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About SnorkelfaceSS

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  1. Awesome, thank you. That's what's I'm using as well. 😁
  2. Hey all, finally finishing these up. Back to part of my original questions list, is anyone adding a gasket to the woofers mounting surface. I was noticed a slight vibration there on one of the woofers, and the underside gasket on the woofer from the factory is paper-thin.
  3. Thanks for the replies Moray. I saw in another thread you saying the best ratio for the wood pieces being 1:2.5 mounted on the small edge when placed on the front baffle to add structure. For the front-to-back braces, does it make a difference what which way I mount them (assuming they fit between the drivers both ways)? Also, what wood are y'all using?
  4. A couple questions for everyone: First, if there is not enough volume in the cabinet, why don't people just remove a layer or two of the internal foam that comes from the factory? Second, going through other threads on bracing, most people add a front-to-back between the woofers and between the woofer and mid. My cross support between the woofer and the mid looks to be lower than the others I've seen. Has anyone else seen the cross support being at different heights on these speakers? I don't think a front-to-back brace will clear the woofer unless I add a thick wood spacer on the front baffle. *How do I make the picture show in the post rather than be an attachment? 🤔 20201016_204743_copy_1512x2016.heic
  5. Well, I could always add those later. After I finish these up it's on to the dual 21" subs 😁 If the cabinets are truly too small, wouldn't adding some polyfill help out??
  6. Great info. Yes, I've already been enjoying the sound from the Crites crossovers and the titanium tweeters on my 30's and the C7. Still thinking about the mids. Woofers might have to wait since I'd need 12 of them 😳🤑. Since the cabs seem to be solid, I'll just do the bracing without pulling the baffles off to reglue them. Although maybe I'll put a bead along the edges while I'm in there. 🤔 Any particular considerations for the bracing? I saw Moray James talk about making them 1:2.5 ratio and mounting them on the edge (1") side.
  7. Oh, I see. I guess the thought is that the plastic could resonate. Maybe I'll put that on the "might as well experiment list." Haha Thanks for digging that up for me. 👍
  8. Actually...no. It's somewhat small but for Atmos it's best to have them all match and be at ear level...and the 30's were perfect. But hey, I know I have plenty of headroom if I do get a massive room in the future. 😅 Great info, thank you. How would I be applying the tape? Is it between the plastic horn and the driver to just kind of seal it up? Yes, I'll definitely be adding front to back bracing as there is none from the factory. I'll think about the triangle corners too. Thanks everyone! Any other suggestions I welcome!
  9. I have one pair of KLF-30's that have already been rebuilt with reglued and reinforced baffles, Crites crossovers and titanium tweeters. I have 4 more more KLF-30'S for my side and rear surrounds and am about to start matching upgrades on them. My big question is that, if the baffles are still nice and solid, should I still remove and reglue them? I'm still going to add 1"x2.5" bracing either way. Also, I read in one post something about wrapping the "squawker" in self-adhesive tape. I'm not sure whether that refers to the mid or the tweeter, but has anyone else done this? Also, I was considering adding a thin gasket to the drivers to seal them up. Any reason not to? Thanks for any help!
  10. It figures the ones that are closer to my geographically are asking for a premium.
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