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Peter P.

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Everything posted by Peter P.

  1. Peter P.

    Good Witch or Dead Witch?

    There's an entire industry of people that service stereo equipment. If you can't fix it yourself but love your Panasonic, search the internet and find someone who can. I've kept my 20+ year old Yamaha amp alive this way.
  2. Peter P.

    Purchasing Chorus ii or Cornwall ii???

    The specs for your choices are so similar that either speaker will be fine. Being 10dB more efficient than your JBL's, you should enjoyably crap your pants at the difference. Where I see either Klipsch falling short might be the "bass feel" you enjoy. You may be asking too much of even these speakers to fill such a large volume space with bass. But that could be overcome with a subwoofer. But that can be added at a later date.
  3. Are you running a moving coil cartridge through a moving magnet phono preamp? Or moving magnet through a moving coil preamp? Some receivers/amps have a selector switch.
  4. Peter P.

    SVS or Klipsch sub?

    I'd buy a Klipsch sub out of loyalty to the brand IF they offered a sealed model. SVS does offer a sealed version. The fact they specialize in subwoofers increases their appeal to me.
  5. Peter P.

    Moving La Scala II upstairs solo?

    Practice by carrying your mother-in-law up the stairs. If she makes it unscathed, you can handle the LaScala's. ☺️
  6. Peter P.

    Moving La Scala II upstairs solo?

    Perhaps you can rent a MOTORIZED hand truck, DESIGNED to go up stairs. I know they exist because our company has one for installing racks of equipment. Call around to your local rental or moving stores. If the room is going to be a tight fit for the LaScala's then yeah; get the Heresy's and a subwoofer. There are ALWAYS be practical considerations which will affect your buying decisions.
  7. Peter P.

    Heresy III slope angle?

    I just measured my Heresy II's and they averaged 7.5 degrees, using a Tilt Box II. Hope this helps.
  8. Peter P.

    Help with Heresy 1 1975 binding posts

    You need spade crimp connectors, available at any hardware store. Get the blue ones; they fit typical 16-18ga. wire. Buy a stripper/crimp tool while you're at the store if you don't have one. Strip the wire, crimp on the connector, put it under the speaker terminal screw, tighten down, and you'll feel all "pro".
  9. Peter P.

    Heresy III versus RP 160M (and RP600M)

    You could have purchased a used pair of Heresy 1's or 2's at roughly the same price as your RP-160M's. Interesting question, and after looking at the specs of the RP-160M's, I'd love to compare the two myself. The one performance difference I see is the RP-160M's ported design vs. the Heresy's sealed design. While a ported design extends the low frequency limit of the speaker and improves efficiency some, it reduces that taut bass that acoustic suspension speakers are known for, and eliminates any worry of port noise at higher volumes. FYI; my main speakers are a pair of pre-owned Heresy II's.
  10. I yearn to own a pair but alas, no room for them! https://worcester.craigslist.org/ele/d/charlton-klipsch-lascala-black-crites/6780609641.html
  11. Peter P.

    Subwoofer Placement

    I've got a kg sw subwoofer. Being a bandpass box, it only has output ports, no visible drivers. And without a manual to make suggestions, I get to experiment with subwoofer placement. So let's assume the ports are the equivalent of a typical sub's driver, and if our hypothetical sub has itself a port, we'll assume it's on the same face as the driver. 1. You can point the driver in the same direction as your speakers. Similar to the kg series passive radiators. 2. You can point the driver in the opposite direction, toward the front wall, much like a Forte passive radiator. 3. You can point the driver at a right angle to your main speakers. In the manual for SVS subwoofers, it mentions placing a subwoofer somewhere along an adjacent wall, but from their diagram it isn't clear whether it is pointed in the same direction as the main speakers, or at 90 degrees to the wall the subwoofer is placed against. SVS says this produces accurate response, at a reduced level. 4. You can point the driver toward the ceiling. Never seen this done before. 5. I suppose you could point the driver at the floor and some subs are designed this way. I don't have this option with my subwoofer so I couldn't try it. Anybody using a subwoofer designed like this? So it seems there's really no hard fast rule to subwoofer placement and the owner is free to experiment. I bring this up because with the nature of my room and my setup, I have too many wires running to the sub, then back across the room to the speakers. If I move the sub to unclutter the wiring, I have to make changes in its orientation. For kicks I tried placing it with the ports facing the ceiling. It definitely reduced output but maybe it sounded a bit more refined. Pointing the ports at a right angle to the main speakers i.e., along an adjacent wall (#3) I understand I wouldn't get corner reinforcement. I'd be curious if anyone here is running their sub at a right angle to their main speakers and why. And of course, all comments and opinions are welcome!
  12. I apologize if this should be in the Garage Sale section. I figured it would reach more eyeballs here. Moderators; feel free to move it. There's a kg sw subwoofer on eBay. Seller is in Elgin IL, but will only accept local pickup. Yes; I contacted him via eBay Message but he refused to reply. It already passed one auction without a buyer, so perhaps no one local to Elgin IL wants it. But I want it! Obviously, it would need to be shipped to CT. The first one I purchased on eBay was shipped from Georgia, and cost about $50 and arrived in undamaged condition, so that should give you a ballpark idea. And obviously, I'd compensate you for your troubles. Interested Klipsch fans, please PM me.
  13. It's not a subwoofer in the common sense of the word. It's a passive, bandpass speaker with inputs from both channels, then out to the regular speakers. It's the equivalent of a pair of kg4's without the tweeters-two 8" dual voicecoil woofers with a switch that either uses one voicecoil per woofer or both, changing the output from 91-94db. It doesn't play as low as a subwoofer (I call 30Hz the starting point.); 38-150Hz, but the efficiency perfectly matches my Heresy II's. Since I don't watch movies, I don't need LFE type lows but a full-range speaker equivalent. When I bought the first one, I discovered it definitely fills in that 1/2 octave below the Heresy -3dB cutoff and turned the Heresy's into keepers-almost. I'm so torn to buy a pair of kg4's or kg 3.2's and do away with the extra wiring. I have also been tempted to buy a true subwoofer (I lust for an SVS SB-1000) but I'm cheap, and I don't want to pay the extra electric bill when it's in idle mode, which I calculated out to 36 cents/year, I think! Anyway, I initially had the first kg sw in my basement, filling in a pair of kg2.2's and the results were dramatic. Since I brought it upstairs to pair with the Heresy's, my basement system is longing to get back some low end, hence the search for another one.
  14. Peter P.

    Doublestacking Corner Horns

    Scroll down the page to see it's been done. Due to the height vs. base, you definitely need to secure the assembly so the cat doesn't knock it over. ☺️
  15. Peter P.

    Sound cutting out

    I had something similar happen to me, and it perplexed me for YEARS, despite my troubleshooting. The cause was the rotary Input Selector knob. Not only does it chose the source, it has to send both channels on their merry way. If I would wiggle it oh so slightly, I could reproduce the problem. The same thing happened on the rotary Record Out selector knob on my amplifier. Interestingly enough, both devices were Yamaha products so the switch is the same design. Perhaps your problem is similar in origin.
  16. I was wondering how you mounted them on the wall like that. ☺️
  17. Peter P.

    Forte II - trouble taming brightness

    Use of an equalizer may be able to tame your treble ills. The good thing is, if it doesn't, you can easily remove it from the system. There's no shame in using an equalizer!
  18. Peter P.

    Measuring Output From A Preamp

    You have to have a signal going through the preamp outputs to have something to measure. The catch is, what level you get depends on the level the source is putting out. And yes; you can measure it with a typical voltmeter. For instance, put a CD in a CD player and connect a pair of RCA cables to the output. You connect a cable because it's easy to reach with a voltmeter lead. If you're lucky, your voltmeter has a Max Hold setting. Play one song on a CD and clip your voltmeter leads to the center pin and the shield of either red or white channel. Set the voltmeter for AC volts, play a song, and observe the number at the end of the song. Doesn't matter which voltmeter lead connects to which terminal of the RCA cable; you're measuring AC volts so polarity is irrelevant. Now take that exact same RCA cable, red or white but not both cables, and connect it to your CD input on your preamp. Play the same song and measure the output at the preamp output jack. Then take that exact same RCA cable, red or white, and connect it to the other channel on the CD input, and measure at the preamp output. You want to use the same channel because CD's play in stereo, and there could be a left/right difference between the information on the disc. Make sense?
  19. Peter P.

    Klipsch RP-160M cracked bottom

    That was my initial thought. I'd say buy 'em and make those simple repairs. They'll look great.
  20. Peter P.

    What do You Listen to That's not Music?

    Ha! I just received Laurie Anderson's "Landfall" with the Kronos Quartet. She never disappoints me, even though I can't figure her out. I don't own a television, so the stereo is on A LOT. When not listening to music on FM, I listen to NPR. My favorite local non-commercial radio station, WPKN, has some interesting programming which often combines music with readings, and interviews, among other things. They're in the middle of fundraising right now, so if you choose to check them out, don't judge the station by the current fundraising. Download some of their archived programs instead.
  21. Some speakers come with bass ports. It's known that ported speakers play lower, but they roll off steeper at the low end. Also, their bass attack is not as tight. So why don't manufacturers provide the ability to plug the port and allow the owner to choose their flavor? Has anyone ever plugged ports that weren't intentionally designed that way? Also, anyone notice the difference between speakers that are front ported vs. rear ported? I have a kg sw subwoofer I bought used with no manual, so I have no positioning instructions. That means I'm free to do what I want! I'd been running the ports facing the room and thought the bass was a little missing. This morning I turned the sub around, with the port 5" from the wall. What a difference!
  22. Peter P.

    R-820F speakers?

    A casual search could not reveal the specs or pricing for the SM series speakers you mention. Honestly, if bass is performance is what you're looking for, don't try to find a speaker that outperforms your Infinity's. There are many choices out there and it will be too subjective. I suggest you merely augment your Infinity's with a subwoofer, especially since you don't seem to find fault with your existing speakers. It will be less expensive and involve less luck and guesswork. And if real veneer is another of your benchmarks, then find a subwoofer with a real veneer finish or have your subwoofer of choice veneered by a woodworking shop. There are people out there that can do this type of work.
  23. I wouldn't sweat any toe-in or precise speaker location ideas; you're looking just for music-it's not a soundroom. Since the speakers are heavy, it will be a bear to move the speakers into and out of that location. You might want to leave sufficient space to grab the speakers or at least slip a piece of rope around them should you need to pull them out of location. The floor surface will need to be sufficiently frictionless too, for various reasons. Carpet, or maybe casters under the speakers might be worth thinking about. You could hide the casters behind wooden skirts or trim boards. Don't forget to post pictures of the finished product!
  24. Peter P.

    Eye Opening Experience

    We have a winner! Room dimensions, furnishings, treatments, speaker location, seating position; I feel they affect audio quality more than the speakers themselves. If you must, just buy a pair of Klipschorns and crush your family's friend's system!
  25. Easy to diagnose. You need a voltmeter. Set it to ohms/resistance. Disconnect the wires from the crossover to the tweeter (first pay attention to which wire goes to which terminal so you reconnect them correctly), and put your meter leads on the each wire- alligator clip leads help here. You should read a low resistance; less than say, 10 ohms. If the meter doesn't read anything, the voicecoil is open and the tweeter is bad. To check the crossover, set the voltmeter to AC Volts. Clip those alligator leads on to the screw terminals you removed the wires from. Turn the volume all the way down, and play something over the speakers. You should read 0 Volts or close to it. Now, increase the volume and watch the readout of the voltmeter. As you increase the volume, the readout should go up. It will bounce around due to variations in the music, so if you can play interstation FM hiss it will be easier for you to observe. If you're not familiar with this it will look cool that you can actually change the reading by turning the volume knob! It will also confirm the crossover is fine. If the reading doesn't respond to varying the volume control, your crossover is bad. Report back with your findings, if any.