ODS123
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Posts posted by ODS123
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Ugh... Hum issues are the worst. Sorry to hear.
I had hum issues and resolved them by plugging my TT, phono pre-amp, and Integrated amp into the same 4-outlet receptacle. Voila. Gone. It's certainly worth giving that a try.
As an aside, although my Integrated has a phono-pre, I use an outboard phono pre-amp because my TT is too far away for 6' interconnects to reach the Int. amp. By placing the phono pre-amp b/w the TT and Int. Amp, I have about 12' feet of total cable distance.
Once you get it resolved, you'll love the 1210GR. I have a GAE and it's a joy.
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19 minutes ago, costerdock said:
Absolutely beautiful - really nice - love the blue meters.
Thanks, and I like your rig and the guitars beneath JH. ..Only wish I could play
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Like the pic!! Reminds me of mine..
A music legend suspended above a legendary speaker
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11 hours ago, babadono said:
Curious what is the damping on those meters? I had a Mac 2105 back in the day, it got stolen long ago (bastards). The meters were S-L-O-W.
A google search found the following claim from McIntosh.
"..There are two circuits that give these meters the indicating capability of the short interval power in a sound wave. The first circuit is an accelerating circuit that compensates for the inertia characteristics of the meter movement. Because the short interval power fluctuation is so rapid, the eye might not perceive the instantaneous power reading so a time stretching circuit is employed to delay the meter needle at peak reading for a few milliseconds."
Whether their description is completely accurate or embellished marketing hype, I have no idea.But can tell you with certainty that when the meters show 5 watts the volume is insanely loud. You’d have to be beyond stupid to listen at that level for more than 10 seconds.
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While I applaud the effort required in putting this together I didn’t do this test. But I can tell you that the wattage meters on my McIntosh MA6600 integrated rarely go past 5 watts and have never gone past 20 watts. At such volumes the music is dangerously and recklessly loud. My CW3s are 12’ away from my listening chair.
As an aside, take heed of Dave Grohls cautionary tale. The legendary Nirvana drummer and Foo Fighters frontman has recently revealed that his hearing loss - from loud music - has, for many years, been so bad that he must lip read whenever there is more than one voice speaking in a room. So keep that in mind when contemplating amplifier wattage requirements
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6 hours ago, Shakeydeal said:
So you should really just flip a coin?
More accurately, I am saying take audible differences out of the equation because there likely aren’t any.
Personally, I would stick with an integrated amplifier. In much the same way people romanticize tubes people also romanticize the idea of separates. While separates may allow you to independently upgrade the preamp or the power amp, they also potentiate issues like hum and hiss that arise from having extra interconnect cables and power cords.
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8 hours ago, captainbeefheart said:
It sounds like a nice clean amp. I have heard other tube amps as clean using a different topology, but still cleaner than many. Overall it's a good design, it's not dependent on tubes to sound good, you can literally pop in cheap power tubes vs the best ever and there is no audible difference and they last a very long time to boot.
McIntosh engineers ALL their amps to behave linearly when driving nearly any speaker load. Hence, their tube amps sound pretty much like their S/S amps.
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18 hours ago, Metallo said:
I read everywhere that C22+MC275 is excellent, but I am not a fun of the C22 retro look
Then get the C70, which appears to be the very same preamp as the C 22 but with the more modern Mac cosmetics. My gripe re: the C2700 is that it utilizes a not-so-robust-feeling push and scroll knob to wend through digital menus. It is much more satisfying, IMHO, to use a face plate mounted tone control knob and mono switch than to find those features via a menu. McIntosh's newest gear utilizes fewer and fewer knobs, and more menus which is disappointing because those knurled knobs are a big part their iconic look and why so many people love their gear.
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Also... Get tubes if you prefer their look, the retro aspect, etc... But I think you'll find that if you did a blinded comparison of McIntosh's current Tube gear w/ their current S/S gear, you will find they sound pretty much the same. Indeed, a poster on another forum who worked at McIntosh said that it was a not so carefully guarded secret that NO ONE in the company - inc. engineers, service techs, designers, etc. - could tell any of their amps apart when blinded. Nowadays, amps that measure alike sound alike - regardless of whether they are tube or not. And ALL of McIntosh's amp have exemplary measured performance. All of their gear have F/R, THD, S/N, Crosstalk, etc.. that vastly exceed the sensitivity of our hearing. Still, they continue to make tube gear b/c there will always be those who romanticize tubes. That said, get whichever and you'll be very happy. IMHO, the C-22 tubed preamp is one of the best looking pieces of audio gear ever made. I would LOVE to have one
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Personally, I see no need to insist on demoing the McIntosh w/ your speakers. The CW IVs are breeze to drive so there's no reason to think they could be a poor match. Buy whichever Macs best suit your aesthetic and features requirements and you'll be golden.
I have a McIntosh MA6600 driving my CWs. Sounds great
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8 minutes ago, captainbeefheart said:
I only said the sales literature was a puff of smoke because that's what it is.
All sales literature in audio could be described as such - open a copy of audiophile and that is mostly what you will seeAnd the idea that any manufacturer is breaking new ground with tube technology seems kind of ridiculous to me. I don’t think Luxman is any worse than any of the others in making such claims.
As I see it, this is a beautiful amp, beautifully made and lovely to look at. I personally don’t understand the appeal of tube amps. But this one seems quite nice.
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1 hour ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
I never tried Bryston with Klipsch but had 7B ST amps in the past with B&Ws and they were great amps.
The only problem w/ Bryston 7's and Klipsch is that they amount to gross overkill power-wise
When powered w/ very efficient speakers that could mean lots of noise and hum. But Bryston's stuff is superbly engineered so I'm sure they'll be very quiet. On the other hand, you could elect to sell them and buy something w/ 100w or so, and pocket the difference (which is apt to be lots $$$). ..You won't need more than 20w to drive those LaScallas My McIntosh wattage amps RARELY crest 5 watts.
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On 2/9/2022 at 5:58 PM, Mindu21 said:
Hey I realize that I probably will take a lot of heat for this question but this is my situation, I have the Bryston front end as mentioned in the Title and am extremely interested in the La Scala's and realize the high sensitivity but I don't want to change out my gear right away I would like to give things a chance I know the combo should probably Tubes but I'm just wondering if any one is using Solid State of this type to power the Klipsch?
Also I am trying to find a unicorn I believe as my listening room is 18ft W x 33ft L x 12ft H vaulted ceilings (Its a great room basically Kitchen, TV/ Audio Room) I am just concerned that the La Scala's will not produce enough bass for the room as my ATC SCM50PSL Classic's did I found they disappeared unless played at high listening levels.
Another thing I was wondering was how are the La Scala's at playing at low levels like late nigh or when you want to have conversation but still get some clairety out of the music but still be able to talk. My First Post here so go easy on me!
Thanks Paul
If the La Scalas don't produce enough bass for you it's likely because they are, well......La Scalas.
They're great speakers but a bit rolled off while still in the musical frequency range.
Your room is not that different from mine and my CW III's sound terrific. I suggest keeping your speakers in your great room! ..It's better to have that awesome system located where its heard and shared by all in the house then to have it tucked away in some dedicated hifi room where you go into social isolation every time you enjoy your music. .I'll live with less than ideal hifi before I'd turn my music enjoyment into a solitary experience. ..But that's me.
As for your Bryston gear. ..Keep it! It's beautifully made, will last a lifetime and has F/R, THD, channel separation, S/N ratio, etc.. that vastly exceeds the threshold of our hearing. Plus, a 20yr warranty. I had a 3BSST/BP25 power/pre combo for years and loved it. I only parted w/it because I wanted tone controls and a mono-switch. ..Pay no attention to claims that Bryston is "bright" sounding and therefore should be paired w/ warmish speakers. These notions are not rooted in science. I'm strongly suspect Paul W Klipsch would have said so himself.
Bottomline: I'd recommend some room-treatments, a room-correction processor, and/or speakers w/ lower bass response.
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On 2/4/2022 at 6:49 PM, Paducah Home Theater said:
Right, because I just make up random crap just to sell stuff.
Look, I'm stuck with some Forte 3's at this point. I'd love to move them. I have also been lobbying for Klipsch to be able to provide an upgrade kit because I believe that Forte 3 owners should be able to get the better sound without having to buy Forte 4's. Literally, Klipsch, please make upgrade kits so I don't have to sell 4's to 3 owners.
So there's that.
I don't think you necessarily "make up random crap just to sell stuff." You seem like a reasonable and likable dude.. ..But I do think you are subject to biases which predispose you to hear differences whether or not they truly exist. ..And if those difference do exist, to exaggerate them.
This is not meant to impugn your character - biases are a fact of life in audio. ..Yet audiophiles generally do pretty much nothing to eliminate or even minimize them when comparing X to Y.
BTW, you're talking about Fortes, and I'm talking about Cornwalls. But the point remains as the same was said about the CW3 vs W4's. ..That the CW4's (paraphrasing) are leaps and bounds better - unmistakably so. ..Yet to my ears, which measure very well and have been honed by a lifelong obsession with music, the differences are rather subtle and not necessarily better (ie. closer to real music) in the case of the CW4.
Again, I'm just urging people to not be overly swayed by the gushing endorsements the next generation of a speaker gets. ..Such raving is predictable and generally exaggerated for a whole host of reasons.
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Ugh.. Is it too late to return them? Were you told by the seller they were functioning properly? I know some here wouldn't mind the challenge of sorting out a problem like this - and perhaps you're among them - but it would drive me nuts.
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2 hours ago, Defacto said:
I have checked and rechecked for wire issues.
I reconnected the Klipsch R26F,am listening to them at 80
and all is fine.
The ex-owner did replace tweeters and caps himself.
Perhaps he never plaid them loud and this could cause the issue?
My hunch is that while replacing the caps he either replaced them with something not suitable OR wasn't sufficiently careful and caused a short.
Fortes present an easy load to amplifiers As such I would definitely suspect the modified FII's as the cause before I'd suspect the unmodified Onkyo. ..If it were me, I'd go back to stock tweeters and cross-overs.. I don't mean to sound negative - I do empathize.
If there's a lesson to be learned, perhaps it's that people should trust Kiipsch engineers and quit modifying their speakers.
If it's not too late, I'd probably return the speakers to the seller. ..It's highly improbable that the problem lies with your receiver.
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Make sure you don't have a strand or two of speaker wire crossing speaker jacks.. Has the speaker ever been modified? If so, maybe possible one of the crossovers has a small short.
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There's nothing wrong with your amp, IMHO, it's as capable of producing a well focused stereo image as any other modern-day amp..
I suggest repositioning the speakers and perhaps your listening chair/ sofa. ..And give thought to room treatments to manage reflections.
Imaging has a lot more to do with room setup than it does amplifier choice. ..Now if you're just looking to change out your amp b/c you want something different to look at, play with, etc.. ..There's nothing wrong with that at all. But don't expect that alone will improve sound.
If you do decide to change amps, I strongly recommend an integrated. These days, there's absolutely no reason to divide b/w two components that which can be combined into one. Today, integrated amps have S/N ratios, channel separations, and THD specs that are well below our hearing threshold. ..If you like the look of two components and you don't mind the jumble of additional cables, then fine. ..But it would be a mistake to think separates will sound better just because they are... well.... separates.
Something people don't often consider with separates is that by having separate grounding points for both pre and power amp, and by introducing a pair of interconnects you potentiate hum/hiss issues that might not be there with an integrated. This was true for me! Both my Bryston (BP25 pre/ 3bsst amp) and my B&K (can't recall models) pre/power amp combos were plagued by hum issues that could only be dealt with by fiddling with position of the the interconnects. My three integrateds were much quieter w/ less fuss.
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5 hours ago, Rolox said:
Heck, there are people who can't hear differences between amps or DACs...
Um, yeah... Like everyone, imho.
Many tried, none succeeded in claiming the $10k prize.
https://web.archive.org/web/20130716171611/http://tom-morrow-land.com/tests/ampchall
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4 hours ago, Dolph said:
Thanks to all for your insight. I've ordered the SL1210GR. I decided to go with black since I've been looking at the silver for over 40 yrs. I'm hoping to replicate Islander's experience, we'll see how it goes. It's hard to find them so I have it on backorder, hope it doesn't take too long. I'll let you folks know how it goes, thanks again for all your help.
Excellent! You'll be glad you did
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I just love how people imply Klipsch engineers were stone-eared and clueless UNTIL they engineered THEIR particular version of "X".
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17 hours ago, Thunderball said:
I am replacing the binding posts. While inside the cabinet, I noticed lots of undamped space. I am tempted to add some 1/2" foam on the rear panel. But then again, I figure the panel was left uncovered for a reason. Has anyone added damping to a Cornwall IV, and if so, how did it turn out? Where did you add damping? What kind of material?
Egads! Put your speakers back together as they were and leave them alone.
I'm pretty sure that if a bunch of wadding material would have made them sound better, the engineers at Klipsch would have added such. This picture looks exactly like the inside of CW3.
That said, a peek inside Klipsch Heritage speakers is a bit surprising. ..They are quite primitive when compared to the insides of other comparably priced (or even much cheaper) speakers. Goes to show it's all about outcome. ..If the speakers sound great, does it really matter if they seem rather crudely constructed?
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1 hour ago, Dolph said:
Hi. Thanks for all the input. My current TT, the Sl1800 is the Mk1 so no quartz drive....
Maybe this is a case of you won't know unless you try. Probably still having upgradeitis.
What is clear from your post is that you obviously cherish your vinyl collection and seem devoted to playing it for some time to come. ..Also, it would appear your Technics 1800 is quite long in the tooth. Lastly, it seems you have the means to buy the 1210GR if only you can justify the cost.
It it were me, I'd buy the 1210gr and be done with ever upgrading my turntable; it will truly be all the TT you will ever need. Your current table is old enough that it's likely you'll experience some issues in the not too distant future. And when you do, there's no guarantee you'll be able to find a tech and or parts for the repair. And at that point, the 1210GR may either be more expensive or out-of-production.
You've waited this long to upgrade, no one could accuse you of being frivolous w/ your $$
Just my $.02 (which may have an actual cash value of closer to $.01)
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If you're buying a modern day solid-state integrated amp, make your choice based on the features you want (eg., do you require tone controls, balance control, etc..), the power you require (easy w/ Klipsch b/c they are so efficient - 40w should be > than enough), and the look/ feel that you find appealing. Any Yamaha, NAD, Denon, Marantz, Onkyo, etc.. in the price range will sound pretty much alike.
sagging grille cloth, easily marred finish???
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
What has Klipsch said about this issue?? I've not seen this happen on ANY other speaker.
While it's good some have found a DIY fix, I'd be annoyed if I had to do this on any speaker that is less than 10-15yrs old.