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Peter P.

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About Peter P.

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    Forum Veteran

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  • Location
    Meriden CT
  • Interests
    Cycling, music.
  • My System
    Klipsch Heresy II's (with a powered sub), kg sw Subwoofer, Quartets, kg 2.2's, kg 4.2's.

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  1. You may not need an amp, but a preamp/AV processor. You might be able to repurpose an A/V receiver. Those instructions you provided say the TV must be set to PCM (or Stereo only). Have you experimented with those settings?
  2. My guess is, you have to run the optical audio output from the TV to an A/V receiver and not directly into the speakers. Your speakers are probably not meant to be connected to a TV's optical audio output but rather a solely audio output such as a CD player with an optical jack. The TV's optical audio output probably needs to be connected to an A/V receiver and then to a pair of passive speakers vs. directly into the powered speakers.
  3. There must be audio settings in your TV that's sending the dialog to a dedicated center channel which your TV perceived was the soundbar. You have to tell your TV (or whatever controls the audio of your A/V system) that you only have two front speakers. You'll probably also have to specify they are SMALL vs. LARGE. So experiment with the TV's audio settings. What's the make and model of the TV?
  4. Don't laugh; I seem to recall an article in Stereo Review decades ago where they reviewed a reader's system. It had Klipschorns if I recall correctly. To prevent standing waves or some other audible demon, he had the contract tilt (top to bottom) the walls 2 degrees! Not sure whether it was just the side walls or all four.
  5. My only advice is, stacks of equipment where you have to kneel down to turn on/off/adjust/play a record, etc. are just dumb. Arrange the equipment so you can access it while standing. That means some sort of shelving. And don't forget easy access to the wiring; maybe a rack which swings out on hinges or rolls on casters or, in a closet-like setting where there's easy access from the rear. I'm sure an A/V room design company would have all sorts of good looking solutions.
  6. Try connecting the speakers to the other set of terminals in the photo to see if the problem persists.
  7. Place a straight edge against the front baffle. It looks like the lower edge of the baffle is bowed inward. You might be able to fill the gap with wood putty or bondo, but I don't think you'll see a smooth transition from the bondo to the wood after sanding and painting. I'd also be worried about the grilles fitting after the work is done. I'd suggest leaving it as-is, removing the drivers and flowing some glue into the joint from the inside of the cabinet. Once the grille is on I expect you won't notice the imperfection, and I doubt that flaw will hamper the application of veneer. I bought a used a pair of Quartets with water damage on the top of one so bad it rippled the veneer and the wood beneath it. I left it as-is.
  8. THAT is cool! I'd love to hear how they sound.
  9. I don't believe this is true regarding the subwoofer amplifier. My SVS subwoofer has a non-polarized plug.
  10. GET RID OF THE SPLITTER CABLE! You need ONE RCA jack from the receiver to connect to only ONE jack on the subwoofer, and that's the jack labeled "LFE". You're half way there!
  11. The manual for your Denon receiver shows you connect ONE RCA cable from the PRE-OUT Subwoofer jack to ONE subwoofer. Do NOT connect BOTH PRE-OUT Subwoofer jacks to BOTH jacks on one subwoofer.
  12. Shouldn't matter whether the sub is plugged in to the surge protector. I'd plug it in to the surge protector well, to protect it! Since your sub has an LFE input, if your amp/receiver has an LFE output, then you will use just the white RCA cable and white jack on both and not connect anything to the red input on the sub.
  13. No need for an electrician. You can easily verify your outlet is wired correctly with one of these. Just plug into the outlet and interpret the lights. If the subwoofer gives you a shock even with the connection to your stereo removed (RCA cables), then try reversing the plug in the outlet. Try it with every outlet in your house. Try it at a friend's house. These tests will give you a clue as to whether it's the subwoofer or the house wiring. If it's the subwoofer, send it out for service.
  14. Blending subs to a pair of bookshelf speakers would be easy IF you have an amp/receiver with flexible integration settings, mostly high and low pass filtering for the sub and satellites separately. If you're just playing music, it's hard to find a 2 channel power source with such capabilities, or it's expensive, or you have to use a home theater receiver just for music to get the tuning options.. There's definitely a physical matching of speaker to room not just for acoustic issues but aesthetically a speaker may visually dominate a room, or take up so much space as to be an imposition when moving about in a room. Those deep towers do tend to stick out into the room some.
  15. Definitely verify the outlet is wired correctly.
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