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ClaudeJ1 last won the day on January 3

ClaudeJ1 had the most liked content!

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About ClaudeJ1

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    Detroit Area
  • My System
    Living Room: 2.2/Atmos 7.2.4 (11 channels with LR Subs)=Front L&R, Danley SH-50 horns powered by Hypex NC400 MonoBlocs, SH-50 powered by 1/2 of Nobsound Mini TPA3116, Surrounds and Ceiling Bounce channels all powered by Nobsound Minis. Yamaha Pre/Pro CX-A5200. One OThorn and One Danley TH-50 Subs Sony700/Oppo 103 for CD 2.2, HDMI out for Atmos DVD/Blue Ray. YPAO for all listening.. Yamaha Pre/Pro CX-A5200. 1 Behringer A800 for subs.

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  1. If you are not friendly with lumber, sawdust, and glue, JASON from this forum is a certified builder of subwoofers from Bill Fitzmaurice, including the THT and THT LP
  2. My measurements, from many moons ago in Indy, suggests that you can only do it with ACTIVE PEQ along with the "wings." Trying to get to 400 Hz, passively with wings, is an exercise in futility, IMHO. But it has been a while, so I'm going by memory since my measurements are gone. The reason you can get away with a lower frequency boost, actively, is that each "tweeter" has 21 square inches of radiating surface.
  3. This "X" configuration is something I've had on my mind for years, and why I got an extra 4 used ones of these things, back when they were $400 EACH!! You guys have it made with this low price which is lower than what I paid for used ones.
  4. When I lived in Indianapolis (almost 2 years), I found a broken pair of AMT 1A's on Ebay that happened to be about a mile from my house. Got them a a steal deal price, and put new woofers, passives, and diaphragms in the tweeters. In my untreated basement, I was floored by the low bass and incredible detail and 3 dimensionality of those speakers, which I still have. This is about 7 years ago, in 2013. Crisp and clean, be the words I would use. You don't even need subs with those. I'm glad to see you guys are discovering this great driver and using them Wisely!!
  5. I can't recall the published works that proved that 80 Hz. was where a Subwoofer was "undetectable" by anyone as far as it's room position was concerned. But my own experiments with direct radiator and horn sub woofers, tapped or full, bear this out. I prefer 60 Hz. and below, but currently I'm using 40 Hz. and below. It all depends on the rest of you system and room.
  6. Owned them all, except the F20. Had twin DTS-10's, Serial #0001 of DTS-20, 3 TH-50's (down to 1 currently but will have 2 soon), had a THT, 2 THTLP's, and currently still have an OThorn which will go in the basement when I get the second TH-50 in play. I'm also building my Super Tapped horn with twin monster TC Sounds 12" drivers, which is a slim/refolded version of the Gjallarhorn (it will technically be like 2 DTS-10's in one box against the rear wall). "Musicality" does not come from Subwoofers, those are meant to ad FEEL to the bass. The bass you describe happens above 80 Hz.
  7. Well, now knowing about YOUR current woofer situation, specifically, in your original post, what else could I do? The tapped horns fare better for movies, unless you build or buy an OThorn. Otherwise, go for the F20, THT, or THTLP, which are more "musical" as you put it (not my favorite term).
  8. It's a bad habit on the part of 95% of the population. I was guilty myself for may years........no worries, mate!
  9. Nothing like asking a question about a JBL financed Direct Radiator Subwoofer on a Klipsch Brand forum to get an answer. Much like Ford F-150 owners want to go to a General Motors forum to ask about their Chevrolet Silverado. Is desperation part of this equation? IOW, no one on the JBL or Revel forums to ask? That being said, Tapped Horns, in general, will go lower in a smaller box than a full horn.........BUT, when firing into a corner, there will be very little gain in the low frequency extension, which happens with a full horn, like a THT, THTLP, F-20, etc. but it will give you higher SPL capability within that narrow band on a Tapped Horn. Tapped horns are also band limited to about 2 octaves, and my experience with all of them except the OThorn, is that they should cross from 40-60 Hz on down.
  10. You also have to consider that INFLATION has made that 1,500 US dollars worth a whole lot less since 1977. Today's dollars would be $6,587 as the new price, NOT 1,500 and calling "about that much."
  11. Totally true. He built the ones from the Dope from Hope and put them in his living room. I was there..........seen and heard for several hours of his own recordings, while doing a few shots of Glenfiddich Scotch with PWK. Great memory.
  12. That is one STOUT little driver, now isn't it? Tom Danley knows how to pick them. The wires and wood screws are inconsequential to making low bass.
  13. You can use 20 awg inside, it really doesn't matter.
  14. Wire is rated a "milliohms per foot." So it depends on how far from the amplifier your subs are located. If they are close by, you can use 14 awg, if they are farther away, you can use 12 AWG, but it doesn't really matter that much. Copper is copper, and as a former Printed Circuit Board designer, I've been a "copper slinger" all my adult life. I'm just not a fan of copper that is overpriced, like most "audiophile" cables out there, which are total Bovine Sediment and a ripoff. Spend money on modern 4K movies with Dolby Atmos, not wiring.
  15. In 2007, I got 4 MWMs bins with 2 gauss woofers and 2 K43's. I put the K43's in my LaScalas and discovered the much greater MIDRANGE definition from that woofer. Vocals, saxophone, guitar became exquisitely detailed. If you are using those, I would just keep using them. I came up with the Kappa 15C as a brand new, best bang for the buck alternative, which has a teeny bit better midrange definition than the K43, but not as much power handling. K43's are a great driver for a LaScala, for those who use SUBWOOFERS with them.
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