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AHall

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  1. I run a Radian 950 driver in my k510 center channel. It sounds very good. Premium driver that is fairly inexpensive. The 18x10 zxpc horn is said to perform similar to the k510. Also I have a friend that is running the zxpc with k691 for the HF on his LaScala center channel and is having great luck. Loves it. Yes. They come up every now and again. I just got the 2040 just to do my cornwall surrounds.
  2. I believe it is a cd horn like the k510 and k402. So there will be some peq needed to compensate some boost and drop in the freq. Also does not limit you on which driver you want to use. Additionally my second xilica(2040) was only $400 in like new condition. The massive amount of adjustability in an active crossover is a no brained when coming the price to a passive network.
  3. I’d like to see some more people use the zxpc 10x18 with an active xover.
  4. How low can we go without distortion? When we enter below that threshold how audible is the distortion? Is the low end extension worth the added distortion to provide that wow factor for movie ULF?
  5. This is still way over my head. Especially with my odd shaped room, half walls, and open floor concept. I am glad to have a more in depth discussion on this. I’m all ears on trying to improve the current performance and sound quality I already have. I’m sure there is a lot of optimizing in tuning and treatment left on the table. I just have to learn how to achieve it.
  6. Am I incorrect in my thinking? Trying to get an 1802 to play full spl below what it was designed to do? Why not roll it off at 22-25hz and let sealed subs cover that last 10hz? If there is a way to achieve what I’m looking to do with only the 1802 I’m all for it. I just didn’t want to create a bunch of distortion by boosting its bottom. Or damage the driver with ultra low freq effects. Edit for clarity - My suggestion was to use only the 1802 for music due to the seamless blending with the jubes. The sealed subs would not be playing here as I believe they would dirty up the SQ by not being low distortion horns. And for movie duty I would still be using the 1802 in full force, but using the xilica to do a 24db or 48db high pass filter. The second xlr output on my anthem pre/pro would be feeding sealed subs. All subs would work together until 25hz where the 1802 would roll off and the sealed subs would continue to output down to 15hz or lower.
  7. I’ve heard this. I always wondered specifically what “better” means when referring to the performance of a single vs dual driver configuration. Was it better distortion, output, low response, tight sound, general fidelity, etc? Maybe something else that separated them so much?
  8. I really have no desire to mess with Roy’s handy work. Especially since the 1802 has been designed and tested with dual sealed, single driver with vent, and passive radiators. The current vented design is the one that tested best and made it into production. The exception to this in my mind is the original purpose was to dig low with extreme output for huge rooms or open space, cinema and concert. It wasn’t designed to dig ultra low for a home theater. So I don’t mind “optimizing” it to be more ideal in the situation I’m using it for. If dual sealed will go lower and still have awesome output while maintaining full critical listening fidelity I’d be even more happy. I fear I could introduce unwanted distortion to the system by using different drivers or changing things too much.
  9. There has been talk of adding a second driver. Could be worth a shot and fun to experiment with. Going from a ported to sealed cabinet might present an issue if the factory driver is ideal to be used in a sealed application with the size of box. I don’t know enough about the matter. Maybe a sub driver guru could chime in. For example with the cab size I wonder if a couple ultimax 18’s would be more ideal in the sealed unit than buying a second k-473. Which appears to be an eminence driver.
  10. I think I have determined that the 1802 has the capability to go nice and low with dsp. I also think that by boosting the bottom some to gain that flat response and low extension you are limiting the overall output of the sub. Information under 20hz gets sent to the subwoofer and can cause it to bottom out at moderate listening levels. Levels where the 1802 is barely warming up at say 25hz. Even though the graph looks good on paper I think not using the suggested high pass filter will limit the total spl greatly. Currently I am enjoying the extra low end extension and it will go far above reference levels, but if you want the total advertised spl I think it is best to have it roll off. My plan is to use only the 1802 for music purposes and build several large displacement 18s or a couple 24s at the back of the room to assist in ultra low LFE for movies. I think large sealed subs would be better for this duty than asking the 1802 to do something it wasn’t designed for. Anyone care to add some input on this or correct my thinking?
  11. I just watched aquaman as well with jubes/1802. That was actually an experience to remember. Holy hell.
  12. Which sub design are you using the get that low extension?
  13. Current update. Redid some eq. This is the current response at the listening position. Added a bit of a house curve into the peq. Still using 2 ports closed. I haven’t noticed any negative results as of yet.
  14. I like the ct120s in my khorns better than the ct125 I have in my cornwalls. The a55g was a nice improvement as well.
  15. The only thing I can report on this is I prefer the performance of the jubilee to my friend’s dunlavy sc-IV and sound labs. Much prefer them over my khorns. My uncle has Martin Logan CLX Art and is a huge electrostat guy. He came over to demo my jubes and we spent a whole evening. He said he actually preferred my setup over his. This might be because he is more of an old school rocker and the jubes and large horn loaded sub present so much energy and impact without effort. I haven’t had a chance to listen to his setup so I really can’t claim this demo as first hand info.
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