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Peter P.

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Meriden CT
  • Interests
    Cycling, music.
  • My System
    Klipsch Heresy II's (with a powered sub), kg sw Subwoofer, Quartets, kg 2.2's, kg 4.2's.

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  • Website URL
    http://hubbardpark.blogspot.com/

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  1. I have an older SB1000 paired with Heresy IIs, using the LFE input on the subwoofer, and aftermarket 80Hz high pass filters on the inputs to each Heresy. I set the sub's crossover by ear, using the dial indications as a guidline. Same with the level. which is roughly at 11 o'clock. Honestly, you'd never know the sub was on, the transition from sub to Heresy is so seamless.
  2. The size of a horn load subwoofer would be prohibitive for most of us. You're limited by physics so there's not much that can be done to differentiate one brand from another. Probably the only improvement to Klipsch subs I see would be veneer finished sub cabinets that match the finish of Heritage line speakers, including matching veneer on the motor board.
  3. "Labels won't affect the sound," said the yogi at the top of the mountain. I agree with wuzzzer. Even dented dust caps on the speakers can be popped out. If owner will demo them and they work, buy them. They were an extremely popular speaker, and a good value, in their time.
  4. Electronic dance music (EDM), rap, and other types of music will go below the frequency range of most "full-range" speakers. If you want the full experience of some types of music, a subwoofer will be beneficial.
  5. If "break-in" was real, somebody would have proven it by now: Some audiophile magazine would have measured the frequency response out of the box and after those theoretical break-in hours, then displayed the difference, AND proved the difference is audible. I'm still waiting...
  6. It is neither difficult nor ridiculous. Checking the woofer directly at the terminals will tell you whether that connection is broken. There are many ways to troubleshoot electronics. You can start from the beginning of the circuit and work toward the end; you can work backward from the woofer, or you can break the circuit up into segments and test each segment individually. None of the three are better or worse than the others; at least that's what I was taught in school.
  7. NEVER check for resistance with power or a signal applied. You can damage your voltmeter. You must however, disconnect at least one woofer wire from the crossover to "open" the circuit, which will ensure you're measuring just the woofer. Please report back to the forum with what you find.
  8. First, put a voltmeter set to AC Volts across the two screw terminals for the woofer. The number you read should bounce around in conjunction with the music that has some bass. Any rock or Jazz is fine; string quartets, not so much. As you raise the volume, so should the numbers on your meter. If the numbers don't rise and reflect the music, you have a problem with the crossover. Crossovers don't usually go bad. Next, access the woofer through the bottom door, I believe. Make sure the wires are connected to the woofer terminals. One connection could be detached or broken, or the wire could be cut. Last, unplug the wires at the speaker. Set your voltmeter to ohms/resistance and place one lead on each terminal. On the back of the woofer you should see it listed what the speaker's resistance is; usually 8 ohms. You should read 8 ohms +/- a couple ohms. If you read a very high number say, over 100 ohms, the woofer is bad.
  9. Let the buyer make any modifications. Mods infer butcher work, whether done well or not. While sellers think their mods are great, buyers are always looking for original stuff.
  10. The price gap between models can be attributed to marketing. Production costs don't necessarily parallel the increased cabinet sizes or cost of materials, but PERCEIVED tolerable pricing for the consumer-Consumer looks at "the box" and makes a decision whether the price makes sense. For instance, if price went DOWN instead of up with increased speaker size, what would the consumer think and how would that affect purchasing decisions?
  11. That stacking concept was a trend years ago, a gimmick. I think it gets you 6dB of gain, and all of the other possibilities mentioned above.
  12. Man, have those LaScala's have patina!
  13. That's EXACTLY what I was thinking! While I doubt you measured the frequency response after the mod, can you tell us if you noticed any difference in sound?
  14. What I was thinking of was a SMALL version of the Cornwall: Essentially a Heresy (same components and rough cabinet volume) with just enough increased height for a single, or maybe a two-section rectangular vent along the bottom ala the Cornwall. Maybe the only way Klipsch could get satisfactory increased low end extension on the newest Heresy was to port it out the back or maybe if they vented it out the front like I suggest the cabinet volume would be insufficient.
  15. The Heresy came first (1957) and its full-er range brother the Cornwall, arrived in 1959. The Heresy IV was designed with an improved low end extension using a rear port and a slightly larger cabinet. I thought: Wouldn't it have been interesting had Klipsch designed the Heresy IV as a "mini" Cornwall-instead of a rear port, a front vented design. I'm of the unsubstantiated opinion that vented and ported speakers perform (sound) differently at the low end even though I have nothing to back that up. So do you think it is possible to design the Heresy as a mini-version of the Cornwall with say, two front vents just to retain the Cornwall type looks, and possibly get that Heresy IV low end extension? Do you think that wasn't done for financial, performance, or aesthetic reasons? From a marketing standpoint, I'd think it would be a great way to advertise the newest Heresy as having Cornwall-like performance in a smaller package. Feel free to go wild discussing this!
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