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Honeybadger

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Posts posted by Honeybadger

  1. Not a clue what the mod costs.

     

    I will see if I can find the instructions so you can mod the crossovers yourself.

     

    Here is what I could find. I think Dean said the most critical part of this mod was to parallel the 10 ohm resistor with the 2 ohm.

    I believe the resistors need to 10-12 watt.

    The capacitors: use whatever brand you like, don't mess with the inductors.

     

    I believe I used Dayton capacitors.

     

    You have to get a little creative to get some of the parts to fit.

     

    I have also read dynamat the back of the hf horn. This mod I never did.

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    • Like 1
  2. I had minimal success from my class D amps. They did everything they were supposed to, but has smeared imaging, and rather lifeless.

     

    It has been a couple years since I experimented with them, and the ones I purchased were sub $200 units, maybe the new ones have improved.

  3. On ‎9‎/‎17‎/‎2016 at 0:35 PM, fromnowon said:

    Sure.  Interior dimensions for the cabinets:
    11.25 W
    12.75 D
    42 H
    just under 3.5 cubic feet interior. I'll attach a picture.  I built them over the summer out of baltic birch - found a nice source for it and it makes them look Klipsch-like.  The two ports are supposed to tune them to about 32 Hz.
    The woofers are 2-8” Dayton 295-377 4 ohm.  I intend to wire them in series to create an 8-ohm load.  

    Hoping to get them to sound as good as possible and I like the idea of incorporating the T2As if I can.

    Thanks again.

     

     

    speakers.jpg

    BB1.jpg

    Really nice wood work. Wow

  4. Won't you be able to use a lightning  to 3.5mm adapter?

     

    The lightning - usb connector had a rough start, I have 2 bad cable, but that was a vender issue.

    The connector itself is a well designed self cleaning connection. Most of the issues I have seen with lightning were caused by aftermarket cables.

  5. 18 hours ago, ricktate said:

    Well grippers are the furniture pad things I got from wally world. HDBR had told me of them years ago. If your speakers are sitting on a smooth surface these will grip and separate the speaker from the floor. They are not called grippers anymore but they still have them. I tried them on my Scalas first not sure how to prove it works but try them for your self. If I remember the story from HDBR he helped do an install one time and used them and PWK even approved. Have to ask him for that story again.

    Thanks.

  6. 23 minutes ago, Budman said:

    i'm no expert but these were made for the Lascala and the Belle

    both are 3 way speakers

    I agree, the proper ALK crossover for the KHorn is the AP12-350 and the AP15-6000 or ES5800.

     

    For three way operation the AP or ES filter element needs to be added.

     

    That said, this a great price and a fine crossover.

     

     

  7. 27 minutes ago, Chris A said:

    That's a Geddes patent.  I think that it works fairly well, but the way that our legal system works, when someone patents it, then they hold out for money, even if they didn't produce the product themselves.

     

    Note that the Geddes patent on an updated phase plug design for a compression driver was allowed to expire due to failure to pay the maintenance fees, but the patent on the foam was updated, i.e., patent update fees were paid.  That should be a clue.

     

    What I've found is this: better is better.  Straight-sided horns are better than curved ones in the ways that we've discussed above.  If I could also have a foam  plug to try out for a very low added cost, I'd probably do that, too. But...

     

    Tom Danley failed to pay his fees on the original multiple entry horn patent design for his prior company affiliation, and the patent is now expired (two years ago as of August of this year, which makes reinstatement for "an oversight in paying patent maintenance fees" much more problematic.  That design is very useful to my needs, and is now free of legal encumbrances.

     

    Chris

    What I have found is Tractrix horns sound great, and they do not require equalization, 3 amplifiers and active crossover.

     

    I have tried it all, and gone back to passives with Tractrix.

     

    You pimp this product on the forum more than any vendor.

  8. 5 hours ago, Chris A said:

    I've recently been reviewing a source on the design of horns (sometimes referred to as "waveguides" but this is actually an attempt at branding of one author, Dr. Earl Geddes).  Here is an excerpt from a discussion on "higher order modes" (HOMs) of horns:

     

    "HOMs will be generated to some extent in any device with non-straight walls. In essence [HOMs} are the diffraction of the throat wave around the curves in the walls."

     

    Some points that I think are important to note that are related to "listener fatigue" and HOMs of horns:

     

    1) Most of these discussions are usually focused on horns that reproduce midrange frequencies.

     

    2) HOMs emerge from the horn's mouth at a frequency that's related to its throat diameter.  For 2" horns with non-straight walls, that occurs at or above 4 kHz, for 1" diameter horns, it's ~8 kHz and higher.  The closer that you cross over to these frequencies with horns that have non-straight walls, the more that you'll notice that "frying bacon" sound (for horns with slots in their throats) or "horn sound" for horns that have smooth interior walls but that have curved side walls.

     

    3) For HOMs created below this "cut-on frequency" (i.e., HOMs emerging from the horn's mouth) these HOMs are called "evanescent modes", and don't directly emerge from the horn's mouth. But the HOMs are reflected back to the horn's compression driver where they interact with the compression driver diaphragm to produce complex interactions which result in the creation of added distortion which is especially audible at higher SPLs.

     

    3)  The K-510 and K-402 horns have flat walls (except near their mouths where they roll out tangent at the horn's mouth using a tractrix curve--which prevents the "waistbanding" of the horn's polar coverage just above the lowest frequencies that the horn can support before losing its polar control).  These straight-sided horns are extremely clean sounding and have no "horn sound" relative to exponential horns such as the K-400, K-500, etc. 

    I thought Geddes was using 30 PPI foam to control high order modes.

     

    Another paragraph taken out of context: Controlling HOM  Having realized the importance of the HOMs there are things that are quite separate of the waveguide  design that one can do to minimize these undesirable characteristics.  I have learned that the inclusion  of foam within the body of the waveguide will reduce the HOMs much more than the primary wave thus  yielding a pronounced net benefit in sound quality (patent pending)

     

     

    I haven't see that applied to the K-510 or K402.

     

    abbey.jpg

  9. 3 hours ago, Chris A said:

    I've recently been reviewing a source on the design of horns (sometimes referred to as "waveguides" but this is actually an attempt at branding of one author, Dr. Earl Geddes).  Here is an excerpt from a discussion on "higher order modes" (HOMs) of horns:

     

    "HOMs will be generated to some extent in any device with non-straight walls. In essence [HOMs} are the diffraction of the throat wave around the curves in the walls."

     

    Some points that I think are important to note that are related to "listener fatigue" and HOMs of horns:

     

    1) Most of these discussions are usually focused on horns that reproduce midrange frequencies.

     

    2) HOMs emerge from the horn's mouth at a frequency that's related to its throat diameter.  For 2" horns with non-straight walls, that occurs at or above 4 kHz, for 1" diameter horns, it's ~8 kHz and higher.  The closer that you cross over to these frequencies with horns that have non-straight walls, the more that you'll notice that "frying bacon" sound (for horns with slots in their throats) or "horn sound" for horns that have smooth interior walls but that have curved side walls.

     

    3) For HOMs created below this "cut-on frequency" (i.e., HOMs emerging from the horn's mouth) these HOMs are called "evanescent modes", and don't directly emerge from the horn's mouth. But the HOMs are reflected back to the horn's compression driver where they interact with the compression driver diaphragm to produce complex interactions which result in the creation of added distortion which is especially audible at higher SPLs.

     

    3)  The K-510 and K-402 horns have flat walls (except near their mouths where they roll out tangent at the horn's mouth using a tractrix curve--which prevents the "waistbanding" of the horn's polar coverage just above the lowest frequencies that the horn can support before losing its polar control).  These straight-sided horns are extremely clean sounding and have no "horn sound" relative to exponential horns such as the K-400, K-500, etc. 

     

    The point here is that there is something qualitatively different about the K-510 and K-402 horns in terms of the cleanness of their sound and freedom from listener fatigue.  That's why I recommend the "JuBelle" configuration from Klipsch if listener fatigue is a factor for the owner.

     

    I think that a lot has been learned in the past 20-25 years (since the early 1990s) about exactly why different horn profiles sound different and perform differently in terms of their hi-fi performance.  I recommend using these type of midrange horn profiles instead of those having curved side walls.

     

    Chris

     Chief Bonehead said recently:

     

    Maybe you should have had discussions with paul about modifying klipsch speakers.....to put it mildly... He thought it was crazy. He thought that ANY mod that did not come from klipsch or was not authorized by klipsch was worthless....."after all, how would they know what they were doing?"  

     

    HB.....Is a JuBelle and authorized mod? Or is it worthless?

     

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