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AHall

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Posts posted by AHall

  1. I’d love to hear them next to each other and I’m sure many others would as well. I think I’d rather have the 20hz performance than I would the little extra output. I don’t think it necessary to go above the 140db mark much in the home setting. With minimal time I was able to get flat to 22hz and -3db at 20hz. Around -10db at 18hz. 

     

    Im not sure how those numbers translate compared to other more premium performing subs, but for movies it is absolutely violent sounding and a bit nauseating sometimes. 

     

    Music of course is a bit overwhelming. Even with jubes. 

  2. 51 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

    they are both horns of a slightly different design and purpose, but they are similar enough to work together well. The 1802 is more powerful, but a THTLP would be a great, lower cost, addition to a room to smooth out the room modes. One in front and one in the rear wall centers of the room would do it. Been there, done that. It works very well.

     

    This is great to hear. Just what I planned on. Although part of me has a craving to utilize that space at an attemp to get flat to 10hz. I know this system isn’t designed for that though. 

  3. 4 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

    Actually, the tapped horn is LESS EFFICIENT than the full horn AND can have higher distortion unless you bandpass filter it, which is easy to do. All horn subs totally STOMP direct radiator subs, unless you have a roomful of those with kilowatts of amplifier power and the highest distortion of all. Not my cup of tea. Horns forever!! BTW, I just sold a pair of THTLP subs  (6 ft. tall with an 18x24 footprint, like a double high Cornwall) to another forum member because I needed to go to a very slim cabinet in a way smaller room. Going from 18 foot wide walls down to 11 is not fun for a speaker dude!!

     

     

    Ever wonder how a tuba ht low profile would blend with an 1802? I bought the plans before I got the 1802. I think it may be advantageous to help smooth out the response with a second sub. I’m new to the high end and horn stuff though. 

  4. 36 minutes ago, Coytee said:

    So....  messing around, I just now found this.

     

    Is this what we're talking about? (highlight added by me)

     

    "Mic settings An optional microphone preamp can be added to the XP series. The user can select line input or mic input from this menu. (Only available for XP-2040M, 3060M, 4080M, 8080M models only. Applies to phantom power as well.) IN 1-8 The user can choose between Line input or mic input. For mic input, the input will receive a 30dB gain. Each input channel can be selected individually."

     

     

    https://xilica.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/XIL002_UserManuaI_XP.pdf

     

    Its in the software. Just to the left of where you set the PEQ’s there is an input menu. It shows gain tables there. 

  5. 1 hour ago, Coytee said:

     

    Can you explain this a little bit?

     

    I'm presuming you mean that you're driving the inputs of your Xilica with a higher voltage (by using more gain from your preamp).  If not, I'd like to know more.

     

    I'd like my system to drive my inputs harder than it currently seems able to do.

     

     

    You can change you input sensitivity on the xilica. It came preset at 0.00db. I was using rca preouts, so the voltage is low. At -10db on the Yamaha volume knob it was about half as loud as my khorns were at -30db. So I bumped the input voltage up some. Now I get loud reference levels at -25 or less. 

    • Like 1
  6. 4 hours ago, dtel said:

    Only way to know is to try it ?

     

    I don't know about Anthem at all but krell has good reviews. 

     

    I had to go look up the Anthem, looks very nice, I would think the sound should be fine.   Part of the reason I tried a better AVR, an older one but I like the sound.   It makes everything easier to connect and run with different inputs. The sound of the DAC was good but only accepted certain connections and digital only, but if the sound was better I would have stuck with it.

     

    Looks like the Anthem also has really good room correction, this might help later?  Never tried it before, probably should get the mic for this thing and see what it does. :o

     

     

    Lets hope reviews like this are true. Otherwise my preamp has theater bypass and I can hook the laptop/dac and turntable up to the preamp. Also the analog out on the 4K player. The Sony 1000 is well regarded in it musical ability. I just worry about running out of rack space. 

     

    Anthem is known to have about the best room correction available. And most would consider it the best pre/pro available in the reasonable price range (sub $3000). I’d have a hard time justifying the Thetas and other ~$30,000 units. 

     

    pLmbiFW.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. 6 minutes ago, dtel said:

    Are you listening with 2.0 or 2.1, either way will give you that effect.

     

    Congratulations 

     I was listening to the first setup through the avr in 2.1. Afterwards I listened on my preamp in 2.0. Didn’t bother changing the extra wires around. I will be tomorrow though. 

  8. First night thoughts. 

     

           These things sounded pretty good after I turned the input sensitivity up on the xilica. Using the Yamaha rxa1030 avr and streaming pandora and YouTube through the Sony udp1000 4K player.

     

    I mean they were pretty damn awesome but I didn’t feel they were that big a step over my khorns. Surely nothing like the reading I’ve done where people’s jaws were dropping. After contemplating what my audiophile friends would think of this good, but lackluster speaker that I’ve talked up so much, I decided to hookup my krell preamp, smsl dac, and tidal. 

     

    I’m speechless. The sound stage appeared, instruments were suddenly all over the room. The phantom center that people raved about began playing tricks on my mind. I had to make sure the tv wasn’t emitting beautiful sound. They bass like several 15” subwoofers. I had to check to make sure I didn’t have the 1802 turned on. This is the sound I’ve been searching for. No wonder people claim you can’t touch the sound these make for $30k or more. One hell of a first night.

    • Like 5
  9. More progress. I installed and wired my left fan/light combo. Now we have the capability to emit whatever color we want from the monoblock opening using a hue bulb in that socket. The fan was the quietest Home Depot had at .5 sone. I’m happy to say it is barely audible. It moves quite a bit of air so that enclosure will stay nice and cool. Wired the left side monoblock speaker wire wall plate to the wall plate behind the jube. Left bass bin wired to av rack on the right hand wall. Couple more days for my XLR wire to get here and I can finish the drywall. 

     

    OkmEw7V.jpg

  10. 51 minutes ago, rockhound said:

    Congrats on the new toys be prepared to piss your pants when you get it dialed in, that is an impressive setup.

     

    I cant think of a better way to spend the money at the moment. 

     

     

    Now I just need to seek out some Tad 4002’s. Seems like they are unobtanium the last couple years. 

    • Like 1
  11. 1 minute ago, Chris A said:

    I was using a surplus K-69-A 2" compression driver that has a bit of diaphragm chatter at 13.8 kHz, so I added the Beyma CP25 tweeter and crossed at 8 kHz to avoid that chatter.  It worked extremely well. 

     

    I went on to create the K-402-MEH design because I wanted a center channel that had a wider "apparent source width" (ASW) than the tri-amped JuBelle.  The JuBelle timbre matched the Jubs perfectly, but I could still hear a "sweet spot" in the listening position(s). 

     

    With the K-402-MEH, that sweet spot became the full width and length of the room--to within 2-3 feet of the front wall...

     

     

    Chris

    I read quite a bit of that thread recently. It was just a little over my head to cut up such an expensive horn with my little knowledge base. Interested in making another one? 

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