Herc

Thanks for the input guys. jnorv- the reason I selected the k400 is that even though I made the HF section taller then original(11") I would still like to keep the look "stock". I have only 2" of setback from the grill to the baffle. I sent an email to William to see what info he may have. Thanks again

Hey guys, Im finishing off my khorn clones but would like to make some wood K400 copies! Can someone take some measurements for me and possible a pic or 2 of the horn? Thanks

Heres a fix I tried. Use lead tape that is used to add weight to golf clubs. Relatively thin and easy to affix.

Hey justin, I looked into those plans your waiting for and they look like they have a lot of "filler" plans that you can get off of the internet. I purchased some plans for Khorns and they had a couple of errors in them. Are you aware of the Italian site that has the plans for La Scalas? They are in metric but easy to figure out.If not let me know and I will send them to you. My modified korns are close to being finished and I will post pics soon on here.

esker- the room they will be in is about 20W x 25H x25L I plan on listening to jazz and rock mostly in this room at "moderate" levels. Ok forget the EV 1829, I have won the bidding for some EV 1823M on ebay. So the components I will have are LF-JBL 2225h,MF- EV 1823M, HF- JBL 2416H/2371 horns. Hows that for starters?

As my wife made the actual MDF panels at a plant here I know very well what goes into each panel. -yes they are heavy about 88lbs for 4x8 3/4" sheet, but keep in mind that higher end(not custom) furniture makers use MDF it is much more stable in humid environments (dont use water based finishes)-to make regular particle board takes about 45lbs of pressure to bond the resins and wood fibres togetrher,MDF is around 150lbs. Most consumers dont realize there are 3 grades of regular particle board.You have to ask for it - if you are having problems with your substrate delaminating use a sanding sealer first before you apply the adhesive -contact glue works good for the novice but use solvent based glue not water, the water based contact glue tends to soak in more and thins out(it might also penetrate through the veneer!) -apply a couple of coats to boths surfaces to be bonded (let dry completely between coats) -if you have fastener problems use biscuts to join it all together There you have the start of a strong stable enclosure!

HDBRbuilder- Ive always thought(and used)that the iron/water method was more for depressions made by an impact to the wood and not scratches. Does work great for that though,with patience! Might take several tries.

HDBRbuilder- Ive always thought the iron/water method was more for depressions made by an impact to the wood and not scratches. Does work great for that though,with patience! Might take several tries.

JBryan- the lacquer finish is not as penetrating as oils.I dont regard lacquer as a great finish.I never use it. To get stains and discolouration marks out you can try wood bleach to minimize the stain, this will bring it to a level for more even staining.This is after you take the finish top coat off as best you can( sand paper, chemical strippers etc) THIS IS NOT LAUNDRY BLEACH, it can be obtained at most hardware stores. You can also try a deck renew product(used to bring colour back to cedar decks)this is a weaker product. ALWAYS DO A TEST AREA FIRST !!!

esker- Im not sure what horns I would use with the 1829 but I am capable of making my own wood horns and might go that way. Any suggestions on type of horn to look at with the 1829? If not that driver, any suggetions on one? I just happened to see the 1829 on ebay.thats why I mentioned that one. Thanks

I know the EV 1823M might be considered a midrange upgrade in K horns but has anyone used or heard EV 1829 in the k horns? They will be mated with JBL 2225H woofers wth 2416H drivers/2371 horns.Is this a good match in K horn clones? Thanks, Tony

To avoid getting uneven staining of raw birch use a pre stain conditioner, this will even out the stain you apply.Works for light coloured woods with porous grains. If your using Danish oil. You can avoid usng the steel wool pads by using the abrasive pads (3M-I think or simliar brand)instead. They look like those green dishwashing pads. They work great. Good luck Tony

Sorry if I stepped on some toes by my statement about improvements. Not my intention. I realize what the K horns are and what status they evoke. But like you said they started with an idea and it grew from there as most great ideas do.Along the way someone with a different way of looking at things injects their thoughts on a different angle. My specialty is cabintery and I take pride it what I am capable of doing.And I consider myself inventive and very curious. I am far from being an expert but I have some ideas that Id like to see if they work, thats all. And Im sure my ideas have been attempted by someone already. All of us are here to learn from this forum and Im greatful for it. Esker- by filling in the "voids" I am referring to the unused spaces of the horn -behind each horn fold- (dead air chambers )another example is the horizontal 2 sided "ramp" directly in front of the woofer. Hope that makes sense. Thanks again.

Mark, ok maybe improve was the wrong choice of words. More like "tweaking" using the knowledge of forum members.With the K horns being as old as they are and so many talented owners I'd like to incorporate ideas that they have come across into the clones.To bring the k horns more up to date with todays audio advancements. For example- has anyone filled in the voids within the horns with acoustical batten and what if any effect did it have? Would this deaden the sound? I used the term CD as I thought it meant compression driver. But, thats why Im here to learn more! Thanks

thats "throat" not "throut" ? where did that conme from???

Thanks Esker for the help. The 2416H are a threaded throut verson of the 2426H (same specs, same coil).Not sure about the horns one says on it JBL MI 291, with some checking I see that the MI 291 was a CD and horn combination offered by JBL.They measure 15" X 5 1/4". The reason I asked about CD versus cone was this: as sound is movement of air, how effective is a small CD diaphrahm combared to a larger cone transducer? Or is this why we use horns???? Just seems to me you dont get the same "punch" as a cone (especially lower frequencies. Excuse my ignorance as Im new to horns! But Ive heard enough to make me want to build some. About those $600 K horns, Im tempted ,but have spent enough to obtain the drivers and I am capable of building the horns and would like to make improvements. Guess Im a fool for punishment!! Thanks again.

DO you mean the shipping box was damaged or the speaker "box" Was the shipment insured? Hopefully it was and that is where I would start.

Ok so I will not be using the hepner drivers.This is what I have now, JBL 2225H woofers, JBL 2416H CD and horns. Any suggestions on a midrange? I see there are some JBL 2123H on ebay.I would like to add mids to the k horns to "fill" slight dead spot in front of the horns. Do members have preferrence over horns or cones? PS-there is a set of K horns 4 sale in my area for $600 US !!!! But I am in northern BC Canada. I havent seen or talked to owner yet.

Hello forum members, I'm new here and have been in the background reading the info on here. Its great help! I have come across some older midrange horns (in great shape)supposedly made by Hepner before he past on and Klipsch bought them out(?)They are 4" X 10.5". I am in the process of making K horn clones and am wondering if the mid drivers are worth using in them? the system of course will have a seperate tweeter horn. Thanks. Tony