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Peter P.

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About Peter P.

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    Forum Veteran

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Meriden CT
  • Interests
    Cycling, music.
  • My System
    Klipsch Heresy II's, kg sw Subwoofer, Quartets, kg 2.2's, kg 4.2's.

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  • Website URL
    http://hubbardpark.blogspot.com/

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  1. Peter P.

    Sub Connection Options

    You may not be able to use the pre-out connections, with or without a splitter. If the pre-out connection provides only a constant level output and not one that is volume-slaved, then it won't work as the input level to the sub will not follow increases in the receiver's volume control. I found this out the hard way. Your solution, like mine, was to use the "B" speaker level outputs to connect to my subwoofer. Therefore, you'll need to choose a subwoofer with speaker level inputs. One drawback to this approach is, your main speakers will still be fed a full-range signal. If you were hoping to send a high-pass signal to your speakers, you'll have to buy outboard high-pass filters and put them in line with your main speakers. That's what I did with my Heresy's.
  2. Peter P.

    Heresy III-No sound

    Can you post a photo of your equipment's connections? That would be a great help and the forum would likely solve your problem in a jiffy.
  3. Peter P.

    Loudspeakers wreaked in Huricain

    "The price for the new? 400-550 dollars street price in the end of 80’s." Click on the link for the complete reference. FYI, insurance companies will usually only pay a non-depreciated/current replacement cost if you have an Actual Cash Value clause on your insurance policy. It could be called a Replacement Cost, or something similar. Check with your insurance agent, as you pay extra for that non-depreciated/replacement cost coverage. Since I had such a clause, when my bike was stolen they paid the current market price to replace the bike; all I had to do was provide a valid estimate from a bike shop. Using the quote above and the average price ($475) and 1990 as the ballpark date, the kg4's would cost $915 in today's dollars.
  4. Peter P.

    Crossover not working?

    Don't throw out the baby for the bath water. Get the amp repaired. Here's a place on eBay that specializes in Klipsch sub amps. Report back if you try them and you're successful. I can't help you with a diagnosis, but I would suggest driving it through the speaker level inputs to see if the problem persists.
  5. Peter P.

    Subwoofer hookup

    I think that's called a DIN connector and there's really no standard pinout on them. I'm not aware of any adapter for that connector so I believe, unfortunately, you won't be able to hook up the computer sub to the powered speakers.
  6. Peter P.

    Subwoofer hookup

    If the "Pre Amp In" connection on the sub is an RCA jack (I can't tell because the cable is plugged in to it), here's what you do: I assume each satellite has a "Sub Out" RCA jack as seen in the photo. You will run a single RCA cable from each satellite "Sub Out" to a "Y" adapter. It sums the left and right signals. Then plug that single connection in to the "Pre Amp In" on the sub, assuming it's an RCA female connection. You may have to get a male/female gender changer somewhere in that hookup, but they're easily available.
  7. Peter P.

    New dual sub setup - boomy

    Is it possible yours is a case of TOO MANY subwoofers? Wouldn't hurt to try shutting one off and performing all your experimentation with just one sub to see what the results are. What are your room dimensions?
  8. Peter P.

    What's Up With the KG SW?

    Power Handling: 100W If yours has the high/low sensitivity switch: 91dB/W/m in the low output, 8 ohm position, 94dB/W/m in the high output, 4 ohm position. There is no minimum power requirement. Frequency response, 38-150Hz. High pass and low pass filtering built in.
  9. Peter P.

    Klipsch KSW12 speaker output not working.

    Thanks for the photo. Wuzzer has provided the correct answer, but let me rephrase it. You've got your speakers connected to the "Speaker Out" connections on the sub, but NOTHING connected to the "Speaker In" connections. You need to run speaker cables from your amp/receiver to the "Speaker In" connections on the sub, and leave the "Speaker Out" connections in place. Then remove the red and white plugs from the "Line In" connections on the sub. Or, remove the wires from the "Speaker Out" connections on the sub and connect them to the speaker connections on your receiver. Leave the "Line In" connections in place. Let us know how that works for you.
  10. Peter P.

    1978 Walnut Klipschorns with Cane Grills - Sold!

    As long as that is Klipsch, horn loaded dust, I wouldn't worry about it.
  11. Peter P.

    Klipsch KSW12 speaker output not working.

    Post a picture of the back panel, so we can verify everything is connected correctly.
  12. While I'm not experimenting with stands and such, I just added a powered subwoofer to my Heresy II's. Yeah; the Heresy's are beasts when cranked and can tickle the floor joists, but when I discovered there was a missing octave, I sought out a solution. Adding subwoofer is it. It's a lot of fun experimenting with crossover frequencies and level matching, but in the end I've got a full range system with that Klipsch signature sound in a smaller package that fits my living space.
  13. Peter P.

    Passive radiator subs, not enough credit?

    I was also under the impression that ported subs require a larger cabinet than an equivalent sized driver in a sealed cabinet. I come to this conclusion from the SVS web site where there offer your choice of an "SB" (sealed") or "PB" (ported) model for several of their lines using the same driver such as a "12". So I would expect a passive radiator version of a sealed sub to have a larger cabinet, yet it sounds like you claim passive radiator subs are merely sealed cabinets with a passive radiator added. I wonder if there's more going on in the cabinet design that gives the designer the option of varying the cabinet size when going to a passive radiator vs. a sealed sibling.
  14. Peter P.

    Passive radiator subs, not enough credit?

    Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't a passive radiator sub just a different flavor of a ported sub? I was under the impression that the benefit of the former over the latter was the lack of potential port noise due to the lack of a port. Someone educate me on passive radiators vs. ports and vents.
  15. Peter P.

    thanks...Peter P.

    I'd bet it's 60Hz noise. Since the passive radiator only responds to what the woofer is producing, you should feel the same movement from the woofer. If not, then you have ghosts and an exorcism is called for. The way to see if it's 60Hz noise is to use a voltmeter that measures frequency. Connect the leads across the woofer terminals and see what the frequency readout tells you.
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