It's appearent where you should bury that speaker wire?! You are obviously no electrical engineer. Read closely and learn -
Aside from that I see several issues with your theory -
- what's with those wimpy speaker cables? I wouldn't run a lamp with that crapp. Three-quarter inch garden hose dia. minimum.
- screws are Way too small. Three inch deck screws at the very least or half inch x 4 inch lag bolts for max current load.
- torx head is superior for obvious reasons. Far greater current grabbing/shedding capacity.
- a plastic holding box? Give me a break. Silver plated, .99999999 copper is preferred. This is higher-fi. Money is no object.
- go back to school, get your degree, then come see us later. You are light years behind current thinking.
- hi-fi Nazi says -- No Funding for You-Two Years.
Yes it has an Ortofon 2M Silver with it, not attached. If I remember correctly my AT440MLb might have better bass response, I will revisit the specs. Plus I like fine line needles better than elliptical.
I do know this elliptical Ortofon has been mentioned to have a long break in period of about 100 hours on the www. Might sell it unused I know I love the AT micro line sound and an upgrade would cost me less with them. The 2M Bronze that has micro line is $440, new AT740 mm is $330. Heck I could get an AT moving coil micro line for not much more than the 2M Bronze.
Another sub to consider is the Cinema F20 sub. It is similar to the big Tuba HT spec wise but a bit larger size and easier to build.
I have a pair in use with my Quarter Pie bass horns and the transition at 60 HZ between the two is seamless. Not a hint of being "flabby."
I also have a Tuba Table and agree if it sounded flabby something wasn't right, but with a speaker like the Jubes I would go with a bigger sub like the Tuba HT or F20 (or one of the big new Klipsch horn subs).