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No Disc

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Posts posted by No Disc

    Refinish vs New Veneer - Klipsch Heritage

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    I don't know much about woodworking but would like to get my feet wet with trying this on some of my Heritage speakers. I think the veneer is fine, I just don't like the color of of some of my speakers.

    What are the pros and cons of doing a new veneer vs. refinishing? How hard is it to learn how to do a new veneer? What tools do I need? Any advise on how to get started?

    I love my Cornwalls but sadly they are the ugliest finish and would love to learn how to refinish them or do a new veneer on them.

    I suppose I could pull out the drivers and take them to a professional, which could be an option.

    Thanks in advance.

    No Disc

    Tweaking the Chorus II - Getting inside, best method?

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    That information is good, and I am glad it's there. I actually ordered the crossovers and diaphragms over the

    phone. Didn't know those instructions were there. The instructions don't tell the user how to remove the tweeters, which it seems

    in my case was part of the problem.

    There just seems to be a several ways in which you can screw these diaphragms up. And for a novice like me,

    It would been appreciated to been given detailed instructions. No worries.

    Tweaking the Chorus II - Getting inside, best method?

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    Installing the diaphragms are relatively easy as long as you know some things before trying to replace the stock ones. Apparently some of the things below are common knowledge because Bob C told me only one other customer managed to do what I did. (mess up several diaphragms. )

    Things to know about installing Titanium diaphragms in Klipsch Tweeters.

    - Diaphragms are very fragile

    - One must be VERY careful not to twist or bend the terminal flat pins or you could sever the connection to the micro thin wire going to the digraph itself

    - If the connection from the crossover does not make a good connection and falls off, gently crimp the spade connector, NEVER try to solder

    - Never attempt to "test" the diaphragm before installing it inside the tweeter, it will ruin it instantly.

    - There is a very specific method to remove tweeters, not knowing this can cause bent pins or abuse to the contacts of the diaphragms.

    After much trial and error, I think the best method to remove the Tweeter assembly in the Chorus II is.

    - Remove the screws holding the tweeter. As you remove the last screw, apply hand pressure so the tweeter does not fall

    - Gently pull the tweeter out and using fingers or a small plier, pull the connections off the tweeter, do not bend or twist side-to-side.

    - Rotate the tweeter assembly 180 degrees so that the diaphragm connections are now facing the opposite sides from when you removed the assembly.

    - Tilt the assembly approximately 45-55 degrees downwards (towards the woofer)

    - At this specific angle you should be able to remove the tweeter assembly gently without having the diagram connections rub against the tweeter opening.

    In hindsight, when I realized there were no instructions for installing the diaphragms included from Bob, I should of called him and had him walk me though the process.

    - No Disc

    Tweaking the Chorus II - Getting inside, best method?

    in Technical/Restorations

    Posted

    Well, what a learning experience I had today. I managed to install Crites Crossovers in my Chorus IIs today.

    installed the titanium diaphragms in but ran into problems.

    I managed to destroy one of the titanium diaphragms, and

    then the two original ones I had pulled out. Just for good measure I pulled my tweeters from my other 2

    Chrous Iis and screwed those up also.

    Three more diaphragms on order. Those suckers are fragile fragile fragile. My confidence is this DIY stuff

    is shot..

    New Klipsch line vs Heritage for HT

    in Home Theater

    Posted

    Since I have not had much experience with the new stuff, I just wanted to get impressions from those that had tried both. I'm not really asking for the sense of upgrading from the Chorus IIs. All your input helps. I'll hold on to my Chorus IIs for now then.

    Thanks so much.

    No Disc

    Shelter 901 in the house

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Grats on the Shelter.

    My setup took a huge leap forward with the new cart I put on. It all starts there. I never thought I would spend more in that area also, but now after hearing the difference I got my eyes on even more high end stuff. Jazzman helped push me in this direction and I'm very glad he did.

    No Disc

    While you clowns were busy making sure to have a SET thread shut down yet another time...

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Congrats Daddy! If it makes you feel any better I'm 41 y.o. The wife and I are expecting in March. However, my older brother wins the late offspring prize. He's 62 and has a boy and girl of 4 and 6.

    No Disc

    ----------------

    On 8/8/2005 12:23:07 PM Painful Reality wrote:

    Thanks to all!

    She hasn't any opinion on SET vs PP yet (along with 99.9999999% of the world population) so for me life's good so far.

    Life has definitively taken a new turn for sure. 39 years old is rather late to play father for the first time

    ----------------

    There is NO 20 watt per channel minimum for Klipsch speakers

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Amusing thread...

    Not sure this was mentioned but it is important to consider. I'm not sure other SET designs allow for this, but the Wright Sound Company 2A3 amps are 3.5 WATTs RMS, and can drive to 8 Watts for dynamic headroom. A quote from George's web site regarding his 2A3 amps. I seen 3.5 watts mentioned several times in this thread, but it is simply not the proper specification for the Wright based amps. What about Moondogs? Anyone know?

    No Disc

    --------------- snip -----------------

    WPA3.5 Power Amp

    The WPA3.5 Mono Block 2A3 single-ended power amplifier was the first in our line of power amplifiers. Rated at 3.5 watts RMS and 8 watts of music power, this amp has incredible dynamic headroom, unlike most 2A3 amps. One of the reasons for the dynamic headroom is that the 2A3 is driven by a medium mu stage directly coupled to a low Z, high output, constant-current cathode follower driver stage. This allows the 2A3 to be driven into class A-2 without appreciably increasing the distortion. Although specifically designed for high efficiency speakers (100+dB), its more than capable of driving medium efficiency (84+dB) systems. Driven by a 2A3 power output tube along with a Magnaquest power transformer, the WPA3.5 Mono is very linear, with low hum and zero feedback. Features Pi-filtered power supply and point-to-point, hand wiring. With this amp, you can close your eyes and feel as if the performer is right next to you. (220-240 volt model $1,575) Priced per pair.

    My analog A to Z

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    Edmond,

    Try taking that motor cover off, it's known to feed resonance back into the plinth. Should sound better with it off. I think VPI got rid of it on the Aries 2. Several users on AA posted comments confirming the motor cover has negative sonic effects.

    Tim

    Post your acoustical room treatments

    in 2-Channel Home Audio

    Posted

    I use 8th nerve products and like the results very much. Lots of satisfied customers and they run their own forums for support and questions. I believe they offer a 30 day performance MBG if you don't like the sonic results. From my understanding, not many have returned the product.

    http://www.eighthnerve.com/response.html

    Room tunes is another virtually the same product. I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

    No Disc

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