than pull them from the circuit to test individually, and replace both capacitors. Hey; the cost would be much cheaper than buying a new equalizer! Fortunately, there's a "Radio Shack on steroids" electronic store nearby, so obtaining replacement components was a breeze. Looking at the photo now, I see I brain farted and did not buy matching capacitors (they were hanging on the same hook); they both should have had a 25V working voltage rating. No matter; better higher than lower. The only way I noticed was I observed the prices in the photo were different. I can't believe I paid an extra 30 cents! Replacing the components and reassembling things took 30 minutes. I'll admit the component positioning wasn't as professional as factory installed but that's my only disappointment. I'm not sure what that brown smudge is; it doesn't look like a burn mark from overheating or overcurrent flow. I added the marks next to the components to observe correct polarity. Prior to reinstalling the equalizer to see if it would work, I tested all the components out of circuit; one diode was in fact shorted. The capacitors tested fine. I reconnected the unit and it worked! Here's to the NEXT 40 years!
  12. Does anyone make an outdoor yagi FM antenna anymore? All the big names, Winegard, Channel Master, etc., no longer sell them. Should I just buy a VHF TV antenna?
  13. Do NOT use a liquid paint remover. Veneer is so thin it will delaminate, if any. You'll have to sand the finish to determine whether it's veneer or birch plywood. Typically, you would see the "end grain" of the plywood (or layers as they may be called) by sanding where two sides meet. To test sand your Heresy's, first try sanding the back side perimeter. If not that, the bottom edge of the side panels. If you see the layers typically associated with plywood, you'll have your answer. I chose each of those locations because they will not be seen by the user.
  14. I agree with moray james; if the claws didn't penetrate the dust cap, don't worry about it, but consider adding mesh grills. Perhaps add them front and back, because the cat may sooner or later figure out the cloth grills are nice for sharpening claws, too! Speakerworks has what you need.
  • Create New...