dsommerl

Punch Are you still in the market for these? I have a pair of black--in 98% condition I might part with. Let me know.

For the foreseeable future---the best value in big screens 16X9 should remain RPTV technology if you can handle the size of the set. Maybe you can find a used Mits in your range----don't think you'll find it new at that price. I've had super results with the Mits Diamond series 65" wide screen---never seen anything any better. The only thing that beats it might be a front projection system--but then your talking $20K

Here is one last pic-----all that's left from this one is to press in the metal mesh grills---they are now paint drying and will be on at the end of today As you can see---this was my only mounting alternative due to all of the glass---the only other place would have been in the far corners and too far from the listening sofa--and also too close to the "side" surround Heresey II's. Again, the rear effects spkrs are the least critical in a 7.1 set up---having now recalibrated them to my system vs the Academies---I can't tell any difference on the few movies utilizing the 7.1 software. Over and out--Dave

Here is another pic--the last one didn't really show the metal pole support post which caused this craziness---The RCW 5's have an installed total depth of 3.75"--therefore, the 1X4 pieces coming out from the wall are actual 3.5" dimension--plus the 3/4" drywall thickness--still leaves each speak's woof magnet about 1/2" off of each metal pole. It's a real clean looking set up now--and a real home decor plus (don't have to look at those Academy big brown boxes sitting on shelves halfway up the wall anymore) Tks again, Dave

Doc Who--and all Okay--finally finished. You asked for a pic--here is one that is most illustrative of the structure---can post other pics if you'd like. The process was--I cut out the drywall for each speaker using the supplied plastic frame as a template. Using clear pine--I bought 1X 2's for the flat framing pieces and 1X4's for the pieces coming out from the wall--I affixed these at 90 degree angles to the "frame"--flat pieces on the wall (the 1X2's). Using a compound power mitre saw--I mitred all corners and using the plastic mounting frame as a template cut the 1X4's into 4 pcs---trying to get them to fit as tightly as possible to the frame. I made a square jig on my workbench to form a 90 degree angle--so I could make sure I was getting square on each corner. Then I did the same with the 1X2's--fitting those four pieces up to the 1X4's--kind of like a picture frame (laying flat on the bench--and eventually the wall). Then all were glued and screwed together with all the exposed screws counter sunk. Removed the plastic frame--let it dry (liquid nails) and then mounted each on the wall by wood screws for one side and lag bolts on the other side(where I couldn't hit studs). The plastic frame was then inserted into each "box" and secured with small wood screws from the outside---countersunk. Then spent some time filling all countersinks with plastic wood type material--and patched the drywall where needed--- then sanded down the plastic wood flush--primed the bare wood and drywall patch--then two finish coats of latex matching wall paint. Then simply installed each speaker into the plastic frame with the supplied screws---into the existing mounting holes on each frame. Then sprayed the metal grills with Rust Oluem--a brown color---and it was a done deal. This site limits the amount of KB you can upload--so, if you want to see more pics--I have them--could only fit one into the maximum allowed So, thanks to all for the great advice and guidance----the end result was a very finished looking and well functioning pair of RCW-5's in slim cabinets---which only protrude from the wall by 3.5". They now blend into the decor vs the big brown boxes (Academies on shelves) I was using for the rear effects speakers. Dave

Doc Who Good idea---I am almost finished---but will take some pics of the wood "shells" now mounted on the wall ready for final painting---then a finished product pic--so far it's working per plan. Should have everything back together in a couple more days and will reply again then.

Dr Who The metal poles are hollow---they support a steel header over the double doors (a pole on each side where the speakers need to mount). It's a structural thing when the house was built---then there is a steel I beam which spans the room to support the second floor. Wanting to make sure that the magnetism thing would effect the life of the speaker or it's performance. According Henry W also a poster on this board---there is no problem as long as the magnets are not actually in contact with the metal pole---are kept off of them by a 1/2" or so---which they will end up being. So, I am proceeding on plan---let me know if I am wrong or if you have any other thoughts Tks for checking in on my post

Also, in one in wall location there are several electrical wires (Romex) These wires generally supply/feed a set of light switches----do I need to be concerned about this as well? (need to somehow shield these from the speaker?) Again, because of the metal post, the RCW-5's will be surface mounted over the hole I've cut out--the electronics will not be in contact with either the pole or the electric wiring---the back of the speaker's electronnics/magnet will be about flush with the room drywall when I'm finished. Any advice will be appreciated Tks Dave

I am surface mounting a pair of inwall-s (RCW 5-s) for rear effects speakers in my 7.1 array. These can't be mounted in the wall cavity as there are metal support poles in both needed locations. I have done the cut outs in the dry wall to open up the air space and will build a low profile wood structure out on the suface of the drywall to mount the speaker frames on for these RCW-5's. I was holding one speaker up to the hole I had created and see that the magnet will be about 3/4" from each metal pole. If I put the speaker on the pole--the magnetic attraction is so great that it can almost stick on it alone. Is this going to be a problem for the speaker's peformance or long term functioning? Do I need to somehow shield the magnet or the pole from each other? (if so, what material and technique should I use). Thanks for any advice Dave

Okay I'm back---am finally getting around to this installation---purchased a pair of RCW-5's and now ready to go. I have just cut out the drywall where I want these mounted----sure enough--the metal post is right in the middle----as expected. I held up a spkr and the magnet on the woofer literally stuck to the post----almost was able to walk away from it---- Is this going to be a problem in speaker performance, longevity etc----should I worry about some how shielding the spkr magnet from this post? (if so, any suggestions on what material--how to do that?) Any advise, really appreciated---am looking at a hole in my wall Tks Dave

Yo Henry I know you were kidding---however, being a devout Capitalist--I imagine that I'll be putting them up on E Bay at some point--as yesterday, I went ahead and bagged a pair of RCW-5's on EBay--so, there's no turning back now. Of course, I'll sure give all the Klipschters their fair shot at them if/when I elect to move the Academies Have been away from this board for awhile--great to be back with my new Klipsch project/challenge---and to have gotten all the great advice and direction. Thanks alot for your help!

Tks Henry So, you'd leave any insulation in the wall cavity? As for the resultant "residual" Academy's---not sure yet what I'll do with them---may just move them into my office--it took alot of E Bay effort to land the two--plus I'd probably have to refinish one of them back to satin black. They both work perfectly and the cabinets are in A shape structurally. Don't worry--if/when I put them on the market--you will be among the first to know---they are the ideal match to Heresys---if one can't use a Heresy center---in fact--the difference is actually negligible---how's that for my opening E Bay sales pitch? :^)

Dr Who Wow! That is extremely informative--thanks so much for the effort--especially for the line draw pics The end result needs to be as in pic 1. Again, the need is created because of two steel support posts in each of the desired rear speaker wall locations (can't recess the speaker into the cavity) It wouldn't be any problem to cut out the drywall however to "open up the cavity" and then surface mount my cabinet structure over that opening. I suppose I should create a drywall opening of roughtly the same size as the speaker itself and will thus need to make the surfact mount boxes/cabinets slightly larger--in order to be able to mount them on the remaining drywall. Again, there are steel posts inside the wall cavity I will expose---it will not just be a free air cavity as a normal studded wall. Do you think that the steel posts will pose any problem for the woofer? AND should I remove any fiberglass insulation in that cavity? Thanks Dave

Also, why would my enclosed box/cabinet concept be any different than the in wall install between the studs? By free air---do you mean the area in the wall above and below the speaker--between the studs? (thus I guess the instructions call for removing the insulation above and below the speaker with in the wall cavity) Any thoughts? Thanks Dave

Hi Henry By the way, how did you Heresy Center reconfig project ever work out? Thanks for the thoughtful reply---you've given alot to research. I just assumed (oh, oh) that if I built a box with the approximate depth of the wall cavity then I'd be okay. I went over to Ultimate E to check out their RCW 5's hoping to get to check the owners manual--but they somehow didn't have one. Do you know that when doing an in wall install---do you remove the insulation? (I'd assume you do). Also, I wonder if the Reference in walls are over kill and maybe I should save some $ and get the Synergy's---after all, these are rear channel speakers---thus the least important as far as I know--what do you think? Again, I'm just trying to get to the least obtrusive wall hanging speaks I can come up with. By going the in wall route (though I can't put them in wall where I need to place them) and coming up with the right "box" for them--I can paint them to match the wall and have a thin box (versus a bookshelp type speak). Any other thoughts / input is appreciated. TKs Dave

Dr. First, my plan would be to build these cabinets out of a paint grade wood and to install a masonite type material back so that the empty cabinet shell could be mounted to the wall--hopefully into studs and then the inwall speaks could be installed into the "empty" wood box cavaties. Then the entire "cabinet" could be painted to match the wall. As the RCW 5's are only 6 lbs each--and the cabinet shell will be about 1 or 2 lbs--I'd think it could mount fairly easily without the need for a support shelf. The end result would be the flattest possible suface mount speaker possible yet still Klipsch sound--to best timbre match my all Klipsch array (all Heresy II"s---F/L mains, center and side L/R surrounds) Am considering the RCW 5's reference model as they appear on EBay often----but, maybe the Synergy versions would be a better match for my Heresy's----any thoughts on this? Am I making any sense, so far?

I am tweaking my 7.1 Klipsch speaker array for cosmetic purposes. Am thinking about buying a pair of Klipsch in walls either Reference or Synergy---probably the RCW-5 model and constructing cabinets for them versus installing in wall (the wall location needed has iron supports in the wall---can't do an in wall install where these need to go) Has anyone ever done this? Is there any downside to doing this (construction tips to assure maximum quality sound etc)" My goal is to end up with an installation which is much less obtrusive than the two Academy's I currently have mounted on support shelves on the back wall of this room. I figure that by building some cabinets for these in walls and painting them and their grills to match the walls--I'd have the flattest and least obtrusive installation possible. OR are their "flat" speakers available (other brands) that will serve my purpose. Any help, advice or thoughts will be appreciated Tks Dave

Thanks fini Maybe I should re phrase my Q---only your reply ! My understanding of the rear effects speaks in a 7.1 are that they're the least critical in terms of timbre etc matching. They basically just provide some rearward sensations and of course, there's not much software out there yet which employs them (most DVD's are 5.1) But, still, I'd like to just do this once--get the right rear surrounds and be prepared for the future. So, again, am wondering if I should go with the Synergy or the Reference in walls---to best match my Heresy II mains/ctr and side surrounds (5 in all)? Anyone else?

Hi all It's been awhile since I've posted. How is is the Horn man doing? Okay, I'm tweaking my Klipsch 7.1 array. Now I've got 5--Heresy II's as mains, center and surrounds---SVS dual subs and a pair of Academy's for the rear effects spkrs. In a bow to cosmetics and room decor and due to the fact that the rear surrounds are the least critical (and there's so little software for them anyway)---I am thinking about going to either the Reference or Synergy In Walls for my two rear surrounds (this would lead to my Academy's going on the market--by the way. Given the choice, should I go with the Synergy or Reference (does it really make a difference?) to best match mhy Heresys ? AND in what size (biggest available?)

Thanks Chip Any ideas /s on where one can buy these JBL "Control" series speakers???? Thanks

Thanks, but the SA series is rated as "weather resistant"--implying they need some protection----can anyone shed some light on this spec? Tks Dave

My system has extended to the deck. I have wired and ready to go--now need a pair of speaks The location of which will be very exposed to the elements (no soffit or awning etc protection--at all) My research reveals that most if not all outdoor models (incl Klipsch) are "weather resistant" and recommend some soffit or otherwise sheltering. HOwever, in the Parts Express catalog I see some "Marine" speaker offerings----"weather proof" spec. Would like any input on this subject---should I get the "weatherproof" specs and if so, whose do you recommend---mfg and model # etc? Tks all Dave

J Hawk Sorry for the bad post just now Meant to advise to put SVS sub's on your list----great value--- IMO Dave

Hi Jay Hawk

Scooter--Doug Thanks! Also have the spkr wire run to the outside and into a junction type box then to another one ;with bnana plug connector plates in same. It's a weather proof box with a door that flips up to expose the jacks--planning to uses banana's to run each speaker to the box---but to plug in to the plate---the "door" would need to stay "flipped up"----and moisture would surely get in---it seems----is there a better set up or box to use??? Tks Dave