Harleywood
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Posts posted by Harleywood
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Would like to check the drivers on my CF-2s. Drivers are k-1029 8". Anyone know what ohms they should measure?
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Just added a Darlington Labs MP-7 to my system. Best upgrade ever. I just had to share.
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On 5/12/2022 at 9:50 AM, JimmyG said:
The green power LED light on the front of the speaker stays on 24/7 I have the switch on back of sub set to Auto On and receiver off. I returned the first one thinking it was defective but the new one I just received does the same thing. I even unplugged the cable from the sub to the receiver but the light still stays on. I get the impression when reading the Power LED Indicator section in the booklet, this light is suppose to turn off after 15 minutes with no signal. Cable is connected to LFE output on the sub and L/LFE input on back of receiver. Anyone experience this?
Mine behaves the same. A non issue for me though since access is not restricted and I'd much rather power off manually anyway.
I wouldn't leave it on though. I think there was a discussion here about burnt caps or boards and the like from them being left powered on all the time. Hopefully someone who knows more will chime in.
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58 minutes ago, MicroMara said:
well ...if it´s 11 hz or 8 hz ..can be measured but can´t be audible for human ears .....don´t take it too seriouse ...😉.
Right. It's probably close enough. Chasing shadows at this point. At least I've done the legwork and I always get good advice here so when it's time to upgrade I'll be in a much better place. Thanks for your help!
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So I found the cartridge resonance evaluator on vinyl engine. https://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge_resonance_evaluator.php?eff_mass=12&submit=Submit
I also read that Japanese brands like Audio Technica rate their dynamic compliance at 100hz not 10 like most calculations are determined. So when I refer to the chart from the link above and enter 14g for my arm mass using the compliance of 10 for my 8g cart I am barely in the green at 11hz. But if I take into consideration the rating at 100hz and multiply by ten I get a dynamic compliance of 20 for the cart and that puts me at the very bottom at 8hz. Am I trying to improve the rabbit hole or just digging in circles? 🤔
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Just now, billybob said:
And yes man...let us know the difference please.
Thanks!
Will do!
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20 hours ago, MicroMara said:
Coming back to your basic question.....the compilance of your cart will fit to the tonarm mass , no problems ....of course it´s an option to optimize the performance with a more heavy headshell to upgrate the tonarm mass.
Thanks for the detailed info and link in your previous reply! I'm working with the other variables mentioned in those as well. Just needed some confirmation that I'm moving in the right direction and that I understand cart compliance and tonearm mass and their relation to each other. I actually have the cart mounted to a headshell that brings the mass of my arm to 14g right now. The ATHS1 headshell I'm using for that cart also accepts a screw in weight so I've picked up a 2g weight which brings the total mass of the arm to 16g. Much easier than changing headshells. Will be working with that this week and will take note of any changes. Thanks again!
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From what I've read a low compliance cart has a value less than 11 X 10-6 cm/dyne. My cart has a value of 10. The arm on the sl1200gr is 12g with the headshell attached making it a medium mass arm. From what I gather I need to add three grams to my arm to get the mass up to 15 grams for my cart and arm to be a better match. Can this be accomished by getting a heavier headshell and am I on the right track and would the gains in audio quality be worth the effort? Still in a learning curve. Thanks!
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Update,
Ordered a 4x lighted magnifier on a stand and I had missed the overhang using the jig by a longshot on the initial setup. Corrected that with a big improvement in sound but still seemed it was lacking full soundstage. Played with VTF first and settled on 1.92g for now, 2.0g recommended. A little better. The big improvement came with VTA. The vm750 cart is 17.3mm tall with a tracking angle of 23⁰ not the usual 22⁰. The chart in manual says set VTA dail to "0" since that is the minimum cart height without modifications. Arm was still not level and still to high in back. Bass was very broad and open not tight and punchy like it should be so I added a 3mm thick leather mat on top of the stock rubber and wow, there's an orchestra under all that and all the instruments fell into their proper place with correct VTA. That's the warmth and soundstage the Shibata is known for.
I had to work at the setup compared to my previous tables but the effort is definitely worth the reward. I have to say the Technics jig is pretty good. It sounds good. Can it be better? I'm about to start that endeavor and so begins the perpetual tweak, In Search of the Lost Chord.
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Virgin run with headshell tool yielded so so results with the new shibata stylus. No skips or tracking errors accross four LPs played just some groove distortion and pretty sure that can be fixed with a better cart alignment. My eyes aren't the greatest so going to pick up a lighted magnifying glass to help me see better. Thinking of buying a protractor as well. Any recommendations for one? Looking at the DB Systems protractor. I like that one only because it's not paper and I don't have to punch a hole in the spindle location which in my opinion leaves room for many errors.
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New $29 AT headshell with the new VM750sh cart, dead quiet. Technics headshell that came with table with old Ortofon cart, dead quiet. I guess the VM cart did not like the Technics headshell. It will remain a mystery.
Big shout out to all of you! Always get good advice here. Appreciate all of you. Will post video of table up and running when I have time. Thanks again!!
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Update. TT was dead quiet in the local shops system. Kevin and Sound Exchange in Houston are the best. He loaned me a headshell and cart to bring home and try and that solved the buzz in my system. So it's either cart or headshell that my system doesn't like. Im guessing cart. So relieved it's nothing major with the table. Heading back up to the shop to purchase new headshell. Boy, what an introduction into Technics and in general good turntables.
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15 hours ago, captainbeefheart said:
When you pop the headshell off you can check it with multimeter.
Measure resistance between white and blue (left channel) then green and red (right channel). You should get a DCR of around 800 ohms. This will rule out the headshell wiring and cartridge coils and point the problem in the direction of the wiring through tone arm and down to the left output RCA connector. Which you can also check by measuring the same connections from the end of the tone arm where the headshell connects to and the RCA out jacks. The sleeve is - and tip is + for the jacks. This last test you don't measure between the two colors, you need to check each wire individually for continuity. Example, white wire at headshell connector to tip of left RCA jack and blue to the sleeve of the left RCA jack. Repeat for the other channel.
Good information to have. Thank you!
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I'd like to thank everyone for offering up ideas. Good stuff here. This whole thing has me flustered and I don't think I mentioned what got me to where I'm at so....
The sl1200gr is brand new from Best Buy. Don't ask I got lucky one day and the add to cart option was there so I did and four days later it was at the door.
As of right now the TT is plugged into its own wall outlet using the three prong plug with the small ground wire running from TT ground lug to the amps built in phono stage ground lug. The Amp has a two prong plug as does the sub so both of those are plugged into a power strip from a different wall outlet located 8 feet away. Same circuit breaker I'm sure. This gives me least amount of buzz and only in right channel. Ground lift the TT power cord with a cheater and that yields the same result. I've plugged the A/C cords in every imaginable way and this setup is the quietest and any other combination results in very loud buzz at low volume especially when the amp and TT share an a/c outlet or strip. I've tried three pairs of RCA cables as well and moved my amp down in the rack so there's an empty shelf between amp and TT. I'm at a loss.
Going to get an extra headshell tomorrow so I can mount the old cart and try that. The way I'm feeling though I might just lug the whole table up to his shop so we can verify it either is or isn't the table using his system. I'll keep y"all posted. Thanks again guys.
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5 hours ago, babadono said:
It is certainly sounding like there is something wrong with the new TT like others have posted. Or the cartridge as you have stated. Anyway to try the cartridge from the old TT on this new one? Are they both MM or MC?
Have not swapped carts yet. Going to local shop tomorrow to pick up a new headshell so I can swap between the two without having to align cart again each time.
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13 minutes ago, bpplaysguitar said:
I could also go for the 120w RA-1572 mk2. Probably comes down to what I can find on the used market because these things are expensive new! My 100w RX-1052 sounds great, but I'd like some updated features as well as the additional wattage.
The 1570 retailed for $1699 new and I think the 1592 is upwards of $2200 new maybe more now since mine is almost 5 years old. Audiogon website is where I bought mine. Might give them a look.
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20 hours ago, babadono said:
The TT has a 3 prong power cord and a separate ground wire?
Yes
Did all that.
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I have the buzz almost gone. When I first powered up with the new 1200gr with a brand new AT VM 750sh cartridge the buzz was loud in both channels with the volume at 20. Turn it up to listening level and it overpowered the music. Now the buzz is only in the right channel (left channel dead quiet) and only noticeable in dead wax at volumes over 45 which 42 to 55 is my normal listening level. I've tried with the ground wire and without. With out ground wire buzz is gone but replaced by 60hz hum at volumes of 60 or higher. I've tried cheater plug on TT power cord with the ground wire attached and still get the right channel only buzz. I'm not settling for a 60hz hum without ground wire attached and I'm not settling for this right channel only buzz. Still searching for answers.... ugh.
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I have the RA 1570 powering CF2s. It's 120wpc and plenty of power to drive the 98db CF2s. I think the CF4s are even more efficient at 102db so that 1592 should blow the doors off the neighbors house down the street.
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6 hours ago, ODS123 said:
Ugh... Hum issues are the worst. Sorry to hear.
I had hum issues and resolved them by plugging my TT, phono pre-amp, and Integrated amp into the same 4-outlet receptacle. Voila. Gone. It's certainly worth giving that a try.
As an aside, although my Integrated has a phono-pre, I use an outboard phono pre-amp because my TT is too far away for 6' interconnects to reach the Int. amp. By placing the phono pre-amp b/w the TT and Int. Amp, I have about 12' feet of total cable distance.
Once you get it resolved, you'll love the 1210GR. I have a GAE and it's a joy.
Yes I have a power strip and the TT, amp, sub and cd are all plugged into it. I'm going to invest in a better power strip though. I think the current one is a 9.99 wally world special. Also going to move my power amp down to bottom shelf in the rack giving more space between the two. I've already had to move my sub due to feedback issues at volume. Never affected my last tt. Funny that when you get new better components they always seem to amplify the shortcomings of other pieces in the chain.
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On 3/12/2022 at 7:09 AM, chassell said:
If you have a separate grounding cable (TT chassis to amp or pre-amp) plus a plug prong ground - it's a ground loop. I suspect some sort of liability laws require them to supply 3-prong power cords, but this sets up a grounding loop by default when using a separate ground. Use either the third ground prong or the external grounding wire - not both at the same time. Your TT is grounded in either case.
Thanks for the input! I never was much of an electrician but isn't the small ground wire a signal ground where the three prong plug is a power supply safety ground? Two different paths?
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Ho hum. Swapped cables and ground no luck. Moved power cords around no luck. Plugged tt into a cheater two prong plug and hum moved to right channel only. Running now without cheater plug and hum still only in right channel and only noticeable when volume is past 45. Before all this the hum was much louder and in both channels. I've also removed the headshell and reinstalled a few times and sometimes the hum got quieter and sometimes louder. Scratching my head. Headshell/cart issues? Oh, I've also put the old table back in line and dead quiet with that table. Any input greatly appreciated!
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3 hours ago, Schu said:
1200gr is wonderful...
Is the hum gone without those audioquest cables?
Thanks for the reply. I haven't checked the cables yet. I read the manual and am having a hard time believing that I have to use the provided interconnects and ground. I did however remove the headshell and cart and when I powered up without them installed on the arm the hum was gone and it's dead quiet everywhere. I figure if it was an interconnect issue it would still hum without headshell installed. What's your thought on that? Headshell wires look good. No contacts or bare wire touching headshell but the leads do rest against it. Any suggestions on what/how to troubleshoot this? Thanks!
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Need some pointers please. Just set up the new 1200gr and AT VM740sh cart. Used my Audioquest RCAs and ground from previous table and separated power and signal cables as before. Powered up amp only and hum in mains. Powering up sub yielded same result. Hum is in all inputs but louder in phono input. It's late so I just unplugged the TT and thought I'd ask for some tips here on where to start tomorrow before hitting the sack tonight. Thanks guys!
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