RCB1725
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Posts posted by RCB1725
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Hows the pipe repair coming?
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Jimmy;Those look absolutely and downright swell. Whats say...time to crank out the next project. Hows the weather ?
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Lars, I am very aware of special needs children/adults having one in my own immediate family. Also, my Sister has just retired after 40 years of teaching special needs children.
I consider myself an educated individual with well over 6 years of High School but for the life of me I cant understand your question.
Lets leave "children" out of the equation and just speak of life. That being the scenario, I would allow Mr.Jackson to proceed with his assignment.
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RCB - Would you please restate rephrase what you are saying.
WHO here is the "bad" guy.
Are you saying the interrogator, or did I misunderstand you ? Lars
OK, one guy is a bad guy....that's the Hollywood actor portraying the terrorist. The other guy is a real bad *** Mfer who will stop at nothing ( except if hes joined by his wife for a super healthy organic picnic lunch on a beautifully groomed lawn ) to extract needed information.
I think their both "bad" ( for obvious reasons ) but the one whos badder ( badder as in gooder ) in this case is Jackson.
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Without question; the interrogator.
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Very dark movie. No doubt we have people who are capable of such deeds.
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I always thought Nat King Cole had a spectacular voice…very smooth.
Yep....me too !
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If you like Sinatra find his live recordings with the Basie band. Great stuff!
One of my favorite recordings is Sinatra Live at the Sands with the Count Basie Orchestra and Quincy Jones arranging. Karsoncookie; if you'd like to give it a listening to without shelling out the money just in case you end up not liking it , you can listen to it in its entirety on Grooveshark or Spotify. Its a stellar classic recording and sounds wonderful through the Klipsch.
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You can get a nice taste of Sinatra for about $10.00. The Jazz Label; " Real Gone " has two different sets right now with more in the works. Vol1 consists of 8 records on 4 Cd's and deals with his earlier stuff from about 1957 to 1960. Great Big Band recordings with arrangers like May and Riddle and some mighty fine musicians to boot. Vol2 consists of 9 records on 4 Cd's and not only features great musicians and arrangers but many say this period; 1961 thru 1962 is when Sinatra was at his peak.. voice wise.
Were talking roughly $20.00 plus shipping for 17 classic Sinatra recordings.
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I hope we can all agree that there really are two scoops of raisins in Kellogg Raisin Bran
Raisin Bran Crunch is much better.
4 out of 5 Doctors surveyed would recommend either one considering the percentage of Fiber they have to offer.
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I hope we can all agree that there really are two scoops of raisins in Kellogg Raisin Bran
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dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener.
use the correct wood filler. i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store. its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling.
Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish.
Bondo is a brand name not a generic name, been around forever. My grandfather showed me how to use it when i was a young boy working in his wood shop.
It holds up well laid thick as well, i used it to repair our front door and fill in the deadbolt hole over 30 years ago and you still couldn't tell where it was repaired at one time.
I stand corrected on my use of the word "generic " when I should have used " brand ".. so many products on the market today that imitate Bondo I labeled it as say ; a Latex Paint instead of being in a class by itself.
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im sure bondo products will work, but in my experience bondo didnt last on wood as long as real wood fillers. ive been doing auto body & mechanical for 20+ years & automotive type "bondo" products are best used for metal or fiberglass etc.
DAP & other brand wood filler is intended for far bigger "holes" or repairs than just screw holes, have used it on 1/2" deep & 2-3" wide repairs with great results.
but as with everything, each person has their own opinion & preference. use what you want, just follow the products instructions.
Good point you've brought up. Bondo needs something to grab itself onto.. with the exception of something like a screw hole or real deep gouge. With it being used in an auto body repair the 80 grit sanding pattern is "grip " enough for the Bondo to adhere itself to. On a veneer repair where your only talking a 1/16" it helps to first tap some small brads into the wood and below the surface for the Bondo to grab onto. A 1/2" brad with a head on it will work . On large areas the more brads the merrier. They can be tapped in at an angle to provide extra grab.
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dont use automotive bondos on wood. & they all require a hardener.
use the correct wood filler. i think DAP makes a very good one available at any menards or home depot type store. its easily sandable & doesnt use a hardener. some say they are even stainable but obviously will still be visible as the veneer is gone on any hole you are filling.
Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish.
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Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy.
Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.
do you have one brand in mind - and how much would you need to do a full pair of scalas in a bad shape -is there such a thing as bondo that you dont have to mix with hardener - kinda like - just open the can and use -or no -
No. Bondo is meant to be painted over be it a car or a piece of wood or fiberglass. All Bondo needs a hardener to complete the chemical reaction to take place . No hardener means no dry for ever or ever Amen.
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Greg Roberts of Volti Audio uses this product for wood restorations :
-Minwax Hi-Performance Wood Filler. - here is one of his Khorn restorations - http://www.klipschupgrades.com/mkhorn.shtml
He said this and I quote : The repairs made with this filler are stronger than the wood, and they do not chip off like the wood edges.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-12-oz-High-Performance-Wood-Filler-21600/100376245
Products like that would be fine for a " stained " restoration project but for a paint grade finish there are much better products available.
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I agree...pictures are a big help.
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Following that advice has allowed my listening experience to actually sound more like it does now than it did B4.
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Will Watco Rejuvinating Oil darken the the wood? I used Watco natural (the name escapes me now) and it darkened the Forte II, not happy.
Rejuvenating Oil is basically Linseed Oil...a tiny bit of Varnish...and Paint Thinner/Naptha.
The other Oils in the Watco Family contain Linseed Oil...a tiny bit of Varnish...Vegetable Oil...and Paint Thinner/Naptha. Their line of "stain colored Oils " have oil pigments/analine powders/ etc.....to achieve the " color " .
Any oil will to a degree change the color of the wood. The Rejuvenating Oil since it contains no vegetable oil ( V.O. acts like a color reducer ) will be a bit darker. Because its called " Rejuvenating " its darker to hide/minimize/fill in any minute scratches. Of course if you have deeper scratches that really penetrate the wood...an oil will only do so much to remedy the scratch.
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Ive decided to make a set of replacement cables for the 2.1 system. I have quite a bit of Monster Cable left over from my shop installation I did a number of years back. Its the XPHP Presision Cable with Magnetic Fluxtube and LPE Dielectric goodness built into it. Ill be using the Amphenol Audio KM2P 3.5 Plugs from B&H. As far as the other end of the cable that attaches to the Subwoofer Im not sure yet if Ill just slip the wire into the snap clip or go with a crimped on Gold Plated Plug. Time will tell though, should have the 3.5 plugs in a week or so.
If you go with plugs, then how will you get it into the amplifier's wire connectors?
Good question... somewhere in my " stash" and I mean somewhere; I have a bunch of left over Gold Plated Plugs I got at Radio Shack years upon years ago.Ive searched for a couple hours the past day or so and I cant seem to find them online so I hope to find them here in my " stash ".
What I really liked about them is that you inserted about 1/2" of stripped wire into one end which was just a round hole... then you crimped down real hard with a vise grip or channel lock to secure the wire. Once you did that ; the other end of that plug ( where the wire was crimped into ) had about a 3/4" long post that stuck out. The width of that post was only about 1/16" wide and it will easilly fit into the snap clip on the back end of the Subwoofer.
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Ive decided to make a set of replacement cables for the 2.1 system. I have quite a bit of Monster Cable left over from my shop installation I did a number of years back. Its the XPHP Presision Cable with Magnetic Fluxtube and LPE Dielectric goodness built into it. Ill be using the Amphenol Audio KM2P 3.5 Plugs from B&H. As far as the other end of the cable that attaches to the Subwoofer Im not sure yet if Ill just slip the wire into the snap clip or go with a crimped on Gold Plated Plug. Time will tell though, should have the 3.5 plugs in a week or so.
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Decent bookshelf speakers (or even studio monitors, which are about the same size) would be a very good choice because they can have a much better sound, but they have a big footprint and require extra desk space and they can also cost a lot more than the ProMedia 2.1.
I still say that the best thing to do is, pull the desk out just far enough so that the subwoofer can be put on the floor behind the bottom shelf. Judging from the photo, it looks like there is enough room just as long as the desk is pulled out a little bit.
The exact dimensions of my subwoofer's cabinet are bigger from what Klipsch says it is, so they as follows (according to my tape measure):
D: 11"
W: 10.25"
H: 9.5"
So, that's 11 inches deep, 10.25 inches wide (across the front where the port is), and 9.5" high. Now, even though the cabinet itself is 11" deep, you still need to give the amplifier room to "breathe". So this means that if you were to have the front port facing forward, then I would say that the rear should have no less than 2" of open space behind it (the more the better so that the heat can freely rise off the amplifier and easily be replaced by cooler air instead of building up against a wall). Of course, you can also just have the subwoofer speaker facing out (port facing left, amplifier facing right). I honestly don't know if that would change the sound at all, but you might have no choice, and it's certainly better than placing it on the shelf. Plus, you would only have to worry about exactly 10.25" instead of like 13".
I'm curious: from where will you buy the ProMedia 2.1 system? I encourage you to spend some time on eBay hunting down an older model that has the plug-in satellite speaker design for two reasons:
- You can upgrade the stock speaker wires with something much better (like these, which are VERY nice) for a noticeably superior sound
- I've seen reports that these older models generally have a superior sound to what Klipsch is producing today. I have no idea why, but here are my guesses: possibly a higher-quality amplifier and a higher quality control pod. It might also be due to higher-quality speakers (like the subwoofer, mid-range woofers and tweeters).
I can tell you right now though that if you can succeed in getting one that's in good condition, then you will be very happy. In fact, here's one now for $117.99 after shipping!!!
Money shot: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/56kAAOSweW5U6moi/s-l1600.jpg
Pardon my excitement, BUT JUMP ON IT! lol
I found another one for $115.00 after shipping! It has an extra satellite speaker too for some reason:
If you bought this one, then I think that the extra satellite speaker would come in handy if you ended up needing any extra satellite parts.
I just realized though that both of these have no speaker wires in the photos. So, if they both don't come with the speaker wires, then you would be forced to buy some (which would be a good excuse to buy the $25 premium Monster wires that I linked above). I would ask the sellers because it can be fun to compare the stock speaker wires to the premium ones!
Anyway, for comparison, here's what I was lucky enough to get:
Scroll down and check it out in the photos!
I'm extremely happy that I didn't buy a brand new one because then I'd be regretting that I can't replace the crappy stock speaker wires. Those wires are only 22 AWG aluminum junk. lol Compare that to 16 AWG wires with fine copper strands, superior plugs, soldered bare wire ends (using a Silver solder), and a superior and very flexible jacket. In addition to that, the negative and positive wires are wound in opposite directions: the negative wire is wound clockwise and the positive wire is counter-clockwise. I don't know WHY they're wound in opposite directions, but I'm assuming that it's to have even less resistance for the signal, resulting in an even better sound. After all, the less resistance there is, the better the sound is. The whole goal of high-end speaker wires is to get as close as possible to the performance that you'd get from a solid and thick copper wire (like coat hanger wire) without sacrificing any flexibility.Anyway, there are a couple more ProMedia 2.1s on eBay than just these two that look like they MIGHT be the older version, but they didn't take enough photos. So, of course, ask the seller if the speaker wires plug into the satellites or if they're built-in (hardwired). Of course, you could buy a brand new ProMedia 2.1 and then replace the satellites with the plug-in ones, but my problem with that would be: what if the amplifier in the new models really is inferior to the older ones? Y'know? Not only that, but then you'd be spending extra money just to get the superior satellite speakers.
Whatever you do though, I hope that you can place the subwoofer on the floor behind the shelf.
Nice write up Two Cables, I have had the ProMedia 2.1 set up for about 10 years and it works flawlessly. Only one issue is that my Parrot has chewed through some of the insulation on the speaker wire. After seeing your posting about the stock speaker wire replacement set, Im going to get rid of the electric tape I have now and get a set of those off Ebay. Glad to have read your post...great job.
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Its amazing what Mother Nature can do . Like a fine wine that mellows with age , wood cant help but develope a beautiful patina. Pine and Cherry and Rosewood age particularly well. Those Klipschorns are stunning.
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Sometimes it depends on the lighting and exposure.
Nice presentation Khornukopia. I likes both of em.
I'm extremely happy that I didn't buy a brand new one because then I'd be regretting that I can't replace the crappy stock speaker wires. Those wires are only 22 AWG aluminum junk. lol Compare that to 16 AWG wires with fine copper strands, superior plugs, soldered bare wire ends (using a Silver solder), and a superior and very flexible jacket. In addition to that, the negative and positive wires are wound in opposite directions: the negative wire is wound clockwise and the positive wire is counter-clockwise. I don't know WHY they're wound in opposite directions, but I'm assuming that it's to have even less resistance for the signal, resulting in an even better sound. After all, the less resistance there is, the better the sound is. The whole goal of high-end speaker wires is to get as close as possible to the performance that you'd get from a solid and thick copper wire (like coat hanger wire) without sacrificing any flexibility.
Why does the green light stay on?
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Depends on which version you have. When I'm listening to it its turned on and when I'm not listening to it its turned off. Have the original manufactured model and never had an issue turning it on or off. Still going strong after all these years.