Lbk
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Posts posted by Lbk
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The cutout hole for sub is 14.01 inches centered top to bottom. (9.25 inches from top/bottom) What is the center point measurement from the mouth panel. Thanks.
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On 2/20/2020 at 1:15 PM, Lbk said:
Ok. Thanks for all the help!
The sub cutout is 14 inches in diameter and centered top to bottom so center point is 9.25 inches out? ( top to bottom) How many inches out is the center point from the mouth panel? (side to side)
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1 hour ago, Randyh said:
you need a bigger horn , like the CF3
I've been running a zxpc 17 by 10 straight off chorus 11 xover and like it much better than stock(zxpc has a 2 inch opening) Was running ev dh1a on the zxpc and now running clarion 5.25, I like the clarion's better. The ev and clarion both sound good but on some material the clarion's are less harsh. For spl ev wins hands down but clarion's get plenty loud for me.
This is my first 2 inch horn and to me it makes a big difference over a stock 1 inch horn.
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3 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Be sure you get the 9 inch roller in the link above also.
Ok. Thanks for all the help!
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40 minutes ago, HPower said:
Hey Carl,
He says, he can't remember but I bet your guess would be close.
I would suggest buying 1 gallon, and a roller.
If you keep the bucket sealed up good, your left over Duratex should last, ready for your next project.
https://www.parts-express.com/acry-tech-9-textured-roller-for-duratex--260-113
To get a slightly smoother finish, I usually mix a very small amount of water into the Duratex.
Sub measures approx. 51square ft. According to PE one quart will cover 20 to 24 sq ft. So looks like a gallon to be safe.
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1 hour ago, HPower said:
Yep, Duratex.
Do you remember how much you used?
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9 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Not sure what you mean. Are you talking about putting a brace in front of the driver? If so it isn't necessary.
Yes in front of sub by extending the first brace. I will follow existing plans with above bracing, thanks!
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On 2/19/2020 at 3:03 PM, CECAA850 said:
Leave the driver where the plans say it's supposed to be and brace like the picture above. You'll be fine. There's no vibration anywhere on the cabinet even when you're airing it out.
I think that's good advice since this my first f 20 build. But would it help any if the brace next to sub was extended to run in front sub and connect to the mouth exit panel? Bad idea?
Hpower I like the black finish on your sub, is that duratex?
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12 hours ago, Dave A said:
Kirby and I were talking about MDF the other day. I took him outside to my flatbed trailer and showed him a piece of 3/4" baltic birch under the tongue jack where it has been for months in a very wet period and with freezing and thawing. There it sits stained but otherwise as good as new. No delamination no warping no rotting. You want strength in all ways and good acoustics BB is what I choose to use. Here in Nashville this is what the lumber yards tell me. MDF goes into car boom boxes and BB goes into speaker cabinets. They sell so much BB that even with the 9.75% tax a 60" x 60" x 25mm sheet costs $48.00 out the door. Music City has spoken and it's preference is BB.
Agreed but this time of year money is tight and time is not. Got a good deal on some 23/32 inch plywood and thought I would give one a shoot. If it does not work out I will build another in a month using BB. I'am anxious to hear a folded horn sub.
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Since I am not using the highest quality plywood I've decide to add 3 braces. 2 like in walnut f20 build and one on the side where sub is mounted. ( No holes in braces) Maybe overkill maybe not but once finished it would hard to add them.
Extra cost should be minimal and not concerned about extra weight. This thing isn't light to begin with.
Carl do you remember how far the mouth brace is from front edge, looks to be about 6 inches? Thanks.
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7 hours ago, Pete H said:
Personally, all of that bracing is a waste of time and materials. I've built 3 of them and have zero issues with the panels flexing, but that's me.
What material did use, MDF - BB?
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49 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:
Or you could go completely nuts with it. The original version had no braces and they never had an issue with panel vibration. I think it's best to put some in though.
Think I'll go for completely nuts, 23 by 32 inch plywood and not bb. Thanks for the help and pic carl !
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30 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:
I normally just lay a piece of stock over the horn walls and trace the shape of the brace with a pencil. No need to provide cut as things can shift ever so slightly as
Yea I can do that, so are there just the 2 braces like in the pic?
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I have the pieces cut for an f20 but can not open the braces file. Looking at walnut f20 build pics looks like 2 braces centered, one in mouth and one in tunnel behind the mouth. Are these the only 2? If so does some one have the dimensions for these braces, thanks!
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11 hours ago, jjptkd said:
The CF-4 horn is the same exact horn minus mumps as what is used in the new Cornwall iv.
As far as drivers go I really like the A55-G from Crites I'm sure there's better out there but I'm familiar with this one and it can be used in place of the stock Chorus II driver without any changes to the crossover.
My goal is to make this as easy as possible and have it look factory with the grill covers in place.
I have a diy chorus1.5 center (chorus 2 xover, diy cabinet with no radiator in rear. Upgraded to zxpc 11 by 17 horn, no room for tweeter. Drilled one inch hole in top of zxpc horn as far back as I could and mounted a de10 tweeter.
Have no way to measure it buts sounds good to my ears. Easily reversible with a little epoxy and the plug drilled from horn if you don't like the sound.
Looking at pics again if you do a little custom grinding on horn flanges looks like tweeter could be made to fit. Had to do some grinding on the zxpc to make it fit.
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2 hours ago, Pete H said:
I've built a few and you won't be disappointed with the performance at all, music or HT.
Thanks for all the replies, now I'am getting anxious to build one.
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4 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
The F-20 is by far the easiest build.
One the reasons I'am looking at it, that and the dimensions should fit my room well. It will be a couple weeks before I start so I'am going to do some more research before I commit myself. This would be my first horn sub and build.
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On 1/28/2020 at 1:10 PM, ClaudeJ1 said:
If you are not friendly with lumber, sawdust, and glue, JASON from this forum is a certified builder of subwoofers from Bill Fitzmaurice, including the THT and THT
I like wood working, I may not be the best at it but I try hard. Working a project now that I hope to finish by the weekend.
Didn't know that about Jason I will keep it in mind if I need his services.
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On 1/27/2020 at 9:33 AM, ClaudeJ1 said:
I can't recall the published works that proved that 80 Hz. was where a Subwoofer was "undetectable" by anyone as far as it's room position was concerned. But my own experiments with direct radiator and horn sub woofers, tapped or full, bear this out. I prefer 60 Hz. and below, but currently I'm using 40 Hz. and below. It all depends on the rest of you system and room.
Ran my sub without mains at 80hz musicality gone. I was a little surprised I thought it was coming sub and not mains. I will say the better the sub the better the overall sound. I read about the 80hz tuning now I've proved it to myself, lesson learned. The f 20's are looking real interesting, time to do some more research. Thanks claude!
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On 1/26/2020 at 9:25 PM, ClaudeJ1 said:
Owned them all, except the F20. Had twin DTS-10's, Serial #0001 of DTS-20, 3 TH-50's (down to 1 currently but will have 2 soon), had a THT, 2 THTLP's, and currently still have an OThorn which will go in the basement when I get the second TH-50 in play. I'm also building my Super Tapped horn with twin monster TC Sounds 12" drivers, which is a slim/refolded version of the Gjallarhorn (it will technically be like 2 DTS-10's in one box against the rear wall). Musicality does not come from Subwoofers, those are meant to ad FEEL to the bass. The bass you describe happens above
My concern was to not build a one note wonder which it seems the tapped horns are not.
So are you saying since th's are crossed at 60 hz and below (unlike my now main sub at 80) the musicality should come from the mains and not the sub? I definitely hear a tonality change in my present sub. Not trying to argue just still very new at this and trying to learn.
Got curious and checked the setting on my sub. I was wrong it was at a100hz. I am going have to do some experimenting.
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6 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
Well, now knowing about YOUR current woofer situation, specifically, in your original post, what else could I do?
The tapped horns fare better for movies, unless you build or buy an OThorn. Otherwise, go for the F20, THT, or THTLP, which are more "musical" as you put it (not my favorite term).
No problem claude I understand. My room is 11 by 17 so I could fit 2 of the dts 10's across the front with 6 inches on each side. Mains L/R/C would be in front of the subs or if the f20 is superior one coffee table in front sofa.
Just did some quick research and now have a direction, I am thing 1 or 2 f 20's might work. That OThorn is a beast, nice.
Thanks for the help, might have to start a new after some more research.
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On 1/25/2020 at 11:27 AM, ClaudeJ1 said:
Nothing like asking a question about a JBL financed Direct Radiator Subwoofer on a Klipsch Brand forum to get an answer. Much like Ford F-150 owners want to go to a General Motors forum to ask about their Chevrolet Silverado. Is desperation part of this equation? IOW, no one on the JBL or Revel forums to ask?
That being said, Tapped Horns, in general, will go lower in a smaller box than a full horn.........BUT, when firing into a corner, there will be very little gain in the low frequency extension, which happens with a full horn, like a THT, THTLP, F-20, etc. but it will give you higher SPL capability within that narrow band. Tapped horns are also band limited to about 2 octaves, and my experience with all of them except the OThorn, is that they should cross from 40-60 Hz on down.
Sorry was just looking for real world experience on how the 2 compare. My sub is giving me trouble and may need to be replaced. Seems most people use these for HT and not music.
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On 1/14/2020 at 12:43 AM, ClaudeJ1 said:
My Super Tapped Horn will beat both of them. Have not owned them all, but most of the major ones.
Are these tapped horns good for music? (Musical) Any idea how they would match up to a revel b15. Thanks
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Buy both and keep or sell the ones you don't like.
F20 sub hole cutout
in Subwoofers
Posted
Ok, thanks!