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Peter P.

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About Peter P.

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    Forum Veteran

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Meriden CT
  • Interests
    Cycling, music.
  • My System
    Klipsch Heresy II's (with a powered sub), kg sw Subwoofer, Quartets, kg 2.2's, kg 4.2's.

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  • Website URL
    http://hubbardpark.blogspot.com/

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  1. Yes, Nakamichi is god. Garyrc has all the basics covered above. If you can, get a THREE head deck. It allows you to make changes to your settings WHILE RECORDING and listen to the changes as they are made and compare them to the sourc. With 2 head decks, you have to stop the recording, rewind, listen, make changes, and repeat. Also, look for a DUAL CAPSTAN feature. It helps maintain steady tape speed across the head. Without it, you may hear a slight wavering in the playback audio.
  2. Efficiency Low End Heresy II 94dB 50Hz Heresy III 99dB 58Hz Heresy IV * 99dB 48Hz *The Heresy IV is slightly taller than the II or III to accommodate the bass port. Those are from the published specs. So the main differences are in efficiency, and low end extension.
  3. Since you're focused on Heritage Series speakers, Forte's and Heresy's are hands-down favorites when it comes to smaller footprint speakers. Even though I'd love to have a pair of either, Cornwalls or LaScala's would be beasts against my 15' wide wall, and they would have to share space with an air conditioner and a patio door. The new improved ported Heresy is a diminutive powerhouse. The Forte's outperform the Heresy's yet still meet your criteria, and if your budget and space allows, get those first.
  4. I can't wait for GlennyC's estate sale...
  5. Much of my music listening is FM radio. Here's a list of the stations I most frequently listen to: 1. Non-commercial station, 35 miles away, 10kW at the antenna. 2. Low power FM translator station, 4 miles away, 6W at the antenna. 3. Non-commerical station, 25 miles away, 400W at the antenna. Typical Connecticut topography. For years I used a typical rabbit ears antenna with an 8-position phasing switch, for listening. It worked as best as could be expected, but it certainly was ugly! When I was a teenager and early 20-something in the '70's, I had a B.I.C Beam Box but it was the cheapest model (FM-6) with just a 4-position directional switch. Since my receiver at the time only had a center channel tuning indicator, I couldn't tell whether the Beam Box actually improved the signal. At some point decades ago I got rid of it. Recently I was pondering how to improve signal strength of #1 and 3 above and remembered the Beam Box. I did an eBay search and lo and behold, there were several of the top tier FM-10 model of the long out of production device. I bought one on a whim and was lucky enough that the seller was local so I saved shipping costs. I paid $56 including sales tax. There was also an FM-8 model, which was the same but lacked 75 ohm connections. If you find one you could probably save a few bucks and just use a balun adapter. As I mentioned above, the FM-10 was their top-of-the-line offering. It has 75 and 300 ohm antenna inputs on the back, and three adjustment knobs on the front. The "main" knob orients the antenna in the direction of your desired station; next is the Wide/Narrow bandwidth knob which could be useful if adjacent frequencies interfere with listening to your station of interest, and lastly a fine tuning knob covering the FM band, 88-108MHz. You connect it to your tuner and select your station. Set the Wide/Narrow switch to Wide; set the fine tuning knob mid-band, and switch the 4-position switch through each of its positions until you get the highest signal strength on your tuner's signal strength meter. If you don't have one then you tune by ear. After the 4-position switch finds the strongest signal, switch from Wide to Narrow band, then use the fine tuning knob to produce the strongest signal and you're done. The whole process takes maybe 5-10 seconds. I sometimes go through the sequence a second time. My tuner's signal strength indicator has only 3 LED's so there isn't much resolution but they do function as something of a bar graph. Using the Beam Box, I gained maybe 10% in signal strength. It's barely discernible on the signal strength meter, but it's enough of an audible improvement that Station #1 is a bit quieter and both stations 1 and 3 used to cause my tuner's squelch circuit to open and close intermittely; it no longer does that. The Wide/Narrow bandwidth switch is not useful in my situation; I found I would often get higher signal readings with the switch in the Wide position so mostly I leave it there. The 88-108 Fine Tuning knob position often has no bearing on the frequency I'm listening to. I use it to get the highest signal strength on my meter and ignore the indicator position. While certainly no substitute for an outside antenna (not an option in my condo) I think it was a worthwhile purchase. It looks much better than rabbit ears or an inside dipole, and it has three knobs; we audiophiles love to fiddle with knobs! So where's the "Klipsch content"? My Heresy stands guard in the background!
  6. Put a voltmeter across the tweeter connections after disconnecting the wires (Pay attention to which wire connected to which contact on the speaker. It's important.) Set the voltmeter to resistance/ohms. It should measure something close to what's hopefully printed on the back of the magnet i.e., 8 ohms, 6 ohms, something like that. You can also put that same voltmeter, in the AC Volts position, across the tweeter wires. Doesn't matter whether the speaker is connected. Turn up the volume, and the number on the voltmeter should increase. That will tell you the crossover is passing a signal to the speaker. If you perform Skelt's test above, it might be easier to disconnect the midrange driver, to make it easier to hear the tweeter.
  7. I agree with this. In fact, that's why many Yamaha amps (and possibly your AX-592) come with a Loudness control. It's meant to boost the bass that's lost at low volumes by varying the frequency response curve. Here's what it says in the manual for my Yamaha amp: "Loudness Control-Attenuates midrange frequencies to compensate for our ear's reduced sensitivity to bass and treble an low volume. Set it to the Flat position while the Volume control is set to your normal listening level. Turning it counterclockwise will reduce the volume while retaining the natural balance of the low and high frequencies." Experiment with the Loudness control if your Yamaha receiver has one and see if it corrects the issue you're experiencing.
  8. I concur. That's the price range I see locally on craigslist.
  9. ...and put that Miller Lite on ice.
  10. Heresy IV's would be a CASE of Miller Lite, and 23 friends to share it with.
  11. The Heresy IV's will punch you in the face and take your beer.
  12. Surge/spike protectors have two specifications you should be interested in: The amount of energy the unit can absorb, measured in Joules (the higher the number, the better). Response time, measured in microseconds or milliseconds, I forget. Faster is better; lower number is better; microseconds are lower than milliseconds. Example: 100 milliseconds is faster than 200 milliseconds. 900 microseconds is faster than 100 milliseconds. A third spec, with lesser importance, is Clamping Voltage (what's the maximum voltage the unit will allow through to your equipment. Lower is better. The closer to line voltage (120VAC), the better.
  13. Unfortunately, your big box hardware stores only sell this kind. Well, usually it's one conductor of the two. You can use 18 or 16 gauge lampcord which is always all-copper, and fine for runs up to 100ft. Or go to Parts Express as they sell inexpensive all-copper conductor speaker wire. Standard speaker wire has a more supple jacket than lampcord. If you're running the wire in walls, use wire specifically for the application as it has to meet electrical/fire codes.
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