RoboKlipsch
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Posts posted by RoboKlipsch
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Spears and Munsil is still the standard afaik.
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13 hours ago, haydukej said:
I think I have about 26 inches from floor to frame of the screen, so a belle is a no go. A heresy should just fit with a bit to spare. For a moment I was wondering if I could turn a la scala on its side, but without the squaker and tweeter on top, it might look a tad silly and lose a bunch of the horizontal coverage. Thanks for the input fellas.
Make sure to include a few inches for tilting. Do not turn sideways it ruins the imaging.
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I have that Denon its a great unit. i got mine for 200 a year ago and have seen them offered as low 150.
its perfect and works amazingly with great build quality
it is not 4k so if your tv is i would steer elsewhere
it uses audyssey xt not xt32 but now that i have used both i wouldnt be concerned with that
i cant comment on the others i havent used them
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We had a gtg at eng399s place recently. at the meet we had htm10s htm12s 1099s titan xls a prototype titan along with the vbss subs, nearfields and 21s. that doesnt count all the 2 channel stuff ☺
mic calibration was questioned but in room measurements of his dedicated theater including nearfield were at 140db....regardless of if it was 120 or more....one guy with a mic measured the nearfield bass as 40db -- 40db boost lol. gunshots may have been louder and more percussive than real ones. ddj was there too we had a great time. eng had upgraded his nearfield from infinities (my signature contains half) to the legacies (also in my signature)....he has six behind his back row at 2 inches away....just enough for excursion. the improvement in sharpening gunshots was amazing.
you arent missing much with 12 seos. same idea i think a very big room appreciates a huge waveguide but even small rooms benefit a lot. any work well imo and klipsch is similar maybe not quite the same but close. theres no downside to the huge waveguide
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i think the highs are clearer....sparkly lol ☺
measuring response they blow right through 20k very impressive... not that i can hear it anyway
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Congrats!
I would try setting the crossover for all speakers ar 60hz then try 80hz. One of those will sound better...try 2 or 3 favorite songs to determine.
Make sure speakers are set to small. When using a modern avr you dont use the subs filter, turn the dial all the way to the highest setting and let the avr handle the crossover.
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The new ones are not a huge change they mostly damped the tweeter horns i do not think the geometry was hugely improved
if you look at the specs of most klipsch you will see they describe the horns as say 90 x 60, and your graph backs that up. Within that range the frequencies covered by the horn have what is close to constant directivity -- the whole area within the angle has an almost identical response. below the crossover where the woofer is involved it becomes much harder to have constant directivity....because frequencies much above 500hz become directonal without a horn or waveguide so careful design is required to transition between the speakers and often the tweeter must be close to the woofer in order to make this work. so the tweeter is most definitely constant and in some cases the woofer and crossover can be designed to achieve this too. your graph is why so many people like klipsch.
youthman jbl and other designers looked at horn and woofer speaker designs that provide an almost constant and consistent response within a defined angle, often 90 degrees horizontally and say 60 degrees vertically. this design controls the output and reduces reflections especially from ceilings. the goal is for every seat to get an identical response and klipsch by the very nature of its purpose and design comes close to constant directivity. its much like how a theater is designed to get similar response from each seat by using lots of speakers.....this version is more for smaller rooms where you achieve a similar goal but dont need multiple speakers for each channel to achieve it.
compare a klipsch to a non horn loaded speaker and move off axis....the sound degrades much more quickly than the klipsch. this is the genius of klipsch designs and specifically their tractrix horns andis partof the concept on constant directivity.
i have a set of htm12s with 15" waveguides (horns) specifically to achieve this. for comparison a rf7 has a 10" horn and a rf52 has a 5" horn. the shape of the horn is extremely well researched for decades and thats the basics of waveguides and directivit. i believe jbl pioneered constant directivity
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I had a dh750 up until a few days ago and it was more than enough. Watts are never a problem with Klipsch.
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i think you will find the 250s to be better integrated and better sounding together
the 450c is way overhyped imo. its great but its relative and 2 small bookshelves wont be great with a 450c imo
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hey guys....i have heard rf7s and rp280s....i wouldnt comment if i hadnt
fortes i have not heard..intriguing!
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1 hour ago, Grizzog said:
RF-7ii over RP-280. They are worth the price difference at the prices the speakers can be had.
...Forte III over both of them by a large margin though.have not heard them please share your thoughts!
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glass is avoided for theaters...a solid wall there will make a huge difference.
if you took that first pane of glass and convert that to drywall you can fix a lot of symmetry issues and use glass for the rest.
you have never seen a movie theater with glass walls for a reason...they want to absorb reflections and glass has a set of properties that leak bass but reflect higher frequencies badly and unevenly across the spectrum.
if you made it glass you would then want acoustic panels
you need panels anyway for a small room
room looks amazing or at least the mockup does
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i would suggest your front speakers should not be smaller than the surrounds.
you could get 15s to replace the 14s up front
or you might get another pair of 14s to match the fronts
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IME rf7s simply sparkle and are the true reference for klipsch
the rp series is terrific but does not match the rf7 at all
everything on the rf7 is better from what i know....now they are dampening the horn on the rf7 which was the only advantage i know of to the rp series....which is a nice addition.
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On 10/11/2017 at 1:52 PM, SWL said:
.....the real upgrade was tweaking the KLF-30 at a 45 degree angle. Sounds so much better this way. The sound is liquid. So much more detail. So much more...everything. Just gotta tilt yer head a little.
Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
decoupling it from the floor would reduce midbass from around 300 down but mostly at around 125 to 250 ime
subs + mains are combining for too much
u could raise the mains off the floor a foot or more (at least the diameter of the woofer) to get a similar effect
u could move them off the back wall further
or flip them over and raise them to just below tweeter ear level to eliminate the floor coupling or
PEQ could reduce the peak and reduce decay time with them on the floor
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Infinite baffle the back closet and keep the rsws.
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I see the door at the back. I personally don't like the seats on the right wall. Could you center 2 seats in the back row and the 3 seater in its row? The sound will be much better for what would be at least 1/3rd of the seats.
1. I had the previous model the rf52s...like the rp250f. They are plenty imo and the driver tweeter combos will match perfectly to a 450c and rp250s.
2. No. And you need 2 of the top of the line subs for what u want. Totally serious.
3. The larger speakers have larger horns which can provide better coverage to a larger area. But your setup imo is fine with a smaller set and i would upgrade only if u have money left at the end after buying 3 subs.
4. Imo....No....Yes....and Yes.
5. No that is not good design for 5.1. For Atmos yes but not 5.1.
6. You need more like 150 watts if you want to reach reference at the back row or between rows.
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1 because in 2 the right speaker has no sidewall making it hard to balance. the long way of the main room is best but option 1 provides balance for the fronts. you need to treat the wall behind option 1 to absorb reflections coming back....the back wall behind the theater.
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Special effects go down as low as 7hz (depth charges in u571) in HT and is more common than the past. I consider 15hz to be the practical limit in homes but its easy to get extension to 10 in a lot of rooms.
JAs ideas are great listen to his suggestions above. add to your 12s if anything. 2 15s is better than 2 12s but i wouldnt go to 1 sub from 2 in most situations. So yes a 115 is a much better sub but until u get 2 (used?) dont replace the existing ones.
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On 10/22/2015 at 3:19 PM, stygz said:
Here is some pics.
looks great! trying moving towards and away from corner a foot or so to experience different levels of bass to see if u have a perfect spot.
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On 10/21/2015 at 4:05 PM, MetropolisLakeOutfitters said:
I don't understand why it does this, especially with pro amps. If you follow its directions you'll often be cranking your gain up 2/3 of the way just go kill the sub output 8-12 db. Makes no sense to me, especially since the higher the gain, the more noise floor you'll have. Seems like it would be better to boost output from the receiver then kill the gain to reduce hissing and whatnot.
i did exactly this. extremely high sensitivity full range speakers causes noise when preout to inuke. i set the gain with the knobs then lowered it about 8db in the dsp. then the avr upped the signal and full calibration with no noise. still have a few db to spare. ☺
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On 10/5/2017 at 9:03 AM, Woofers and Tweeters said:
A problem with one of my rooms is it's close to being a cube. Not sure what I will do about not having good 2 channel sound.
a cube room has potential issues but can be great. proper treatment and not sitting dead center (forward or back) will help. setting it up slightly off center or asymetrically can also help
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http://arqen.com/acoustics-101/room-setup-acoustic-treatment/
I find this to be one of the better primers. There are many sites with info but beware reading on sites where they sell you foam. Dont buy or use it except in rare circumstances.
Absorption is the go to physics for acoustic control. Diffusion is equal and sometimes greater in quality but is tricky and has many requirements to function properly. So absorption is how to begin. It is easy and fun and very interesting.
Shortest version is covers near reflection points for all main seats with 2" or better yet 4" of rockwool 60. Yes a space between the panel and wall is helpful but NOT critical. Dont worry about it.
Bass traps or properly a broadband absorber in as many corners as you can afford aesthetically and financially. You cannot have too many of these. Its unlikely but possible to cover too many near reflection points but you cant have too many traps.
I just added more. I now have 12 2x4 traps and 18 or so near reflection panels (2") in a L shaped room maybe 2300cft. Its amazing. Movie surround is so sharp and clear its a mini theater.
I can give advice if you post pictures of your room. Any surface near a speaker or LP can be treated within reason its more what looks good and sounds great balanced.
If youd like to see pictures how to treat certain things or how to build just ask.
It is best to buy a few panels first to see pro quality. Then learn DIY to do similar for 1/3 or even 1/4 the price....plus labor.
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Great thread ☺
I think the best ones dont even require a link we already have them preloaded lol.
How about i Plant one or activate one from your past --
If it keeps on raining levee's gonna break
Please enjoy. 😈
Bass Causing Low note Saxaphone Rattle.
in Home Theater
Posted
That sounds like a particular resonant frequency in that room. In HT where we blast bass to 110db+ we often spend time with test tones to identify the frequencies that rattle objects or walls to try and damp them. Your issue happens in all rooms especially ones with hard floors. If u use a sub decoupling from the floor may help. Simply place it on a rubber pad or even an entry mat.