HIFI4EVER
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Posts posted by HIFI4EVER
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What kind or grade of plywood is usually used?
What is the stock black color?
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I think the photos I was seeing are of kits r people that modified their khorns. I am aware of the factory sealed backs.
I am looking at having a new tail board, bottoms and backs made.
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I'm thinking the photos I seen are of sealed backs, meaning... '60's/'70's.
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Hello,
I am looking at putting some backs on my speakers.
Why do some K horns have side grills that go all the way to the floor and some like mine have notches in them at the bottom?
For the backs what is the stock paint used?
Do people use nutserts or just screws?
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Thank you. I always thought it would not matter either until this last year coming here and another frum people said they can go out of phase having 2 different ohms plus that the crossing will change with 8ohm crossover going to a 4 ohm driver.
I should mention these amps don't care what ohms they run, these are old school concert amps I use a monos.
So the way I am looking at this is I will use UN bridge them and use channel 1 to power the main speakers, and channel 2 to power the sub on both L and R.
I a, also wondering if I can just put a resistor or something in line to the subs rather than a crossover unit? The crossoers are not that expensive, but if Icould get a way with putting a certin resistor in line to filter over 80hz that would be easier.
The next thing is with the speakers being 8 ohm and at least 99+db and the subs I would assume are somewhere are ound 85db maybe that ohm difference would bring them closer together.
Does that makes sense?
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Hello,
I have an unconventional question.
I am looking at sing a car sub in a sealed box in my home and my specs are the following:
Amps:8 ohm
Sub: dvc 4 ohm each VC
Crossover point: 80hz
Crossover: should be what? 8 ohm or 4 ohm?
I think if I use the 80hz 8ohm it will make it 160hz correct?
If I go 4 ohm crossover 80hz it makes sense, but I am feeding it 8ohms from the amps, so now I am confused.
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On 5/19/2017 at 5:41 PM, longdrive03 said:
We need to know what woofers you have and TS specs.
1505 ka-8dt
https://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/80300801.pdf
If anyone here knows how to design a triangle box for this 15, and maybe an 18" with a 19" horn in vertically please help.
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I thought a 15" should really in general have 8 cu ft, I have seen some in 13 cu ft which is 18" territory. This premade is 2.75 cu ft. Correct me if I'm wrong.
The cornwall is 7+ cu ft correct? or am I thinking volume?
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Thanks. I have seen those, but I'm not sure they are large enough for good bass.
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I have some 15" woofers and large horns so I'm looking for some old cabinets to play with. I'm open to Onken, or custom cabs too. Let me know what you have to fit my 15s.
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I still am stuck here, so what parts on this board do I replace to raise the crossover point from 800hz to 2,000hz?
If it is the 2 capacitors what values would the new ones be?
I have also included the stock spec sheet from peavey showing the values for the SP3 model on the chart below the photo.
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I guess it's the cross over that is set for a 4 ohm woofer.
yes I need a cross over with 8ohms, 2way, 2,000hz, and attenuater built in.
I see what you mean though, maybe I should try 800 first, it just sounds way too low right now, unless I run the woofer full range.
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I've decided to try 2000k cross over at the 12db 8ohms.
Can someone please post up the proper capacitors for me so I can order them? I need a set for both speakers and all 4 need to be 8 ohms and 12db.
Thank you,
This is what I found...
1st Order Butterworth
2000 Hertz
8 Ohm Tweeter / 8 Ohm WooferParts List
Capacitors
C1 = 9.94 uF
Inductors
L1 = 0.64 mH -
Can someone now please break down the parts int eh photo of my crossover above? I think the stone piece is a resistor but what is the transformer piece?
Do those go bad? I'm wondering if I can just solder some different value caps in the boards?
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Awesome info. I am playing with them now and some youtube sound tests with no horns just woofers. they are plenty capable of highs, but at like 9k sometimes i heard them struggle a little and then settled down again after that and after 14k nothing to be heard.. I think since these are horns I might actually try some really high cross over point for the woofer to do the lows and mids. and the 22xt horn to do the high mids and highs.
I get the not mixing ranges in drivers now too. I know it's probably wrong and out side the box but I really want to try moving the crossover way up on these now. Really a neat sound to me.
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So maybe it's the cross over making the woofer 8ohms?
Can someone please tell me if a store bought cross over will work in place of these parts? I'd really like to just put something in and listen to them at this point. If you can post some pre made that would help.
This is for home stereo listening. Stock was 800hz 12db I'f like to raise it to 1200hz
I was thinking about these kinds on ebay that are prebuilt, but if if I should just get different caps on mine let me know. Also I don't know which ones to put in to change the frequency.
I also want to eliminate the 1/4" jacks and do posts.
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current parts on board
CAPACITOR 25UF, 100V
CAPACITOR 4mfd 10% 200 vdc
Resistor, power. Resistance: 500 Ohm. Power: 10 watt. Tolerance: 10%. ( I think that is what it says for sure 10%)
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6 hours ago, pzannucci said:
HIFI4EVER,
You have way too many unknowns to answer your questions somewhat accurately.
You said the woofers aren't made for the box. Based on what you say the woofers are you can not expect significant bass as they appear to be more of a musical instrument woofer. Only .9mm xmax and Fo of 50hz and response out to 2k (likely dropping like a rock at 1K -10db at 2k)
Said the woofers in the box double in impedance. How did you measure them?
Since everything is an unknown, you would need to start from scratch and measure the woofer and horn's output and impedance in the box of the woofer and impedance of the horn and start all over. Likely not the way to go but perhaps if you are not looking for deep bass and tried to move the crossover up to 1.2k-1.5k, you might be happy. The original driver would work much better in that box though.
If you like the mids, keep your woofer for a midwoofer - put it in a smaller box, add a good woofer like Crites 1526 in that box (braced and ported appropriately), get your horn balanced and call it a day. The crossover parts will not be cheap though.
Right, I'm not so concerned with earth shaking bass with these. I want more of the lows and mids / highs out of this woofer mixed with highs of the horn. Most people don't like the sound of these for home speakers, but I kind of like it and am trying to make the best out of them to suit my wants.
So if the woofer is 8 ohm and the horn is 8 ohm that is fine, but what if the woofer is now 16 ohms?
The stock one is 4ohm but cab makes it 8 I assume the crossover is set for that. I should maybe change that as well as I'd like to up the cross over range on both drivers that are now crossed at 800hz.
The reason this started is that I have replaced both horn diaphragms and now one is sounding a little dull compared to how bright the other is on the highs, mids are a little muddy too on the dull one.
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this is old pa stuff.
Peavey forums told me the box doubles the ohms somehow. Stock woofer was 4ohm scorpian, new woofer is 8ohm black widow.
If some one can set me up with what crossover to use that would be great since the woofer is like 16 ohms now and the horn is 8 ohms and I'd like the woofer to produce a little higher than the 800hz it cuts off at. It's far more capable than that, and I don't want it to be so much a sub anymore either I like the higher frequencies it produces with out the cross over in place, but I still want to use the horns at around 1k -1.5k.
On the other hand since the horn is rated much lower power than the woofer can I make that 16 oms too and then they match, and also set the cross over a little higher. Plus do I need an L pad for this?
thanks for the help ion this...
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I guess what I'm saying is can I raise the horn to 1k and the woofer to 1.5+k ?
The horns are here
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The enclosure some how doubles the ohms of the driver. The stock woofer was 4 ohms and the horn loaded box made it 8. this driver is 8 so now 16.
yes the 15" drivers were driven right from each of the 600RMS watt amps that power each and they sang just fine as full range drivers and cranked.
The bass is terrible for new kinds of music. The bass is awesome for live stuff or classic rock which is what these mostly play.
I figure if the 15s handled full range mode fine they should be fine with a higher cap on them? This gives a huge sound when they can ply full range.
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I hope someone can help me here...
I used to have some speaker lab k horns. They rocked but I sold them and got some vintage peavey sp3 speakers to learn on and play with.
Horns ended up being blown. I replaced the diaphragms.
The woofer is not made for the box but works for me and very close in specs to me.
The right channel is now a little dull on the high end of things for treble, say snares etc. I think the crossovers are about almost 40 years old. I'd like to replace both sides right away.
Here is where it gets strange... I hooked the woofers up directly to the amps until I got the horn parts and I loved the sound. I got the horns back together and they sounded decent until I heard the issue or blew the cap on the right side horn.
I would really like to get more from the woofer. It's not great for a sub in the box, but I like the sounds it can produce. I'd like the crossover to be higher than the 800 so the woofer plays more mids/ highs since it reaches 2k?. Maybe raise or keep the horns where they are.
Is this possible?
There are 2 caps, a transformer thing, and a coil on the crossover board.
box specs below.
https://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/80300649.pdf
woofer specs below
https://peavey.com/products/index.cfm/item/717/116641
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Thank you. Of course the horns are not making any noise and even connecting direct bare wires to them I get nothing out of them so I assume they are dead.
Is it possible to use these parts to fix them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231834520708
Next question is how to use input barrier strips...
I currently have 12 gauge speaker wire with rca plugs soldered to 1/4" jacks that go to the inputs on my QSC amps, can I run them to the barrier strip instead for less noise issues or do I need them grounded?
Next question is on Lpads. The speakers were scorpian 15's now they are black widow and more powerful. The horns OTOH are stock and probably why blown. If I use an Lpad of 100 watts to go to the horn what ohms should I use? Does it have to match the horn or can it be used to regulate power more?
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Hello, this should be easy but for some reason I am doubting my self.
I'm trying to hook up these old Peavey sp3 speakers with 1/4" jacks t my home stereo. I'm not sure how to do it.
PLEASE HELP!!
2 way crossover question
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Hello,
I have some old speakers that I had bought some crossovers for and some new diaphragms for the horns. I recently made a mistake and dropped a cable with an amp on and I think either fried a crossover or the tweeter, but it seems the tweeter still is playing but sounds dull and a little muddy compared to the other side.
How do I test a capacitor with a multi meter?
Which one would be the one I would look at for my horn?
Can someone please break down what each one of the components are here so I can learn about this thing? I really want to get these going again.
I bought these on Ebay 2017 and now the design has changed. This was supposedly a JBL or copy and is a 1200khz / 2 way crossover. The fuse removed only slightly lowers the highs it wills till work without it in . These are in a 2 old Peavy SP3 speaker.
Thank you and any help or ideas are appreciated. I paid $100 for these and I can not buy another set right now, so I would like to try and replace the capacitor if possible.
I just soldered the diaphragm back on and the sould level is the same as the good speaker, but the bass and highs have lost clarity. Is this as simple as replacing both capacitors?